• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.886-898
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• 2013

This study explores the types, shapes and changes of the court dance garments of mudong[child court dancer] and yeoryeong[female court dancer] for court dances such as Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang, and Choehwamu, and the arrangement of colors in their garments. The conclusion of the study is as follows: First, the type of garments of mudong varied according to the type of dance, role of mudong and passage of time. In all four jeongjae's, hongpo[red robe] and baekjilheukseonjungdaneui[white under garment trimmed in black] were commonly found. Second, the dress of yeoryeong in the Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang and Choehwamu was that of other yeoryeong, which was basically comprised of hwagwan[flower headdress], hwangchosam[yellow robe], hongchosang[red skirt] and sudae[embroidered belt]. Third, the color schemes of the court dance garments used in Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang and Choehwamu revealed that the color arrangement of sangsaeng [mutual generation] of the Ohaeng[Five Elements] scheme were favored in the garments of mudong and yeoryeong. The dress of mudong is characterized by sangsaeng between top and bottom, and between total and part, while the color scheme of the outer and inner was sanggeuk[mutual overcoming]. As for yeoryeong, the color arrangement was of sangsaeng in top and bottom, outer and inner, and total and part, but in the five-colored hansam[sleeve extension], both sangsaeng and sanggeuk were found.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.56-68
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• 2013

A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.87-100
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• 2007

In the Joseon Dynasty, a Court Ladies' full dress was Slanted by the Ming Dynasty. Since the Ming Dynasty had declined, a Court Ladies' full dress, Jeok-ui began to be made by the Joseon Dynasty. It was based on the Chinese Court Ladies' full dress, Desam, but it became Joseon's own style, which was different from the Chinese one. The formula of Jeok-ui was completed in the time of King Yongjo. Since then, Jeok-ui for big ceremonies was called Bub-bok. It was recorded on the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon. The color of Jeok-ui was departmentalized for the wearer; red one for the Queen, bluish black one for the Crown Princess, and purple one for the Queen mother. There were some differences between Jeok-ui for feasts and for big ceremonies. In the case of Jeok-ui for big ceremonies, the pattern of Hyung-bae for the Queen was a dragon with five claws, and for the Crown Princess, a dragon with four claws. On the other hand, in the case of Jeok-ui for feasts, the pattern of Hyung-bae was phoenixes for the Queen, Crown Princess and the Queen mother. The number of embroidered round badges, which were attached to Jeok-ui, was 51 for big ceremonies, and 36 for feasts. The skirt for big ceremonies was a Jeonang-ut-chima with dragons pattern for the Queen, and phoenixes for the Crown Princess. The Queen's skirt for feasts was a Jeonang-ut-chima with phoenixes pattern, and the Queen mother's also. The Crown Princess' was a double skirt with phoenixes pattern. The pearls were not decorated on the shoes for big ceremonies, but shoes for feasts had six big pearls fer decoration. When the royal woman wore Jeok-ui for big ceremonies, it was prepared for Kyu, Pe-ok and belt with jade. But those were not necessary for Jeok-ui for feasts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.168-176
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• 2006

The court dancing suit, so-called 'Jeongjae suit', has been worn by court dancers on the occasion of the royal court's feasts or festivals such as auspicious events of a country, court banquets, and parties or receptions for national guests from foreign countries. The court dancing suits are divided into two styles; Dangak-Jeongjae style and Hyangak-Jeongjae style, depending on dancing styles. This study examined the change of the dancing suits of Hyangak-Jeongjae styles created in the latter period of Joseon Dynasty, such as Bosangmu, Cheomsumu, Heoncheonhwa, and discussed the thought of EumYang-Ohaeng(the cosmic dual forces and the five elements) that the colors of the court dancing suits imply. Generally, in the dancing suits of Bosangmu, Cheomsumu, and Heoncheonhwa, the color expression focused on the main stream of red, blue, yellow, white and black. The colors were mainly expressed in harmony between upper garments and under garments, outer garments and inner garments, a simple dress and its decorations. Especially, in the dancing suits of Heoncheonhwa, the purple color symbolized the auspiciousness of the Purple Palace where the God lives.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.71-80
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• 1977

From the period of King Tae-Jong up to the third year of King In-Jo, the bestowal system for queen's court dresses from the Myeong Dynasty was one which was much lower than that of China. This system was applied to the queens' court dresses in the early Yi Dynasty. The pheasant's pattern on Jeockwan and Hapee probably indicates that Daesam was possibly regarded as Jeockyoe. In fact, according to Kaeredogam, Jeockyoe was for the first time made in the third year of King Kwanghae, which is the oldest record on Jeockyoe and Daesam. At the age of King Seon-Jo, a new type of queen's clothing was taken as an inevitable result of Japanese Invasion. Jeockyoe system was gradually made ceremonious until the period of King Yeong-Jo through Kakhonjeongye and Kukjosokoryeycobo; it became that of Queen Myeong-Jo's in the end. The traditional Jeockyoe system might have been interblended with Daesam. Yeodae was queen's usual dress and its pattern was the same as that of every women's dresses at Court.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.13-23
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• 1986

We investigate several theories on how the cravate came into being and eventually evoved into the modern day necktie. Among the different possibilities, the most plausible case is the introduction of the neckwear by croatioan soldiers into France near the beginning of the seventeenth century. During seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, the beautiful costumes and extravagant embroideries using the expensive laces, were common oractices among the high society of the royal court, and the cravate evolved into a favorite ornament. While it was emerging as a beautiful part of man's dress in France and the continent, Charles II brought the cravate to England where it became the central part of the dandy's dress. The cravate became not only a part of dress but a subject for a solemn ceremony. George brummell was the most famous English dandy associated with this ritual and he is also credited as the father of modern men's dress. In england, Brummell became famous for his clean cravate was used as the expressionis of political opinions. They were san cravate, muscadins and incroyables, for example. The classic style of male dress in the nineteenth century was due to Brummell and the severe unadorned silhouette he started has changed very little to became the present day male dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.71-87
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• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.123-138
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• 2002

This study as one of a series of systematic studies about dancing costumes will compare the costumes of the 16th. 17th century with their normal style of dress. In brief. this study wants people to know about 16th, 17th century court dancing costumes and to understand the culture in the 16th.17th century. From the comparison between the court's dancing costume and the people's clothes, we could get the conclusion as follows. First, pourpoint. chemis, gown, chausses, etc. that people wore were used for the court's dancing costume. While people Pursued the beauty with the ample silhouette. there were used wrinkles. slits. and tailored oblique line-clothes that gave vitality. Second, silk. linen. brocade. etc. that were used for people's chemises were used for the dancing costume. The good quality and beautiful colors of the dancing costume. however. excelled than of the brilliant court's clothes and the people's clothes. Third. the hair style of dancers were very colorful. For example, there were many kinds of hats and furs, corals, etc. that were attached to them on the most of the long curly hair. In summary, for the court's dancing costume, the same type of clothes was used like the people's clothes. There, however, were differences. The slits, tailored oblique line-clothes and shortened skirt gave the activity. There were many decorations symbolizing the nobles' wealth and Power. Especially the use of the decoration of hair and other stake properties was an effective means for expression. The use of personified masks also contributed to the development of the court dance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.97-104
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• 1986

The change and development of costume are related to the cultural and socioeconomic factors. In the 18th century the mode of the women's costume in France was greatly influenced by the Rococo style. Elegance and exaggerated ornaments were the major characteristics of the woman's cos-tume in the Rococo period. The high hairdress and the widely hooped panier represented the typical Rococo fashion. From the second half of the 18th century onwards the aristocracy began to lose the battle with the bourgeoisie for political and economic power, and at the same time bourgeoisie fashion exerted an influence on court dress. The court fashion dominated the women's dress fashion in France up to the Revolution. Marie Antoinette, The Queen of Louis XVI, was one of the most influential fashion leaders in the lath century. The fashion, after attaining its highest point in 1770s, changed to a new direction in 1780s under Louis XVI. From that period onward the dimensions were smaller, hairdresses were not so high, and the trimming on the various garments was less liberal. In the mode, exaggeration was replaced by simplicity, and formality was replaced by functionalism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.103-112
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• 1981

In Koryo Dynasty, during the reign of uijong, Choe Yun-ui and others countries collected the royal orders of the Koryo kings and adopted the Tang institutions, and compiled 50 volumes of a book, called "Detailed Ceremonies of Old and New." Recording about clothing, with a special focus on dress and its ornaments of armed vassals, when they attend the king while he is conducting his business. 1) As for the headgear's were the Pokdu, Moja, Kwan, Tumo (official hat to be worn with armors) and Malye (for protection against the cold). There were II kinds of headgear's name in all. 2) As for the clothes, (1) Kongbok (formal costume) (2) Dress, there were 34 kinds of clothes name differented by (i) flowerage on clothes (ii) size of sleeves (iii) color of clothes (iv) fabrics (v) the belt used with the dress. Others were; (3) Baeja (4) Hansam, (5) Poto, and (6) Armor. 3) As for colors of clothes, there were (i) Purple, (ii) Red(Scarlet), (iii) Green, (iv) Blue, (v) Yellow, (vi) Black and (vii) White. 4) As for materials, there were (i) Kum, Ra, Sa (all kinds of silk), (ii) Iron and (iii) Leather. 5) For belts, there were (i) Sockdae, (ii) Hongjung, (iii) Kayeundae, (iv) Dongdokum-dae, (v) Jojung and (vi) Dongshimsokdae.