• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.147-165
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to examine various types and characteristics of masks and to consider what meanings they have in the recent fashion world. To this end, this study attempts to reflect on the internal meaning of masks exhibited in fashion designers' collections rather than functional meanings. It has an implication; in that it tries to help understand the expressive needs for variety and freshness pursued by modern fashion and use the unique design development to understand the internal meanings of masks. It, therefore, examines the existing domestic and foreign literature and data about masks from a theoretical perspective, and also attempts to draw findings from the data of fashion collections which have been held since the 2000s, as well as from literature research based on books about fashion and various other media. The meanings of masks in the field of fashion are as follows: First, they express identity, by criticizing the couture fashion, through the fashion. Second, they present a new concept of body, showing an illogical and ambiguous identity in which both feminine and masculine images coexist. Third, they are media externally communicating insights about human beings' inner world, through which various messages are transferred to modern people who are attached to external appearances, and the identities possessed by designers are revealed by the masks. Fourth, they ask about a boundary between gender and sexuality, as a means to make us concentrate on the important social issue, while expressing various and new identities, like the hybrid identity. In other words, they can be found to be used as effective media in communicating fashion massages intended by fashion experimental and creative designers.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.27-39
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• 2022

The purposes of this study were to develop cultural fashion products using Baekje traditional culture, and to examine the effects of product image and evaluative criteria on the purchase intention of cultural fashion products using Baekje traditional culture. The subjects were 500 adult consumers from their 20s to 50s. The research method was a survey, and the instruments were four stimuli, which were developed using Baekje traditional culture, and the questionnaire, consisted of product image, evaluation criteria, purchase intention of cultural fashion products, and the subjects' demographic characteristics. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, Cronbach's α, factor analysis, and regression analysis were performed. The results of this study were as follows. First, four handkerchief designs were developed as cultural fashion products, based on the results of a preliminary investigation of consumer behaviors toward cultural fashion products and thier preference of Backje relics. Second, three factors (attractiveness, uniqueness, and gentleness) emerged for images of cultural fashion products. Third, four factors (design characteristics, tourism characteristics, cultural symbolism and practicality) emerged for the evaluation criteria for cultural fashion products. Fourth, three image factors had significant positive effects on purchase intention. Especially, attractiveness had a greater effect than others. Fifth, the four evaluative criterion factors also had significant positive effects on purchase intention. Design characteristics had the greatest effect, followed by tourism characteristics, cultural symbolism, and practicality in order.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.117-133
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• 2022

In order to reflect traditional elements in modern design, designers should be able to creatively apply elements of traditional Chinese clothing. To understand this, a deep understanding of and insights into the traditional clothing culture are required. In this study, the characteristics of traditional Chinese women's clothing from the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties of China to the Qing Dynasty were analyzed by dividing them into silhouette, color, pattern, materials, and detail. The characteristics of the silhouette were classified into A, H, X, and O types, of which types A and H were the most common. As for the color characteristics, there are relatively many five cardinal colors, and for the contrast of colors complementary colors were mainly used. As the for pattern characteristics, real patterns, animal patterns, character patterns, geometric patterns, and mixed patterns were used. Four types of materials were mainly used: silk, hemp, cotton, and wool. The detail characteristics were also anlyzed by classifying them into collar, sleeve, neckband, and gusset. Based on the results of this analysis, a satisfaction survey was conducted on the design of modern Chinese women's clothing. The result of satisfaction with design elements showed that the images of vest and suit were most preferred, H and X silhouettes, and yellow and white were the most preferred. Geometric and plant patterns were preferred, as were silk and acetate materials. Based on the result of chi-square analysis of design element preferences according to the characteristics of the subject, there was no difference according to occupation, residential area, or income, and there were differences in silhouette, color, materials, and detail according to age.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.97-110
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to develop 3D pattern textile design of traditional Jogakbo motifs and fashion products using it. As a research method, first, through literature review, the three-dimensional representation of geometry on a plane with Jogakbo, design cases were examined. Second, through a survey, the purchase perception and design preference of Jogakbo cultural products was analyzed. Third, based on the results of the survey on color and print, the 3D pattern design for each type of Jogakbo is printed, and then textile fashion cultural products were developed. The results of this study are as follows. First, the reason why the public was not attracted to the purchase of cultural products was disatisfaction with practicality, unsuitable preference, price adequacy, aesthetics, and originality. Therefore, it was analyzed that quality, practicality, price, carry-on storage harmony and manageability, as well as aesthetic design were important factors for consumers. Second, the stereoscopic space on the plane expanded the two-dimensional plane space by forming a cube through the division and dissolution of geometry could be visualized using color expression of cubes of different brightness depending on the direction of light. Third, Jogakbo had eight types consisting of four detailed forms and three arrangement methods. The 3D pattern design could be developed through regular disolution and stereoscopic construction using Jogakbo's representative images for each type. In addition, it was found that it was easy to produce Jogakbo fashion products suitable for modern people through 3D pattern digital textile printing applying traditional colors.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.70-90
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• 2023

This study aims to use Art brut works-the artwork of the socially underprivileged and alienated-to influence social roles in fashion design, employing a formative expression method to promote social acceptance of diversity in the industry. The research method involved investigating Art brut's concept and evolution in domestic and foreign literature and previous studies. The formative characteristics of the movement were derived by analyzing the works of Art brut artist Johann Hauser. One hundred and twenty images of Johann's work were collected through online sources like the Gugging Museum's website, Christian Berst Gallery's website were developed as fashion design using the CLO 3D program. The formative characteristics of Johann's works appeared to be transparent overlapping, divisional decorativeness emphasized simplicity, and vibrant chromaticity. Based on this analysis, the results of the 3D digital fashion designs were as follows. First, the characteristics of the atypical objects and figures in Johann's works were applied to the design silhouette, revealing a uniquely beautiful form. Second, Johann used a method in which numerous line shapes overlap and fill the area. The point of connecting the work is expressed as a graphic pattern by decorating the lines of the hem and hem of the garment with piping or attaching overlapping straps on top of pants and dresses. Third, the combination of overlapping colors used in Johann's work is a color block design of fashion, which utilizes the formative fun.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.97-111
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• 2023

Dynamic orphism images expressed with abstraction and construction in color are often found in modern fashion. Orphism stressing color is one of the many art trends that influence fashion. This work aims to examin its expressive effects and characteristics that appear in fashion and provide basic materials for fashion design study. This study proceeds with the following steps. First, the study takes on a theoretical examination of the orphism trend using a literature review. Second, based on its results, modern fashion's expressive features influenced by orphism are analyzed. Third, the study draws expression effects in modern fashion from these characteristics. The study coverage is confined to domestic and foreign collections released in the 21st century. The study contents come from an Internet-base domestic and international database and published material, including dissertations and books. Orphism expression effects are found in the following ways in modern fashion. First, it lies in the abstraction effect of color. This feature arrays flat geometric figure on the clothing surface and applies a strong sense of color inside it, as if color has an abstractive structured design. Second, it gives a dynamic sense visually to the clothes all at once by stressing the relation among and between the colors with powerful contrast. Third, it has a collage effect of color. This effect develops into an organic combination composed of geometric plane figures with intense complementary colors in a single piece of clothing. Expression types that presents the orphism effect in fashion are divided into clothing showing traditional orphism characteristics faithfully and clothing expressing conventional orphism characteristics mixed with modern trends. Further developed orphism fashion can be classified by the playful type, with graffiti added onto an orphism color structure, and the destructive type, where traditional orphism color orders are taken apart and reformed into a new color order.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.61-76
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• 2024

The purpose of this study is the development of an experimental design that aims to implement three-dimensional fashion design by observing the human body, extracting and combining geometric shapes and forms, and focusing on attempts to decompose the geometry of the human body in art history. Considering the characteristics of fashion design, which inevitably reflect human images visually, this study considered works by deriving geometric shapes and forms of the human body and focusing on decomposition and combination to apply them to fashion design. The results obtained through the development of fashion design through decomposition and combination based on geometric human body analysis are as follows. First, geometric analysis of the human body as an object of expression continues from the history of Cubism to modern fashion design. Second, the geometric shapes of the human body that appear in contemporary fashion design maximize visual effects through three-dimensional composition, emphasizing simplicity while showing originality through various expressions. Third, when exploring the geometric shapes of a moving human body, it was possible to extract a wide variety of shapes and forms through drawing and simplifying the human body's movements. Fourth, the formative method of fashion design was introduced and used for the aesthetic combination of objects for fashion design through decomposition and combination. This study was able to show unique and diverse combinations of visually concise and ordered geometric shapes in the expression of fashion design by decomposing and combining them. The significance of these geometric forms is that they can diversify formative informativeness in the expression of fashion design with modern compositional beauty.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.232-246
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• 2024

This study examines options to revitalize a B2B textile trading platform, exploring user satisfaction and perceptions of the importance of several website features. Between June 8 and June 21, 2023, fashion studies majors and domestic fashion brand product planners were asked to use the website of an open B2B textile platform for 30 minutes and then evaluate its features by responding to a survey. The final sample for analysis wad comprised of 150 questionnaires. To analyze the key textile website features, a paired t-test, Importance-Performance Analysis (IPA), and multiple regression analysis were utilized. The analysis classified the key textile website features related to user importance and satisfaction into the following categories: convenience, appearance, product information, and uniqueness. An analysis investigation of the differences in importance and satisfaction for each website evaluation attribute found significant differences in 12 attributes. The IPA analysis revealed that attributes such as product reliability, quality, a convenient search function, and convenient page movement are highly important to users and garner high user satisfaction; these findings demonstrate the importance of maintaining these elements. Images on the main screen, the latest trend information, and product prominence attributes also garner high importance ratings, but result in low user satisfaction, which signifies extensive revision is required. Finally, user evaluation of the convenience, appearance, and product information of the website was found to affect user recommendation intention.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.283-295
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• 2011

This study deals with the interchange with art that is contained in the works of Yves Saint Laurent, and it is disclosed through his works that modern fashion is part of expressive art while pursuing creative function as a work of art. The study has been performed on the basis of the references, the pictures of his works and interviews posted in domestic and overseas fashion magazines such as Vogue, Fashion News, Mode & Mode, Gap, Collections, etc. Regarding the scope of this study, it specifically deals with works he created from 1958 until 2002, when he announced his last collection. The results of the study show that with respect to Post-Impressionism, his works were greatly affected by van Gogh(who had used colors as active media in depicting his internal mental state) which gave birth to gorgeous and handicraft-like 'Couture-style clothes'. With respects to Fauvism, the works of Matisse also had an impact on Yves Saint Laurent, who added a sense of fauvism in his works through the use of colors, motif, or full reproduction of images from paintings. We see the influence of cubism upon Laurent when we examine his works of 'clothes with artistic value,' which utilized applique, beaded decoration, patchwork, embroidered patterns, relief-like ornaments, etc. using motif or objet much as we see in the works of Picasso and Braque, artists who expressed a new dimension of the formative arts. Laurent's use of neoplasticism, or plainness of painting, demonstrates a new formative art on the three-dimensional human body by using the works of Mondrian, which consist of black lines and primary colors, although generally Laurent's 'neoplastic'works differed from the works of Mondrian by more actively utilizing the lines and colors when designing dress and its ornament. In addition, the paintings and poems of surrealism artists and poets were directly used in the clothes or their images were sometimes borrowed. In order to express respect toward the spirit of surrealism and its artists, the human body motifs such as lips and eyes(which were frequently used by the surrealism artists) were applied to embroidery, printing and beaded decoration. Finally, being inspired by such Pop artists as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Tom Wesselman, Laurent further emphasized the aesthetic value of the popular consumer image in his own work, resulting in the wide recognition of the designs of Yves Saint Laurent as representing the new wave of the Pop Art school.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.173-187
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the fetishist characteristics and the aesthetic values of glamour style based on the premise that fetishism is the theoretical root of glamour style expressed in fashion throughout history. The following results are from analysing fetishist characteristics of glamour style. First, luxury was analysed from an angle of commodity fetishism. Every culture develops images and stories that portray a world in which its ideals are realized: a paradise, a utopia, a golden age, etc. Consumer goods often serve as 'bridges to these ideals'. People thus can fantasize about owning the perfect life. Crucially, however, they must never get everything they picture. That is why luxuries often take on displaced meaning. Glamour gives the displaced meaning visual form, making it beautiful and real. Second, the attention on the glamour of luxury goods as a bridge to ideals is connected to the glamour icon who is simultaneously a consumer of these luxury goods and a producer of cultural goods. Glamour icons including the courtesan of the late 19th century, the actress of the 1930s' Hollywood golden age and today's celebrities appear to efface the traces of production and create fetishist images in culture. Through this artificial principle, the commodity-cum-glamour icon comes to life as a splendid image of spectacle. Third, masquerade and seduction were analysed from an angle of sexual fetishism. A magnificent image of masquerade as sexual fetishism is often equated with femininity, especially in Hollywood movies, because the artificial seduction of the feminine -namely glamour- can be effected by the absence or silence of being. That is to say, the aesthetic revelation of femininity coincides with the fleshing out of artificial signs. Masquerade and the seduction of the feminine are connected with glamour's artificial sensuality from this point. Fourth, since 1980's when homosexuality as sexual deviation resurfaced as a hot topic, sexual ambiguity and bisexual image have gained attention as perverse sexuality. Next came queer theory, which reduced gender itself to a matter of surface rather than depth. According to queer theory, gender itself can be revealed as a kind of drag act. Drag's imitative performance may reveal that womanliness is just about 'dragging up'. Queerness as a decadent play makes a connection with the wicked origins of glamour. From these characteristics, four aesthetic values were deduced: ostentatious luxury and mysterious idolatry by commodity fetishism, artificial sensuality and playful queerness by sexual fetishism.