• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.657-664
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• 2005

Man's search for beauty has been going on from prehistoric time until today, and the pursuit of beauty has been progressing, regardless of the times, as a human psychological desire. In the search for beauty, hair and make-up have been subjects of interest for a long time, but the development of designs for these two aspects are still behind compared to other areas. Therefore, this study aims to propose various new and creative hair and make-up designs and to suggest their possible development. Using existing literature, this paper studied the skin color and hair color of Koreans that had been studied in earlier papers. It also aimed to understand the hair color and hair color images that are suitable for each skin color, classify the modern hair and make-up trends into different images - natural, surrealistic, minimalist, and cyber look, and also analyze them. Actual hair and make-up were also designed based on these images. To depict the natural image, the make-up was made intentionally dark as the skin color; natural materials were used for hair decoration; brown and yellow were used for the eye shadow to express the natural and romantic image of autumn, in general. Second, in the work expressing the surrealistic image, the hair was creatively decorated with a collage of various objects; yellow, green, and red eye shadows and lip expression were used to visually achieve the surrealistic fantasy look. Thirdly, in the work expressing the minimalist image, hair style with bangs without any hair decoration was used; make-up colors were minimized as well, creating a generally simple image. Finally, for the work expressing the cyber image, metallic material decoration was used on a puff-up hair style; the cyber image was emphasized through the use of graphical elements in the make-up.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.112-126
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of 'movement' expression in modern fashion(1910-2004) based on a study of modern fine arts which adopted 'movement' element in their work. In this study the meaning of movement was defined as motion, changing position and transformation. Literature survey through books and research papers and demonstrative study with fashion collection photos were undertaken. The results wert as follows ; 1) Kinetic art, optical an, light kinetic art and technology art such as video and computer art have adopted 'movement' element in their work. 2) The plasticities of 'movement' fine arts were identified as mutual penetration, increase of visibility, use of non-traditional materials and dynamism. The internal meanings were identified as expansion of aesthetic experience and the concept of fine art, optimistic attitude on technology, spectator participation and integration of art and life. 3) The 'movement' expression in modern fashion was distinctively found in 1910s-20s(avant-garde fashion), 1960s (kinetic and optical art fashion) and mid 1990s to 2004 (techno-cyber fashion). 4) The plasticities of the 'movement' expression in modern fashion were identified as non-definition, use of non-traditional materials, dynamism. The internal meanings were identified as expansion of aesthetic experience and the concept of dress, optimistic attitude on technology, playfulness through participation. In conclusion, the expression of 'movement' in modern fashion has optimistic viewpoint on the development of modern society and is one of the interesting design points which will be pursued in the fellowing years.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 2002

This paper is to study pertinent consumer evaluations and preferences of fashion depending upon human sensibility. Focus is placed on quantifying consumer's sensibility through the sensibility analysis of men's fashion. The subject are 227 male and female university students of who take the course of "Modern Life and Fashion" and "Understanding of Colors" in the OCU Cyber University. Data has been collected by survey method and subsequently analyzed and interpreted. To measure consumer's consuming sensibility, G-Sensibility tool developed by 'Fuji Central Institute' has been employed. The results of the analysis of ANOVA and MANOVA show significant differences among the following 5 styles: Active style G2, Open-minded style of G-3, Mania style of G4, Sensitive and emotional style of G5. According to ${\chi}^2$ test, the results show that the distinction of sex and their interests in fashion are significant different. The evaluation of men's fashion, according to Multi-dimensional test, shows a variety of differences according gender and G sensibility styles. These varied distinctions are illustrated statistical in Picture 1, Picture 2, Picture 3, Picture 4, Picture 8, and picture 10. Based art the results, a follow-up study to develop the case study and the apply it's results are recommended to produce products placed in the market.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.39-56
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• 2004

At the outset, surrealism starts from pure art, but surrealism has greatly influenced commercial art and fashion circles, more so than any other genre of art. The critical thinking methods of surrealism and its mode of expression continues to influence fashion theory extensively. Even now, surrealism may be found in the designs presented in fashion circles and is still expected for future lines. Surrealism in modern fashion has been reborn, newly integrated and transformed, based on the features of Surrealism paintings. The characteristics of its forms can be found in a combination of modern material, modern design and new skills and the classical items : bodyform molding context of architecture, experimental and sex-appealing of body. Expression was made by borrowing natural motives and recreating natural fabrics while the existing typical idea about clothes was destructed, with the boundary of patterns changed. Expression was also made by mixing items, uniting future images, and using up-to-date functional techniques. This study is significant that up-to-date technological culture expands cyber-space and increases surrealistic expressions by combined heterogeneous materials, thus arousing much interest. The purpose of this study is to determine interrelationship between how surrealism developed and what formative properties those clothes affected by surrealism obtained in the 1990s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.1 no.1 s.1
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• pp.11-26
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• 2003

It is an important means of expressing oneself and is affected by the social and cultural environment, too. People are creating another new lower culture, it's Sub Culture, that is, their own unique new fashion through the coordination status of a lower culture and its components to reveal the visual symbol of such garments and body decorations most clearly. The Punk formed as an reaction to 1960's hippie appeared as the most unpleasant image to the established generations with their ultimate resisting action and new aesthetic-consciousness. Their coordination by the use of the disorder and stimulative tool which gives abhorrence appears again as Cyber Punk being influenced by optical art and multimedia in '90s. It can be seen that the form of lower culture mentioned above became a storehouse of new fashion creation through the most nuclear role of lower culture and the unique characteristic coordination by age and that each lower culture fashion can become a style icon of new fashion through free coordination.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.3 s.93
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• pp.122-135
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to classify achromatic color images adopted by contemporary fashion design in order to analyze the links between achromatic color images and fashion images. To this end, the study on the images of achromatic colors of White, grey, and black was conducted by reviewing related documents. In order to analyze the image factors affecting contemporary fashion design, the documents related to fashion history were consulted and in the case of fashion design factors and images, fashion looks using achromatic color as a main theme were referred. The results of this study are as follows : 1. An achromatic color is cold, calm and plain as well as modern. At the same time, it is abstinent and solemn so the color has been mainly used as religious garment. 2. An achromatic color used in apparels has been influenced by the developments of culture, art, society, ideology, politics, economy, science and technology. Black dress was introduced by Art Deco colors, little black dress by feminism, white by the popularity of sports, black becomes more popular by nihilistic beat and punk generations, moon look and cyber punk look were introduced for the advancement of science. Other apparel looks using the color are modern look, feminine look, futuristic look, mannish look, sportive look, and avant-garde look.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.171-183
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• 2014

In general, the idea of fun is understood to be associated with interesting things, playfulnesses, joy, pleasure, etc. The "fun culture," which seeks enjoyment and pleasure through life, is a characteristic of elements observed in today's society and culture. This exerts a powerful impacts on the business operation, marketing, and product manufacturing. Moreover, it is accepted as one of remarkable phenomena representing the changing trends of fashion in the 21st century. The objectives of this study were to analyze and categorize the fun motifs observed in fashion designer Walter Van Beirendonck 's collections, to examine their formative characteristics, and to establish academic approaches and analytic framework in studying the fun phenomenon emerging in fashion. As to research methods, this study laid a theoretical ground by reviewing the related literature and previous studies, and conducted a positive case study using the data on Walter Van Beirendonck's collections and exhibitions. According to the results of this study, the fun motifs represented in Walter Van Beirendonck's collections are largely categorized into "deviation from rules," "humorous and obscene graphic images," "introduction and transformation of heterogeneous elements," "women with male gender' etc. On the other side of Walter Van Beirendonck's fashion are sex, sexual humors, sexuality, fetishism, love, form, body, language, social phenomena, harmony between nature and life, consumerism, race, shamanism, tribal rituals, nation, cultural collision, transcendent things, science fictions, cyber Space, dream, alien, future, fairytale, fantasy etc. which are expressed by using fun motifs. Moreover, these themes are led to masculinity and fantasy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.149-167
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• 2001

Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.14-26
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• 2009

This study is to investigate makeup shown in fashion collections of Christian Dior based on semiotical theory of Morris. Morris's theory developed from semiotics of Peirce composed of syntactics, semantics and pragmatics. Therefore, in the case of analysis of fashion makeup, syntactics investigates signs of forms, colors, textures and materials of makeup, semantics finds out meanings of the signs of syntactics and pragmatics analyzes aesthetic characteristics which the signs of syntactics and the meanings of semantics symbolize. Fashion makeup in Christian Dior Collections were expressed experimentalism sign, multi-culture sign and popularity sign. Experimentalism signs were expressed with graphic makeup and cyber techno makeup and multi-culture signs were done with ethnic make up and retro makeup. In addition, goth make up and hitch makeup showed popularity signs. This study found that the three types of signs were considered to reflect aesthetics of the contemporary fashion. Also, this study could conclude that fashion makeup was able to be interpreted by Morris' semiotics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.13-25
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the concept and characteristics of 'grotesque,' examine the aesthetic characteristics of grotesque reflected in arts and dress, and modern fashion. The findings are as follows: 1) Grotesque indicates unnatural, unpleasant, and exaggerated that it upsets or shocks person. The characteristics of grotesque include terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust. 2) The grotesque art represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by disordered form, nonnatural things, evil world, unorthodox methods, unrealistic image, strange dreamland. 3) The grotesque dress represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by exaggerated silhouette, exaggerated adornment, excessive decoration, incroyables, using exaggerated silhouette, crinoline silhouette, bustle silhouette, surrealist style, extraordinary materials, glam rock style, unique silhouette, cyber look. 3) Terror was implied in the punk look suits of Junya Watanabe, and exaggerated outers of Viktor & Rolf. Abnormality was shown in the atypical suit of John Galliano, Junya Watanabe's dress decorated with the extreme ruff, Thom Browne's suit of abnormal proportion. Unreality was reflected in the architectural dress of Gareth Pugh, Mermaid dress of Giles, the surreal suit of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Amusement was represented in the amusing suit of Gareth Pugh, John Galliano's dress of sexual perversion. Disgust was reflected in the decadent dress of Thierry Mugler, Undercove's suit, and the ensemble of shocking details.