• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.54-66
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• 2016

This paper examines the transition of the Hungarian men's costume. Transition of the Hungarian men's costume can be divided into pre-eighteenth century, eighteenth century, and since the nineteenth century. Hungarian costume was derived from the Magyar who settled in Hungary in the ninth century. Hungry had begun to accept Western culture in the tenth century, so when the prototype of Hungarian costume was completed, it consisted of Dolman, Mente, pants, and boots combining traditional Magyar style with Western European style. In particular, Dolman shows the uniqueness of the Hungarian men's costume; it has a high, stand-up collar in the back center, closes on the left, has a right front plate with a diagonal cut at the waist, and a wide front closure. In the eighteenth century, Hungarian men's costumes played an important role in displaying national pride while living under the oppression of the Habsburg Empire. In particular, Dolman was worn as a uniform at the battle of independence (1703~1710). This dress of male courtiers became the distinctive style of the eighteenth century and then became the basic style of men's costumes. Since the nineteenth century, Hungarian men's costumes have acted as an means to promote the national consciousness of Hungary through the Citizen Revolution (1848), the War of Independence (1849), and the formation of the Dual Empire (1867). Looking at evolution of the Hungarian men's dress style, it reveals that resistance and struggles against other nations, a history of aggression, and living under oppressed are factors that impact on important clothing transitions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.290-303
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• 2010

In this research, I compared and analyzed the 'factors of style' that expresses and visualizes the 'characteristics of characters' and the characters from three movies each that was filmed with Kang Ho Song and Keong Ku Seol who acted in many movies both. As the result, for the factors for actors' makeup design, since they have limited choices of textures, colors, and the range of changes, changing the tone of skin to light to dark implied the images of characteristics. Somewhat dark skin tone that was like tanned skin expressed the life style of the character who works for an active profession not for an intellectual position. For the factors of hair style, medium sized wavy hair that goes straight down forehead expressed the character's familiar and informal personality while short cut sized all back style hair expressed confidence, sociality, and logical personality of the character. The actors' costume was important to express the characteristics of characters such as changes of their mind, especially the costumes delivered symbolic meanings of the role of their social class, profession, and their financial state. In addition, there were common factors to create and design a character in terms of the changes of the actors' body shape; when the actor acted the character who has conflicts inside and sarcastic personality, they lost weight on purpose while they gained weight and made a barrel shaped body to act the character who is positive in every occasion and does not realize the real world or who is greed.

• FLOWER RESEARCH JOURNAL
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.118-123
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• 2008

For effective production of interspecific hybrids of Lilium and valuable new cultivars, we used Lilium Asiatic hybrid 'Tiny Ghost' as the female parent, and Oriental group, and Longiflorum group and Martagon as the male parents. Percentage pollen germination in Oriental hybrid 'Sorbonne' was the highest with 64%. As results of using normal style pollination and cut style pollination methods, all seed sets were formed in normal style pollinated treatment, except in 'Aktiva'. Pollen germination percent of Longiflorum hybrid 'Norina' was higher than that 'Gelria'. However, all crossings using 'Norina' failed to set seeds. Corresponding fertilization ratio was different from genetic compatibility, even in the same group. From the crossing using 'Aktiva' as the male parent one bulb was obtained derived from one embryo sac. And using 'Sorbonne' as the male parent, one plantlet was obtained after four ovule cultures. Crossing using 'Gelria' as the male parent five embryos, 15 embryo sacs, and seven ovules per one ovary were obtained. Among them, 18 plantlets germinated, with the germination percent of 66.7%. Crossings using L. hansonii, Martagon group, as the male parent resulted in 40% germination from five ovules.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.59-78
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• 2005

This study aims to know the deferences of hair fashion feeling group in accordance with hair styling activities, general characteristics, life styles objecting to capital area university women students and aid to hair fashion design. So the results are as belows. 1. Frequency Analysis of Categories A. Hair fashion feeling - Natural, sexy, romantic pretty, sophisticate, ethnic are 90% in total hair fashion feeling variables in sequence of frequency, so it can be said these are in vogue. B. Hair styling activities - The objections visit the hair salon once 1-2months, spend about 42,000 won a month, perform cut & wave perm to sentimental reasens & hair style changes, determine the hair style well coordinated in her image and managed easily. In her home, they manage her hair style 12 minutes a day, spend 17,000 won to buy hair aids, do hair blow dry or pin or pony tail mainly in the morning, scarcely use the hair styling aids but if use, essence or wax mainly. And the degree of interest to hair style is high. C. General Characteristics - The objections's average age is 21.1, residence is seoul kangnam 23.3%, seoul kangbook 18.4%, other capital areas 58.4%, the degree of education is university students 94.9%, graduated student 5.1%, marriage is married 96%, unmarried 2.8%, family who live with is married are mainly man & woman and living with father & mother in low in man's, unmarried are mainly live alone & nuclear family, personal expenses a month is 300,000 won in average, income of home is 4,000,000 won a month. D. Life style - The objections are not in interest of physical exercises but if are, do yoga & health, like drama & comedies program, watch TV or meet friend in leisure time, like balad & dance music, fashion magazine, meet friend in cafe or college. 2. Relationship of hair fashion feeling & other variables Using the $x^2$-test, level p<0.05, Hair styling activities(frequency of hair salon coming in and out, ordinary time representing hair style, preferred hair styling aids, the amount of hair style interest), General Characteristics(age), Life style(leisure time) variables are meaningful.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.849-865
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• 2009

This research is a study of fashion design that applied formative features of formal beauty of architecture into clothing design; we focused on Gaudi's architectural style as well as Art Nouveau style that became popular from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century. We noted that in general the simple and flat features of cloth impose a limitation on the expression of formal features in clothing design, but a unique diversity of designs can be achieved, evoking a sense of freshness by an ideal combination of flat patterns and draping. The aim of this research is to present a possibility of extending the sphere of design expression by creating three-dimensional clothes with pattern-cutting skills and applications of three-dimensional patterns as well as flat patterns found in Gaudi's works of architecture that are distinguished in curvaceousness and formal beauty. As for the research method, we reviewed previous studies by making a close review of books, papers, the pictures and web sites related to this topic. We made our clothes on the basis of this theoretical consideration. We found the following points. First, by presenting a work of fashion inspired by architectural designs, we realized that formal beauty in architect can become a motive for clothing design in a broad scale by noting the formal images, decoration details, and formative features of architectural works. Second, the characteristic lines of Gaudi's architecture are suitable to be adapted for expressing the detailed lines of decoration in clothes. Third, we can express formative beauty in clothes by highlighting the variation of shapes and lines through various attempts of change in background pattern, even though there is a limitation in the availability of cloth material because we must choose pieces of cloth with right texture and thickness that can be cut and sewn appropriately to express formative beauty. Fourth, we confirmed that it was possible to create unique formative designs by a creative application of both flat and three-dimensional cutting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.413-419
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• 2006

This study was performed to analyze the wearing practice and the purchasing characteristics of jeans in order to offer basic data to produce superior jeans made of denim with small flexibility and to improve the wearing comfort. The questionnaire were 236 Korean women from the age of 10th to 50th. For data analysis, descriptive analysis and crosstabs were used. The results were as follows, in the purchasing characteristics, when the women of 10th to 30th decided to purchase jeans they considered fashion, design and price rather than wearing comfort. But the women of 40th to 50th considered that wearing comfort is the most important factor. The 10th is found the best preferred jean is wide straight style, the 20th is straight style, the 30th is boots cut style and the 40th to 50th is straight style. In wearing practice, there was a difference among age groups on the region that felt uncomfortable when wearing jeans. As the age increases, the abdomen size also increases. Most people answered that they mend jeans after purchase for length, without any relation with age. The reason why consumers prefer jeans with middle length between the crotch and waist and also purchase jeans with a short length is because they look refined and neat. This informs us that the short length between the crotch and waist does not match with ease and comfort, which are the images of jeans in the past. Recently premium jean brands are competing to show Low Rise Jeans, which seems like a Premium Jean=Low Rise Jean formula is created. Some manufacture companies are recklessly copying foreign designs that does not fit Korean's body shape. However, as mentioned in this study results, there is a clear difference between designs that they think consider as aesthetic and functional. Therefore, it is considered necessary for developing designs for jeans that can satisfy both aesthetic appreciation and functions for Korean consumer's body shape and each age group.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.781-788
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• 2010

To work in the fashion industry which has entered the digital age, and in specialization and high-industrialization age, one needs to attain various skills required for the qualifications of a fashion specialist. For these, qualification certificate systems are enacted to nurture specialized technical personnel, and among these, a jacket pattern is selected from the practical examination of Western-style dress skill prepared for nurturing specialist who can design, cut, and sew women's clothing, to be compared and analyzed against the existing printed practical textbooks, technical books of making clothes which used as college textbooks, and local documents of theoretical study documents. The methodology of the research is to select 8 samples for the study, analyze the identity with the design, and then cut applying the identical dimensions and compare the measurements, and make the clothes using each cutting methods, and inspect to find the consistency with the design and made statistical analysis. As a result, we designed and made research patterns, and suggested a jacket pattern design to patterns simply that suits the design fast.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.2 s.24
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• pp.13-21
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• 1987

Nowadays, the amount used carpets are on the increase, according to the improvement of life-style. The pleasantness of carpet is caused by the properties of pile, because the most carpets are made pile fabric. For that reason, a study on the compressional properties of carpet is very important issue. This study has been carried out to investigate the differences of compressional properties in various acrylic carpets which were Cut, Tufted, Jacquard and Shag. Each acrylic carpets was transformed to 4, 6, 8 mm of pile height, as results of transformation, we could get the pressure-thickness curve and pressure-deformation curve. The results are summarized as follows. 1. Rate of compression increases, compressive resistance and compressive elasticity decr-eases, as pile height increases. 2. Regardless of pile height, compressive elasticity reached the limit in recovery period at about 10 minutes. 3. Work of compression increases, as pile height increases. 4. Work of compression decreases, as apparent density increases. 5, Cut-type carpet has the best cushion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.82-91
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the style of trousers of Koguryo(高句麗). Trousers of Koguryo were called Go(袴: trousers) and those had various forms according to the shape of gusset(dang, 糖), width and length of the trousers. Commonly the trousers that had worn by Koguryo people had gausset in those bottom not to be shown hip. The gausset was cut triangle or square so if a person wear the trouser with the triangular gausset, the trouser has a pointed hip. Sometimes the trousers had non pointed hips were dicovered in the wall-paintings of the Koguryo tombs, they are thought the trousers that had no gaussets or square one. And also there were another trousers that had wide/narrow legs and long/short legs. Trousers of wide legs were called Gwango(寬袴) and narrow legs Sego(細袴). Gwango(寬袴) grew wider over time and in the late age, the trousers were called Daegugo(大口袴) with wide ends were worn. Trousers were also decorated elaborately with patches on the edges, leg ties, vents, etc.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.59-71
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• 2011

As an exaggerated-shoulder becomes a growing trend women's clothing, the crescent shaped sleeve with parallel style lines in the arm hole is a highly used women's sleeve pattern. This study develops and provides an applicable method for making the crescent shaped power shoulder sleeve. An efficient basic method for making the 2 piece crescent shaped sleeve was developed and the sensory appearance test was carried out with experimental clothes. There are two principles for making the crescent shaped sleeve: having a style line in the sleeve and pasting part of the cut arm hole of the bodice to the sleeve. The latter would be more convenient for a 2 piece sleeve, mostly used for jackets. The crescent shaped sleeve used in power shoulder jackets should set the shoulder angle as you wish to extend and raise the shoulder point of the bodice and sleeve to the same height. For a stronger power shoulder image, a 3 piece sleeve has a better appearance. Also, the height of the shoulder has to be enhanced with a shoulder pad for a more stable sleeve.