• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.1-11
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• 2002

The shape of floral Pattern in the Period of Baroque could be divided single. bunch and vine. The style of representation was stylized, abstract and realistic. the most of style was stylized. The type of composition was fullness, independent and scattered. Floral patterns were shaped simple and complex and components of design could be classified into flower and leaf. flower and fruit. flower and band. bunch of flower, flower and geometry. flower and pot, flower and animal. flower and crest. Kinds of flower were tulip. common marigold, lily, carnation, small bel]flower. lotus, acandus leaf, pomegranate, strawberry. pine cone and abstract anonymous flower which were unfolded by repeat. Characters of floral Pattern were classical elegance, taste of royalty and lively and damask, velvet, brocade which made with gold and silver so, those were a very brilliant and gorgeous. Characters of design were illustrated plane style and stylization where developed arranged on front by repeat or repeat symmetric of vertical. Art, costumes and textiles in this era were a very rich and colorful. The result of study on Baroque's floral pattern will be used to develope a various textile design and chance to be adopted classical pattern into aesthetic value in our time.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.21-34
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to examine the main characteristics of strategies and fashion styles in fast fashion. Ultimately, this study is aimed to give useful information to develop fast fashion companies in Korean apparel industry. There are several strategies commonly applied in most fast fashion companies. First, they produce a wide range of numerous items. Second, the price is very reasonable. The primary objective of fast fashion is to quickly produce products in a cost efficient manner. Third, fast fashion companies take charge in the whole process from designing and manufacturing to distribution and sales. Forth, while almost all apparel companies invest a large amount in advertisement to promote sales, most fast fashion companies invest in VMD instead. Also, the fashion style of fast fashion were examined. First, casual style dominated a big part in composition of the entire style. Second, they use various kinds of different fabrics. For example, natural fabrics including organic and recycled fabrics, denims, newly invented high-tech fabrics, and decorative fabrics are widely used. Third, fast fashion brands produce fashion product based on the most recent fashion trends. Forth, they pursue high quality design. Retailers' understanding of the target market's wants realizes the consumer to thrive on constant change and the frequent availability of new products. Accordingly, fast fashion is presently taking an important role in fashion although it has a short history compared to the general apparel industry.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.169-184
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to understand the characteristics of the common people and the furniture they used and to investigate the general characteristics of traditional Korean culture in the late Chosun Dynasty in order to study the Characteristics of Bandagein Gyeongnam province. Local characteristics of the Bandaji were examined through comparing local style of Folk Houses Interior space composition and the utilization Bandaji of that space through the case study and literature review. Bandagein Gyeongnam province are classified as Tongyeong, Jinju, Miryang, Namhae, Yangsan, Gimhae. The height of Bandaji is relatively lower than in other provinces, the metal ornaments are simple, and the wood pattern is used to show simple and natural beauty. As a characteristic of metal decoration, Bandaji of Miryang have a lot of openwork decoration, Bandaji in Jinju have a cicada hinge and a decorative iron hook, Bandaji in Namhae have a peak of a lotus flowers shaped hinge and Ying-yang/ number pattern on openwork facet and Bandajji in Yangsan have a Violin hinge and Bandajji in Gimhae have emphasized ornamental features by using a rivet and lock made of tin and the cast iron.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.1-15
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to mate a basic foundation for the discourse of Koreanness of contemporary Korean landscape architecture by way of searching the conceptual definitions of Koreanness through analysis of Koreanness discourses. The results are that discourses of Koreanness are to be classified in aesthetics type, spatial-temporal type, and cultural type. Aesthetics type is understood as style in terms of formal and design representation planning principles of spatial composition and immanence in terms of philosophy. Spatial-temporal type is understood as contemporaneity. This is classified as the concept of connoting of tradition, and separating and keeping a distance from tradition. Cultural type is prescribed as cultural identity. This is classified as unity, generality and individuality. The intension of Koreanness of these types is represented as an aspect changing and shifting from one regulation to another regulation. First, in the concerns of substantial archetypes like Korean original form, decorative element, spatial composition aesthetic perception and philosophy, Koreanness shifts to the point of view of contemporaniety which is created and defined in history. Second, Koreanness as contemporaniety shows a trend of shifting the point of view which is to be found through the reconsideration on modem history and modernism. Third, Koreanness defined as cultural identity shows a trend to emphasize the differences in other cultures and includes all the modem cultural agents. The number of views understood as individuality and denial are small but provide important points. Programmatic definition of Koreanness is not suitable. This basic study uses a stipulative or operational definition of Koreanness in many ways such as spatial and regional identity. Koreanness study for Korean contemporary landscape architecture requires a systematic understanding of modernity and colonization relating to identity. Also, it is needed to elaborate on the discourse to divide the meaning of a concept of identity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.12
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• pp.1883-1896
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• 2009

This paper explores the use of Korean wrapping cloths (bojagi) in the late Joseon period and the types of decorations applied to them. Korean wrapping cloths called bojagi are pieces of cloths used by households of all social classes for practical purposes such as wrapping presents and covering food. In addition to the basic purposes, the making of bojagi was also an activity to express the down-to-earth wishes and the satisfaction of creation by the designer. With regard to the decorative feature of Korean wrapping cloths, five types of, patchwork, embroidered, painted, printed, and oiled-paper wrapping cloths, were examined. The patchwork wrapping cloths (jogakbo) show the frugality of Joseon women in addition to the well-developed composition skill of lines and colors. The embroidered wrapping cloths were prepared for special rituals and ceremonies such as weddings. Painted wrapping cloths were decorated with a Chinese-colors technique (called dangchae) or sometimes with black ink painting. For printed wrapping cloths, various sizes of woodblock printings and roller printings were used. Although monotone black ink was the main color applied to the printing, there was also wrapping cloths made from chintz having brilliant fast colors. Oiled-paper wrapping cloths called sikjibo were in use only for covering food. Cut-out work was employed to decorate it.

• MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
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• v.96
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• pp.239-260
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• 2019

This paper examines the circulation and dissemination of painting during and after the nineteenth century through a case study on the One Hundred Fans paintings produced as decorative folding screens at the time. One Hundred Fans paintings refer to depictions of layers of fans in various shapes on which pictures of diverse themes are drawn. Fans and paintings on fans were depicted on paintings before the nineteenth century. However, it was in the nineteenth century that they began to be applied as subject matter for decorative paintings. Reflecting the trend of enjoying extravagant hobbies, fans and paintings on fans were mainly produced as folding screens. The folding screen of One Hundred Fans from the collection of the Museum am Rothenbaum Kulturen und Künste der Welt (hereafter Rothenbaum Museum) in Germany was first introduced to Korean in the exhibition The City in Art, Art in the City held at the National Museum of Korea in 2016. Each panel in this six-panel folding screen features more than five different fans painted with diverse topics. This folding screen is of particular significance since the National Museum of Korea holds the original drawings. In the nineteenth century, calligraphy and painting that had formerly been enjoyed by Joseon royal family members and the nobility in private spaces began to spread among common people and was distributed through markets. In accordance with the trend of adorning households, colorful decorative paintings were preferred, leading to the popularization of the production of One Hundred Fans folding screens with pictures in different shapes and themes. A majority of the Korean collection in the Rothenbaum Museum belonged to Heinrich Constantin Eduard Meyer(1841~1926), a German businessman who served as the Joseon consul general in Germany. From the late 1890s until 1905, Meyer traveled back and forth between Joseon and Germany and collected a wide range of Korean artifacts. After returning to Germany, he sequentially donated his collections, including One Hundred Fans, to the Rothenbaum Museum. Folding screens like One Hundred Fans with their fresh and decorative beauty may have attracted the attention of foreigners living in Joseon. The One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum is an intriguing work in that during its treatment, a piece of paper with the inscription of the place name "Donghyeon" was found pasted upside down on the back of the second panel. Donghyeon was situated in between Euljiro 1-ga and Euljiro 2-ga in present-day Seoul. During the Joseon Dynasty, a domestic handicraft industry boomed in the area based on licensed shops and government offices, including the Dohwaseo (Royal Bureau of Painting), Hyeminseo (Royal Bureau of Public Dispensary), and Jangagwon (Royal Bureau of Music). In fact, in the early 1900s, shops selling calligraphy and painting existed in Donghyeon. Thus, it is very likely that the shops where Meyer purchased his collection of calligraphy and painting were located in Donghyeon. The six-panel folding screen One Hundred Fans in the collection of the Rothenbaum Museum is thought to have acquired its present form during a process of restoring Korean artifacts works in the 1980s. The original drawings of One Hundred Fans currently housed in the National Museum of Korea was acquired by the National Folk Museum of Korea between 1945 and 1950. Among the seven drawings of the painting, six indicate the order of their panels in the margins, which relates that the painting was originally an eight-panel folding screen. Each drawing shows more than five different fans. The details of these fans, including small decorations and patterns on the ribs, are realistically depicted. The names of the colors to be applied, including 'red ocher', 'red', 'ink', and 'blue', are written on most of the fans, while some are left empty or 'oil' is indicated on them. Ten fans have sketches of flowers, plants, and insects or historical figures. A comparison between these drawings and the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum has revealed that their size and proportion are identical. This shows that the Rothenbaum Museum painting follows the directions set forth in the original drawings. The fans on the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum are painted with images on diverse themes, including landscapes, narrative figures, birds and flowers, birds and animals, plants and insects, and fish and crabs. In particular, flowers and butterflies and fish and crabs were popular themes favored by nineteenth century Joseon painters. It is noteworthy that the folding screen One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum includes several scenes recalling the typical painting style of Kim Hong-do, unlike other folding screens of One Hundred Fans or Various Paintings and Calligraphy. As a case in point, the theme of "Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden" is depicted in the Rothenbaum folding screen even though it is not commonly included in folding screens of One Hundred Fans or One Hundred Paintings due to spatial limitations. The scene of "Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden" in the Rothenbaum folding screen bears a resemblance to Kim Hong-do's folding screen of Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden at the National Museum of Korea in terms of its composition and style. Moreover, a few scenes on the Rothenbaum folding screen are similar to examples in the Painting Album of Byeongjin Year produced by Kim Hong-do in 1796. The painter who drew the fan paintings on the Rothenbaum folding screen is presumed to have been influenced by Kim Hong-do since the fan paintings of a landscape similar to Sainsam Rock, an Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden, and a Pair of Pheasants are all reminiscent of Kim's style. These paintings in the style of Kim Hong-do are reproduced on the fans left empty in the original drawings. The figure who produced both the original drawings and fan paintings appears to have been a professional painter influenced by Kim Hong-do. He might have appreciated Kim's Painting Album of Byeongjin Year or created duplicates of Painting Album of Byeongjin Year for circulation in the art market. We have so far identified about ten folding screens remaining with the One Hundred Fans. The composition of these folding screens are similar each other except for a slight difference in the number and proportion of the fans or reversed left and right sides of the fans. Such uniform composition can be also found in the paintings of scholar's accoutrements in the nineteenth century. This suggests that the increasing demand for calligraphy and painting in the nineteenth century led to the application of manuals for the mass production of decorative paintings. As the demand for colorful decorative folding screens with intricate designs increased from the nineteenth century, original drawings began to be used as models for producing various paintings. These were fully utilized when making large-scale folding screens with images such as Guo Ziyi's Enjoyment-of-Life Banquet, Banquet of the Queen Mother of the West, One Hundred Children, and the Sun, Cranes and Heavenly Peaches, all of which entailed complicated patterns. In fact, several designs repeatedly emerge in the extant folding screens, suggesting the use of original drawings as models. A tendency toward using original drawings as models for producing folding screens in large quantities in accordance with market demand is reflected in the production of the folding screens of One Hundred Fans filled with fans in different shapes and fan paintings on diverse themes. In the case of the folding screens of One Hundred Paintings, bordering frames are drawn first and then various paintings are executed inside the frames. In folding screens of One Hundred Fans, however, fans in diverse forms were drawn first. Accordingly, it must have been difficult to produce them in bulk. Existing examples are relatively fewer than other folding screens. As discussed above, the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum and its original drawings at the National Museum of Korea aptly demonstrate the late Joseon painting trend of embracing and employing new painting styles. Further in-depth research into the Rothenbaum painting is required in that it is a rare example exhibiting the influence of Kim Hong-do compared to other paintings on the theme of One Hundred Fans whose composition and painting style are more similar to those found in the work of Bak Gi-jun.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.429-445
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to provide ideas for the development of bag design by analyzing the expression types and aesthetic formativeness of modern bag design using tassels and fringe given the newtro trend pursuing analog sensitivity in modern society. The methods and scope of this study are as follows. First, the related literature and internet data were reviewed in order to examine the expression types and characteristics of the bags of the West and East. Next, the definition and characteristics of tassel and fringe decoration in terms of the history of clothing were analyzed. Finally, the expression types and aesthetic formativeness of tassels and fringe were derived through the analysis of modern bag design shown in the fashion collections since 2010. The bags decorated with the tassels and fringe bring a variety of visual effects depending on the attachment position, direction and material composition, concentrating the gaze and radiating original style. In this study, the expression of tassels and fringe in modern bag design was classified into three types: surface decoration, shape variability, and object combination. Next, the aesthetic formativeness of modern bag design using tassels and fringe as decorative elements appeared through the mixture of heterogeneous materials and playfulness through imagination, exaggeration through extension of length and volume, and retro characteristics through reinterpretation of tradition. This study is expected to contribute to creative ideas of modern bag design which requires a global sense, which has been used in various cultures for a long time.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2015

Fashion and architecture essentially have structure to build space for a form of three dimensions. This study defines the form in which structure in itself becomes design as structural simplicity and investigates design paying attention to only structure. It is one of efforts in order to display new design required in the age of a flood of design and it is considered that before developing design through the fusion of architecture and fashion, understanding structure which is the most fundamental element to constitute the form of the two genres will be a groundwork to develop proper fusion design. This study elucidates similarities between architecture and fashion through literature review and investigates structure meant in architecture and fashion, and after that, collects corresponding examples through related literature and fashion information site. For structural simplicity in architecture, structure of a building in itself is a form and decoration at the same time, and it appears as a form of minimizing other elements and stressing the structure only. Structure in fashion means composition line which essentially exists to embody two dimensional materials onto three dimensional human body. As elements of geometric lines are creatively expressed by a designer in order to constitute three dimensional form from structural simplicity, they connote a variety of functions and exert decorative effects as well. And the shape of structure expressed like this is employed as a tool to show off the designer's techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.5-23
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• 1998

The main purpose of this study was intended to analyze the image of N대-Expressionism represented in the late of 20th century fashion design. By the late 1960s and the early 1970s. the prevailing notion of modernity, which had pushed the limits of art beyond previous boundaries, had begun to lose its urgency. Critics called the new pluralistic era which the West was entering Post-Modern. Furthermore, the predominance of America and the New York scene is diminishing, and artistic leadership is now international. Post-Modernism dialectcally made denial of Modernism as likely as New Image Painting and Decorative Pattern Painting Art in 1970's and it was availed as a dialectcal means for the pre-diction of new comings that would be appeared at painting art in 1980's. New Image Painting has been called as Neo-Expressionism. The N대-Expressionists selected human's feature because appeared flankly, directly irregular agitation in the visual effect and they believed human's destructive and amputate body was cruelty. So they express it on the surface canvas. Under the these background, the image of Neo-Expressionism was represented in the late of 20th century fashion design such as the upside-down image of human feature, the image as ameditation on German myth and history, culture, the ecletic image is made of use a mixture of material. The properties of composition, line, color, texture, and form, common to all plastic art, are now more readily recognized and historically valued in every work. That is, individuality, humanity, and the human condition have been at the core of most Western art and Fashion design. Especially Fashion design has been one of the principal instruments used to examine our nature and to promote the notion of growth, self-understanding, and change.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.152-159
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• 2003

The considerations on the costumes of the past, which have been conducted to the present for the purpose of creating a new design, are not just a simple imitation, but playing a role as a re-creation of fashion. A corset, one of the underwear items, has an important role to exaggerate, emphasize, or modify the beauty of a human body. It also contributes to form a beautiful silhouette of the outerwear. Specifically, the role of a corset today is more than a physical modification: making an underwear into an outerwear; using detailed decorations or materials of an underwear in the part of other garments. In doing these, decorative functions of costumes have been more and more emphasized. Therefore, a study on the composition or design of a corset would be an important study on the garment item that reflects fashions required by this age. The significance of the study is in its potential to provide reference materials needed in creating new underwear designs or the designs that can be made into outerwear products, by trying and producing a corset of the past. To make the corset, the definition of underwear and the characteristics of a corset were explored based on the review of the materials in the foreign museums, relevant photographs, and literature. The corset was made after understanding its minute details and examining its patterns. Pattern drawing was carried out using a Pattern CAD. As an intial phase of reproducing the corsets in the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries, the scope of the present study was limited to the late Renaissance age, when corsets began to appear.