• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.87-101
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• 2005

Jazz derived from the blacks' work songs and made the frame of Jazz reaching blues and finally arrived at the recent time propagating itself as not only the blacks' music but all human being's music. This study has a purpose to suggest the Jazz image to the fashion design by examining the historical trace of Jazz which is one of popular music received by hearing sense. As for the result of the Jazz's effects by age, rhythmical beauty stressing dresses were in fashion by dance enjoying women in 1920's and dresses giving a mature atmosphere set the fashion in 1930's. in the beginning of 1990's, newly emerging Jazz was reflected to the popular culture along with the historical mode's fashion in the general society. The design's decided with two themes of Jazz Classic and Neo Fusion to modernly and naturally express the pursuit of strong color contrast which associated fast rhythm and lax image such as the counter melody of smooth Jazz. In that result, Jazz image with auditory feelings could suggest the various design motive and new idea to fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.529-546
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• 2004

The Chosun Dynasty＇s establishment of Five-Ceremony, which occurred shortly after its founding, and the revision of traditional Korean music were based on Confucianism＇s Ceremony-Pleasure Idea(예약사상). The purpose of this study is to determine the effect of Cheo-Yong dancing, both social and political, on the role of royal dancing. Furthermore, this study will consider what the Chosun Dynasty＇s(조선) rulers pursued, by researching the reasonswhy Cheo-Yong dancing changed with the times along with the symbolic change of clothing for Cheo-Yong dancing through (Ak-Hak-Gue-Bum), a book which explains music and dance in Chosun Dynasty as a part of Ceremony-Pleasure Idea(예약사상) the people ruled ever the country tough courtesy etiquette and music. Consequently, Cheo-Yong dancing which was introduced in (Ak-Hak-Gue-Bum) played the roles of justifying, strengthening and displaying royal authority. And because the symbolism of Cheo-Yong dancing is reflected in clothing for Cheo-Yong dancing, it can be concluded that it expresses not only the sense of value of that times but also ruler＇s idea.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.81-81
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• 2001

R.O.C. has experienced successively the development of previous dynasties that creates out the unique traditional culture of each stage. The Chinese nation is not a one-fold race; each dynasty absorbs the culture of the outside race. It is Tang Dynasty blends mutually however yield unusually brilliant results. The Tang Dynasty's national strength is forceful and the economy is prosperous. Above all, social custom and current of thought both break the constraint of previous dynasties' conservative thinking and keep positive and aggressive. While in the contact with extraterritorial culture, not only changes the feminine social status, but also produces unprecedented innovation and reform on the feminine dress. The Tang Dynasty's varied feminine suit is affected by the western regions of China culture, such as expose of chest, low collar, short top garment and skirt with narrow sleeves or wide sleeves, sleeve gown with plate collar or turndown collar, man's wear, and military dress, etc. An epoch can be known by Tang Dynasty feminine dress's special features, for example, the make-up of Tang-Shien-lon's Uan-Ho period presents dress style of late Tang days. However, the Chinese people compete mutually pursuing the strange costume, and accepting different cultural incitement This reveals that the changes of popular culture would result in the big transform of the Tang's dress style. This paper studies inherit of Tang Dynasty's culture and east-spread of the western regions of China culture. While understanding the Tang's favor in the western regions of China customs, all follow the western regions of China without exception, such as dance music, painting, dress, food, amusement, etc. Because of emperor's progressive race policy and forgiveness attitude to the foreign tribe that makes Tang Dynasty's feminine dress much easier to accept and blend the special features of the foreign tribe culture. While joined with west culture, and pick the dress's essence of the western regions of China, the original possessed of culture consciousness and esthetic sense improve and create their own dress, as well as enrich more inner part of dress art and the spirit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.31-42
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• 2000

This study investigated the history of whakwan (crown, 화관(花冠)) and classified the types of whakwan accordint to its structure. Whakwan seemed to originate from the custome of sticking flowers in the hair which was the reflection of human desire of pursuing the beauty . The whakwan fist appeared in the Oriental painting during the Tang period and became fashionable is Song. It is not clear when whakwan was introduced into Korea, but is assumed to be greatly influenced by the Song whakwan. The Korean record on whakwan showed on whakwan showed fro the fist time in the reign of Kimg Sejong and whakwan was used for the costume of a dancing boy. Through the present type of whakwan appeared only one in the painting of the reign of King Seonjo, there are a number of whakwans in the lattern part of the Chosun dynasty, Now there exist three types of whakwan in Korea. The first type is similar to that of Chokduri in decoration . But it was made of paper, had the double structures of inner and outer part and was decorated by Yangkwan's vertical lines of gilt paper. The second type is the whakwan made of artifical flowers with various color cords and was widely used in Geesung and Pyungyang regions. Finally, though the third type is similar to Sabangkwan, its outside was decorated gaudilly iby Dangchae (colorful painting ) and it was assumed that dancing bodys put it on their head for various banquets. Out of these three types, the first is most representative , Black was the popularly used color for the first type and this type was used either for brides on wedding ceremonies or for shamans or palace dancers. The second type was widely used in Gaesung and Pyungyang regions. But the differences in the shape of whakwan of the two regions showed the regional characteristics of traditional costumes in Korea. The third type was most likely to be used in the dance for palace banquets, but it is necessary to further investigate whether shamans actually wore this type of whakwan.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.217-233
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• 2012

Placeness forms the traits unique to certain areas inducing people to visit there and purchase goods related to the place. The purpose of this study is to survey fashion images linked with placeness, by examining on-line and off-line fashion goods which claim the placeness. Hong-dae area in Seoul is selected for the case study, and the fashion goods claiming Hong-dae style or Hong-dae fashion are selected in order to analyze the fashion images. Hong-dae area, which was known for its art scenes and small restaurants in the 1980s, has been flourished its postmodern style cafes formed as yuppies-style consumer space in the 1990s. Foreign influenced subcultures were adopted, mimicked and mixed. Afterwards, dance clubs and live clubs gathered around this area. Recently, various local events to enhance the place identity such as "freemarket" and festivals are hosted by the local community. Based on the historical and regional background, the placeness of Hong-dae area is characterized with its artistry, counter-culturalism, and commercialism. The fashion images related of Hong-dae area fashion can be characterized as avant-garde image, art & craft image, kitsch image, vintage image, sexy casual image, and pop art image. The avant-garde image and the art & craft image are related with altistry and counter-culturalism. Kitsch image is related with the artistry, counter-culturalism, and the commercialism. Vintage image is related with artistry, counter-culturalism and commercialism. Sexy casual image is known to have commercialism of Hong-dae area, while Pop art image has its artistry and commercialism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.155-170
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• 2008

Club culture is the global trend for youth in 21st century. Club is the space that is created with close relationship among music, dance and fashion. It is also experimental cultural art space with endlessly transforming style. Furthermore it is a space for independent minor culture which represents speciality than generality of cultural appetite and style of club. Cultural communities formed around club and their parties have placed as a strong subculture trend based on youth age group. What they are creating as a subculture could be our tomorrow's main trend and clubbers also could be our major power sources for future. Therefore it is necessary to pay attention to club culture. The purposes of this research are to identify the concept of clubber, to analyzes their basic club culture characteristics and elements, and to find out unique fashion styles of Korean clubber in comparison with the origin. To study club fashion style's origin and background, this study searched a theoretical flow from 1930's to 1990's. Then, Korean clubber's style is derived by comparing background and origin of Korean club culture with those of abroad. To analyze in various point of view, theoretical backgrounds about social, cultural, dresses, and design were considered. Since research target is a visual image, street fashion is analyzed on through, music channels and magazines from 1930's to present as well as designer's art photographies. Internet sites', cub culture association's and sound association's photos were also extracted. as a visual evidences to offer actual evidences. Geological targets are selected among Korean club culture's origin such as Hong-Ik University area, Shin-chon, Chungdam-dong and Apgujung-dong areas. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, clubber's fashion style influenced magnificently on major fashion design instead of being just youngster's resistance toward control group and it is contributing to our fashion culture to enrich it. Secondly, fashion styles of korean clubbers are based on those of western sub-culture, but with a unique localized history.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.105-119
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• 2004

Cultural hybridization and global cross-fertilization, begun since the 1990s, mean the hybrid mixture of the low-class popular arts and the high-class fine arts and have found expression in intertextuality by means of the thinking system of de-constructuralist post-modernism. This study was intended to investigate the artistic intertextuality between fashion and art frontiere, especially between such fields as 'animation', 'music', and 'performing arts' and 'fashion', which shows the greatest characteristic of the phenomenon that the non-mainstream culture flows into the mainstream culture. It also aimed to investigate the intertextuality between 'technology' and 'fashion' as the delivery room of the youth culture and copycat culture due to the benefit of technologies since the 20th-century digital revolution. Animation as the neo-pop art with the popular code coming to the forefront in the 21th century integrated high-class fashion and low-class fashion into one through the combination of fashion and humor, and the musical element referring to the social difference of the cultural field and the social strata is becoming the 21th-century fashion icon through its fusion with the pictorial tendency along with the leisure-time life of the non-mainstream strata. In terms of intertextuality in performing arts, fashion style performs an important role in the presentation of performing arts and since the de-construction of the fin-de-ciecle form and its fusion with media have taken place, fashion works become and element of the origin that has an influence on a series of film, dance, dramatic elements and the like. The paradigm of technology made it socially and culturally possible to achieve the architecture of clothing system necessary for fashionable technical clothing by allowing the possibility of imitation, the function of technology to form popular culture. The intertextual tendency in the 21th-century fashion began from the de-constructive phenomenon of existing norms and now takes the multicultural character of surpassing a certain domain or concept. And it positions itself as the total art of spearheading the low-class culture and the non-mainstream culture as the hybrid domain of mainstream and non-mainstream cultures or high-class and low-class cultures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.172-183
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the dress and its ornaments of low-level officials shown in Tamna-Sullyeokdo, the paintings of the inspection tour of Jeju Island. The low-level officials Include low-level soldiers-sungjungun, gichigun, foot soldiers, cavalries, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, najang, and sawon-, musicians, servants, and kisaengs in government employ. 1. Different types of low-level soldiers tended to wear different kinds of clothes that is worn under an outer garment and to wear different coats and trousers depending on an outer garment. That is, sungjunggun, gichigun, foot soldiers, and cavalries were jeonbok over a jeogori and baji. On the other hand, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, and najang were houi or jakui over a jeogori and baji. However, Sawon simply were Jeonbok or armer or they wore Cheolik in formal occasions. 2. Musicians wore a jeonlib, a type of hat, decorated with an ear of barley and a red houi over a Jungchimak, a man's outer coat with large sleeves. Musicians wore colorful red clothes in order to add to the amusement during military trainings or banquets. 3. Servants in government employ had their hair in plaits and wore a jeonbok over a Jungchimak or baji and jeogori. However, when they dance during banquets, they were cheolik and jeonlib decored with/without an ear of barley or red flowers. 4. Gisaengs in government employ wore a gache on their head and wonsam, a woman's full dress during big occasions. They, on the other hand, wore a jeogoli and chima for regular occasions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.41-50
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• 2004

This research proposes the on-stage costumes for the play Hamlet of Shakespeare performed by Yunheedan Guhri Pae - the Street Theater Troupe. Stage costumes have an important role in displaying the characteristics of each characters to the audience and has big visual effects. However, in order to design the costumes in the object viewpoints of the audience, the survey on the images of the characters who had actually watched the performance was taken place and proposed the costume design according to the results of the survey. Hamlet a: This result was applied to propose a sweater in black color, black leather pants and vest. Hamlet b: This result was applied to propose hooded coat in purple in middle level of brightness and color spectrum and yellow coat. For free image, loose pants in blue and vest in the same color tone were proposed. Gertrude a: This result was applied to use purple (violet) with reddish tone to propose the formation of a dress applying tailored suit. Gertrude b: This result was applied to propose purple gown and the one-piece dress with black laces. Ophelia a: This result was applied to propose feminine white dress and cape in purple color tone. Ophelia b: This result was applied to propose dyed and weaved clothes. Through the surveys as above, the images of each character was driven in adjectives, and using the results driven from the brightness, coloration, and color, color images were proposed. Only one costume cannot make up for the stage costumes and because it exists as an element of stage production, it is true that costumes are limited in some areas. However, that limit can become the motive of the costume. There is a limit, which the designer cannot produce the costumes as he or she had designed but I believe it is the center of the on-stage customers to display the characteristics of the characters according to the given concept. The limit of this research is the fact that because the costumes were designed so they fit the conditions already given, thus it was difficult to regard the process of designing and producing the costume as a project done according to the interaction. And in the future, if it is possible, I wish for the joint research with the people responsible for stage art to take place as a practical stage art. It was possible to produce practical costume since they were produced for actual performance and the production of costumes considering the dance steps, line of flow, and acting, was able to reduce the trial and error on stage. Through this research, I felt that the understanding and smooth interaction on diverse other areas not limited to the costume design should be taken place and believe that this was a research that proposes new research method since there had been only a few previous research regarding the on-stage costumes for actual performances. Therefore, this research had depended on the surveys given to the audiences to endow objectivity, however, I wish this research can contribute to defining effective process and methods for the on-stage costumes with more active researches with diverse methods and in diverse areas. I am sorry that the costume production for all the characters and all the scenes in Hamlet couldn't be done due to many limitations. As the following research assignment, I am planning on designing the costumes for all the scenes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.459-473
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• 2019

This study analyzes a new aesthetic value of fashion design utilizing media art technology based on Marshall McLuhan's media theory, vitalize a creative fashion design by applying media art technology into traditional fashion design and discover the possibility of various formative expressions. The result of the analysis under the three criterion extracted through the examination of other art genre such as dance, music, architecture and painting are as follows. First, new concept clothing was designed in the way of combining science and technology with existing costume designs. Second, applying technology based media art images on clothes has been noticeably effected by changes to clothing surfaces. Third, fashion design using technology based media art stimulates the five senses and creates new communication structures. In conclusion, this study reveals that fashion design utilizing technology based media art, an innovative medium for future fashion development in digital society, has expanded the boundaries of fashion design beyond limits and contributed to diversity in creative fashion design.