• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.611-628
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• 2017

As a plan for establishing Korea's cultural identity and its competitive edge in the world market and for enhancing Korea's cultural status, creative and unique high value-added cultural products need to be developed utilizing our inherent cultural assets. Accordingly, this study focused on the development of the design of fashion cultural products that utilize the convergence of Hangeul our peculiar font style and Korea's cultural heritage, which is registered as part of UNESCO's World Heritage. A design method was devised that converges archetypal images of cultural property with the unique Hangeul font in a way that targets Korea's symbolic architectures. The symbolic architecture includes Korea's world-heritage pagoda architecture, such as Seokgatap pagoda and Dabotap pagoda at Bulguksa temple. It also included the architecture of royal palace, such as Injeongjeon hall at Changdeokgung palace. Finally, it also included the architecture of the fortress wall, such as Paldalmun gate in Hwaseong fortress. Thus, by developing cultural assets made from a convergence between architecture and the Hangeul font as a consumer-product image that has universality, the possibility of cultural products was pursued by applying color planning after an analysis that involved extracting the compositional colors of the flags of the world. This research and approach will lead to opportunities for further progress for Korea's cultural products in the global market as a results of additional recognition for their value, excellence, and universal appeal.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.103-121
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• 2002

This study intended to analyze the transition of design of Korean soccer player's uniform according to development of the society and changes in formative elements, and examine features inside them by considering designs of soccer player's uniform by ages ranging from the introduction of soccer up to now. Results of the study are summed up below. First, as a result of analyzing designs of soccer player's uniforms from 1920 to 2002 Korea-Japan WorldCup based on formative elements of the style of dress. \circled1 it is shown that basic shape has been kept but changes in only color. cutting, trimming, logo and symbol have existed. \circled2 Colors of the uniforms have been different according to ages but red, blue and white colors have been used most and sometimes black was employed. so it is known that colors in the Korean national emblem have been all used. \circled3 In the beginning of the uniform there was a limitation in its design due to absence of functional materials but now highly-sensitive textile products and highly-functional textile materials guaranteeing optimal condition and highest activity of a soccer player have been utilized in various ways. \circled4 It is known that symbols modelling the image of Korea have been used in diverse ways but effected much by directions toward images pursued by designers of sponsors. Second, the meanings represented by designs of the uniforms are classified into a degree of symbolizing Korea, tradition, superiority and dynamics. That is to say, \circled1as colors and symbols coming from the emblem have been used in the uniforms. they have symbolized one nation and possessed the meaning representing even Korean national spirit. \circled2As traditional colouring and symbols have been used in the uniforms, they have shown the Korean sense of a beauty. \circled3 Colors, tones and designs overwhelming the mood of play have been used in the uniforms, so that they have played a role in making players of other team flinch mentally and making Korean players gain an advantage over them. \circled4 Thanks to strong symbols or comparative effects of colors. they have shown the dynamics representing power and energy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.97-111
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• 2004

To study the clothing names has been one of the research subjects in the history of clothing since the name could be the basic tool to understand the clothing. In the past, the name of clothing were used in Chinese character which is hieroglyphic. Each character of Chinese has special meaning. They had been changed into Korean after Korean characters were invented. During the period when they were changed into Korean, some of them retained the original meaning while others widened the original meaning. Some of them even translated into totally different meaning. Accordingly, it could be a clue to survey the changing process of Chinese names into Korean by analysing the vocabulary in the books published in Choseon dynasty. In this study, the first step is to survey the children's Chinese vocabulary learning material, Hunmongahoe(1527), Sinzeungliuhap(1576) and Ahackpyun(1804). These books were widely used from 16 to 19 centuries. It has been surveyed how the meaning of clothes names has changed and the special features of changed names. The names appeared in these Chinese vocabulary learning books included headgear, footwear, dress, part names of dress, ornaments, color and names of textile. The followings are observed by studying the names appeared in more than two books above： 1. The same Chinese character were translated differently. 2. Recently the meaning of Chinese character has been reduced or changed into new Chinese character. 3. Some of them retained the same meaning but used different character. It has been observed that some clothing names retained the original meaning but others changed the meaning, or translated into different names. It shows that the appropriate meaning of names should be properly selected when we study the history of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.1
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• pp.135-154
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to research the characteristics and types applied to Korean and foreign luggage brands, and then develop pattern designs for the luggage by applying Korean cultural contents that meet the various fashion needs of travel goods. To select the Korean and foreign luggage brands, a web search was utilized by inputting the keyword, 'luggage brand'. The results, which were extracted from 200 web documents, produced 27 Korean brands and 29 foreign brands that met the requirements. For the data analysis, images and contents were collected through luggage brand websites, and then 927 pattern designs were extracted. The results were as follows. First, characters, figures, animals, and plants were commonly used for the pattern design motifs applied to Korean and foreign luggage. A notable trend was that these motifs were expressed in a stylistic way with a graphic touch. Also, a singular point was formed from the luggage overall, and regularly repeated patterns were very common as well. Secondly, pattern designs for luggage were developed through the application of 'Hangul', 'Hanbok', and 'Hanok'. Nine kinds of patterns were designed via the phases of change into a vector image and color adjustments, and were simulated in luggage design. Adobe Photoshop CS 7.0, and Adobe Illustrator CS 5.0 programs were used for the pattern designs and simulations. This study is meaningful in that it suggested pattern designs for different kinds of luggage in the motifs of Korean cultural contents. It can be used as a useful reference, as we are in a time period where travel goods have become individualized, advanced, and fashionable, as well as laying stress on original design based on cultural interpretation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.4
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• pp.61-75
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• 2015

This research aims to analyze the prep-hop fashion, which is an original look created through the convergence of the hip-hop and preppy look, and identify the design characteristics of the prep-hop fashion. The style mixes the fashion of what was traditionally a lower-class look with the upper class. The design characteristics are as follows: First, the prep-hop fashion expresses slim, casual and sophisticated look with items and silhouettes. The items are categorized into jackets, shirts and pants. The prep-hop jackets provides a casual look to its wearer unlike the jackets of preppy or conservative looks. Slim suits show different meanings and features depending on the changes in the time and culture despite the continued use of the items. Second, the colors of the prep-hop fashion include overall basic colors used in the preppy look and hip-hop fashion. The aesthetic values of the colors express pleasant color images different from the conservative and resistant images expressed in the preppy and hip-hop style before the convergence, respectively. Third, the materials and patterns are expressed in a unique way to fulfill the emotional needs that are considered vital to contemporary fashion. The materials in the prep-hop fashion extend the ranges of usage by using the materials with unexpectedness broken out of general range of usage. While the use of the patterns is one of the methods to demonstrate that the prep-hop fashion is created by the convergence between hip-hop fashion and preppy look, the meaning concludes pleasantness and casualness different from the past. Fourth, the prep-hop fashion is mainly composed of hip-hop fashion accessories, which express the authenticity of the hip-hop fashion to protect the non-mainstream characteristics. The design characteristics of the prep-hop fashion pursue the individuality of the contemporary fashion, which lacks originality due to commercialization. The development of the prep-hop fashion, as a new form that combined contrasting genres and trends, is expected to develop more publicly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.131-145
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide preliminary data on strategies to create a domestic prestige brand based on Korean traditional designs. This study also deals with how to promote this brand around the world. The two points mentioned above will be accomplished by examining the characteristics of the brand '3.1 Phillip Lim' which succeeded in both design and marketing during a short period of time. The method of the study will be followed. Firstly, the basic design and philosophical background of Phillip Lim was investigated, after reviewing the global luxury market and current status of overseas expansion of Korean designers through paper study and antecedent workups. Secondly, for the practical stage, design characteristics and marketing strategies were reviewed with the collections of '3.1 Phillip Lim'. Three factors found in '3.1 Phillip Lim's design success are as follows: First, practical and simple designs using fabrics of high quality. Second, handcraft elements and interesting details that differentiates his design identity. Third, femininity expressed in the feminine silhouette and color. The marketing elements that made '3.1 Phillip Lim' as a successful brand are: First, differentiated positioning as a luxurious contemporary brand. Second, brand promotion through various collaborations. Third, the gradual expansion of women's, men's, kids' apparel to accessory, lingerie and the stable flagship stores. Thus, '3.1 Phillip Lim' has combined modern and classic styles using high quality fabrics and practical designs with unique details. Through it's differentiated marketing strategy targeting New York's market, which prefers popular 'luxury contemporary brand's rather than high-end luxury brands, this brand's creativity and commercial aspects contributed to make '3.1 Phillip Lim' into a luxury brand that represents New York fashion. Korean designers who seek to enter the global fashion industry should consider applying Korean traditional designs on global designs to make favorable products and localize these products according to regional characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.41-53
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• 2012

Hwangnamdaechong Tomb (The 98th tomb in Hwangnam-dong), one of the royal tombs located around the area of royal tomb of King Michu in Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, is currently designated as Historic Site No. 40. It is assumed that Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is a royal tomb of the early 5th century. This study aims to examine the fabric relics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb and currently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. The types of fabrics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb include plain silk, warp-faced compound woven silk, and hemp cloth. Most of these fabrics are adhered to metal products that became rusty. Plain silk found in Hwangnamdaechong Tomb can be divided into four types by its weaving method. Geum excavated from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is typical Gyeong Geum that uses colored warp for its base and pattern. It is plain Gyeong Geum that the binding weft and warp is plain woven. Although there are a lot of Gyeong Geum fabrics whose colors are hard to define due to yellowing after long years, there are still many fabrics whose color such as purple, red, blue, and green can be identified. As literatures have shown that p cloth as well as silk were frequently woven during Silla dynasty, tremendous amount of hemp cloth was excavated. Most of the hemp cloth has S-twist in the warp and 8-12 seung degree of delicacy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.45-60
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• 2007

Characteristics of Hanbok's traditional coloration have been carried on, based on social/cultural background of the past. Today, Hanbok is classified as traditional Hanbok, improved Hanbok, living Hanbok. Their designs, materials and colorations show significant differences. In this study, first, we have categorized and arranged the coloration trend of the women's Hanbok according to the types of coloration since 2000s. Secondly, Hanbok is classified as traditional Hanbok, improved Hanbok, and living Hanbok. And then examining their coloration trend and coloration characteristics of different types of Hanbok, so we can find the purpose far increasing understanding of various color beauty and coloration of today's Hanbok. The findings of this research are summarized as follows; 1. Traditional Hanbok coloration is influenced by the modern rotor and tone, and is apt to show the trend of emphasizing individuality. 2. Hanbok coloration of middle period in 2000's has become to use high value and chroma, giving more bright and luxurious impression then the early period. 3. For this study, we have categorized the total of 277 women's Hanboks by their coloration trends, through studying traditional Hanbok catalogues that enclosed vividly colored pure silk samples. As a result, it shows the order of contrary coloration(149), tone on tone coloration(56), similar coloration(23), monochrome coloration(20), tone in tone coloration(17), and 화학섬유chrome coloration(12). 4. Traditional, improved and living Hanbok show differences not only in their designs or materials but also in colorations. Using of traditional coloration is applied to traditional Hanbok and improved Hanbok in that order, and mostly the value and chroma of living Hanbok colorations are low, which emphasizes easiness to move and practicality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.18-29
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• 2007

Since its birth, "Little black dress" that has been prospering and reviving continually for 80 years, is always favored as classical fashion item. This study focuses on how the "Little black dress", regarded as the beginning of the modern fashion, could become an eternal item over a century by analyzing the aesthetical characteristics of it. Thus, we can better understand the modern women and aesthetic value of modern fashion. The precedented studies and literatures are reviewed for recognizing the development of "Little black dress," and the scope of this study is limited only after the year 2000. Also, fashion work collections and various domestic and international fashion magazines are analyzed demonstratively. After the Little Black Dress was born with the bullish black color in the year 2000, the aesthetic characteristics of the newly spotlighted Little Black Dress in the modern fashion are as the following. First is modernism. Modern style of black dress is appeared through simple and moderate expressions such as pursuit of simple line, minimization of decoration and exclusion of accessories. Second is sensuality that emphasizes flashiness of black by gloss or see-through fabric and exposing one's body parts or dress that exposes body's curves not only express women's physical attraction but also show off woman's social status or roles. Third is feminism. Ruffle, ribbon, flowing-like fabric, and rhythmical details express charms of sophisticated and trendy women as well as romantic image of girlish sensibility. Fourth is hybridism. Experimental and creative thinking like designers' unique re-interpretation of "little black dress," fresh view to sexuality, breaking up of the existing principle of clothing compositions give wholly new aesthetic value.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.48-61
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• 2008

This study aimed to examine emo fashion, a very recent music-related fashion trend spreading fast amongst youths, and understand emo ideas and methods of expression for a greater understanding of contemporary youth sub-cultures and fashion trends. Documentary research, positive research and in-depth interviews were used throughout the study. 4 Korean emo bands and 4 U.S. emo bands were selected based on music chart rankings, and a total of 37 photographs from the bands' Internet websites were selected, and their clothes shown in the photographs were examined. 5 Korean emo band musicians were subjects of in-depth interviews, and they were asked about their emo culture, music, fashion, ideas and styles, and photographs were taken of the subjects and evaluated, too. Lastly, Korean and U.S. emo kids were studied through photographs, and comparatively analyzed. Both Korean and U.S. emo musicians wore slim silhouettes, skinny jeans, t-shirts, sneakers, black, studded belts and plastic-framed glasses. Korean fashion expressed a less depressive atmosphere with color and other details compared to the United States, and did not prefer dark black eye make-up, which United States emo style appeared to express frequently. Korean musicians' emo fashion was closer to other youth fashions, whereas U.S. emo fashion included more formal styles such as ruffled shirts and pin-striped vests. Korean emo kids wore clothes not much different from most Korean youths, but U.S. emo kids wore a lot of eye make-up and black t-shirts with graphic or skull prints, and had more geometrical hair styles, as if cut at home. The reasons for such differences were found to be a longer emo music and culture history in the United States leading to more elaborate fashion expressions and a difference in the states of mind, such as Korea pursuing to express love, and the United States pursuing loneliness.