• Human Ecology Research
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• v.56 no.5
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• pp.417-424
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• 2018

The use stage of a textile product impacts sustainability more significantly than other stages of the product's life cycle due to repeated washing and drying. This study determines efficient washing conditions, with high detergency, to reduce energy consumption from excessive washing and improve the washing process sustainability. Detergency was measured at various washing temperatures ($20^{\circ}C$, $40^{\circ}C$, and $60^{\circ}C$) and time (10 min, 20 min, and 30 min) using standardized soiled fabrics, i.e., 100% cotton, polyester/cotton (65%/35%), and 100% polyester woven fabric soiled with pigment/sebum, carbon black/mineral oil, soot/mineral oil, cocoa, blood, and red wine. Detergency at the washing condition of $20^{\circ}C$ and 30 min was higher than that at $40^{\circ}C$ and 10 min. In addition, detergency at the condition of $40^{\circ}C$ and 30 min was also higher than that at $60^{\circ}C$ and 10 minutes. This may be because a reduced washing effect at low washing temperatures was complemented by increased mechanical action over a long time. Further, washing temperature and time, with the same detergency, differed based on the type of fiber and soil. Also, the influence of a detergent on the detergency depends on the type of soil. The results suggest that energy and detergent have been consumed more than necessary in actual laundry. According to each type of fiber and soil, washing conditions designed to reduce the energy consumption of the washing process while maintaining the same detergency, were determined.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.12
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• pp.1477-1485
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• 2011

Dyeability and colorfastness of the blended knits of cotton/rayon (40/60; C/R) and wool/tencel (10/90; W/T) are examined using the natural dyestuff ($Pinux^{TM}$) manufactured from Pinus radiata pine bark extract. In addition, pre-treatments (such as bleaching, mercerization and cationization) are performed to improve dyeability and colorfastness. The $Pinux^{TM}$ powder dyestuffs produced by Pinux Co., Ltd. are used as dyestuffs and their properties are examined for dyeing concentration (0.5-2% (owb)), dyeing time (30-120 minutes) and dyeing temperature (30-$90^{\circ}C$). Dyeability is evaluated with K/S value at 400nm, which is the maximum absorption wavelength for $Pinux^{TM}$. The results show the dyeability of W/T sample containing protein fiber with $Pinux^{TM}$ is superior to all cellulose fiber C/R. A concentration of dyestuff greater than 1.5% (owb), dyeing time 120 minutes and dyeing temperature of $90^{\circ}C$ are the most optimized conditions. It shows that the dyeability of C/R and W/T samples are high in the condition of an acid-dyeing bath and that dyeability highly declined in alkaline bath due to the instability of the proanthocyanidin pigment. After analyzing the effect of bleaching, mercerizing and cationizing (as pre-treatments on dyeability) it was concluded that the dyeability of the C/R sample was enhanced by mercerization but no significant effect by cationization. However, the simultaneous treatment of cationizing and dyeing resulted in far improved dyeability compared to dyeing after cationizing pre-treatment. As for the W/T sample, the effect of cationization was more prominent than the C/R sample. Colorfastness to color changes in the control W/T sample was higher than that of C/R's level 1-2, and it increased to Level 2 when bleaching pre-treatment was given and when a simultaneous cationizing treatment was adopted to the dyeing process. Colorfastness to light in W/T control sample resulted in Level 3 and further increased to an excellent Level of 4 with bleaching and simultaneous cationizing during dyeing process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.958-968
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to clarify the different mechanical properties of fabrics among the theme groups classified by fashion fabric trend. This study can be useful for fabric marketers and planners to design new products. In order to carry out this study, the fabric samples of representative theme for‘2002/03 F/W fashion fabric trend were collected from a fashion company and were measured to analyze the mechanical properties, hand value(H.V) and total hand value(T.H.V) by KES-FB System. The results were as follows. 1. The theme-A of‘Luxury, Elegance’was consisted of wool, rayon and PET and had a lower B, 2HB of bending properties and a lower G and 2HG5 of shear properties. The theme-B of‘Technical, Functional’was consisted of synthetic fibers such as PET, PA, PU and elastic fiber and had a higher MIU and a lower MMD, SMD of surface properties. The theme-C of‘Vintage, Aged’was consisted of mostly cotton and had the highest B and 2HB. The theme-D of‘Fancy, Airy’was consisted of mostly woolen wool, polyacryl and polyamide and had a high MMD and SMD of surface properties and a high LC and RC of compression properties. 2. As the results of analyzing H.V and T.H.V through KES-FB system, the theme-A showed a higher Smoothness and lower Stiffness. The theme-B had a lower Smoothness, Fullness, Soft feeling and T.H.V and the theme-C had the highest Stiffness. The theme-D showed the highest Fullness and Soft Feeling but the lowest Stiffness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.10
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• pp.1665-1672
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• 2009

This study examines the comfort of outdoorwear by electrocardiogram (ECG) and electroencephalogram (EEG) analyses. An experiment that consisted of rest (30 min), exercise (30 min), and recovery (20 min) periods was administered in a climate chamber with 10 healthy male participants. Two kinds of outdoorwear made of 100% cotton fabrics ('Control') and specially engineered fabrics having the feature of quick sweat absorbency and high speed drying fabric ('Functional') are evaluated in the experiment. ECG and EEG signals were obtained during the rest and recovery periods for the two outdoorwear conditions. The ECG analysis identified a smaller decrement of high frequency (HF) power for the 'Functional' when compared with the 'Control' during the recovery period. Next, the EEG analysis showed that the relative band powers of slow $\alpha$ and mid $\alpha$ increased for the 'Functional' while they decreased for the 'Control' and that the ratio of $\alpha$ power to high $\beta$ power was higher for the 'Functional'. The evaluation results indicate that the participants could remain relaxed more with less stress while wearing the functional outdoorwear that demonstrated the positive effects on autonomic nervous system (ANS) activities. The present study is significant in regard that use of ECG and EEG for the assessment of wear comfort is the first in the field of clothing and textile.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.149-163
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• 2011

Hanjisa(Korean paper yarn), a new material made from the traditional Korean paper, has been developed through local R&D efforts, reflecting the current trend highly valuing environmental friendly. This new material is considered suitable for the 21C lifestyle and culture pursuing improved quality of human life and the environment. Therefore, this study aims to widely make known the originality and functions of the environmentally friendly Korean paper yarn, as well as to increase its commercial value. Furthermore, a new category of apparel design is presented by studying painting dyeing based on transformational tuck techniques and wax resist dyeing with formative features of repeated lines and rhythms of shells in order to implement three-dimensional and decorative artistic expressions. The texture of the Korean cotton paper yarn was particularly suitable to employ tuck and dyeing techniques Which express formative features of shell. Also, the material was useful for expressing the three-dimensional feelings with repeated curves and cross sections of shells. Moreover, paraffin resist dyeing and stitch techniques were used in order to avoid monotony and the images of shells visually materialized. Through the results stated above, this study could explore how to overcome obstacles to globalization of the Korean modern apparel such as its uniqueness, limit of materials or absense of internationality by applying modern design to the Korean paper fabrics. In the future, it is expected that more manufactures could produce and supply the new materials so as to make widely known the originality of the Korean paper fabrics and develop the material into a popular organic product fitting the modern lifestyle.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1013-1019
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• 2015

As the interest in leisure and health increases, the domestic outdoor wear industry becomes bigger. The waterproofness of fabrics does not ensure the waterproofness of garments because of the stitch holes during the sewing process even with the seam sealing tapes. Thus the water leakage often becomes a problem during the end use. Still companies use fabrics waterproofness data for garments marketing because they are simple to run the test, less expensive than the whole garment testing, and easy to achieve the quality control. In this study the rain tower system for evaluating the waterproofness of garments has been developed and the waterproofness of the selected waterproof and breathable garments in the market were tested. The rain tower was consisted of rain tower room, rainfall forming system and measurement system. Two different levels of rainfall can be simulated with this system(100l/m²/hr and 450l/m²/hr). Jackets in the market have been tested at two different rainfall conditions. The temperature and humidity data inside jackets didn't provide much information on the waterproofness at severe rainfall condition(450l/m²/hr, 1 hour). However, water leakage was detected on the cotton undershirt inside jacket. 5 out of 8 jackets passed the normal rainfall condition(100l/m²/hr, 30 minutes). The newly developed rain tower system was able to evaluate the waterproofness of the jacket seams. It is recommended the further study on the detailed test conditions for the end use of the waterproof and breathable garments.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.102-120
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• 2005

Three Jang-Ue's and eleven drapery were investigated in the excavated costume in Ue-Ryeong, Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do. Three Jang-Ue's have three different colors. the length, the width, and the wide of quilting are different as well. The outer collar of a coat is a double collar while the inturned collar is a single collar. In case of Dark blue and Pink Jang-Ue. The large section of cloth forming the body of a Korean coat is getting narrower while the reinforcing cloth strip is getting wider as the time is passing by. All the three Jang-Ue's have the different handling methods of a attached to the top border of a Korean coat, and Pink Jang-Ue doesn't have a attached to the tip border of a Korean coat. The handling method of the hemline are all different. And the handling method of the cuffs are all different. The silk is main in the woven goods, partly hemp, mixed fabrics and cotton. Especially complex gauze with supplementary wefts that were found unusually in Cho-Sun Dynasty are very import to study the complex gauze. The fond relics of the Jeon-Ui Lee family reveal various formational methods and specific characters of the excavated costume. There fore these that bring the Jang-Ue shape and the textile's feature in Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do region, from 16th to 17th are very valuable.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 1996

In discharge printing of cotton fabrics dyed with C.I. Reactive Orange 16(O-16), C.I. Reactive Blue 19(B-19) and C.I. Reactive Black 5(Bl-5), when the dyes were discharged by some chemicals, such as $K_{2}CO_{3}$, BASB, DSR, sarcosine and GSB, the single use of those chemicals made a very poor discharge, but mixing them with $K_{2}CO_{3}$ resulted to the outstanding improvement of discharge. Especially the dischargeability of $K_{2}CO_{3}$ BASB or $K_{2}CO_{3}$+DSR was very gratifying. For O―16, $K_{2}CO_{3}$+ DSR was slightly more effective than $K_{2}$CO$_{3}$+BASB, but for B―19 and Bl―5 $K_{2}CO_{3}$+BASB and $K_{2}CO_{3}$+DSR showed similar good results. In discharging of O―16 and B―19 by $K_{2}CO_{3}$+BASB or $K_{2}CO_{3}$ +DSR, the dischargeabilities of them increased as the time of 102$^{\circ}C$ steaming increased under the condition of 102$^{\circ}C$ steaming and no baking, but not under the condition of 102$^{\circ}C$ steaming and 16$0^{\circ}C$ baking. However for Bl-5, without regard to baking, the 102$^{\circ}C$ steaming of more than 15 minutes caused the discharge to be much more remarkable than that of 8 minutes did. Generally baking elevated the dischargeability, and this was sure in discharging by $K_{2}CO_{3}$+BASB or $K_{2}CO_{3}$+DSR. And it was confirmed that the structure of vinylsulfonyl reactive dyes could effect on the dischargeability because the three dyes, though little, showed different discharge behaviors.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.83-89
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• 1996

Carbon black has been used as a particulate soil to prepare artificial soiled fabrics for detergent study but it has two major defects. The one is the difficulty of quantitative analysis of carbon black for evaluate the detergency, the other is that there is no reliable correlation between the removal of carbon black and oily soil which is the major component of natural soil. In this study ferric oxinate was used as a particulate soil since it is in black color and can be soiled on fabric by suspension in water or by solution in chloroform and it is easily analysed quantitatively by extracting it from soiled fabric with chloroform to get correct value of soil removal. The characteristics of soil removal of ferric oxinate were compared with that of carbon black and Sudan black, an oil soluble dye, which had been proved that it's detergency correlated with that of oily soil The soil removal of ferric oxinate and Sudan black estimated from quantitative analysis and from K/S value were in good agreement whereas the result calculated by simple reflectance was consistently low. The soil removal of ferric oxinate was exceeded from that of carbon black without regard to surfactants, Triton and Las, but the effect of washing conditions such as temperature and washing time on soil removal of both soils with different suffactants showed no considerable difference. Though the soil removal of Sudan black was little effected by the conditions, the soil removal in Triton exceeded considerably that of in Las, which is the characteristic of oily soil. Thus the soil removal of Sudan black was in good agreement with ferric oxinate in Triton, a non-ionic surfactant, and with carbon black in Las, an artionic surfactant. We concluded that ferric oxinate is a more realistic model particulate soil for artificial soiled cotton fabric washed with non-ionic surfactant than carbon black.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.15-21
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• 1981

The effect of fatty acid content in oily soil and conditions of washing on the removal of triglyceride have been studied. Cotton lawn was soiled with the four-component soil-tripalmitin, palmitic acid, dodecyl alcohol and dodecane-and washed in constant temperature waterbath shaker. The detergency was estimated by analysis of triglyceride labelled carbon-14 on fabrics before and after washing by means of liquid scintillation counting. It was shown that the detergency of triglyceride washed with the nonionic, nonylphenol poly (10)-ethylene oxide and soap was increased steadily with increasing temperature, whereas with the anionics Na-DBS and SLS, the detergency was rather decreased when the temperature was elevated above $40^{\circ}C$. To investigate the effects of free fatty acid content in soil on the removal of triglyceride, the fabrics were soiled altering palmitic acid content, and then washed. From the results, the detergency of triglyceride was developed with increasing free fatty acid content. With soils containing less than $30\%$ of free fatty acid, of the three detergents tested, the nonionic was by far the most effective soil removal. Soap was intermediate and the synthetic anionic was the poorest. With soil containing $45\%$ of free fatty acid, soap was the most effective soil removal. When NaOH was added to detergent solution. the detergency of triglyceride was improved without regard to detergents. The optimum alkalinity was obtained according to free fatty acid content. And the alkalinity changed to low NaOH concentration with increasing free fatty acid content. From the results mentioned above, it could be concluded that the major removal mechanisms of triglyceride containing oily soil were mesomorphic phase formation, solubilization and soap forma-tion when alkali was added in detergent solution.