• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.55 no.2
• /
• pp.146-165
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study is to identify differences in the formative characteristics and system of Jobok by comparing the three relics Ui, Sang, and Daedae, which comprised Jeon-Sik's Jobok, with the data in the literature and five excavated Jobok relics, Sin Kyung-yu, Kwon-Woo, Hwasan-Gun, Milchang-Gun, and Lee Ik-jeong, from the 17th and 18th centuries. Jeon-Sik'sJobok was designated as a Gyeongbuk tangible cultural heritage, Sangju JeonSik Jobok and Crafts, in 2021. The three components of Jeon-Sik's Jobok are valuable as historical data since they are the oldest relics confirming colors. Regrettably, the edging fabric of the Ui made of red twill was mostly lost, with only traces remaining. Based on records, it was presumed that the edging fabric was black. It was confirmed that white decorative lines were yet to be used. In Jeon Sik's Sang, only the three front widths and one rear width remain, but the shape of the four rear widths can be inferred, and the creases were held only at the waist. Eighteenth-century Sang was connected at intervals at the end of the waist. Seventeenth-century Sang was connected with a slight overlapping of the rear Sang below the front Sang; therefore, it is assumed that Jeon Sik's Sang was also connected by overlapping the rear by more or less than 5cm below the front. After Hwasan-gun, the Sang was first made using black lines, then white lines were inserted, and, finally, it was pleated from the waist to the hem. The Daedae made the Yo and the Sin by folding the corners to form a 冂 shape with a single long band. The white Ju(紬) and the green yumunsa were used for the Daedae and the edges. This matches the color of the Daedae seen in the Jobok portraits of Milchang-gun, Lee Ik-jeong, and Jeong Hwi-ryang from the 18th century. In the 17th century, the Daedae made the Yo and the Sin by folding a long band like the Daedae of Jeon-Sik. After the 18th century, the Yo and the Sin were made separately and connected. To tie the Daedae to the waist, thin straps were attached at both ends. The relics of Jeon-Sik can be evaluated as reflecting the 17th-century Jobok system in terms of color and shape. Furthermore, it can be said that they are important historical data complementing the insufficient or inaccurate records of the Gukjoolyeui-seolye and Gyeongguk-daejeon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.3
• /
• pp.75-85
• /
• 2001

The system of washing and shrouding a dead body is a series of procedures for encoffining in funeral rites, which are taken after death indentification by using CHOKWANG and praying for the resurrection of a dead body by calling a soul departed from the body. The washing and shrouding a dead body (hereinafter reffered to as "YEOMSEUP") is the broad concept which contains the procedures of washing, clothing and shrouding the body. The clothing includes washing, putting rices into the mouth. and then dressing while the shrouding includes first wrapping, second-wrapping and encoffining. The clothes for YEOMSEUP (all clothes and articles for funeral rites are designated) will be put in the coffin along with a dead body according to the YEOMSEUP procedures. Dasan, a SILHAK scholar in the late Yi Dynasty, pointed out some problems of the funeral rites observed in those days. At the same time, he found that the problems had arisen from the misinterpretation of the original descriptions in Chinese characters. and had tried to correct them. The books written by Dasan basically emphasized his ideology reshaping the whole procedures by trimming and removing meaningless formalities which are too much luxurious and wasteful and making them as a part of the original principles of the funeral rites. His Intents are clearly shown in his wrings on practical ettiquttes, such as SANGRYESAJON and SANGUIJEOLYO. In its attempt, this study aims at reformulating the DASAN\\`s SANGRYESAJON in terms of YEOMSEUP methods. A lot of virtues of the Dasan, like WOOSU, SIMUI, DAEDAE, MO, SORYUMHYO and DAERYUMHYO could also be found accordingly. The merits and characteristic in funeral rites are an obedience in filial duty, the pursuit of frugality. and the efficiency of practical functions. It could be said that the resurvey of DASAN′s theory on YEOMSEUP procedures is a meaningful work today when the original meaning of funeral rites fades out. Furthermore, discussions of refined burial service and encouraging cremation designed to improve land use, which are widely spread among people, could weaken the basic philosophy of YEOMSEUP and more likely propagate the atmosphere of despising the dignity of human beings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.5
• /
• pp.133-148
• /
• 2016

This study examined dahoe(多繪-braided cord) and mangsu(網綬-ornament of husu for ceremonial dress) used in myeon gwan(冕冠), daedae(大帶), and husu(後綬) among royal formal dresses in the Joseon Dynasty(1392-1910) based on historical materials including literature, relics, and paintings. The results of this study are as follows. In myeon-gwan, dahoe was used for cap strings, goeing(紘) and yeong(纓). Cap strings were applied to the king, the Crown Prince, and the eldest son of the Crown Prince regardless of their status, and they showed differences among the periods. Both goeing and yeong were used during the early period of Joseon, and then only yeong was used in the late period. As goeing was removed and only yeong was used in the late period, patterns combining goeing and yeong, in color and wearing method, appeared. Dahoe used in cap strings is dongdahoe(童多繪-a kind of braided cord). In daedae, 'nyuyak(紐約)' was tied up to its fastening part. The material of nyuyak was changed from dongdahoe in the early Joseon Dynasty to guangdahoe(廣多繪-a kind of braided cord) in the late period, and the method of using it was also changed. Husu was imported from Beijing in China during the early period of the Joseon Dynasty, but in 1747, it was regulated to be woven in Joseon, and at that time, King Yeongjo attempted to restore the institution of weaving husu with "320 su(首)," namely, 6,400 strands as specified for the status of a prince of the Ming Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.133-143
• /
• 1978

This study is a latter series of 'A Study on the Changes of Court Dresses in the Yi Dynasty' (see Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 1. No. 2. 1977), and tries to discuss the additional clothing style--- Hapee(하피), Mal(말), Sang(상), Daedae(대대), Pesle(폐슬) and Seock(석) as well as how to obtain the textile fabric used in queens' wedding ceremony and Noeyoe(노의) and Jangsam(장삼). Through Karedogam(가예도감), it can be found that as queen's casual dress gold-round-pattern Noeyoe(금원문노의) was used, and the royal princesses wore Dan Noeyoe(단노의). Noeyoe was long in back and short in front and it was very luxurious with the two-phoenix pattern. Jangsam was queens' casual dress, and the royal princesses wore simple and double Jangsam. In public, the wives of the officials above the 5th-Class in status wore Jangsam; Noeyoe is a higher-class dress than Jangsam.

• Journal of Korean Society of Forest Science
• /
• v.99 no.1
• /
• pp.153-162
• /
• 2010

Abies holophylla Maxim. is a shade tolerant species that has potential to be used for continuous cover forestry system. Stand structure and natural regeneration of A. holophylla stands in Yong-In area located in the central part of Korea was investigated to estimate the self sustainability of A. holophylla plantation. Species composition, diameter at breast height (DBH) and height distribution of trees larger than 2 cm DBH were measured in ten stands in three study sites of Jeongsu-ri, Daedae-ri, and Hodong. Species and coverage of shrub layer, and A. holophylla seedlings were also investigated. While A. holophylla in non-managed stands (Jengsuri and Daedae-ri study sites) had the importance value of 40% and showed continuous diameter and age distribution, A. holophylla in Hodong site had narrow bell-shaped DBH distribution mostly concentrating between 25-35 cm DBH classes, and single canopy structure. Abies holophylla stands in Hodong have experienced occasional thinning and selective cutting. The correlation coefficient between age-DBH was significant but low ($R^2$=0.2, P=0.03), and similar aged A. holophylla had diverse DBH values. Continuos DBH distribution and multi-canopy structure of A. holophylla stands in Jeongsu-ri site show that natural regeneration of A. holophylla has been continuously occurred in this area. Seedling density of A. holophylla was between 2000 and 33000/ha, however, the number of trees in 2-5 cm DBH class was only 40-150 trees/ha, implying that the survival rate of seedlings is not high. Continuous natural regeneration and 0.6 cm/year of diameter growth rate of A. holophylla indicate that this area could be an appropriate habitat for this species, and A. holophylla plantation in this region seem to persist suggesting the possibility of managing the stands for continuous cover forestry system as well as selective harvesting practices.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.21 no.2
• /
• pp.75-94
• /
• 2019

The Joseon Tongsinsa Festival has been held annually in May in Busan. It reenacts the procession of the Joseon Tongsinsa that the Joseon Government delegated to Japan four times in the 18th century. In the most important situation during the meandering period, three envoys (Jeongsa, Busa, Jongsagwan) who led the Joseon Tongsinsa, wore Jobok, but at the Joseon Tongsinsa Festival, the three envoys are wearing Jobok, which are not historically accurate. The Jobok called Geumgwan Jobok and were comprised of Yanggwan, Eui, Sang, Jungdan, Peasul, Su, Pumdae, Daedae, Paeok, Hall, Mal, and Hwa. These were ranked from first class to ninth class by personal ornamentation such as Yanggwan, Su, Pumdae, Paeok. So, this study is focused on ascertaining the Jobok of the 18th century for the three envoys who were ranked third grade. This study is based on literature, artifacts, and portraits that can depict the 18th century Jobok including all components. It was based on The 7th Korean Human Body Survey Final Report (2015) in order to produce all components of the Jobok of the modern males in their 50s who are playing the role of the three envoys in the Joseon Tongsinsa Festival.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.3
• /
• pp.135-146
• /
• 2016

This study is examines the replica of the excavated braided belt that tied the Daedae(大帶) of Simui(深衣). This study aims to comprehend the structure and color of the excavated braided belt, and to reproduce the Jodae(braided belt) of Kim Won-taek(1683-1766) clan, which was excavated in Cheongju. Black dye was used on the belt since it was the color that remained the most on the artifact. This study in the color black is focused on the Cheungchosack in Jeonggongji(展功志) from the first volume of 'Yimwongyeongjeji(林圓經濟志)'. From the Kim Won-taek clan, the braided belt of Simui of Kim Won-taek and his son, Kim Shang-jik(1716-1773), have been excavated. The blackness of the braided belt was more apparent in Kim Shang-jik compared to Kim Won-taek, and also Kim Shang-jik's braided belt was darkbrown. So I mixed gallnut, green vitriol, ash tree and catechu, the ingredient of bluish black, in equal proportions. Kim Won-taek's silk thread was dyed 3 times and Kim Sang-jik's silk thread was dyed 5 times to reproduce the original belt. Based on the information from the 'Saryepyenlam(四禮便覽)' that the Jo was weaved with five colored threads, I reproduced the Jo with sophora flowers, gardenia, amur cork tree, safflower, madder and indigo sediment. Yeokeum organization(interlacing), which is a Jodae woven strands of both sets of 15 repeats construction were in the mixed organization of 3/2 and 2/2.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.7
• /
• pp.11-28
• /
• 2014

Chinyoung(親迎) is one of the detailed procedures of a wedding ceremony, of which the bridegroom visits the bride's home to receive and bring her to his home. And, Procession Illustration (班次圖) is a type of drawing that shows how people of various social classes are arranged in their predetermined positions in a royal ceremony. Thus, 'Chinyoung Procession Illustration(親迎班次圖)' refers to the drawing of the march in the course of Joseon's royal wedding ceremony, in which the bridegroom receives and brings the bride to his home. This paper aims to reconstruct the Chinyoung Procession Illustration for a princess as an image, which has never been done. There are no drawings or pictures of the princesses' Chinyoung Procession, but only written records. Thus, we completed the Procession Illustration by dressing the participants in accordance with their social classes and arranging them in the march. The arrangements were based on historical records of social classes, positions, number, and costumes. As for the princesses' weddings in the late Joseon period, a total of 18 wedding records remain. We selected Princess Bok-On's (福溫公主: 1818~1832) wedding as the subject of reconstruction as it had the greatest number of participants. In addition, due to the great number of participants, this study limits its focus to the female participants, with the male participants to be examined in future research. The result confirmed that the number of participants in Princess Bok-On's Chinyoung Procession was 184, including the bride and bridegroom, and the number of female participants was 26 in total, including the princess and women placed around her. The women participants wore Rip(笠), Neoul(羅兀), Jeonmo(氈帽), Garima(加里磨), Noeui(露衣), Hwaleui(豁衣), Dangeui(唐衣), Jeogori(赤古里), Chima(赤亇), Malgun(袜裙), Daedae(大帶), Onhye(溫鞋), Dokhye(禿鞋).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.24 no.1
• /
• pp.95-107
• /
• 2022

In reality, the distinction between the Korean traditional culture and the cultures of other countries is at a delicate boundary. Additionally in the wake of the recent socio-cultural confrontation between Korea and China, it has become necessary to establish the foundation and area of Korean traditional culture and to actively utilize the importance of improving awareness of Korean traditional culture. To reorganize the reckless use of the gold foil pattern shown in the rental hanbok, data on the museum's collection of gold leaf patterns were collected and analyzed. Based on the gold foil, Gilsang characters such as Phoenix pattern, Crane pattern, Bat pattern, Flower pattern, Fruit pattern and recovery advice were extracted through references. The traditional gold foil pattern was reconstructed and relocated to design the gold leaf patch. Based on the collection and analysis of the museum's relics, the Wonsam & Daedae, Dangeui, Sranchima, Sagyusam, Jeonbok, Bokgun, and Daenggi were produced. Therefore, we present the possibility of producing gold foil and modern methods for producing gold foil using laser cutting techniques that can express refinement and complexity well, and gold foil thermal transfer paper with retouchable effects. Additionally, we would like to reflect upon the practicality and the convenience to modern people by considering the complexity and hassle of the traditional gold foil production process, and the disadvantages of processes that require relatively longer time. It intends to help revitalize the market of Korean traditional clothing and fashion products.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.26 no.1
• /
• pp.68-91
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study is to create modern patterns based on considering the types and design elements of Joseon hwapo patterns containing Korean identity, and to develop costume designs by applying design elements of traditional Korean dress, Hanbok. These designs combine traditional costumes with modern sensibility using the attribute listing method, and present them using a 3D virtual clothing program. Through this, it is meaningful as it organizes data on Joseon hwapo patterns, which were rarely dealt with in the traditional Korean costume research, and it is also of research value as it is a work that utilizes Joseon hwapo patterns as a new source of fashion design development. As a research method, literature research was conducted based on the documents, 'Nabeshima-sarasa hidensho', 'Nabeshima-sarasa mihoncho', and 'Zoho kafu benran', which are related to Joseon hwapo remaining in Japan. Based on the literature research, research was performed by creating pattern design and costume design using the attribute listing method, and 3D virtual clothing. Traditional Korean costumes used in design development in this study were saekdong-jeogori, dolddi-jeogori, magoja, hongjangsam, durumagi, jungdan, gollyongpo, jeogui, breast band, mujigi-chima, chima, and baji. Further, accessories used in each costume, such as pyeseul, daedae, hapi, and jeonhaeng-utchima, and features of configurations, such as yongbo, chest ribbons, band hem, gusset, collar and dongjung, heorimalgi, neckline, and sapok line, were used for design development.