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Estimation of the Latitude, the Gnomon's Length and Position About Sinbeop-Jipyeong-Ilgu in the Late of Joseon Dynasty

  • Mihn, Byeong-Hee;Lee, Yong Sam;Kim, Sang Hyuk;Choi, Won-Ho;Ham, Seon Young
    • Journal of Astronomy and Space Sciences
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    • v.34 no.2
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    • pp.161-170
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    • 2017
  • In this study, the characteristics of a horizontal sundial from the Joseon Dynasty were investigated. Korea's Treasure No. 840 (T840) is a Western-style horizontal sundial where hour-lines and solar-term-lines are engraved. The inscription of this sundial indicates that the latitude (altitude of the north celestial pole) is $37^{\circ}$ 39', but the gnomon is lost. In the present study, the latitude of the sundial and the length of the gnomon were estimated based only on the hour-lines and solar-term-lines of the horizontal sundial. When statistically calculated from the convergent point obtained by extending the hour-lines, the latitude of this sundial was $37^{\circ}$ $15^{\prime}{\pm}26^{\prime}$, which showed a 24' difference from the record of the inscription. When it was also assumed that a convergent point is changeable, the estimation of the sundial's latitude was found to be sensitive to the variation of this point. This study found that T840 used a vertical gnomon, that is, perpendicular to the horizontal plane, rather than an inclined triangular gnomon, and a horn-shaped mark like a vertical gnomon is cut on its surface. The length of the gnomon engraved on the artifact was 43.1 mm, and in the present study was statistically calculated as $43.7{\pm}0.7mm$. In addition, the position of the gnomon according to the original inscription and our calculation showed an error of 0.3 mm.

A Study on Korean Man's Head Ornaments in the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 남자(男子)의 수식(首飾) 연구(I))

  • Chang, Sook-Whan
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.99-116
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    • 2008
  • This study reviewed pertinent literature and examined relics of manggon(a headband worn to hold a man's topknot hair in place), donggot(a topknot pin), and chigwan(a topknot cover). Before the modernized short hair style, wearing a gat was an important custom. Therefore, manggon, which was used to hold a man's hair in place under the gat, was considered an essential part of the man's official dress code. Donggot is a pin that held the topknot hair in place. It was a must have for a married man, like the binyeo, a lod-like hairpin, for a married woman. Unlike gwanja, it had nothing to do with official rank, but materials were of a variety of materials, including jade and gold. The structure of the donggot was studied in three parts-head, neck and body. Major forms for the head include the mushroom, bean and ball. Bullet and half-cut bullet forms were also found. Forms for the neck include straight-neck and curved-neck. A neck with a belt around a double chin was also found. Forms for the body include the tetrahedron, octahedron and cylinder. The most popular form for silver and white bronze donggot heads was the mushroom, followed by bean and pile forms. Chigwan is also called chipogwan, chichoal, choalgyesogwan, noingwan and sangtugwan. In poetry it was called chichoal, and it used to be called taegogwan in the past as well. Chigwan was so small that it managed to hold a topknot. According to confucian custom in the Joseon period, by wearing chigwan, men didn't display their bare topknot even when they didn't dress up. When they went out, they wore another official hat over the chigwan.

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The Comparison of formative Characteristics Clothing in Fashion and Art to Wear.-focused on Art to Wear of Futurism in 1910~1930 (유행의상과 예술의상의 조형적 특성 비교-미래주의 예술의상을 중심으로-)

  • 양취경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.38
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    • pp.51-72
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    • 1998
  • Futurists objected the existent style, that is the conventional fashion, and took part in these disciplines of fashion to make clothes the instruments being able to represent the individuality. Giacomo Balla and fortunato Depero, pain-ters who in 1915 were to work with Diaghilev's company, were the first to see clothing as a dynamic interfaced between th body and the atmosphere, between physical gestures and the urban context, which could be translated into encounters between forms and colours, volumes and architecture. For them, clothing began to exist as an object and an event, something to be removed from a mainly static conception and made mobile, active. The interaction between movement and clothing was based on the relativity of perception : the appearance and disappearance of the body produced points without dimension or duration which served, as Balla wrote in the Futurist Mnaifesto of Men's Clothing to“renew incessantly the enjoyment and impetuous movement of the body”. The historical achievement in the effort for the reformation of Futurist, Art to Wear. First, for Futurist, clothing is removed from a static conception and focused on dynamics. Second, Balla used asymmetry in men's clothing. Moreover he supposed dynamic men's clothes by using optical intersection. Third, the after image of Chronophotograph represented rapidity. This rhythmic expression is the fore-runner in Optical and Kinetic Art of Visual Art. Fourth, Futurist emphasized flexibility in fashion. They aimed to create‘Clothing Machines’whose parts would interact to aceelerate the real and virtual, inner and outer movement of the human being. Fifth, the variety and short life of cutting skills and colors are focused and‘Fast Substance’in fashion is admitted by Futurists. Futurist concern with clothing was not lim-ited its appearance in terms of cut and colour. What important was also the way it appeared and disappeared according to fashion. It was a“fast substance”, able to reflect rapid, sudden changes of social and aesthetic taste. To reach to the aim of internationalization, Gesamtkunstwerk in our Art to Wear, it is extremely meaningful to examine art fashion which is created under the conception of Gesamtkunstwerk production of avang garde artist in the early 20th century and look at formative conscious of truth, goodess and beauty synthetically which they faced on their works of art.

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A Study on the art to wear of the Wiener Werkstaette (비인공방(Wiener Werkstaette)에 형성된 예술의상연구)

  • 양취경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.29
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    • pp.143-158
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    • 1996
  • It was the year of 1903 when avantgarde artists in Vienna gave a birth to the Wiener Werkstaette under the influence of Aesthetic Movement and Guild of Handicraft from England. This study is on the backgrounds of the birth of the Wiener Werkstaette its artis-tic motto and world-wide echo it provoked. This thesis goes back to the time when the decadent Wiener Secession shaped up refiewing the Reform Movement It also covers characteristics works of major members of the Wiener Werkstaette which were produced on the basis of the concept of Gesmtkunstwerk, The conclusion of this study is that : 1. Without losing its own specifc features various fields of formative arts were combinded together coherently and succeeded to realize the idealistic art that is the com-posite are 2. The Wiener Werkstaette was strongly opposed to the ready-made clothes which be-came popular as the society was Industrialized and commercialized. unlike those ready-to-wear clathes those members of the Wiener Werkstaette preferred to make each clothes with different mateirals and printed their own unique pattern designs. 3.As a results of close relationships between the Wiener Werkstaette and paul poiret 'Stu-dio Martine' was established in paris and new pattern deslhns were introduced by Raoul Dufy. 4. After the break-out of World War One cultural exchanges with other foreign countries were vuirtually cut off and the Wiener Werkstaette was disconnected from the influence of Parisl That was the motive for Wiener Werkstaette to start building up its unique artistic style with peculiar materials techniques and methods of productionl Those brisk and creative activities of the Wiener Werkstaette brought forth "the Golden perlod of 1920s" 5. Its historic design and ornamental pattern were assessed as a prelude to the Post-mod-ernism Since the late 1970s with the redis-covery of the culture of vienna in 1900s. the Art to wear which was created by the 'Wiener Werkstaette' but unfortunately tucked away by the Greate Depression and nationalism has been revaluated and studied. In Korea it was since 1985 when 'the art to wear' began to gain attention widely. It is urged that the theory of the 'Gesamtkunstwerk' should be also ac-cepted and shared earnestly.

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The Aesthetic Qualities Featured in Vivienne Westwood's Works (비비안 웨스트우드(Vivienne Westwood)의 작품세계와 미적특성)

  • 염혜정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.37
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    • pp.71-88
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    • 1998
  • This study will analyze the aesthetic qual-ities revealed in the work of Vivienne Wes-twood in order to gain an understanding of the development process and uniqueness of modern avant-garde fashion. Westwood gained worldwide recognition in the 1970s as the Punk movement emerged in London. Although her works have often been described as decadent and anti-establishment, her anarchic view of fashion has had a considerable influence on other designers, both in England and around the world. Vivienne Westwood's works can be divided into three periods. In the first period(1971∼78). Westwood design demonstrated elements which were variations of the subcultural Punk style. The noteworthy designs of this period included ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, and fetishist accoutrements. In the second period(1979∼83), her designs expressed elements from ethnic and primitive tribal societies through the 'Pirate', 'Savages', 'Buffalo Girls', 'Witches' collections, which inspired New Romanticism movement. In the third period (1985∼ ), through works such as 'Mini-Crini'collection, her works identified elements from the old west and used materials such as crinoline and Harris tweed and contemporized them by rearranging the innovative technique. In the end the news synthesis helped formulate new ideas. The aesthetic qualities in Vivienne Wes-twood's works can bed identified with the following themes : Punkature, Erotic Intelligent-sia, Anarchic Collage. First, within Punkature, Westwood's ideas are at the forefront as her impact on the cut of clothes and creative detailing have been considerable. Also, while her ideas can be extreme, her clothes are wear-able, resulting in the synthesis of Punk and couture. Second, as Erotic Intelligentsia, Vivienne Westwood does not present sexuality as a straight forward attribute that fashion so often tends to do, but instead as a matter for inquiry, exploration and debate. She asserts that sexuality is always an interplay between the polarities of masculine and feminine, of dress and undress. Third, as Anarchic Collage, she has taken, juxtaposed, and transformed objects and symbols from dominant culture, like every modern subversive movement from Dada to Punk. She has continued this form of anarchic collage, mixing styles from various times and places, taking them out of their traditional context. From thiss viewpoint, Vivienne Westwood's works can be considered to be made up of past themes merged with is contemporary. The usage of contrasting elements such as Punk and couture to communicate her ideas visually or technically.

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Study on the Characteristics of Each Period to Identify the Women's Costume of the Joseon Dynasty. - Based on the Excavated Costumes from $15^{th}$ to $18^{th}$ Century - (조선시대 여자복식 감정을 위한 각 시대별 특징 연구 - 15세기-18세기 출토복식을 중심으로 -)

  • Song, Mi-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.5
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    • pp.71-86
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    • 2008
  • The Purpose of this article is to study the excavated women's costume of the Joseon Dynasty, and to help identify the period of those costumes with the time of the burial unknown. The excavated women's costume is concentrated in 16th to 17th century, and the reason is due to the method of the burial. The characteristics of costumes from each period is as follows. The special features about 15th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong(round-collared jacket), Dae-gum style shirt(shirt with the squared collar facing each other), and skirt with horizontal dart. The 16th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong, wide Jegori with various length, skirt with horizontal dart, skirt with its hem folded, and pants with shoulder strap. In the 17th century, the formal dress changes to Won-sam from Dan-ryeong. The collar changes from the squared shape to the cut Dang-ko collar, and the skirt with its hem folded is not seen after the early 17th century. The long jacket changes to Dang-ui and gets settled, and the clothes becomes smaller and tighter. In the 18th century, the women's formal dress gets settled to Won-sam and Dang-ui, and the pants with shoulder strap is no longer seen. Jegori becomes shorter and smaller compared to those from the 17th century, and again gets wider and bigger in the late 18th century, and it leads to the change of making a big sized shroud.

A Research on the Exchange of Costume Culture between Netherlands and Japan through 17-18 Century Dutch East India Company (17~18세기 동인도회사를 통한 네덜란드와 일본의 복식문화교류 연구)

  • Kim, Myung-Eun;Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.4
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    • pp.109-123
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    • 2015
  • The object of this research is to take a bilateral look into cultural exchanges of the Netherlands and Japan through the East India Company and thereby improve the general understanding in regards to the exchanges of costume cultures between the East and the West. The study conducted qualitative analyses on features of contemporary costumes of the Netherlands and Japan from 1602 to 1799 by investigating the secondary sources, such as the histories of costumes, arts, and literature. The results are as follows; the traditional sleeves of the Japanese Kimono were basically cut out in a straight line. However due to the growing popularity of the kimono home gown in Europe, the producers of the kimono in India as well as several other European countries modified them into western-style sleeves. Regarding the costumes of the Netherlands, which were introduced to Japan, the study found that Japan imported Dutch fabrics, instead of specific clothing items. In Japan, costume controls and anti-conspicuous consumption regulations among social classes including a closed-door policy had negative effects on both developments and exchanges of costumes of the country. However, when it comes to the Jinbaori, a costume for ruling classes, Japan was open to using fabrics, patterns and designs of the West. In light of what have been discussed so far, the study confirmed that the costume exchanges between the two countries started long after their first business of the general cultural exchanges. Though it is clear that the advancements in the natural sciences that the Japanese made can be attributed to the West, Japan was one of the nations that impacted the costume cultures in Europe.

A Study on the Aesthetic Characteristics in Dandy's Costume (댄디 복식(服飾)에 나타난 미적(美的) 특성(特性)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Lee, Mi-Sook;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.3 no.3
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    • pp.39-48
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study is to examine closely the aesthetic characteristics featured in dandy's costume. Dandy was term used on for a man excessively fond of and overly concerned with clothes, exemplified by Beau Brummell, Lord Byron, and count d'Orsay, who greatly in gluenced men's fashions in England and France. In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century George Brummell, the prototype of the dandy, made upper-class English country clothes, especially riding clothes, into the height of men's fashion in the city. In the early 1800s the alterations he made, particularly with regard to fit and cut, established these as the critical signifiers in men's dress. Brummell's style, particularly for day, was essentially restrained and disciplined, and set a standard for sober discretion, appropriateness and taste which governed men's clothing until well into the twentieth century. The aesthetic characteristics expressed in dandy's dress are the aristocratic superiority of mind, the restrained beauty in absolute simplicity, and the pursuit of the individual beauty. Brummell's kind of dandyism instigated the idea of establishing a new kind of aritocracy, an aritocracy based on talent. Over the years this kind of cultural and social coup has been played out in different ways but has remained, like the twentieth-century concept of the avant-garde, a fundamentally male preserve. He advocated unobtrusive darkblue fitted coats, cream-colored trousers, elaborately tied cravats, absence of showy fabrics or excessive decoration, and impeccable grooming. The status of the perfectly tied cravat as the hallmark of genteel elegance, as the last keystone of Fashion's arch, had been established by Beau Brummell.

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Shear Performance of Hybrid Post and Beam Wall System Infilled with Structural Insulation Panel (SIP)

  • Shim, Kug-Bo;Hwang, Kweon-Hwan;Park, Joo-Saeng;Park, Moon-Jae
    • Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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    • v.38 no.5
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    • pp.405-413
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    • 2010
  • A hybrid post and beam shear wall system with structural insulation panel (SIP) infill was developed as a part of a green home 'Han-green' project through post and beam construction for contemporary life style. This project is on-going at the Korea Forest Research Institute to develop a new building system which improves Korean traditional wet-type building system and stimulates industrialized wood construction practice with pre-cut system. Compared to the traditional wet-type infill wall components, the hybrid wall system has benefits, such as, higher structural capacity, better thermal insulation performance, and shorter construction term due to the dry-type construction. To build up the hybrid wall system, in previous, SIP infill wall components can be manufactured at factory, and then inserted and nailed with helically threaded nails into the post and beam members at site. Shear performance of the hybrid wall system was evaluated through horizontal shear tests. The SIP hybrid wall system showed higher maximum shear strength, initial stiffness, ductility, yield strength, specified strength, and the specified allowable strength than those of post and beam with light-frame wall system. In addition to this, the hybrid wall system can provide speedy construction and structural and functional advantages including energy efficiency in the building system.

A Study on the Characteristics and Design Development of Upcycled Denim Fashion (업사이클 데님 패션의 특성 및 디자인 개발 연구)

  • Lee, Yeonji;Um, Sohee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.22 no.2
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    • pp.51-60
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    • 2018
  • This research focuses on the development of upcycled denim fashion designs, whichis a more specific category within general upcycled fashion design. Characteristics of upcycled fashion design, which has been identified previously by researchers, include the following traits: environmentality, uniqueness, aesthetic appeal, availability, convertibility, and deconstructivity. The expression principles include recycling, substitution, recombination, and reduction. The result of the analysis of the denim fashion design characteristics, which is based on the theoretical analysis, has found. The external expression pattern consists of the deconstruction and reconstitution of materials, the avant-garde style and convertibility, the ability to mix and match materials and techniques, the production of zero waste, and the use of layering. The expression techniques used included decomposition, depaysement, weaving, cut-off, collage, assemblage, overlapping, connecting, attaching, and stitching. The inner meanings were identified as economicality through recycling, convertibility through rearranging, and the rarity and value of hand-made products. The result of the research applying the identified characteristics are as follows. First, developing and creating designs using modified denim and sub-materials with various expression patterns and techniques could provide completely new images unlike existing denim products. Second, modifying the details while maintaining the basic format of denim clothing could provide unique and new possibilities for upcycled denim fashion design. Third, environment-friendly models with creative designs were developed by recycling used denim materials. This reduced waste and energy while maximizing the use of resources. This study expects contribute to upcycled fashion design research by recognizing the unique characteristics and value of denim material.