• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.103-122
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• 2007

Fashion have been expressed by a face through various a period, social change, and various culture changing. Human expresses as "Transformation" by applying these needs of changing to the fashion. A origin tribe expressed its own self by using direct body transformation and extreme decorations in the past. However, human express creative and esthetic desire based on shape, material, and transformation method in the present time characteristics of the body. Exceptional transformation breaking a existing fixed idea appeared frequently due to dissolution through transformation which is positive expression method in the fashion from 20th century. As a results, followings are obtained in this study. First, human body transforms by using a tool or intermediation in investigation of aesthetic meaning for human body. The object, Transformation, is stably transformed by disintegration, distortion, exaggeration and simplification reduction, as design's sensitivity. Second, transformation from relation of clothing composition is expressed by extension, reduction, simplification, and dissolution. In transformation from original tribe's sensitivity, past decorative desire lead to transformation of human body. To give variable change from past to present fashion, external formative will is introduced. Then, extreme expression is made by direct transformation of clothing type. It seems to be accomplished that human body's expression method is continuously changed into extension, exaggeration, reduction, and dissolution from transformation method as described before. Transformation of modem fashion is expression method by creative supervision. Extreme transformation substituted body's each part is based on immanent play and representative satisfaction. Through these transformation, it is judged that variety of creative type is achieved.

• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.116-128
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate Seon expressed in the costume of Chinese Song. For the purpose, this researcher classified types of Seon, found in the Chinese costume, in terms of composition method, decorative technique and used materials. In addition, the researcher attempted to analyze formative characteristics of Sean in accordance with the range and post of use, pattern and color combination. Seon expressed in the costume of Chinese Song can be classified into standard, decoration, application and Buseon in type. When the typical distribution of Seon expressed in the costume of Chinese Song, standard type was highest in percentage, especially different color type. Looking at the range of use, Seon was mainly used for outfits, especially Jikcheol(直?) and Hakchangeui for men and Baeja(背子) for women. Looking at the post of use, Seon was mainly used to edges of costume and sometimes also to seams. In regard to materials of Seon, they were selectively used depending on the existence or non-existence, size and brilliance or non-brilliance of pattern employed in the texture of Seon. The most commonly used pattern of Seon was single-type pattern, especially the pattern of plant. Pattern arrangement was most often filling in type. Concerning the color combination of Seon, men's dress most often used black-white combination, followed by different color combination while, women's dress most often employed complementary color combination, followed by different color combination.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권1호
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• pp.131-138
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• 2006

The yanggwan is a striped headpiece for civil and military officials worn with jebok, a costume for the royal ancestral worship ceremony, or jobok, a ceremonial costume for the courtier. It was called a jegwan when it was worn with a jebok. The geumgwan and jegwan are of the same style but the geumgwan has a gilded band and backside and the jegwan is mostly lacquered. The yanggwan was worn first with the jebok by the officials, both of which were received from the Chinese Ming dynasty in the 19th year of the King Gongmin's reign during the Goryeo period. The royal crown and court clothing system was two grades lower than the standard clothing code of the Ming dynasty of China. In the Joseon dynasty, the oyanggwan worn by the highest grade officials had five-stripes but was later replaced during the Daehan Empire by the seven-striped chilyanggwan used by Ming dynasty officials. Oyanggwans make up the majority of the surviving examples of these headpieces, with the exception of the six-striped yukyanggwan of Chung In-hak (1839-1919), the Minister of Justice, which originated in the Daehan Empire and whose owner is definitively known. The gilt portion of this yukyanggwan is finely engraved in relief with a bird, flower and tendril motif. The yukyanggwan is topped by a decorative bird ornament, called a jeongkkot. EDSS spectrum analysis of the gold plating reveals a composition of 51.32% gold and 10.34% silver. The yanggwan is composed of bamboo, mulberry paper and silk crepe. The black portions are lacquered. The individual yang is made with twisted mulberry paper.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권8호
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• pp.1255-1263
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• 2008

Study on Hwal-ot, woman's wedding robe of the Joseon Dynasty, has been limited to the Princess Bock-on's Hwal-ot and some folk remains. In this study, I tried to identify formative characteristics of Hwal-ot by studying embroidery design patterns in the royal Hwal-ot. On Mar 26, 2007, I inspected total of 15 pieces of embroidery design patterns for Hwal-ot held at the National Palace Museum of Korea. I classified them into three types of Hwal-ot by considering characteristics in embroidery design patterns as well as composition of embroidery design patterns held by the private. For the Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type I, there is a calligraphy called "Embroidery Design Pattern of Red Long Robe for leo-dong Palace", which is presumed to be the embroidery design pattern of Princess Deok-on, the third daughter of King Sunjo and a little sister to Princess Bock-on. Its patterns are very similar to that of Princess Bock-on's, with similar flower patterns and treasure patterns, as well as overall stripy structure. The Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type II maintains the same flower patterns and butterfly patterns as in the type I, but does not have the striped decorative. The Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type III has illustrative design with waves and mountain at the background and a pair of water birds flying around lotus. In particular, the type III design has a nine phoenix pattern at the front part of the robe, illustrating nine baby phoenixes (four in the left, five in the right) under a mother phoenix, which is closer to characteristics found in the Hwal-ot embroidery design patterns at the end of the Joseon dynasty.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권9호
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• pp.1430-1440
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• 2009

This study is on the abstract expressionist techniques among the art activities variously expressed in modern fashion. Its significance lies in making fashion artistic through the combination of fashion and art in contributing to the development of creative fashion culture. In terms of method, documents are used to characterize the concept of abstract expressionism, the works of representative artists, and the panting techniques in relation to modem art based on existing literature. Fashion-related anthology, domestic, and foreign fashion magazines were used to analyze the abstract expressionism applied to modern fashion since 2000. According to the findings, the abstract expressionism applied to modern fashion showed artistic expressions with the abstract beauty by chance, using only the images or techniques similar to those in abstract expressionism. Expressionist works had abstract and dynamic images, as they were given a third dimension through the process of being worn on the human body. Second, details or decorative factors were excluded to ensure the maximum space for expression, modem images were displayed using the simple forms such as silhouettes (spacious or dense) and the beauty of harmony was shown that had beauty emphasized by the expression effects of textile design, the division of space, and the composition of colors. Third, the action painting techniques in modern fashion were used for textile designs printed on the surface of clothes, and the dynamic character of the design was shown by the duplication and juxtaposition of stains created by chance. The color field abstract techniques were shown through printing, texture, and dying, in addition the intense and pure abstract images were displayed by treating clothes like large screens.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.113-122
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• 2023

본 연구는 문화 & 소프트 파워(soft power)가 주도하는 지식정보사회에 있어서 전통문화의 유물자산을 활용한 문화상품 개발을 전제로 진행하였다. 통일신라시대 전통건축에서 출토된 와당 유물의 문화콘텐츠 상품 가능성을 탐색하고 주얼리 디자인에 활용성이 높은 상품화 모티브의 확장성을 넓히는 맥락에서 진행되었다. 먼저 문헌과 매체 연구를 통하여 와당의 원형과 소재, 용도, 크기, 의미, 조형적 심미성을 파악하였다. 고찰된 와당중에서 카테고리별 대표성과 모듈·패턴화 가치가 있는 10종류의 와당을 선택하여 '형태적 단순화 기법'으로 원형이미지를 추출·모듈화하였다. 문양구성 배열형식 체계화 방법인 '수학적 대칭성 분석기법'에 근거하여 문화콘텐츠산업 및 주얼리디자인 개발시에 활용할 수 있는 평면적 조형요소를 도출하였다. 향후 주얼리산업에서의 활용성 확대를 위하여 2D 디지털이미지로 제시하였다. 향후에도 전통문화를 매개로 하는 다양한 문화콘텐츠산업에 관한 연구가 더한층 활성화되기를 기대한다.

• 한국결정성장학회지
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.234-243
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• 2023

유약원료 내의 ZnO와 SiO₂의 조성과 소성요건에 따라 생성되어 표면으로 석출된 아연결정은 매우 장식성이 높아 선호된다. 하지만 아연결정유약은 대부분 소성온도가 높고 소성온도 폭이 좁아 상용유약으로 사용하기 어렵다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 아연결정유약 제조 시 사용하는 주원료인 frit를 혼용하여 공융효과를 이용하면 일반적인 아연결정유약의 소성온도를 1270℃보다 아연결정의 유약 생성온도를 낮출 수 있을 것으로 기대하였다. 그 결과 Frit 혼용 유약에서는 아연결정의 생성온도가 낮아질 뿐 아니라 1230~1270℃로 소성온도 폭이 넓어져 안정적으로 결정이 생성되는 유약을 개발할 수 있었다. 소성 최고온도를 1230~1250℃로 낮추고 냉각 시 유지온도를 약 950℃까지 낮출 수 있었으며, 경제적으로 효과적인 유약을 개발할 수 있었다. Frit 혼용으로, 유약의 조성에 따라 냉각 시 유지온도는 아연결정의 재결정화에 영향을 주는 것으로 나타났으며 이때 결정형을 조절할 수 있다. 또한, 조핵제의 활용으로 결정 생성 량과 형태의 제어가 가능하다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제46권3호
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• pp.230-250
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• 2013

동아대학교박물관에 소장된 <초충도수병(草蟲圖繡屛)>(이하 <수병>)은 보물 제595호로 지정되어 있으며 초충도 회화작품보다 더 정교하고 섬세한 사실적 표현과 다채한 입체적 구성으로 미술사 분야에서 그 가치가 높이 평가되어 왔다. 그러나 <수병>이 자수 작품임에도 불구하고 현재까지 섬유공예적 측면에서의 분석과 연구는 이루어지지 않았다. 본고에서는 <수병>의 바탕직물, 자수색사, 자수기법 등을 과학적 기기를 사용하여 조사 분석함으로써 <수병>의 문양소재와 섬유공예적 특징 및 <수병>이 섬유공예사에서 갖는 가치를 규명하였다. 연구 결과, <수병>은 8폭 병풍으로 이루어져 있으며 소재와 구도는 일반적인 초충도 회화작품과 유사하다. 각 폭의 주제문양은 제1폭에서부터 순서대로 오이, 맨드라미, 원추리, 여주, 패랭이, 수박, 가지, 들국화로 이루어져 있다. <수병>의 문양 중 여주는 현전하는 초충도 회화작품에서는 볼 수 없는 특별한 소재이다. 제8폭은 곤충, 파충류 등의 문양이 없이 들국화만 단독으로 시문하여 초충도의 전형적인 형식과 차별이 있다. <수병>의 직물은 지금까지 장식용 자수에서는 볼 수 없었던 검은색을 사용하여 다채한 색사를 강조하여 극대로 표현하고자 했음을 알 수 있다. 바탕직물은 5매 공단[무문단(無紋緞)]을 사용하였다. 자수사는 극히 미약하게 꼬임을 준 반푼사를 사용하였으며 꼬임의 방향은 우연이다. 한 가지 색의 단사를 사용하기도 하고 때로는 두 가지 색을 병사로 사용하거나 합연사한 혼합색을 사용하여 입체적으로 표현하였다. 색상은 열화되고 퇴색이 심하여 원래의 색은 알 수 없지만 가장 많이 사용된 색은 황색계열에서 녹색계열의 색이며 청색, 갈색, 자색 등이 비교적 잘 남아있다. 원추리, 패랭이, 딸기 등의 색은 현재 적황색으로 남아 있는데 초충도와 비교해 볼 때 원래는 주황색 또는 홍색이었을 것으로 추정된다. 자수의 기법은 대부분 표면평수를 사용하여 면을 채우고 있다. 이를 통해 색사의 낭비를 줄이고자 했던 옛 여인들의 알뜰한 지혜가 엿보인다. 평수는 면을 장식하는 비교적 간단한 자수법이지만 색사를 다양화하고 면을 분할하여, 수직, 수평, 사선평수를 배합하고 때로는 자릿수와 같이 서로 맞물리게 자수하여 다양한 질감과 양감을 표현하였다. 곤충의 몸통은 가장자리수와 이음수, 평수를 혼합하여 입체적으로 표현하고 있으며, 특히 가장자리수의 활용이 주목된다. 그 외 이음수로 잎맥 등을 입체감 있게 나타내고, 제7폭의 쇠뜨기는 표면솔잎수를 층층이 자수하여 사실적으로 표현하였다. 패랭이, 딸기, 오이 등에는 평수 위에 장식수를 더하여 세세한 묘사를 더했다. <수병>은 회화사, 문화사적으로도 가치가 크지만 한국 자수공예사에 있어서도 우수한 한국적 자수기법과 색채를 사용하여 신사임당 초충도의 모습을 가장 잘 표현하고 있는 점에서 큰 중요성을 지닌다고 할 수 있다.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제17권
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• pp.69-84
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• 2016

유소는 족자를 걸기 위한 끈의 역할을 한다. 본 연구는 기존 어진과 공신도상의 유소 연구결과를 기반으로 사대부상의 유소에 초점을 맞추어 연구하였다. 조사대상은 국립중앙박물관 소장 초상화에 장착된 유소 7점으로 형태와 제작 재료에 관해 분석하였다. 그 결과 대부분 16사의 동다회로 6점은 홍색, 1점은 쪽색으로 제작되어 전형적인 사대부상 유소의 형태를 보이고 있었다. 분석 결과 윤급 초상(덕3503)은 종이에 금박을 입힌 것이며, 금 아래 적색 안료 입자는 Fe로, 산화철 계통의 안료인 석간주가 사용된 것으로 보인다. 신임 초상(덕수4846)은 속지의 주성분이 금으로 납, 수은, 은이 소량 확인되었고, 이성원 초상(본10122)은 주성분이 Ag로 은지인 것이 확인되었다. 이서구 초상(신1065)은 주성분이 Ag, Fe, Br이며 속지는 가죽으로 제작되었다. 가죽을 FTIR로 분석한 결과 지문 영역에서 양가죽의 스펙트럼과 거의 일치하고 있어, 양가죽을 가공한 피금(皮金)인 것으로 확인되었다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.176-187
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• 2007

Buddhist paintings in the late Joseon dynasty are characterized by diversification and subdivision of subject matters. Buddhist paintings rapidly declined since 19th century, being miniaturized and showing complicated composition. Figures that identified the shape of shoes in Buddhist paintings of late Joseon dynasty included sacheonwang that were placed in the left and right bottom of Buddhist paintings, sinjung, gwiwang and pan-gwan of siwangtaeng. Sacheonwang, an Indian folk god, was depicted as a noble person in "ahamgyeong", an early sutra, but was depicted as an armored warrior in Mahayana Buddhism world. The style of shoes sacheonwang in Korea were different depending on the times. The shoes of the sacheonwang sculpture in Seogguram of Shilla dynasty are sandal type. The sacheonwang that was drawn on Jijangbosaldo in Goryeo dynasty wears non-showy armor and red yi(履). The sacheonwang that was expressed on Buddhist paintings in Joseon dynasty wears showy armor and decorated hwa. Comparing the yi of Goryeo Jijangbosaldo sacheonwang with the yi of Bodhisattva on the Dunhuang yeolbanbyeonsangdo, Jijangbosaldo sacheonwang's shoes are Korean style in which the sole is flat and the front part has no decoration, but in the shoes of Bodhisattva on the Dunhuang yeolbanbyeonsangdo the sole is not flat, the front part is lifted. The style of shoes of pan-gwan, who is depicted on Siwangtaeng, is hwa. However, unlike the decorative hwa of sacheonwang, its front is not lifted and it has no decoration. It is assumed that the shoes of sacheonwang or pan-gwan represented obangsaek based on the idea of eumyang-ohaeng. Depiction of shoes shown in Buddhist paintings reflected the phases of the social life. In addition, the sandals of Shilla sacheonwang implies that sourthern culture in addition to Buddhism was introduced. Having expressed the shoes of Goryeo sacheonwang with conventional yi implies that Buddhism governed the inner world of the people, and the shape and material of the shoes reveals aristocracy. It is assumed that that an armored warrior wore yi, not hwa implies that the then society was stable. Also, it is assumed that that the shoes of sacheonwang on Buddhist paintings in Joseon dynasty were hwa implies that the role of tutelary god was stressed in the disordered society.