• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.11
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• pp.131-140
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability, antibacterial activity and deodorization on cotton and silk fabrics dyed with extracted solution from gardenia. The results are as follows: 1. The K/S value of silk fabrics was higher than that of cotton fabrics, and the K/S value was slightly increased by mordanting with $SnCl_2.2H_2O$ and $K_2Cr_2O_{7}$ on cotton and silk fabrics. 2. Cotton fabrics showed yellow from GY to Y and silk fabrics showed yellow or reddish yellow from GY to Y-YR. 3. The fastness to washing of cotton fabrics was very poor and that of silk fabrics was middle or lower, excluding good fastness to wool contamination of both fabrics. The fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing of both fabrics was very good. The fastness to perspiration of cotton fabrics was middle or higher, but that of silk fabrics was much better than that of cotton fabrics. The fastness to the light of both fabrics showed very poor with 1 grade. Dyeing fastness was slightly improved by mordanting on both fabrics. 4. Silk and cotton fabrics did not show antibacterial activity, but the activity of silk fabrics was higher than that of cotton fabrics. The antibacterial activity was increased by mordanting. 5. The deodorization of dyed cotton and silk fabrics was excellent, and that of silk fabrics showed better than that of cotton fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.7-7
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• 2001

This paper investigated the dyeability and surface color of silk and cotton fabrics dyed with chustnut bur extract. Some experiments were performed under the various dyeing conditions such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, repetition of dyeing, dyeing pH, mordanting condition, washing fastness and light fastness with silk and cotton fabrics. The results obtained were as follows 1. △E value was increased when dyeing temperature and time was higher, value of munsell was shifted from Yellow to Yellow-Red at hither dyeing temperature and time in silk and cotton fabrics. 2. Optimal dyeing pH was increased with acidity of dyeing solution in silk and cotton fabrics, and repetition of dyeing did not change the dye-uptake. 3. When mordanting time and temperature was higher, △E value was larger in silk and cotton fabrics. Silk and cotton fabrics with Fe-premordanting treatment had best dyeability, but treatment with Sn-mordanting was worst. 4. Washing fastness and light fastness was excellent in various dyeing condition at silk fabric but cotton was without practical use.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.93-103
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• 2001

This paper investigated the dyeability and surface color of silk and cotton fabrics deed with chustnut bur extract. Some experiments were performed under the various dyeing conditions such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, repetition of dyeing, dyeing pH, mordanting condition, washing fastness and light fastness with silk and cotton fabrics. The results obtained were as follows 1. $\Delta{E}$ value was increased when dyeing temperature and time was higher, value of munsell was shifted from Yellow to Yellow-Red at hither dyeing temperature and time In silk and cotton fabrics. 2. Optimal dyeing pH was increased with acidity of dyeing solution in silk and cotton fabrics, and repetition of dyeing did not change the dye-uptake. 3. When mordanting time and temperature was higher, $\Delta{E}$ value was larger in silk and cotton fabrics. Silk and cotton fabrics with Fe-premordanting treatment had best dyeability, but treatment with Sn-mordanting was worst. 4. Washing fastness and light fastness was excellent in various dyeing condition at silk fabric but cotton was without practical use.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1-9
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• 2004

The dyeings of cotton and silk fabric with Laurus tree extracts were investigated. The colorant was extracted with distilled water at $100^{\circ}C$ for lh. Dyeability(K/S), color fastness and antibacterial property of cotton and silk fabric were tested under conditions of various time, temperature, concentration, repeat-number of dyeing and mordants. The characteristics of dyeings Laurus extracts were figured out by K/S and CIELab values and color-fastness test was estimated in terms of wash fastness and light fastness. The maximum wavelength of spectrum was 670nm. The K/S value of cotton and silk fabric increased with increasing dyeing time and the exhaustion was saturated in 90min. Optical dyeing temperatures of cotton and silk fabrics were $60^{\circ}C$ and $80^{\circ}C$, respectively. The mordant effect on cotton fabric was achieved using Fe mordant. On the other hand, the mordant effect on silk fabric was obtained using Fe and Cu mordants. The wash fastness of cotton fabric was higher than that of silk fabric. Antibacterial property of silk dyeing was greater than that of cotton dyeing. In addition, the excellent antibacterial effect was imparted by Fe-post mordant method.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.17-23
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• 2003

Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy(FT-IR) was used to characterize the intermolecular ester crosslinkages in cotton cellulose. The FT-IR data show that the band of the ester carbonyl group can be separated from overlapping carboxyl/carbonyl band by converting carboxyl group to carboxylate. When esterification occurs between a polycarboxylic acid and cotton cellulose, the carbonyl groups retained in the cotton exist in three forms; ester, carboxyl, and carboxylate anion. The FT-IR data were also correlated to the durable press rating result obtained. The appearance of BTCA-finished durable press silk/cotton fabrics were improved.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.12-16
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• 2000

Silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with Parmelia tinctorium that is a kind of lichen. Dyeing solution was prepared by fermentation in aqueous ammonia solution. The effects of pH and temperature in dyebath on dyeability were investigated. The maximum K/S value of each dyed fabrics was showed in 480nm. Silk fabrics showed better dyeability than cotton. Silk fabrics dyed well in acidic or neutral dyebath at $80^\circ{C}$ and cotton fabrics in neutral dyebath at $50^\circ{C}$. Both of silk and cotton fabrics showed poor dyeability in basic dyebath because of colouring anionic groups in lichen. The Munsell values of dyed silk fabrics were appeared in R(red) range, and them of cotton fabrics in YR(yellow-red) range. Light fastnesses of dyed fabrics were as poor as 2 or 2-3 grades. Also, Laundering fastnesses of dyed silk fabrics were as poor as 2 grade and those of cotton fabrics were 3 or 3-4 grades. But dry-cleaning fastnesses of all dyed fabrics were good.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.16-24
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• 1995

Traditionally dyeing fabric with dyestuff extracted from Indigo was a popular method of obtaining blue color in the world before synthetic dyestuff was developed in the 1890's. As the Korean traditional process of dyeing extracted from Indigo, there are two kinds of dyeing process; The deposite dyeing of muddy Indigo and the leaf dyeing of Indigo plant. In order to study the properties of leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing properties, color difference on cotton and silk fabrics under several dyeing conditions were investigated. In the dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing affinity of silk was higher than that of cotton, the cotton and silk fabrics were dyed dark yellowish Green and dark Blue, respectively. the dye uptake increased with the increase of dyeing temperature and of the unmber of dyeing times. When cotton and silk fabrics dyed with leaf dyeing of Indigo at 6$0^{\circ}C$ for six number of times, the K/S value of dyed cotton and silk were calculated 1.286, 2.613 respectively.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.844-859
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• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.91-116
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• 2021

India has had a rich and diverse textile tradition since the 3rd millennium BCE. The origin of Indian textiles can be traced back to the Harappan period. Owing to the hot and humid climate in most parts of India, cotton has remained India's favourite choice of fabric for normal use. Thus, India is supposed to be the first nation to have grown, woven, and patterned cotton fabrics. Moreover, India is one of the leading cotton-growing countries in the world. The earliest occurrence of cotton thread in India is roughly datable to 4000 BCE and of dyed fabrics to about 2500 BCE. Large numbers of needles and spindle-whorls found in Harappa and other early historic sites in India reveal the prosperous state of textile production and its trade in the early period. The textile producers used a wide range of skills to process raw materials and make regionally idiosyncratic dyes, weaves, prints, and embroideries. Additionally, the silk from wild indigenous forms of silkworms was known in the Indian sub-continent roughly contemporary with the earliest clear archaeological evidence for silk in China. The analysis of thread fragments found inside a copper bangle and ornament from Harappa and steatite beads from Chanhu-daro, have yielded silk fibers dating to 2500-2000 BCE. Apart from other products, cotton and silk textiles were important export materials from India right from the Harappan period. Actually, the sea-borne trade had played an important role in the economic growth and prosperity of the Harappan civilization. Several ancient seaports in the entire coastline of India played a vital role in the maritime trade during the Harappan period and cotton and silk textiles of Indian origin have been found in various countries. The contemporary writings and epigraphy have also attested to the vast maritime trade network of India and the export of textile materials. The paper discusses in detail the origin and development of cotton and silk textile production in India through the ages and its role in maritime trade networks.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.6
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• pp.43-53
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• 2004

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the dyeability, antibacterial activity, and deodorization of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with extracted solution from Chrysanthemum boreale. The results are as follows： 1. The optimum conditions of dyeing temperature and time for the cotton fabrics were 90$^{\circ}C$ and 60minutes, while those of the silk fabrics were 60$^{\circ}C$ and 30 minutes respectively. 2. The K/S values of cotton fabrics were slightly higher than those of silk fabrics. The K/S values of both fabrics were slightly increased by mordanting with Cr but were decreased by mordanting with Cu and Fe 3. The colors of the cotton and silk fabrics changed from GY to Y. In both cases, the values of the fabric colors were lowered, and the values of the colors continued to be lowered with Cu and Fe. The chroma and color difference of both fabrics were high and were further increased by mordanting with Cu. 4. The fastness to dry-cleaning and rubbing of the cotton and silk fabrics was very good. The fastness to washing of both fabrics was good except when mordanted with Fe. The fastness to perspiration of both fabrics was fairly good, but the fastness to acid perspiration was poorer than that to the alkaline perspiration. The fastness to light of both fabrics was very poor. 5. The cotton and silk fabrics showed excellent antibacterial activity. Both fabrics mordanted with Cu showed perfect antibacterial activity. 6. The deodorization of the silk fabrics was very good, and that of the silk fabrics mordanted with Cu and Al was excellent, while the deodorization of the cotton fabrics was fairly good.