• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.62-75
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• 2020

In this study, clothing items recorded in Nappyemulmok (納幣物目) and Ugwimulmok (于歸物目) in the early 20th century were examined. These clothing items were recorded on the lists of goods for wedding gifts from the 1910s to the 1930s. A large quantity of these lists were organized into eight categories by analyzing the fabrics of each item of clothing. Representative fabrics used for skirts and Jeogori (such as Myeongju, 明紬) were used widely. Jeoksam was mostly made with ramie fabric. Pants mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of silk. Gojaengi mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of ramie. Danui (單衣) used silk fabrics such Pparinseu, Myeongju, and Gyoju for decorative features that were revealed when rolled up. Naeui (內衣) is believed to be the closest underclothes to the body, and Mumyung was mostly used. Dangmok and calico were used for the Yodae (腰帶) and fabrics such as silk, Nobangju, and JuhangNa were used for outdoor use. This type of categorization is significant, as it can be used as academic evidence to verify and reproduce the clothing of the time by identifying fabrics, colors, and characteristics of certain items of clothing. Lastly, it is expected that the analysis of clothing will provide theoretical data in the same way that movies, dramas, and museum exhibitions feature modern traditional weddings.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.47-59
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• 2008

The recent trend of Sports Wear is seeking functionality and fashion at the same time, where the spread of sportism becomes caual style leading street fashion. Sports Wear is classified into active Sports Wear and Sports casual Wear, in which active Sports Wear is expanded to a mixture with Sports casual wear. The purpose of this study is to research the trend of materials used in active Sports Wear and Sports casual wear. Materials used for jacket/jumper, pants and t-shirts of active Sports Wear and Sports casual wear, and high-tech functional materials used for active Sports Wear have been analyzed. The results of the study are the following: a) Most of the materials used for Sports Wear are polyester, nylon, cotton, and a mixture of cotton and polyester. Active Sports Wear uses functional materials and texture such as Dri-Fit, which absorbs and dries fast, whereas Sports casual wear satin, cire and denim has been used to keep up with the trend rather than focusing in functionality: b) companies such as Nike and Adidas have used many high-tech materials to emphasize the functionality of Sports Wear, while Puma stresses on fashion rather than function, however uses spandex in order for the consumer to feel comfortable during physical activities; c) active Sports Wear in jacket/jumper, pants and t-shirts uses functional material and texture, however Sports casual wear uses satin and cire to keep up with the fashion trend rather than functionality; d) and Nike uses high-tech funtional materials for its Sports Wear in therma-fit, Clima-fit, Dri-fit and storm-fit, whereas Adidas uses Clirna-lite, Clirna-proof, Clima-warm, and Clirna-cool in their active Sports Wear.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권4호
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• pp.601-612
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• 2015

This research investigated the dyeing behavior of palmatine (a major coloring compound of Phellodendron bark in addition to berberine) using mercerization (M), tannic acid (T), mercerization-tannic acid (MT), and tannic acid -mercerization (TM) pretreatments. Mercerization was conducted using $20^{\circ}C$ of 20% NaOH for 5 minutes. Tannic acid treatment was conducted using 15% o.w.f. solution of tannic acid at $60^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes and fixed with potassium antimonyl tartrate trihydrate. Dyeing was conducted using 1% o.w.f. palmatine chloride hydrate with 1:100 liquor ratio at $10-95^{\circ}C$ for 10-60 minutes in a dyebath of pH 3-9. MT method resulted in the highest dye uptake and was two times higher than the average dye uptake of T method. MT method provided the best result when the dyeing temperature was $80^{\circ}C$ or $95^{\circ}C$ and the dyeing time was 60 minutes. The pH of the dyebath had less effect on the dye uptake but a pH higher than 5 provided better results. The study confirmed that palmatine is a major coloring compound of Phellodendron bark and that the MT method can be used as a successful cotton dyeing method.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.479-485
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• 2017

This study provides basic indices for the development of a pet dog's dummy. Surveys were conducted with 71 owners of small dogs weighing under 10kg as preliminary research for information on pet dogs, uses and complaints about their clothes and demographic information to investigate wearing conditions. We collected pictures of 30 products sold in 12 brands at home and abroad to analyze size, materials, and patterns and investigate the actual production conditions. The survey results on wearing conditions indicated that 'Maltese' was the breed most often raised in households. Dogs weighing 'between 3kg and 4kg' were most common. Dogs under five years of age took up 53.5%. Most of the clothes were 'S' size, followed by 'M' and 'L' Most responded, 'The overall size does not fit' as an inconvenience when worn for long. Second, most brands developed products in three sizes. The displayed details included neck and chest circumference, back length and dummy height. Cotton and artificial leather were used most often for the outer fabric, cotton for the internal filling along with wire and aluminum for some products to maintain shape and motions. Most dummies consisted of back+outer leg, belly, inner leg and sole. Sometimes, a composition line was added by the chest shape, and an incision was placed between the body and leg for breeds with thick legs. Most patterns had a composition line in the leg connected from the belly.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.197-206
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.79-85
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• 2002

To develope natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the waste grape juice. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing time, dyeing temperature, pH and concentration of dyebath and mordants which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(${\Delta}E$) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk dyed fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were very slightly increased with dyeing time and the color of dyed silk was light purple and the cotton, ramie and hemp was light red purple. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color became lighter with dyeing temperature increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color changed from light purple to blue with the pH of dyebath increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were slightly increased with the concentration of dyebath increased. The color of dyed fabric changed with the mordant treatment and were different among the experimental fabrics. On the whole, blue tone increased with the Al and Fe mordant and green tone increased with the Cu mordant. The color fastness of dyed silk fabrics to light, washing (change) and perspiration (change) was bad and color fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing were good.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.31-37
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• 1977

The effects of surfactants and concentration of NaOH in surfactant solution on the removal of free fatty acid soil from cotton fabrics were investigated. Cotton fabrics were soiled with palm itic acid which is the most common fatty acid found in natural oily soil and washed in Lauder-ometer with various types of surfactant with or without NaOH. The rate of soil removal was estimated by analyzing palmitic acid contents in fabric before ar d after washing. Analysis of palmitic contents was made by extracting palmitic acid with azeotropic mixture of alcohol-benzene and the extracts were titrated with standard NaOH solution. It was shown that the types of surfactant are important factor in free fatty acid removal and the efficiency increases in the following order: SLS$90\%$ of initial sorption. In relation to the mechanism of detergency, the suspending and emulsifying power of surfactants were also examined. From the results of this experiments, it could be concluded that the soap formation with alkali and the suspending power of surfactant arc significant factors in free fatty acid soil removal, but the emulsifying power of it is neglizible.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.218-229
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• 2011

Dyeing properties of cotton and ramie fabrics with pine needles colorants were studied by investigating the analysis of pine needles colorants, the effect of dyeing conditions (such as dye concentration, dyeing temperatures and times on dye uptakes), effect of mordants, and color change. The various colorfastness of dyed fabrics were evaluated for practical use; in addition, the antimicrobial ability, ultraviolet-cut ability, and deodorant ability were estimated. In the UV-Visible spectrum, the wavelength of the maximum absorption for pine needles extract was 285nm, and pine needles colorants produced a yellow color. From FT-IR and GC-MS results, it was assumed that chromophoric substance from pine needles extracts were mixed with flavonol tannin and flavanol tannin. An increased dyeing concentration resulted in a larger dye uptake and a Freundlich absorption isotherm was obtained. A larger dye uptake occurred as the dyeing time and temperature increased. Post-mordanting was more effective than pre-mordanting and the dye uptake of fabrics improved by mordanting. The colorfastness of dyed fabrics showed a low rating; however, colorfastness to washing and dry cleaning of cotton fabrics mordanted with N.Cu, and friction fastness of ramie fabric mordanted with Cu improved. The dyed fabrics showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9%. In addition, the ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability improved in fabrics dyed with pine needles extracts.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.1-9
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• 2007

In recent years, the application of digital textile printing has increased. The benefits of using this method include the ease of sampling and the production of printed textiles. However, the production process of digital textile printing differs from that of conventional printing. For successful digital textile printing by ink-jet technology, the pretreatment of fabrics is very important in order to overcome the following problems. Low viscosity ink can spread easily on the textile surface leading to poor resolution. As a result, the combination of ink and pretreatment chemicals is still impractical and consequently most fabrics used in digital textile printing will require a pre treated coating in order to prevent the ink colours from bleeding on the fabric. Research presented in this paper shows some preliminary attempts to establish the relationship between the pre treatment and the digital textile printing quality. Various cotton fabrics were treated with pre treatment agents including ingredients like thickener, alkali and humectant, and then ink spread effect and colour yield of printed fabrics by reactive ink were analysed by using an optical microscope and K/S value. The results show that digital textile printing quality on cotton fabrics can be optimized with appropriate pre treatments.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.103-112
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• 1998

면직물에 항균성을 부여하기 위하여 패드-건조(-열처리법)에 의해 키토산처리를 하였다. 분자량이 약 50,000으로 비슷하고 탈아세틸화도가 65∼95％인 4종의 키토산과 분자량이 약 1,800이고 탈아세틸화도가 약 86％인 1종의 키토산올리고머를 사용하였다. 키노산올리고머로 처리한 경우에는 세탁내구력을 증진시키기 위하여 가교제 또는 바인더를 가공처리액에 첨가하였다. 항균성은 쉐이크플라스크법에 의해 공시균 Staphylococcus aureus 와 Proteus vulgaris를 사용하여 측정하였다. 세탁내구력은 AATCC Test Method 60-1986 또는 JIS 0217-104에 따라 20회까지 세탁한 후 항균성을 측정하였다. 실험결과, 항균성은 키토산의 농도와 탈아세틸화도가 증가함에 따라 증가하였으며 열처리 유무는 항균성에 큰 영향을 미치지 않았다. AATCC Test Method 60-1986에 따르면 열처리한 시료의 세탁내구력이 열처리하지 않은 시료보다 우수하였다. 가교제나 바인더의 첨가는 키토산올리고머를 처리한 시료의 항균성을 감소시켰으며, JIS 0217-104에 따라 실험한 결과 세탁내구력 향상에 효과가 없었다.