• 복식
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• 제62권5호
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• pp.73-87
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to find the Dart Manipulation with good fitting and evaluate the aesthetics of Dart Manipulation that is used in the designs of the original tops for women in their 30's. Subsequently, it suggests dart manipulation with good body fitting and physical fitness when designing original tops. The findings of this study are as follows. First, in the fitting of Dart Manipulation for different body types, cross direction Dart Manipulation received good marks in the Square Body Type while mixed direction and diagonal direction Dart Manipulation received high evaluation in the Standard Body Type. Also, for the Reverse Triangle Body Type, mixed direction Dart Manipulation received high marks. Since there are only small changes in fitting for the Square Body Type, the position of Dart Manipulation should be determined in regards to the aesthetic view as well as the fitting of the Standard Body Type and Reverse Triangle Body Type. Second, in the fitness of Dart Manipulation for different body types, an approach from the aesthetic view should be considered for Square Body Types because of the differences in fitness according to the position of dart manipulation. The fitness should be considered when positioning Dart Manipulation for the Standard Body Type and Reverse Triangle Body Type because of these differences. Third, for the greater variance of drop for these different body types, the change of the amount of dart received lower evaluation in fitting since the amount of dart increased when the dart was located higher than B.P. The number of dart should likely increase when gathering or tucking is necessary when there is an excessive amount of dart in Dart Manipulation for the different body types. Fourth, as for the changes of wrinkles in accordance with the body type, wrinkles were likely to be formed at the breast or neck area when there was a larger difference in drop. To prevent such problems, one more dart should be made on the wrinkle. In conclusion, the study suggests designing the original top with a better look and comfort by setting the balance between aesthetics and fitting in the design stage.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.219-230
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• 1994

The purpose of this comparative research is to investigate the change of the drafting method of the basic patterns for women in Korea. Followings were the findings of this research: 1) The concept of the basic pattern could be found after the first of the 1950s and there was introduction of the many basic patterns. At first measurement couldn't be found. Gradually the personal body type could be expressed in the basic pattern through the practical measurements such as the width of highest bust level and the length of neck to bust. 2) Through the ages the changes of the basic patterns were between 1950,60s and 1980,90s distinctively at the back width back shoulder angle front and back shoulder height from biceps line back neck ratio(height/width) BP position at the biceps line the amounts of underarm dart underarm dart position from the biceps lines and front ease angle at BP line. 3) 4 Grouping the types of the basic pattern followings are their characters; 1st Munwha or Doreme style 2nd waist dart group 3rd underarm dart and rectangular front ease 4th the usage of many measurements like as front length upper bust girth etc.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.929-944
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze two original forms of slacks for thesis to extract outward appearance of design original form applying design measures of the above through diverse research methods. The results of this study are as follow: In original form F, the original form of slacks sloper suitable to elderly women 65~9 years old was W/4+3.5+0.5cm in the front/back circumference of waist, H/4cm in the front/back circumference of hip, (H/4+1+3.8)/2cm in the position of centerline, 19cm in actual measurement value of hip length, 25cm in actual measurement value of crotch depth, (knee crotch circumference~bottom line)/2+10cm and 90 (side waist dot~ lateral malleolus length)cm in actual measurement. front dart position was 1/3 and 2/3 of front waist centerline and back dart position was 1/3 and 2/3 of back waist circumference. It was suggested that front dart quantity (length) was 3.5(11)cm, back dart quantity 3.4 (10.2)cm, side waist up quantity 0.7cm, back down quantity 1.5cm, front crotch width (H/4+1)/4-1cm, back crotch width (H/4+1)/4+4, front knee width 21.8cm, back knee width 24.4cm, front pant leg 20.8cm, and back pant leg 23.4cm.

• 제어로봇시스템학회:학술대회논문집
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• 제어로봇시스템학회 2004년도 ICCAS
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• pp.1480-1484
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• 2004

In this paper, a self-propulsive and small concrete floor finishing trowel robot with twin trowels is proposed. Due to the small size and omni-directional moving capability, it is adequate for small space such as apartment. By adjusting the posture of trowels, it can move in any direction without wheels. We used cheap PIC processor for the cost saving design of the modules and adopted mode processors for easy operation of control stick. For the position control of the robot, we made a motion control algorithm appealing to the stepping motor driver module and the wireless communication module between the robot and PC (or control stick). In this paper, we discuss the control problem of the floor finishing robot in order to move to the right position. By comparing experimental result with simulation, we show the validity of the robot mechanism, sensors, and the control system.

• Mass Spectrometry Letters
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.30-33
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• 2013

Chalcones are naturally occurring, biologically active molecules generating interest from a wide range of research applications including synthetic methodology development, biological activity investigation and studying fragmentation patterns. In this article, a series of chalcones has been synthesized and their fragmentation behavior was studied using modern ambient ionization technique Direct Analysis in Real Time (DART). DART ion source connected with an ion trap mass spectrometer was used for the fragmentation of various substituted chalcones. The chalcones were introduced to the DART source using a glass capillary without sample preparation step. All the chalcones showed prominent molecular ion peaks $[M]^{{\cdot}+}$ corresponding to the structures. Multistage mass spectral data $MS^n$ ($MS^2$ and $MS^3$) were collected for all the chalcones studied. The chalcones with substitutions at 3, 4 or 5 positions gave product ion peaks with the loss of a phenyl radical ($Ph^{\cdot}$) by radical initiated ${\alpha}$-cleavage, while substitution at 2 position of chalcone in the A-ring gave a product ion peak with the loss of substituted styryl radical (PhCH = $CH^{\cdot}$). In case of the chalcones with the substituent at 4 positions in A and B rings gave both types of fragmentation patterns. In conclusion, chalcones can be easily characterized using modern DART interface in very short time and efficiently without any cumbersome sample pretreatment.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.713-721
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• 2018

This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker's intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.

• 복식
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• 제64권3호
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• pp.77-92
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

• 대한인간공학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.109-125
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to provide basic data for a more functional torso's pattern by analyzing multidimensional anthropometric measurements and the wearing condition. For the functional torso's pattern drafting, the fitness state of basic torso's patterns(4 types) was compared and evaluated from the cross-sectioned overlap maps by $moir{\acute{e}}$ topography. The results were as follows: 1. According to the measurements of four patterns by using the one-dimensional measurement, the amount of ease in girth item for pattern A was the smallest. The ease of clothes was affected by the position of dart, the amount of dart, and the drafting method. 2. As the results of wearing evaluation by $moir{\acute{e}}$ topography method, pattern B had the largest space length for hip part, pattern A, C and D had the largest space length for bust part. Also, in the all measurement items, pattern A had the smallest amount of ease. The space length for bust and waist part of pattern B was smaller than pattern D, but, for abdomen and hip part of pattern B was larger than pattern D. The space length of pattern C was revealed intermediate for all measurement part. 3. The significant difference of space length of each pattern was shown in all parts except bust part(p<.05). The amount of space was affected by the amount of dart, the characteristics of the somatotype, and the drafting method.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 2003년도 가을 학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.309-310
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• 2003

3차원 어패럴 캐드 시스템은 의류산업의 자동화를 위해 세계적으로 꾸준히 연구가 이루어지고 있는 분야로서, 의복의 디자인에서부터 의복 패턴의 결정까지 모든 의복 생산 공정을 컴퓨터를 사용하여 관리, 조절할 수 있는 유용한 시스템이다. 어패럴 캐드 시스템은 지금까지 많은 연구가 이루어졌고 또 만족 할만한 결과들을 얻고 있다. 하지만 3차원 형상으로부터 최종적인 2차원 패턴을 결정할 때 다트를 주어 절개를 하여야하는데, 이 절개선의 결정에 대한 연구가 아직 이루어지지 않았으며, 사용자가 경험상 임의로 다트를 지정 해야하거나 의복에 사용하기에는 부적합하여 아직 미흡한 부분이 남아있다. (중략)

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.1073-1081
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• 2006

The development of foundation garment pattern on the typical adult women's body was carried out. By means of the flatted body surface shell, the foundation garment pattern was developed. And its fitting test also performed. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The investigated Foundation basic pattern was made by the allowing the maximum bust size without any surplus since it was based on the tight-fitted model drawing technique. The investigated the completed pattern was designed in three parts of front and back body, including bust. 2. The result showed by overlapping the torso basic pattern foundation and body surface development selected from body almost the same except for the shift of dart position. 3. The result by overlapping basic pattern 3 existing basic patterns. On the basis of top-bust line showed that the setting up the volume of dart of bust and its waist affect the appearance of model. Especially, it was found that the above result was related to the bust and under bust line. 4. The result of the wearing test of 3 existing basic patterns and basic pattern of this study revealed that the mean values of whole items were higher than average in type P and type E. The fitting & position of under-bust line and extent of wrapping bust showed the high points in the current study and type of P. The result of evaluating the whole appearance in three points(front, side, back) showed different according to the every basic foundation garment pattern.