• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.234-238
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• 2000

In this study it was measured seam strength of T/C which has the different processing methods and density. Also it was measured seam strength by the change of angle in the pattern and the kinds of threads. The results of this study are as follows; The seam strength is stronger in order of $90^{\circ}/90^{\circ}$ > $0^{\circ}/0^{\circ}$ > $70^{\circ}/-70^{\circ}$ > $70^{\circ}/70^{\circ}$ > $60^{\circ}/60^{\circ}$ > $60^{\circ}/-60^{\circ}$ > $30^{\circ}/30^{\circ}$ > $30^{\circ}/-30^{\circ}$ > $45^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$ > $45^{\circ}/45^{\circ}$ by the cutting directions, in order of T/C3>T/C1>T/C4>T/C2 by the samples and in order of 60's/3>40's/2>60's/2>50's/2 by the threads.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.259-263
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• 1999

This study was carried out to investigate the changes of thermal properties such as warmth retaining and contact warm/cool feeling of commercial dress shirts by repeated washing and drying by sun and dryer. Three kinds of fabrics such as cotton 100%, cotton/polyester 80/20% and polyester 100% were repeatedly washed and dried, and then used as specimen. Thermo Labo II type was employed to measure the thermal properties. At the same time, structural properties such as thickness, weight, bulk density, porosity, moisture vapor permeability and air permeability were analysed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.16-27
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of chemical finishes on performance characteristics of microfiber blend fabrics. A 60% polyester microfiber /40% cotton blend woven fabric was finished by ten chemicals: three silicone softeners, one fluorochemical, and their mixtures. Performance characteristics examined were fabric hand attributes. Fabric hand was evaluated by instrumental measures using Kawabata KES-F system instruments. Silicone-only finishes did not change the bending properties significantly from those of the control fabric. The fluorochemical-only finish made the fabric stiffer and crisper. When the two chemicals were mixed they tended to offset this adversary effect. Most of the chemical finishes made the surface finer and smoother. Fluorochemical-only finish improved fabric strength. Likewise, dimethylpolysiloxane silicone improved fabric strength. Amino-functional hydrophilic and diamino-functional silicone softeners, on the other hand, reduced fabric strength. However, when mixed with the fluorochemical, the adversary effect was diminished.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.140-145
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is searching the Elm-Bark dyes' dyeability and antibacterial activities according to the dyeing time, pH, a mordant and the method of mordancy. We used two kinds of Elm-Bark dyes which's extracted by the Electrolytic reduction water and Distilled water. Silk fabric and Cotton/nylon union fabric was used for this study. The results are as follow. K/S value is increased according to the dyeing time and the suitable pH level is pH 3. Dyeability is good with Iron(II) sulfate$(FeSO_4\cdot{7H}_2O)$ on the pre-mordancy and Potassium dichromate$(K_2Cr_2O_7)$ on the post-mordancy. The Elm-Bark dyes by the Electrolytic reduction water has good colorfastness more than by the Distilled water. Antibacterial activities is excellent and the ratio is over than 99.5%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.110-122
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• 2014

This study examined hwangbek dyeability for cotton, silk, and wool from different tree species and origin as well as their berberine and palmatine content. A total of 12 different hwangbek were examined, six purchased directly from different locations of China and six purchased from the Seoul Medicine Market. Hwangbek purchased from China were 3 Kwanhwangbek (Phellodendron amurense Rupr.) from Jilin, Liaoning, Heilongjiang and 3 Chunhwangbek (Phellodendron chinense Schneid.) from Sichuan, Yunnan, and Guangxi. Hwangbek purchased from the Seoul Medicine Market included 3 hwangbek that originated from Korea and 3 hwangbek imported from China. We extracted 2.5g of each hwangbek into 500mL of water for 60 min at $80^{\circ}C$. Dyeing was conducted using the IR dyeing machine for 30min at $55^{\circ}C$ using a 1:100 liquor ratio. Cotton was mordanted using tannic acid followed by potassium antimonyl tartrate trihydrate treatment before dyeing. Berberine and palmatine pigments in hwangbek were identified with the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument and the amount of pigment was quantified using an ion chromatogram. The results indicated that the K/S values of dyed fabrics were highly related to the amount of pigment in hwangbek used for dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.30-39
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• 1994

To study the printing behaviors of Polyester and cotton(P/C) fabrics printed with disperse and reactive dyes, the effects of alkalis on the fixation of reactive dyes and the alkali-stability of disperse dyes in various methods of fixation were examined. The anthraquinone disperse dyes which have diamino derivatives as substituents without hydroxy group, such as C.I. Disperse Violet 1(D.V.1), C.I. Disperse Violet 28(D.V.28) and C.I.Disperse Blue 60(D.B.60) showed good results of fixation without regard to the concentration of NaHCO$_3$. In case of high temperature steaming(HTS) and unsaturated steaming(US)/HTS, D.V. 1 was alkali-stable and effective for P/C printing. A good result was obtained with D.V.1 and C.I.Reactive Orange 13(R.O.13) paste of 4% $K_{2}CO_{3}$. It was found that the unfixed D.V.28 bearing chloro group can hinder the fixation of monochlorotriaxinyl reactive dyes, and D.B.60 made little stain on 100% cotton. In thermosol(Tm), the dye uptake of D.V.1 was not decreased so much, but those of D.V.28 and D.B.60 were greatly decreased.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.142-148
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• 2015

The aim of this study was to investigate the possibility utilizing Metasequoia(Metasequoia glyptostroboides) cone as a new natural dye resource. Dyeing onto cotton fiber was carried out to study the effect of dyeing conditions and mordanting effect on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness. FT-IR analysis supported that hydrolyzable tannins were contained in the extracted colorant. Metasequoia cone colorant showed low affinity to cotton fiber and maximum dye uptake was obtained at pH 3.5 showing YR Munsell color. Mordanting improved dye uptake regardless of mordant type, especially Fe($C_5H_{10}FeO_6$) mordant was effective as much as 2 times higher dye uptake comparing with un-mordanted sample. The color of dyed fabric with mordanting showed YR Munsell color except of the Fe($FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_2O$) mordanted sample showing Y Munsell color. Colorfastness to rubbing and washing was relatively good, whereas lightfastness of the dyed fabrics was above grade 3/4 except that the dyed samples with Fe mordanting showed grade 2. It is necessary to apply Metasequoia cone colorant onto other fibers, especially protein fibers, for evaluating its efficacy as a new natural dye resource.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.35-50
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• 2001

The object of this study is to improve the adsorption of dye for gromwell. Dye was from gromwell first soaked in methylol and added the distilled water, using same amount of methylol. The fabrics used for the experiments were cotton, silk and acrylics(KS0905). These were used untreated and pretreated with chitosan, premordanted with Cu, Al and Fe. Dyeing conditions were controlled. 1. Deep color effect was shown silk. 2. Chitosan treated cotton and acrylics showed deep color effect and huge color difference before and after the experiment. 3. In chitosan treated acrylics, deep color effect were shown. It proved the good adsorption of gromwel under metal mordanting. 4. Cu showed high adsorption of gromwell and deep color effect. 5. Chitosan treated acrylics can be substitute for wool.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.10-19
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• 1993

Broad, mercerized broad, mercerized twill cotton fabrics and rayon fabric were treated with cellulase for 30~480 minutes at different temperature, concentration, time, and also treating methods such as continuously-treated or repeatedly-treated, and dyed with two direct dyes before or after enzyme treatment. From the experimental result by treating under the various conditions above, it was obtained that the weight loss increased more in thin fabric than thick one. In addition, it was considered that the treatment in 5$0^{\circ}C$ for 240 minutes brought about the ideal weight loss and flexible hand of the specimens. For both broad and mercerized broad, repeated treatment showed more weight loss than continuous. Direct dye on cotton fabric apparently inhibited hydrolysis. Ionic surfactants showed the inhibition effect of the catalytic hydrolysis of enzyme, on the other hand, nonionic surfactant did not.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.665-674
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• 2014

An analysis of the components of clay mineral before and after coloration (XRF) showed that the elements involved in coloration are Fe, Cr, and Ni. Fe accounts for 65% of coloring components on dyed fabric; in addition, Cr and Ni also affect coloring. The optimal coloration condition was to repeat the process of immersing the cotton fabric in $80^{\circ}C$ slurry of 8g of clay mineral to 1g cotton for 60 minutes, dry it for 24 hours and rinse three times. Especially, as the repetition of coloration increased, the $(K/S)_{440}$ value of sample A increased from 1.0 to 2.5, and sample B increased from 1.0 to 1.6. The effect of the repeated process on coloration was significant; consequently, the rinsing and drying process were important to decrease the coloration level. It also showed excellent results in regard to color fastness to washing, light, rubbing, perspiration, and antibiotic effect.