• 복식
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• 제64권1호
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• pp.152-164
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• 2014

Korean people have revered the white color and enjoyed wearing white clothes. Various kinds of white clothes have been worn by the Korean people, ranging from everyday wear(便服), and scholar's robe(深衣) for the upper class, to religious costumes like Buddhist monk's robe(僧服), shaman costumes(巫服) and costumes for ancestral rites(祭服), or mourning(喪服). There have been many differing opinions by historians regarding the background of this Baekeuihosang(白衣好尙, the preference for white clothing) tradition and even now, it is frequently being discussed. This study aims to consider and discuss the background of this Baekeuihosang tradition, focusing on Chang-seon Yoo's Baekeuigo(白衣考, the consideration of white clothing), which was published in Dong-A Ilbo in 1934. The purposes of studying literature such as the Baekeuigo is to analyze the arguments on the origin of Baekeuihosang, to analyze Chang-seon Yoo's claim of its origin, and to discuss the culture of Baekeuihosang. Chang-seon Yoo claimed that the existing discussions on the background of Baekeuihosang based on the lack of dyes, or undeveloped technique, economic privation and national control strayed from historical facts, according to literature review. It is not worth discussing the farfetched arguments such as the use of costumes for ancestral rites as everyday wears, or the nation of sorrow. Baekeuihosang tradition mostly originated from the effects of many religions and the taste for innocence, or naturalness. White clothes were infused with the sorrow and emotion of Korean people and were also worn to show resistance to foreign power as symbols of ethnicity. Therefore, there should be a new view of the discussion of white clothes and Korean aesthetic sense, away from the logic distorted by the Japanese colonial view of history.

• 복식
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• 제64권1호
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• pp.64-76
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• 2014

This study aimed to analyze the expressive characteristics of design elements and fashion images shown in wedding dress styles in the 2000s. The findings were as follows. First, in wedding dress style the fashion images analysis showed that classic images appeared the most frequently, and fantastic, modern, kitsch, sexy, futuristic and ethnic images appeared the most, respectively. Second, design elements analysis of fashion images concluded that as for the appearance frequency of the silhouette, A line was the highest in classic, fantastic and kitsch images and H line was the highest in ethnic, modern, futuristic and sexy image. As for the appearance frequency of the necklines, bared top neckline was the highest in all of the fashion images. As for waistlines, natural waistlines except modern image of obscure waistlines appeared the most frequently in all of the images. As for sleeve, sleeveless appeared the most frequently in all of the images. As for material, see-through was the highest in ethnic, classic, sexy, fantastic and kitsch images. Luster material was the highest in modern and futuristic image. As for colors, white and achromatic, traditional wedding dress color, appeared the same in all of the seven fashion images, but chromatic colors appeared the most frequently in ethnic images. Third, the distinguishing expression features of fashion images shown in the wedding dress style of the times is as follows: 'Total fashion in wedding dress style', 'Emphasizes sexy image expression in wedding dress style', 'Various co-existence of wedding dress style', and 'Avant-garde expression in wedding dress style'.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.55-68
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• 2003

The purpose of this research is to expand the realm of a button for a decorative purpose through embossing the effect and gravity of a button in fashion by designing the new ceramic buttons which are mainly used for decorative function in costume. In order to acquire a motif for the design, I analyzed several works of Gustav Klimt. As the result, those feature can be classified into the use of decorative lines, mosaic forms, and harmony of golden yellow and black, and it can be applied to buttons and clothes design. The sort of clay used in manufacturing the ceramic buttons was white clay to have high density and to diffuse light well, and press shaping techniques using plaster mold were employed. The baking was performed in an electronic kiln at $800^{\circ}C$ for the first time and at $1250^{\circ}C$ for the second time. Based on wearable designs in 2002/2003 F/W Trend of Interfashion Planning, I made three pieces of dress which could express the button's capability of decoration with effect. This is expressing a simplified form which shows up in details of and yellow and red pink were used to harmonize with golden yellow clothes. As an application of shapes of foliage in I transformed its size and form to be consistent with a jacket and a tube top. To accord with golden beige costume, I made a curve, showing up in Klimt's paintings, with golden color on a circle shape which was also a main motif in his paintings.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.129-143
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• 2006

This study is to review the printed cotton textile industry of Europe in 17th-l8th century, and specially investigate the development of the Toile do Jouy, printed French fabrics around the 18th century. Generally, the Toile de Jouy has two different meanings. The first meaning is the popular printed cotton textiles producted by wood block printing, copper plate printing and roller printing techniques at Jouy on Joas factory in France, around 18th century. The second meaning is the monochromatic upholstery fabrics printed by copper plate. Actually, this monochromatic printed textiles were the most popular printed cotton fabrics with large scale scenic designs with people, trees, birds, buildings, mythical heroes, protagonists of novel and country scenes of shepherds, sheep and other animals manufactured by Jouy on Joas factory. Main issue of this paper is to propose features of pattern, color and classify types of patterns expressed on the Toile de Jouy fabrics according to printing techniques such as wood block printing, copper plate printing and copper roller printing. And this study is also to analyze on origins of the variety of names called the printed cotton textiles in those days. The results of this study can help to understand the knowledge of printed cotton textiles in Europe and be effectively applied to develop printed fabric design in the textile industry.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.87-100
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• 2006

The objectives of this research were to investigate the relationship between purchase behavior and consumer dissatisfaction of cosmetics at internet shopping malls, and to examine how the purchase behavior and consumer values influence the consumer dissatisfaction. Subjects were 212 females in Seoul who had experiences of cosmetic shopping at internet shopping malls. Consumers showed highest dissatisfaction when the purchased cosmetics were different from the products showed at internet shopping malls. The dissatisfaction with consuming system was higher than buying system or transporting system. The higher the expense and frequency of cosmetic purchase, the lower the consumer dissatisfaction of buying system. Females of 18 to 24 years old purchased color cosmetics more than females of 25 to 39 years old did. Females of 25 to 39 years old purchased functional skincare products more than females of 18 to 24 years old did. The cosmetic purchase expense of older groups was higher than that of younger one. The more consumers spent time on the internet, the more frequent they bought the cosmetics at internet showing mall. Consumers were most willing to buy basic skincare products at the internet shopping mall (42.9%). The consumer dissatisfaction with cosmetics at internet shopping malls was influenced the most by the happiness value(-) and the next by the responsible value, the frequency of cosmetic purchase at internet shopping malls(-) in order.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.121-132
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to analyze the Korean Formative-Artistic Characteristics which were expressed by Hanbok designers. In this research, Hanbok style is a combination of two main things: formative-artistic factors of the Korean past, which naturally focuses on the peculiarity of the tradition and the modern aspects of clothing. Hanbok fashion is defined as all products created by Hanbok designers that incorporate traditional design factors, but do not follow it exactly. There are four formative-artistic characteristics of Korean designs in the Hanbok fashion. The first is the practical usage of the form and the second is the application of texture, color and patterns of materials which are synonymous with traditional Korean costumes; the third, by utilizing specific features, such as a the string of Jeogori(jacket), the round line of Jeogori sleeve, quilting, slit of Dofo (coat), the line of goreum and git (collar), the beauty of the Hanbok can be expressed in various ways; finally, the decorations added to the clothing, like embroidery, dying, patchwork, and beaten silver have been used to express Korean beauty in a modern sense. At the conclusion of the research, the study suggests the following recommendations to upgrade the Hanbok designs and the Hanbok industry. The first recommendation is that continuous design research be done for the development and popularity of the brand image; secondly, collaboration with specialists from other areas of fashion would be beneficial; thirdly, it would be a positive development if Hanbok designers studied Western clothing; and fourthly, Hanbok materials should continue to evolve and be developed.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.93-103
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• 2010

The results of comparison and analysis of dynamical features according to Jacquard structure are as follows. Regarding elongation(E) value in tensile property, the value in the direction of course was found to be larger in all Jacquard structure, except floating Jacquard, than the direction of wale. It could be found that, as to bending strength(B) in Bending Property, the value of bending strength in the direction of course smaller in all the textile(structure) except floating than the direction of wale, so that the ability of curve formation is excellent. And in case of floating Jacquard, it showed the smallest value in the direction of course and wale, so that it was interpreted as Jacquard having a soft feel. Blister Jacquard showed the highest value in both directions of course and wale, so that it was evaluated as Jacquard having the hardest touch. With regard to shearing character(G) and shearing hysteresis(2HG) in Shearing Property, Jacquard indicated the lowest value, so it was evaluated as the textile(structure) having high drape the transformation of whose fabric is easy. In addition, normal Jacquard, transfer Jacquard, blister Jacquard showed a high value, so that it could be known they are Jacquards having stiff touch. The study implies that normal Jacquard, bird's eye Jacquard, etc., which well stretch in the direction of a course like tubular Jacquard course, is better to make the margin a little shorter than the basic margin, and Jacquard that well stretches in the direction of wale like ladder's back Jacquard and floating Jacquard is better to make the margin longer and the length shorter than the basic margin.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.29-39
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• 2011

The purpose of this study provides a high consumer-oriented wedding dress on the consumer and offering the consumer-oriented product and provide a basis data to develop a wedding shops so it can stable and manage of effective marketing. Wedding shop for a survey of consumer preference, and based on this wedding dress designed and made. The results are summarized as follows. First, when wearing wedding dresses and "graceful and feminine" image that seek to pursue an image that showed the highest response, "simple and stylish", "cute and vivid" image was in order. In the survey of wedding dress preference, lace is preferred, in tone of color white is preferred by and large. In silhouette, A-line is preferred most, in neckline, exposure of the shoulder, in sleeve length, sleeveless, in decoration, beads. Second, on the basis of these results, depending on the image to pursue the design, wedding was made of 3 creations. The work I is a target of the early 20s, the concept "simple and stylish", and A-line is adopted in silhouette focusing on modern simplicity, soft satin material used of high class. The work II is a target of the late 20s, the concept "cut and vivid", and fit-and-flare made of many folded tulle mesh material. The work ill is a target of the 30s overall, the concept "graceful and feminine", and high-waist- empire-line is adopted in silhouette, splendid lace material used, is of the gorgeous and mature beauty.

• 복식
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• 제55권3호
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• pp.59-68
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to examine the changing process of hairstyle and the fashion trend of hairstyle in the environment where it is possible to change one's hairstyle easily arid .display oneself in various ways and the interest in hairstyle is increasing. To examine the change of real university girls' hairstyle, I selected commencement pictures of Chungnam University as material. As a method of analysis, I compared and anaylized each time period's fashion trend and the change of real university girls' hairstyle after abstracting formative element of hairstyle on the basis of preceding studies on hairstyle and measuring frequency by element of each time period. Analyzing university girls' pictures showed that many of them had curls when various perms appeared and majority of them had straight style when straight perm and magic iron appeared. When products of hairstyling were on the market and globalization changed sense of beauty, it was highly popular to set up forelock with hairstyling products. In a pluralistic social environment, desire for color aspect other than formative aspect increased. As various hairdyes were developed, hairdyeing was generalized and university girls came to accept it as natural. Fashion trend of each time period and university girls' hairstyle showed generally similar trend. In mid 1980s, curl was popular, and, in late 1980s, straight style and setting up forelock with hairstyling products were on the increase. In early 1990s, the emergence of coating perm which combined perm and hairdyeing increased hairdyeing. In late 1990s, straight style was popular and layers expressed naturalness. In early 2000s, university girls showed off their long hair in various ways and hairdyeing drastically increased.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권6호통권59호
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• pp.1023-1036
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• 2005

The heightened consumers' interest in health and well-being gave rise to the needs for performance infants' wear, which are made with environmentally-friendly and healthy functional materials. This study intends to compare purchasers and non-purchasers of performance infants' wear in terms of their shopping behavior, shopper and infants' characteristics, and reasons for purchasing or not purchasing performance infants' wear. A total of 241 questionnaires were collected from women with infants less than 4 years old, who are living in the Seoul metropolitan area. Using SPSS 10.0, chi-square, paired t-test, and descriptive statistics were calculated to analyze the data. The results of the study were as follows: First, the purchasers of performance infants' wear shopped more often at department stores and were more likely to buy comparatively high-price products than non-purchasers. Second, for performance infants' wear, non-purchasers considered laundry/care methods and fiber contents more, while purchasers considered colors, design, price, and performance of the products less than for infants' wear in general. Third, in terms of demographic characteristics, significant differences were found for the number of children and the child's birth order. Fourth, the primary reason for buying performance infants' wear was 'health'. The primary reason for not buying was 'too high price' and 'lack of information'. The 'high price compared to its performance' and 'lack of color choice' were among the purchasers complaints about performance infants' wear.