• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.95-112
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• 2006

This study examines the Korean traditional and characteristic coloring through the color of Korean traditional embroidery. This research gives the chance to establish the cultural identity of Korea and presents the aesthetic standard of color images. Also, practical use of Korean traditional colors through this study provide opportunities which develope cultural merchandise in the world. were chosen as the references to analyzed the Korean traditional colors through gungsu: court embroidery, buddhist embroidery, everyday embroidery and clothing embroidery. Because this book published in commemoration of '20th General Conference and 21th General Assembly of ICOM' in 2004, which presented excellence of Asian culture. The color of these works were divided by 'Pantone Solid Color Chips' which organized by CMYK color system and categorized by Obangsaek. 'Gungsu' had vivid and splendid color sense which used strong and bright colors and 'buddhist embroidery' had mild and mysterious feelings which used low saturation.'Everyday embroidery' used the red color group frequently and 'clothing embroidery' had brighter colors comparing to other embroidery groups. The 'Chung(blue)' group had diverse color tone rather than one-tone color. This means that Koreans prefer the 'Chung' and used it regularly, also this color symbolized the racial characteristics. Even though 'Whang(yellow)' was prohibited because the color for emperor, in the case of embroidery, there were a variety of yellow colors from 'gold' to pale yellow and grayish yellow. The arrangement of colors in 'gungsu', tone on tone, complementary and bicolore coloring was used mostly which presented a strong and elegant color sense. On the other side, 'buddhist embroidery' used tonal coloring which gave gentle and noble feeling. 'Everyday embroidery' presented separation and accented coloring which was the example of common people's humor and originality. In the case of 'clothing embroidery', there was dominant lightness, separation, tone on tone and camaieu coloring which added gorgeousness in Korean traditional clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.754-763
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• 2018

This study examined the color reproducibility and color fastness of digital textile printing for nylon sublimation transfer. After measuring the temperature and time suited to nylon sublimation transfer, the researchers conducted various tests for comparison and analysis including polyester transfer paper on polyester fabric to check dyeing characteristics, color change, sharpness, and the rubbing fastness of the dyeing samples for nylon sublimation transfer. These tests produced the following results. At $185^{\circ}C$ and $187^{\circ}C$, the sublimation transfer dyeing characteristics of nylon were similar to those of polyester and the researchers even observed superior color development in some colors; at a low temperature of $180^{\circ}C$, the sample that was worked on had the lowest level of color development. The examination of color difference (${\Delta}E$), which compared $L^*a^*b^*$ values, showed that the ${\Delta}E$ value of magenta was 10.34, that of yellow was 24.70, and that of black was 15.28. These results highlight the important role of heat treatment temperature and time on color development in nylon sublimation transfer. Concerning sharpness, the samples subjected to higher temperature heat treatment exhibited fewer color spreading phenomena around lines. Thus, dyeing properties and fastness can be enhanced by elongating time at low temperatures and shortening time at high temperatures; however, considering production time constraints as well as the need to produce industrially marketable quantities, the findings of this study suggest that the heat treatment temperature most suitable for nylon sublimation transfer is $187^{\circ}C$ for a duration of 50 seconds.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.34-47
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• 2008

Recently, as popular interest in costumes in Korean films and TV dramas has increased, traditional dress in works has re-evaluated with modern perspective of the Western color system. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. First, the traditional dress for women appeared in works after the 2000s has shown features similar in the use of red has appeared high. The high frequency of brown and pink, orange and purple used main colors in Western works. Also, what is the most prominent is the high frequency of use of achromatic colors. Second, the color harmonies of the East and the West have been done through color arrangement. The structure with more than 2-colors has been gradually changing into single or 2-colors, which give simple images to people. Third, in order to portray characters' diverse and psychological situations, Korean works have expressed the symbolisms of colors from the Western perspective. Though red symbolizes theory of Yin-Yang and Five-Elements, passion and authority since 2000 have used red to make main images. Also, pink is used as softness and pure images. Though works before the 2000s showed low frequency of the brown. The achromatic color that it has been applied to various parts. Recently black has been developing into a color symbolizing themes. Given the results from this study, it could be expected in future that the categories of color domains will be gradually extended as it is a trend for the traditional dress to escape from primary colors. On the other hand, achromatic colors that minimal and modern sensibility as well as basic color in fashion, especially the black, will increasingly extend ranges of utility or show a tendency of resolute changes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.97-111
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• 2023

Dynamic orphism images expressed with abstraction and construction in color are often found in modern fashion. Orphism stressing color is one of the many art trends that influence fashion. This work aims to examin its expressive effects and characteristics that appear in fashion and provide basic materials for fashion design study. This study proceeds with the following steps. First, the study takes on a theoretical examination of the orphism trend using a literature review. Second, based on its results, modern fashion's expressive features influenced by orphism are analyzed. Third, the study draws expression effects in modern fashion from these characteristics. The study coverage is confined to domestic and foreign collections released in the 21st century. The study contents come from an Internet-base domestic and international database and published material, including dissertations and books. Orphism expression effects are found in the following ways in modern fashion. First, it lies in the abstraction effect of color. This feature arrays flat geometric figure on the clothing surface and applies a strong sense of color inside it, as if color has an abstractive structured design. Second, it gives a dynamic sense visually to the clothes all at once by stressing the relation among and between the colors with powerful contrast. Third, it has a collage effect of color. This effect develops into an organic combination composed of geometric plane figures with intense complementary colors in a single piece of clothing. Expression types that presents the orphism effect in fashion are divided into clothing showing traditional orphism characteristics faithfully and clothing expressing conventional orphism characteristics mixed with modern trends. Further developed orphism fashion can be classified by the playful type, with graffiti added onto an orphism color structure, and the destructive type, where traditional orphism color orders are taken apart and reformed into a new color order.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.825-837
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• 2007

To analyze the design of Christian Dior, 216 pieces of Dior's works were collected and studied from the COLLECTION(Seoul: Dong Ah TV) from 2003 to 2005. The result is as follows. In recent three year period, Christian Dior maintained the feminine image and implemented different additions such as sexy, ethnic, avant-garde and casual image in every season. Also, to reflect a new trend or fashion sense, images of ethnic, retro, hippie or vintage were applied. In using color, different main color(YR, R, Y, BG, RP, B) were chosen every season to pursue variations. For the pattern usage, feminine beauty was presented by numerous applications of flowered pattern. Also the practice of pattern and hue in different rations in every season pursued variations in design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.323-333
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to analyze the meaning and formative features of the black color reflected on the fetish fashion. This study was proceeded mainly by analyzing with references and plates of magazine. The results of the study were as follows ; First, the sexual liberation and revolution have certainly led to a reassessment of sexual deviations, which changed the meaning of fetishism that has been only regarded as sexual perversion, so that it symbolied a new sexual perception and identification. As the result, black in fetish fashion was symbolized a new fetishism\`s definition which refused to distinguish male from female, and also reflected the meaning to express the second sex that wanted to express themselves. Second, the formative features of black color in fetish fashion have appeared tightness and bareness in form, and in material, glancing materials changed by the effect of light, and elasticity materials-leather, rubber, PVC, and laycra. By these features, black fetish fashion has drawn a higher attention on human body than the dress itself as a symbol about the psychology of erotic sensations and sexual images of the self appearing in black color.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.257-269
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• 1998

Comparison the literature of Korean Shroud with Current Shroud are as follows. 1. The Mo(冒) and m were not included in current shroud. Onang(五囊), Ch'im(枕), Kum(衾) and Kyo(絞) were included in current shroud. 2. Terms of the current shroud were various than the literature of korean shroud. 3. The cloths of the literature of korean shroud were Chu, Chung, P'o(布), Ch'o and Kyon, etc. But the cloths in the current shroud were Myongchu, Sambe and Kongdan. The color of the literature of korean shroud were various, but in the current shroud was light color center upon the white color. 4. The shape of the current shroud was various.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.77-94
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• 2015

Much western philosophical thinking is constrained by ocularcentrism. Hence, multi-sensory experiences hold the most prominent position in contemporary art, and visual tactility, where feelings of touch through sight, become a powerful medium of expression in fashion. This study analyzes visual tactility in Alexander McQueen's design, where design elements are in focus. This investigation aims to bring the concept of visual tactility in fashion, and by doing so, enhance valuable aesthetic possibility. The result of the study is as follows: First, Creative silhouette is something that is constructed by his impeccable cutting and tailoring skills. In fabrics, he often suggests unconventional materials by uncompromising approach to fashion. Color contrasts refer to color sensibility, which reminds of grotesque image. McQueen's aggressive aesthetic awareness results in visual tactility in fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.21
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• pp.49-59
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• 1993

Actual conditions of current shroud are as follows. 1. The kinds of shroud in formal funeral cer-emonies were more variable than infor-mal ceremonies. 2. The cloths of the shround were all Myongchu or all Sambe inside and outside or the inside was Sambe and the outside was Myongchu. The color was light color center upon the white color and black Kongtan was used mostly in Myokmok. 3. Terms of the shroud were different in each region. 4. The kinds of recommended men's shroud were Ch ksam, Ch kori, Naeko, Ko, Torumaki, Topo, Topotae, Mal, Myokmok, Aksu, Ch'im, Ch' nkum, Chiyok, Ryomp'o, Soryomkum, Haengch n, Onang, Tae, Taennim, Pokk n, Kwatu, tec. And the kinds of recommended women's shroud were Ch ksam, Ch kori, Soksokkos, Ko, Tansokkos, Naesang, Oesang, Turumaki, Wonsam, Wonsamtae, Mal, Myokmok, Aksu, Ch'im, Ch' nkum, Chiyok, Ryomp'o, Onang, Soryomkum, Kwatu, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.91-101
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• 2002

In order to development of culture goods I made works with various color's silk fabrics dyed with water extract or methanol extract of plants. The Plants used for dyeing as dyeing material were indigo, safflower, amur cock tree, onion's Peel, citrus peel, mugwort, gromwell, sappan wood. Each of Plants were extracted by each of temperature and time. The mordants used for various color chanties are aluminium sulfate, cupric acetate mono hydrate, ferrous chloride. With fabrics of various color dyed like this I made works which give expression to an easy and natural image of the Korean nation of fabrics.