• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.23-30
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• 2021

This study is an experiment to evaluate the anti-atopy efficacy of five kinds of natural plant essential oils; Artemisia annua L. (AA), Citrus junos Sieb. ex TANAKA (CJ), Chrysanthemum boreale Makino (CB), Pinus koraiensis (PK), and Pinus densiflora for. erecta (PD). Through Agar diffusion test, five species of native plant essential oils were treated in a total of four strains, Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Candida albicans. In order to invest the anti-inflammatory effect, five kinds of natural plant essential oils were treated in HaCaT cells-induced by TNF-α and IFN-γ (TI). AA, CJ, CB, PK and PD showed antibacterial effects on Candida albicans at a concentration of 10 mg/mL. We also found that the thymus and activation-regulated chemokine (TARC) expression was suppressed in 0.1 ㎍/mL of PK, 1 ㎍/mL of AA, CB, and PK. macrophage-derived chemokine (MDC) expression was suppressed in 1 ㎍/mL of AA and PK. IL-6 expression was suppressed in 0.1, 1 ㎍/mL of AA, PK in HaCaT cells. Hence it suggests that AA, CB, and PK have the anti-inflammatory effects, and it could contribute to atopic dermatitis relief by reducing the infiltration of immune cells to inflamed area.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.273-280
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• 2021

The water resistance is important factor for sunscreen formulations. Generally a sunscreen cream was formulated by a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion. In the W/O emulsion system, silicone oils are added to improve the texture of formulations. Silicone oils have low compatibility with organic sunscreen agent, causing problems with the stability in emulsion. In this study, the compatibility between various oils in the W/O emulsion was derived numerically using Hansen solubility parameter (HSP) at first. HSP is represented a dispersion degree, a polarity, and a hydrgen bond in a composition. In this study, various emulsions were prepared according to the types of oils with different HSP values and then monitored by a viscosity and morphology according to the time and temperature. The HSP values of components and the experimental results have similar activities for the stability of emulsions. HSP made it easy to select oil with high compatibility. When the compatibility of the oil phase in the W/O emulsion was high, the viscosity change over time was small. The stability was improved under the freeze-thaw cycle (-15 ℃ ~ 45 ℃). In the future, if the composition of the ingredients is optimized through HSP, it is expected that it will be helpful in the development of W/O type sunscreen formulations that are excellent in use and stability.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.57 no.2
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• pp.123-129
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• 2014

The antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of Camellia oleifera seed oil were studied. Four kinds of seed oil samples were prepared, crude oil and refined oil, extracted by cold pressing method (CPC, CPR), and organic solvent extraction (OSC, OSR). Antioxidant activity analysis was measured in 2,2-azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid)-diammonium salt, ferric reducing Ability of Plasma, and 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl assays. Besides, the percentage of inhibition of red blood cells hemolysis induced by 2,2'-azobis(2-amidnopropane) dihydrochlorid, the lag time of LDL conjugated dienes formation in vitro, and the inhibitors of loss in tryptophan fluorescence were all used to estimate the antioxidant activity of the samples. The total phenolic contents (TPC) were detemined by Folin-Ciocalteu method. The TPC of the C. oleifera seed oils can be arranged in descending order: CPC ($1.9172{\mu}g/mL$) > OSC ($1.5218{\mu}g/mL$) > CPR ($1.0611{\mu}g/mL$) > OSR ($0.6782{\mu}g/mL$). And the oils were investigated for activity against Escherichia coli, Bacillus subtilis, Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Aspergillus niger. The results showed the antioxidant activity of crude oil by cold pressing method was stronger than others, and all oils did inhibit activity of the top three bacteria expert A. niger. The further significance of the study contributes to measure the antioxidant and antimicrobial activity of the potential health benefits by the different methods of preparation and the oil of C. oleifera seeds acting as free radical scavenger, pharmaceuticals and preservatives may offer some information in medicine and cosmetic not just in food field.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.445-450
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• 2019

Recently, consumers using cosmetics have a great interest in raw material safety. Among them, interest in natural preservatives is increasing, and as the demand for cosmetics excluding paraben preservatives increases, a method of replacing synthetic preservatives with antibacterial essential oils is being considered. The antibacterial effect of essential oils depends on the components, concentrations and interactions between the main active compounds. Effective preservatives should have antimicrobial activity against a wide range of strains even at minimal concentrations. All preservatives should be considered to increase skin concentration and cause skin irritation and allergic reactions. Consumers recognize that essential oils from nature are safe, but some should be careful because they can cause contact allergies or phototoxic reactions. As such, it is important to balance natural preservatives with maximum preservative effects and low toxicity. This paper describes the characteristics of essential oils focused on antibacterial properties, efficacy and safety as cosmetic preservatives.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.137-155
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• 1999

The o/w emulsions were prepared by lysolecithin as a biosurfactantsto to emulsify oils with squalane(SQ), liquid paraffin(LP), octylpalmitate(OP), octylstearate(OS), alkyl benzoate(AB), isostearyl benzoate(ISB). The droplets size and shape of o/w emulsions were investigated by laser light scattering, With dynamic light scattering hydrodynamic radius(Rh) of emulsion droplets was varied from 150m to 250m and critical concentration of oil In which the hydrodynamic radius(Rh) of emulsion droplets decreased and increased was found in the point of 0.5wt% oil concentration, and it was found increasing the polarity of oil deccreased the droplets, the droplets size of SQ(polar oil) were lower than SQ(nonpolar oil) With static light scattering radius of gyration(R$_{g}$) of emulusion droplets was to be calculated. From measurements of the ratio of R$_{g}$R$_{h}$ it was found that the shape of droplet of ISB, AB(polar oils) were sphere, for OP, OS(apolar oil) were oblate, for LP, SQ(nonpolar oil) were rod. The viscosity of emulsion in the form of rod was higher than that of emulsion in the form of sphere.e.e.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.227-236
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• 2014

In this study, O/W and W/S emulsions were prepared by combining oils having different required hydrophilic lipophilic balance (HLB) values under the diverse conditions of HLB values composed of a hydrophilic surfactant and a lipophilic surfactant and their stability was investigated. Results showed that the higher the viscosity of O/W emulsions was as the lower the HLB value of emulsifier and emulsion particle showed a tendency to be a smaller and compact and stabler in centrifugal filtration. W/S emulsions also showed a similar tendency to be a smaller and compact as HLB values of emulsifier was higher and stabler in centrifugal filtration. However, the viscosity of W/S emulsion tended to get lower in HLB conditions of all emulsifiers as the time passed. This indicated that the emulsions had an unstable feature in long-term stability. In conclusion, the results showed opposite to the known theory that O/W emulsion is proper to be applied by nonionic surfactant with a high HLB value and W/S emulsion to be applied by nonionic surfactant with a low HLB value and provide useful information for the cosmetics research and related areas.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.227-232
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• 2008

In this research, organic extracts from roots of platycodon grandiflorum was tested to see the possibility for cosmetic natural surfactant. Interfacial properties of extracts of Platycodon grandiflorum was checked for interfacial tension, forming force, dispersion force, emulsion force, emulsion activity, and emulsion stability. At 0.005 wt% concentration, the interfacial tension against the caster oil was 11.5 dyn/cm which was lower than that of Tween 40 and quillaja bark. Extracts of Platycodon grandiflorum showed excellent emulsification activity and stability for cosmetic oils such as olive oil, soybean oil, and canola oil. In patch test using 2-5% of the extract and glycerin, the extract showed mild skin irritation. From the experiment, the extracts of platycodon grandiflorum root showed good interfacial properties as a cosmetic agent with minor skin irritation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.311-319
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• 2012

Seborrheic dermatitis (SD) is the skin disease occurred because of Malassezia yeast which grows on the skin and scalp, and this yeast lives on sebum lipid, and their metabolite, free lipid acids are thought to be the main irritant on skin. To find out effective cosmeceutical ingredients to treat SD symptoms, we established novel cell-based in vitro model mimicking SD symptoms. This in vitro model adopted the co-culture system with primary sebocyte & HaCaT keratinocyte. We used M. globosa yeast extract, arachidonic acid, linoleic acid and dihydrotestosterone as SD inducers. In the co-culture system with optimized concentrations for SD-inducing cocktail, the production of IL-8 and sebum lipids increased up to 2-fold, and then we screened with commercial essential oils by monitoring IL-8 as a key inflammatory biomarker. Then we found that Cinnamomum zeylanicum oil, Mentha arvensis oil effectively down-regulated IL-$1{\alpha}$, IL-6, IL-8 cytokines which over-produced by SD-inducing cocktail. Additionally, two essential oils also showed inhibitory effect on sebum lipid synthesis from primary sebocyte and growth inhibitory effect to M. globosa yeast (MICs were lower than 0.0625 %). Our recent results suggest that Cinnamomum zeylanicum oil and Mentha arvensis oil could be effective natural herbal remedies to relieve or protect scalp seborrheic dermatitis.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.227-233
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• 2016

This study was designed to analyze the chemical compositions of 'Setoka' branch essential oils (SEBO) and to test their biological activities. 'Setoka' is a Citrus species widely cultivated in Jeju Island. At the present, 'Setoka' branches produced by thinning process were mostly discarded as a waste. Therefore, utilization of this branch waste has received much attention. 'Setoka' branch essential oils (SBEO) were prepared by treatment of its ethanol extracts with jojoba oil. SBEO were chemically analyzed using gas chromatograph-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), and following components were identified; ethyl linoleate (64.14%), ethyl palmitate (16.50%), neophytadiene (11.06%) and beta-citronellol (5.09%). The anti-inflammatory activity in the SBEO was examined using RAW 264.7 murine macrophage cells stimulated with LPS. As a result, the SBEO inhibited nitric oxide (NO) productions with a dose-dependent manner. In addition, SBEO showed good anti-microbial activities against drug-susceptible and -resistant skin pathogens such as Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes, which are acne-causing bacteria. Based on these results, we suggest that SBEO has the possibility for use as an anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial agent in cosmetic applications.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.93-98
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• 2021

This study aims to find a discriminatory way that can lower the dependence on imports of aroma essential oils and increase the value of herb plants that are growing in domestic demand and cultivation. To this end, through a study that analyzes and reproduces fragrance components without damaging the original material of domestically grown lavender flowers using the SPME method, we are trying to confirm the difference in fragrance composition from lavender essential oil and find the fragrance originality of domestically grown herb plants. A total of 38 kinds of lavender essential oils and 27 kinds of lavender flowers were analyzed as fragrance ingredients, Among them, the common ingredients were myrcene, d-limonene, 1,8-cineol, ocimene, p-cymene, α-terpinolene, camphor, linalool, linalyl acetate, bornyl acetate, 4-terpineol, and a-terpineol. In addition, among the fragrance components of the two samples, it was confirmed that the type and content of allergens of domestically cultivated lanvender flowers were low. As a result of the sensuality evaluation of 15 panels, domestic cultivated lavender flower reproduction scent was higher in favor of lavender essential oil, which has been used in the industry until now. It is also believed that lavender fragrance, which lowers the content of allergy-causing ingredients, can expand industrialization.