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A Study on the Revision and the Loss of National Identity of Western-styled Court Costume in the Daehan Empire (대한제국기 서구식 문관 대례복 제도의 개정과 국가정체성 상실)

  • Lee, Kyung-Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.4
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    • pp.103-116
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the revision of the western-styled court costume in the Daehan Empire. For this purpose, 1) historical documents were reviewed, 2) one set of the court costume of Chigimgwan and another set of the court costume of Juimgwan were probed, 3) the photos of people wearing court costume were analyzed. The results of this study are as follows. First, the $14^{th}$ Imperial order of "official costume statute" had been revised in 1904, 1905 and 1907 through official gazettes. The last version of official costume statute enacted the more detail than the first rule. Second, the $15^{th}$ Imperial order of "official costume rules" had been revised in 1904, 1905, and transformed into official costume rules reform on $12^{th}$ Dec., 1906. The revision in 1905 made gold embroidery of court costume more simple than the first rule. The form of court costume was totally revised by change of the shape of adjusting on the top in the revised rule of 1906. Third, the revision in 1905 was actually manufactured and worn by the people because it can be confirmed in the relics of the court costume of $2^{nd}$ Chigimgwan in Yonsei University Museum, and the court costume of juimgwan in Kwangju Municipal Folk Museum. The relics made by the revision in 1906 had not been reported until now, but they can be confirmed in the photos left. Fourth, the sovereignity of the Daehan Empire was actually lost by $22^{th}$ Imperial family order which urged the servant having the title of nobility of Japan to wear the court costume of Japan. Therefore, the endeavor of the Daehan Empire which wanted to establish and develop the costume system of modern independent nation was discontinued.

A Study on Court Ladies' tasks and Costume in the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 궁녀의 직무와 복식에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Soh-Hyeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.10
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    • pp.55-71
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    • 2011
  • Court ladies' tasks were largely divided into two. First, if there is a royal family event, such as the royal family's wedding or feast, they followed the rules and regulations of work division that was defined in "Gyeonggukdaejeon". Secondly, during normal days, they were divided into Jimil (至密), Chimbang (針房), Subang (繡房), Sesugan (洗手間), Saenggwabang (生果房), Naesojubang (內燒廚房), and Oesojubang (外燒廚房) and took charge of female work that was needed daily at the palace including serving, cooking, laundry, needlework, embroidery, cleaning, and nurturing. This organization was operated by different palaces such as the daejeon(king's palace), daebijeon(queen dowager's palace), junggungjeon(queen's palace), or sejagung(prince's palace). Court ladies were selected among female slaves of the government office or naesusa(a ministry of royal household properties). Although commoners were forbidden to be selected, they sometimes became court ladies voluntarily for financial reasons or because of the will of their parents. Court ladies had different appearances according to the division they belonged to. The court girls of Jimil, Chimbang, and Subang wore saeangmeori while court girls from other places had braided hairstyles. At Jimil, they wore all different kinds of chima(skirt) and jeogori(jacket). Usually, court ladies wore navy chima, jade jeogori, green gyeonmagi(top jacket) with the uyeomeori hairstyle. When working in the evening, they wore pink jeogori or yellow-green jeogori, navy chima with the jojimmeori hairstyle for easiness to stay up all night and work. Navy chima was worn by court ladies. If there was a royal family event upper court ladies wore uyeomi, black or green wonsam, and stewards wore garima and dangui.

The Revocation of the International Commercial Arbitral Award by the Chinese Court (중국법원의 섭외상사중재판정의 취소)

  • Lee, Shie-Hwan
    • THE INTERNATIONAL COMMERCE & LAW REVIEW
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    • v.31
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    • pp.107-134
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    • 2006
  • Enforcement of an arbitration award is an extremely important issue in arbitration. Arbitration, as a dispute settlement process, is rendered meaningless if it is not possible to enforce an award rendered by an arbitration tribunal. On the other hand, the present international arbitration system guided by the New York Convention and UNCITRAL Model Law is established on the dual supervision from the national courts. The nationality of the international arbitral award closely relates to the supervision of the national court, and the national court is entitled to decide the nationality of the international award in accordance with the conditions set in its own domestic law. The national court may set aside arbitral award made in its territory while the foreign court may refuge enforcement of foreign arbitral awards according to its own law and international convention to which it is a party. The conditions set in the Arbitration Law of the People's Republic of China are in agreement with those set in the UNCITRAL Model Law. The Chinese national court is entitled to set aside international awards made in China in accordance with the Chinese Law. The purpose of this paper is to clarify the Chinesr practice on the revocation of international commercial arbitral awards.

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A study on the Judge's Robe and the Prosecutor's Robe in Korea. (한국의 판.검사복에 관한 연구)

  • 임영자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.29
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    • pp.171-182
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    • 1996
  • This thesis is concerned with the study of the court attire the typical attire of the ju-dicial world in a point of time that more than 100 years have passed since the introduction of the modern judical system. In recognition of the fact that compiled data of the official uni-form or attire in Korea are insufficient this study placed its signification on the provision of information with focus on attire. As a result of studying court attire in Korea the conclusion was made as follows: Firstly Official attires in Yi Dynasty were divided by wearing embroidered insignia on the breast and the back of an official robe ac-cordint to court rank as well as by wearing Sa-mo in wadded clothes of Dan-ryeong and attaching all sorts of appurtenances including bands and shoes The Minister of Justice was equipped with Ho-pyo Dae-sa-heon equipped with Hae-chi the mayor of Seoul equipped with Un-an In the era of the Kng Young-jo the minister of Justice had no change in its of-ficial robe but the mayer(Pan-yun) of Seoul (Han-sung-bu) had Un-an(wild geese in clouds) changed into Un-hak In the King Ko-jog era the minister of Justice had Ho-pyo changed into Ssang-ho and the mayor of Seoul had Un-hak changed into Ssng-hak on embroideved insignia on the breast and back of an official robe. Laws and regulations concerning court attire began with the In-judgement Full-dress Uni-form Requlation for official-level Clerical Staff below the ordinary staff the Issue No. 14 of the Royal Ordinance in 1906 provided as $\ulcorner$the matter cincerning the Dress Regulation of the Tribunal staff of the Cho-sun Government-General$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 222 of the Royal Ordi-nance in 1911 and changed into$\ulcorner$the Regu-lation on the Dress of Judge Prosecutor At-torney and Law Count Clerk$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 12 of the Supreme Court Rule in 1953 affter the establishment of Korean Government since emancipation from the Japanese rule and into $\ulcorner$the Regulation concerning the Court Attire of Judge and law Court Clerical Staff$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 516 of the Supreme Court Rule in 1966. The judicial system in Korea is the system introduced from the foreign country rather than autogenously developed. And it came to pass through the Japanese colonial period it the beginning that it took root in Korea n was not stabilized in harmony with our native tradition. Accordingly the attare regulation in the judicial system took root in our society by accepting the Japanese attire regulation as it was and judical officials have come to wear the count attire similar to that of the Japanese imperialist era due to its influence though Korean independent goverment was established together with liberation form the Japanese rule. The more regrettable thing is that the current court attire has maintained the form greatly influenced by the U. S. court attire. Fortunately as the judicial circles have recently raised their voices for change in the court attire it has been told that the forma-tion of a meeting for a new court attire has been under way. The birth of the court attire into Which our tradition is sublimated is expected. This study end up with thinking that the must Korean thing is the most global thing in this era that people in the world are clamoring for globalization.

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A Study on the Characteristics of Court Housing Design in Korea (중정형 공동주택의 공간계획 특성 연구)

  • Kang, In-Ho;Park, So-Young
    • Proceeding of Spring/Autumn Annual Conference of KHA
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    • 2005.11a
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    • pp.263-268
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    • 2005
  • The aim of this study was to analyse the design characteristics of court housing. In spite of changes of housing design condition, especially density, there have been changes only in the height of housing block, not in the housing types, layout system and other design properties. Due to the situation, housing design in Korea has been criticised as too routine and monotonous one. As one of the alternatives to respond to the criticism, this study focused on the positive aspects of the court housing type, and suggested the design strategies throughout the analysis of 8 entries in the design competition of EunPyeong NewTown, which attempted to overcome the negative problems - mainly the daylighting, orientation, and privacy- of this housing type. Throughout the analysis, there suggested design strategies to respond to the problems of court housing type, which can be the basis for the court housing design in Korea.

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A Study on Layout and Operation of Suk-seol-so and Jung-bae-seol-cheong at Court Banquets in the Late Joseon - Focusing on Uigwe(Ritual Manual) for Court Banquets - (조선후기 궁중연향 시 숙설소와 중배설청의 배치와 운영에 관한 연구 -궁중연향의궤를 중심으로-)

  • Kyoung, Se-Jin;Cho, Jae-Mo
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.24 no.6
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    • pp.67-82
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    • 2015
  • With regard to Gung-jung Yeon-hyang(宮中宴享; court banquet), the frequency of banquets that were held at one time beginning Mu-ja J in-jak(戊子進爵; a royal banquet held in 1828) in 1828 (the 28th year of King Sunjo (純祖)'s reign). In proportion to this frequency, there was an increase in the need and importance of Suk-seol-so(熟設所; a kitchen built in temporarily house for court banquet) and Jung-bae-seol-cheong(中排設廳; a temporary place to put offerings) as a space to assist court banquets. Although Suk-seol-so was a temporary but large-scale facility, it was frequently used for long periods. This facility was flexibly established using the variability of Dong-gung(東宮; Palace for Crown Prince) and enhanced the efficiency of censorship and security in conjunction with palace gates and Suk-wi-cheo(宿衛處; guard station, guard room). In addition, it was reused according to the period when the nation and royal family gave finances or banquets. Jung-bae-seol-cheong was established in the place connected to the central space of court banquets and worked as buffer space to resolve the tension on the day of the event. The location where Jung-bae-seol-cheong was established enabled us to confirm the applicability of Bok-do(複道; corridor) connected to Chimjeon(寢殿; royal residence) when holding court banquets. In short, Suk-seol-so and Jung-bae-seol-cheong were auxiliary spaces, but were considered importantly in the palace operation when holding court banquets.

The Employment Issue and Qualifications for Arbitrators: A Comment on Jivraj v Hashwani [2011] UKSC 40 (중재인의 근로자성과 자격요건 - 영국 대법원의 2011년 Jivraj v Hashwani 판결을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Young-Ju
    • Journal of Arbitration Studies
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    • v.26 no.1
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    • pp.29-51
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    • 2016
  • This paper reviews the Supreme Court decision of the United Kingdom in Jivraj v. Hashwani (2011) concerning the employment issue of arbitrators, falling within the exception of genuine occupational requirement under the Employment Equality (Religion or Belief) Regulations 2003, and nationality of arbitrators. In 2011, the Supreme Court of the United Kingdom delivered its judgment in Jivraj v. Hashwani, unanimously overturning decision of the English Court of Appeal. The facts of this case and the decision of the Court of Appeal have been widely discussed. The decision of the Supreme Court has been met with approval within the international arbitration community in London, having restored the legal position to that prior to the Court of Appeal's ruling. Thus, the Supreme Court unanimously overturned the Court of Appeal's finding that arbitrators are the employees of the arbitrating parties. Arbitrators were held to be genuinely self-employed, and therefore outside the scope of the Regulations or Equality Act(2010). As such, the anti-discrimination provisions are not applicable to the selection, engagement or appointment of arbitrators. Most importantly, the Supreme Court's finding that arbitrators are not employees removes the possibility of challenges to arbitration agreements on the grounds that they are in breach of the Equality Act. As a practical matter, parties no longer need to consider carving out nationality provisions when drafting arbitration agreements.

Establishment of Western-style Court Dress and its Formal Characteristics in the Meiji Period of Japan (일본 메이지기 [明治期] 문관대례복의 성립과 형태적 특징)

  • Lee, Kyung-Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.5
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    • pp.71-87
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

A Study on Court's Dancing Costume - A Comparison between the Court's Dancing Costume and the People's Clothes - (궁중 무용의상에 관한 연구 - 유럽 일반 복식과의 비교를 중심으로 -)

  • 정옥임;김경희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.7
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    • pp.123-138
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    • 2002
  • This study as one of a series of systematic studies about dancing costumes will compare the costumes of the 16th. 17th century with their normal style of dress. In brief. this study wants people to know about 16th, 17th century court dancing costumes and to understand the culture in the 16th.17th century. From the comparison between the court's dancing costume and the people's clothes, we could get the conclusion as follows. First, pourpoint. chemis, gown, chausses, etc. that people wore were used for the court's dancing costume. While people Pursued the beauty with the ample silhouette. there were used wrinkles. slits. and tailored oblique line-clothes that gave vitality. Second, silk. linen. brocade. etc. that were used for people's chemises were used for the dancing costume. The good quality and beautiful colors of the dancing costume. however. excelled than of the brilliant court's clothes and the people's clothes. Third. the hair style of dancers were very colorful. For example, there were many kinds of hats and furs, corals, etc. that were attached to them on the most of the long curly hair. In summary, for the court's dancing costume, the same type of clothes was used like the people's clothes. There, however, were differences. The slits, tailored oblique line-clothes and shortened skirt gave the activity. There were many decorations symbolizing the nobles' wealth and Power. Especially the use of the decoration of hair and other stake properties was an effective means for expression. The use of personified masks also contributed to the development of the court dance.