• Proceedings of the Korean Vacuum Society Conference
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• 2009.02a
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• pp.126.2-126.2
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• 2009

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.844-859
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• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.127-140
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• 1998

A study on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from excavated tomb of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461-1528) is reported in this paper. This study is aimed at establishing database for a traditional Korean costume construction and emphasizing the necessity for development of methodology in writing report from excavated costume including measuring, construction methods and materials. This paper includes examples of measured length for each part of 'Dan-Ryung', reconstructured drawings, pictures, and construction methods. The followings on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century are found in this study: 1) Dan-Ryung robes were made of less expensive hemp, cotton, silk & cotton, and ramie & silk. 2) As a whole, Dan-Ryung was lengthy and spacious and it had straighter and narrower sleeves when compared to the ones from the late Chosun. 3) There existed Moo which was large rectangular guest with double pleats at Dan-Ryung's side seam. Its round collar was constructed with a 3 cm width bias. Ball buttons on the outer collar and loops on the right shoulder are attached. 4) There existed a pair of indirectly attached slim and short strings. Inside string is directly attached. 5) Inside of the shoulder, a U-shaped shoulder pad made of the same cloth as the inner cloth was attached. hand sewing methods used include delicate flat-felled seam stitch, back-stitch and sew-up stitch.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.30-41
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• 1997

A purpose of this research is to prove unknown relation -ship between finish bath pH and crosslinking. In pursuit of these goals, we have treated 100% cotton broad cloth with PTCA and BTCA at different pH values. They were used with H$_{3}$PO$_{4}$, NaH$_{2}$PO$_{2}$, NaH$_{2}$PO$_{4}$, Na$_{2}$HPO$_{4}$, Na$_{3}$PO$_{4}$, catalysts to produce nonformaldehyde fabrics finishes. Treatments were applied to all cotton fabrics using a parletry-cure process. For the fully understood on the relationship of finish bath pH effect and cotton cellulose esterification, the relative concentrations of chemical species were calculated from ionization constants. The effect of pH on the cotton cellulose ester was investigated using Fourier transform infrared spectra, the surface area measurement by BET method and wrinkle recovery analysis. Results of differential FT-IR spectra and their relative concentration analysis were compared with those of catalyst treated controls. FT-IR and wrinkle recovery data indicated that the esterfication by polycarboxylic acids is pridependent. A similar phenomenon also occurred when a phosphate or hypophosphite was used. Therefore, it is necessary to choose the optimum pH range of a finishing bath in order to achieve the most effective esterification.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1053-1062
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• 2007

This study purposed to restructure representative traditional patterns formatively, manufacture actual cultural products with traditional dyeing technique using persimmon, and commercialize the results of the research. Traditionally in Korea, the dying of natural fiber such as cotton, flax and silk with persimmon was called Galmul dyeing, and clothes made through Galmul dyeing were called Galot. Galot was very useful because it is strong, does not pick up dirt easily, dries easily, and is cool in summer. In addition, cloth dyed with persimmon becomes stiff, so it does not need to be starched or ironed after washing. Moreover, it does not transmit heat under direct rays and is highly air-permeable, so it is cool and useful for standing the heat. In this study, we used traditional persimmon dyeing technique, printing traditional patterns fit for contemporary people's aesthetic sense not through dip-dying but through printing. When persimmon dyeing is used in expressing patterns, it produces not only visual effect but also embossing effect due to the characteristic of persimmon that makes printed patterns stiff, so we can obtain unique texture distinguished from other printing methods. We chose seven motive patterns, which were lotus pattern symbolizing eternal life, peony pattern symbolizing wealth and rank and prosperity, character Su(壽) pattern widely used as a symbol of health, bird and cloud pattern in the Goryeo Dynasty, Sahapyeoeuisohwa(四合如意小花) pattern printed on brocade in the Goryeo Dynasty, lattice pattern, cloth pattern on wall paintings from the Period of the Three Kingdoms. From each pattern chosen as a motive was extracted unit patterns and the original pattern was restored using Adobe Illustrator. Restored patterns were restructured to be applied to cultural products fit for contemporary formative sense. Fabrics used in dyeing were cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and polyester. Although the same persimmon dyeing was applied, we produced different feelings of patterns using various fabrics and in some cases gold and silver powder was added for the effect of gloss in addition to the embossing of patterns. Using printed fabrics we manufactured tea pads, place mats, cushions, wrapping cloth for gifts, wallet, lampshades.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.5 s.58
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• pp.729-742
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• 2005

This paper studied the ban on 'Po[포]', including hemp and ramie, on the basis of Joseon Wangcho Silok (the True Record of Joseon Dynasty). Po is the important point which can help to understand the people's life related with clothing. This paper showed that in the early years of the Joseon Dynasty, the state had forced kinds of bans on some fabrics many times. Among the bans of the fabrics-making the main part was the bans on Po, along with rice, used as money in those days. The state had on Po enacted on the policy to intend to promote paper money circulation more widely. However, people didn't want to use paper money. The reason why cloth could be practical and functional as a kind of currency was that people could make clothes with it at any time while they used it as money. People avoided using paper money that could not be used in that way, and so did public officials. At that time, Po that was generally used as money was the hemp of five warp threads. The measurement of the hemp in 7chi[촌; a Korean inch] by 35chok[척] and 32cm by 16m by modern metric. It also showed that it has been thought that the blended fabrics are the fabrics that were made of raw silk-threads and cotton threads as warp and weft respectively. However, the fact that there is a record of 'Jeo Ma Gyo Jik Po[저마교직포의]'(blended fabrics and clothes made of ramie and hemp) and there appear the new proofs of the fieldwork investigation shows that the concept of blended fabrics might be various or changeable as time passed.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.18
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• pp.19-34
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• 2017

Analysis of the species of wood in the wooden materials and the chemical composition of the fabric of the clothing excavated from the tomb of Yi Jing (1580-1642) has determined that the wooden materials, including the coffin (內棺, naegwan), burial chamber(外棺, oegwan), chilseongpan(七星板, bottom-lining board), and fan-shaped slats were made of pine(Pinus densiflora). The analysis of the fabrics suggested that the cloth attached to the fan-shaped slats, the funeral banner with inscriptions, and the five pouches for the corpse (五囊, onang) were all made of silk. The jacket was made of plain-weave cotton, while the inner and outer cloth of the socks were made of cotton and hemp, respectively. Among the silk items, the pouches for the left and right feet (constituting the five pouches for the corpse) were made from a satin-weave figured silk, while the other silk items were made of ju(紬), or plain-weave silk fabric. Infrared analysis revealed that the fan-shaped slats were decorated with cloud patterns across the entire surface, while the funeral banner and the five pouches for the corpse bore ink inscriptions.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.192-198
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• 2000

Influence of the fluorescent whitening agent(FWA)'s adsorption on the whiteness of cotton and on the color change of the dyed fabrics was investigated by repeating wash cycles. Cotton 100% and cotton60/polyester40 blended fabrics were dyed pink, blue and yellow, and cyanuric chloride diamino stilbene(CC/DAS) and distyryl bisphenyl(DSBP) were used for the FWA with laundry detergents. Fabrics were washed at $20^\circ{C}$ with Terg-o-tometer. The FWA adsorption amount was measured by the absorption intensity for the pyridine-water extracted solution. The FWA adsorption increased on the cotton fabric with the wash cycles. Though adsorption of CC/DAS continuously increased up to the 20th cycle, that of DSBP increased sharply before the 10th cycle and reached an equilibrium. The whiteness of the fabrics dried in the shade was greater than that dried under the sunlight through window glass. The color change of dyed fabrics was increased by the number of wash cycles. Pink changed more greatly than blue, yellow or grey cloth. The color change(\Delta{E)}$ of dyed fabric washed repeatedly up to the 20th cycle with the detergent without FWA was less than 1. It is recommended to wash pale colored fabric with the detergent free of FWA.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.102-114
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• 2009

Chitosan is a polysaccharide with cationic amino groups in its structure and has useful properties as functional materials. Various end-use developments of chitosan are in progress. When the cotton fabric is pretreated with chitosan, the hand property of cotton fabric may be improved expecially for the summer apparel. In this study, as a cross-linking agent to introduce chitosan into cotton, BTCA(butane-1,2,3,4-tetracarboxylic acid) or CA(citric acid) was added in order to prevent detachment of chitosan by the cross-linking. During the cross-linking procedure, via the padding-drying-heat setting, amino groups of chitosan and hydroxyl groups of cotton, carboxyl groups of BTCA/CA are cross-linked by forming anhydrous cyclic rings. Since BTCA has four carboxyl groups, cross-linking by thermal treatment is easy, leading to the trials in wrinkle-recovery treatment of cotton fabrics. However, the high price of the BTCA reagent has been a shortcoming in the actual application for industrial use. Therefore, in this study, we tried the application of CA having three carboxyl groups, which is relatively low priced, as the substituting cross-linking agent. The hand of the treated fabrics were evaluated by measuring physical properties. In addition, based on the physical properties, three-dimensional images were introduced by using 3D CAD systems and results were compared.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.276-284
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• 1973

An experiment, aimed at finding out the adhesive condition when adhesive non-woven fabrics for padding cloths are used for padding cloths of blouse, has been conducted. Materials used were three different kinds-scoured, sanforized, and permanent pressed- of combined fabrics of polyester and cotton. As for padding cloth material, mixed spinning nonwoven fabrics of polyster and viscose rayon have been used. Adhesive conditions were made each at $120^{\circ}C$, $140^{\circ}C$, $160^{\circ}C$ and $180^{\circ}C$, respectively, and adhesive time has been limited to 5, 10, 20, 30, 40 seconds each. External appearance as well as quality have been watched through washing experiment. In case of 12$0^{\circ}C$, all experimental materials were separated at the seventh washing and as for $140^{\circ}C$, all but the material which has been attached on scoured cloth for 40 seconds were separated. In case of 20 seconds only permanent pressed cloth and sanforized cloth were separated. At 30 and 40 seconds, the adhesive conditions have been maintained up to the seventh washing. In case of 5 seconds $180^{\circ}C$it was not turned yellow, but all were separated. In case of 10, 20, 30 and 40 seconds, at above temperature all were turned yellow in the adhesive process. Therefore, the adhesive power could be said strong enough, though it was not very practical. In this experiment, the lower the temperature of iron is, the longer time it has to be touched. At higher temperature however, relatively short time makesn it possible for adhesion and depending upon the finishing methode of cloth, there is slight difference in adhesive power. As a result, the best adhesive condition for all experimental materials is $160^{\circ}C$of iron temperature, and the time of adhesion is between 30 and 40 seconds.