• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.126-141
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the works of choreographer Philippe $Decoufl{\acute{e}}$ and the performance costumes designer Philippe Guillotel, and identify the intrinsic values shown in the formative characteristics in their works. And it proposes a vision and a direction for the development and performance of modern fashion phenomenon of media convergence performing arts complex. The results were as follows. First, the performance characteristics shown in Philippe $Decoufl{\acute{e}}$'s art pattern applies dynamic improvisation, decategorization reflected in the media interactivity, time and space of a variable scalability, complex artistic genres and transcends cultural boundaries. Second, the characteristics of the performance costume can be described as a co-existence between dynamics of aesthetic layers, 'Media body' represented by the interaction of the compounds with the technology, and integrated variable expandability. And aesthetic values inherent in the performance costumes are summarized as abstraction, playfulness, reproducibility, and theatricality. Modern fashion performance and limited production of the center 'costumes' in the fashion images can be used in diverse ways, and innovative marketing has gone through a change in image production. Metaphysical text of the advanced performance genre can be presented in a new perspective to fashion derivatives 'Media body'. And the aesthetics of popular culture kitsch, the grotesque, and surrealism in theater will produce creative stage direction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.459-473
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• 2019

This study analyzes a new aesthetic value of fashion design utilizing media art technology based on Marshall McLuhan's media theory, vitalize a creative fashion design by applying media art technology into traditional fashion design and discover the possibility of various formative expressions. The result of the analysis under the three criterion extracted through the examination of other art genre such as dance, music, architecture and painting are as follows. First, new concept clothing was designed in the way of combining science and technology with existing costume designs. Second, applying technology based media art images on clothes has been noticeably effected by changes to clothing surfaces. Third, fashion design using technology based media art stimulates the five senses and creates new communication structures. In conclusion, this study reveals that fashion design utilizing technology based media art, an innovative medium for future fashion development in digital society, has expanded the boundaries of fashion design beyond limits and contributed to diversity in creative fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.155-170
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• 2008

Club culture is the global trend for youth in 21st century. Club is the space that is created with close relationship among music, dance and fashion. It is also experimental cultural art space with endlessly transforming style. Furthermore it is a space for independent minor culture which represents speciality than generality of cultural appetite and style of club. Cultural communities formed around club and their parties have placed as a strong subculture trend based on youth age group. What they are creating as a subculture could be our tomorrow's main trend and clubbers also could be our major power sources for future. Therefore it is necessary to pay attention to club culture. The purposes of this research are to identify the concept of clubber, to analyzes their basic club culture characteristics and elements, and to find out unique fashion styles of Korean clubber in comparison with the origin. To study club fashion style's origin and background, this study searched a theoretical flow from 1930's to 1990's. Then, Korean clubber's style is derived by comparing background and origin of Korean club culture with those of abroad. To analyze in various point of view, theoretical backgrounds about social, cultural, dresses, and design were considered. Since research target is a visual image, street fashion is analyzed on through, music channels and magazines from 1930's to present as well as designer's art photographies. Internet sites', cub culture association's and sound association's photos were also extracted. as a visual evidences to offer actual evidences. Geological targets are selected among Korean club culture's origin such as Hong-Ik University area, Shin-chon, Chungdam-dong and Apgujung-dong areas. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, clubber's fashion style influenced magnificently on major fashion design instead of being just youngster's resistance toward control group and it is contributing to our fashion culture to enrich it. Secondly, fashion styles of korean clubbers are based on those of western sub-culture, but with a unique localized history.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.217-233
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• 2012

Placeness forms the traits unique to certain areas inducing people to visit there and purchase goods related to the place. The purpose of this study is to survey fashion images linked with placeness, by examining on-line and off-line fashion goods which claim the placeness. Hong-dae area in Seoul is selected for the case study, and the fashion goods claiming Hong-dae style or Hong-dae fashion are selected in order to analyze the fashion images. Hong-dae area, which was known for its art scenes and small restaurants in the 1980s, has been flourished its postmodern style cafes formed as yuppies-style consumer space in the 1990s. Foreign influenced subcultures were adopted, mimicked and mixed. Afterwards, dance clubs and live clubs gathered around this area. Recently, various local events to enhance the place identity such as "freemarket" and festivals are hosted by the local community. Based on the historical and regional background, the placeness of Hong-dae area is characterized with its artistry, counter-culturalism, and commercialism. The fashion images related of Hong-dae area fashion can be characterized as avant-garde image, art & craft image, kitsch image, vintage image, sexy casual image, and pop art image. The avant-garde image and the art & craft image are related with altistry and counter-culturalism. Kitsch image is related with the artistry, counter-culturalism, and the commercialism. Vintage image is related with artistry, counter-culturalism and commercialism. Sexy casual image is known to have commercialism of Hong-dae area, while Pop art image has its artistry and commercialism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.239-262
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• 1998

The pursuit of freedom by the individual--desire to be liberated from all forms of restrictions-- is one of the defining character-istic of the modern society. As costume is, in part, a product of the spirit of the times, it was only natural that this desire for freedom would find its expression in modern costume as well. Among various forms of restrictions, differentiaton by sex has placed one of the most significant binding influences on individual behavior. From early times, the dichotomous division by sex was incorporated into the disign of costume, and the traditional differestriction of costume by sex imposed a significant restriction on the background,“the modern androhynous look”was born as a by-product of the sexual liberation movement in the second half of the 20th century, based on the concept of the individual as a complete human being rather than as a member exclusively of either the male or the female sex. This paper seeks to examine the androgynous look within a coherent theoretical frame-work, and explore new design possibilities by analyzing and understanding the visual characteristics of the androgynous look. In addition, this paper seeks to define the functional aspects of the androgynous look based on the premise that costume is an embodiment of the spirit of the times. As for research methodology, both theoretical and historical methods are employed. Through a theoretical examination of historical documents, the meaning of the androgynous look is explored from various angles, and order to examine its place in modern fashion, an-drogynous styles are categorized and system atically analyzed. The main findings of the paper can be summarized as follows : 1. Androgyny is a compound word consisting of“andro-”(meaning man) and“gyn-”(meaning woman). In modern times, this word has been associated with the socio-cultural aspect of gender rather than the physical or physiological aspect with the pshchological characteristics of the male and female sexes. Androgynous styles also appear in fashion and general arts such as drama, film, dance, and music. In fashion, the androgynous look, represented by the visual superimposition of “masculine”and “faminine”elements, has emerged as a major element of the 20th-century costume, and has gained broad acceptance among those free spirits wishing to be liberated from the conventional conceptions of male clothing, and the unisex look. 3. The androgynous look in modern fashion reflects the spirit of the 20th century society and culture, and performs various functions as follows : expression of fun, change in gender roles, expression of the inner consciousness, and pursuit of the ideal human type.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.41-50
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• 2004

This research proposes the on-stage costumes for the play Hamlet of Shakespeare performed by Yunheedan Guhri Pae - the Street Theater Troupe. Stage costumes have an important role in displaying the characteristics of each characters to the audience and has big visual effects. However, in order to design the costumes in the object viewpoints of the audience, the survey on the images of the characters who had actually watched the performance was taken place and proposed the costume design according to the results of the survey. Hamlet a: This result was applied to propose a sweater in black color, black leather pants and vest. Hamlet b: This result was applied to propose hooded coat in purple in middle level of brightness and color spectrum and yellow coat. For free image, loose pants in blue and vest in the same color tone were proposed. Gertrude a: This result was applied to use purple (violet) with reddish tone to propose the formation of a dress applying tailored suit. Gertrude b: This result was applied to propose purple gown and the one-piece dress with black laces. Ophelia a: This result was applied to propose feminine white dress and cape in purple color tone. Ophelia b: This result was applied to propose dyed and weaved clothes. Through the surveys as above, the images of each character was driven in adjectives, and using the results driven from the brightness, coloration, and color, color images were proposed. Only one costume cannot make up for the stage costumes and because it exists as an element of stage production, it is true that costumes are limited in some areas. However, that limit can become the motive of the costume. There is a limit, which the designer cannot produce the costumes as he or she had designed but I believe it is the center of the on-stage customers to display the characteristics of the characters according to the given concept. The limit of this research is the fact that because the costumes were designed so they fit the conditions already given, thus it was difficult to regard the process of designing and producing the costume as a project done according to the interaction. And in the future, if it is possible, I wish for the joint research with the people responsible for stage art to take place as a practical stage art. It was possible to produce practical costume since they were produced for actual performance and the production of costumes considering the dance steps, line of flow, and acting, was able to reduce the trial and error on stage. Through this research, I felt that the understanding and smooth interaction on diverse other areas not limited to the costume design should be taken place and believe that this was a research that proposes new research method since there had been only a few previous research regarding the on-stage costumes for actual performances. Therefore, this research had depended on the surveys given to the audiences to endow objectivity, however, I wish this research can contribute to defining effective process and methods for the on-stage costumes with more active researches with diverse methods and in diverse areas. I am sorry that the costume production for all the characters and all the scenes in Hamlet couldn't be done due to many limitations. As the following research assignment, I am planning on designing the costumes for all the scenes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.172-183
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the dress and its ornaments of low-level officials shown in Tamna-Sullyeokdo, the paintings of the inspection tour of Jeju Island. The low-level officials Include low-level soldiers-sungjungun, gichigun, foot soldiers, cavalries, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, najang, and sawon-, musicians, servants, and kisaengs in government employ. 1. Different types of low-level soldiers tended to wear different kinds of clothes that is worn under an outer garment and to wear different coats and trousers depending on an outer garment. That is, sungjunggun, gichigun, foot soldiers, and cavalries were jeonbok over a jeogori and baji. On the other hand, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, and najang were houi or jakui over a jeogori and baji. However, Sawon simply were Jeonbok or armer or they wore Cheolik in formal occasions. 2. Musicians wore a jeonlib, a type of hat, decorated with an ear of barley and a red houi over a Jungchimak, a man's outer coat with large sleeves. Musicians wore colorful red clothes in order to add to the amusement during military trainings or banquets. 3. Servants in government employ had their hair in plaits and wore a jeonbok over a Jungchimak or baji and jeogori. However, when they dance during banquets, they were cheolik and jeonlib decored with/without an ear of barley or red flowers. 4. Gisaengs in government employ wore a gache on their head and wonsam, a woman's full dress during big occasions. They, on the other hand, wore a jeogoli and chima for regular occasions.