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Development of Cosmetics Preservatives using Natural Essential Oil

천연유래 에센셜 오일을 활용한 화장품 방부제 개발

  • Kim, Bo-Ae (Division. of Biomedicinal&Cosmetics, Technology, Mokwon Univ)
  • 김보애 (목원대학교 생의약화장품학부)
  • Received : 2019.09.26
  • Accepted : 2019.11.02
  • Published : 2019.11.30

Abstract

Recently, consumers using cosmetics have a great interest in raw material safety. Among them, interest in natural preservatives is increasing, and as the demand for cosmetics excluding paraben preservatives increases, a method of replacing synthetic preservatives with antibacterial essential oils is being considered. The antibacterial effect of essential oils depends on the components, concentrations and interactions between the main active compounds. Effective preservatives should have antimicrobial activity against a wide range of strains even at minimal concentrations. All preservatives should be considered to increase skin concentration and cause skin irritation and allergic reactions. Consumers recognize that essential oils from nature are safe, but some should be careful because they can cause contact allergies or phototoxic reactions. As such, it is important to balance natural preservatives with maximum preservative effects and low toxicity. This paper describes the characteristics of essential oils focused on antibacterial properties, efficacy and safety as cosmetic preservatives.

최근 화장품을 사용하는 소비자들이 원료 안전성에 관심이 크다. 그 중에서도 천연방부제에 대한 관심이 증가하고 있으며 파라벤류 방부제를 배제한 화장품에 대한 수요가 증가함에 따라 합성 방부제를 항균성의 에센셜 오일로 대체하는 방안이 고려되고 있다. 에센셜 오일의 항균 효과는 주요 활성 화합물 사이의 성분, 농도 및 상호작용에 따라 달라진다. 효과적인 방부제는 최소 농도에서도 광범위한 균주에 대한 항균 활성이 있어야 한다. 모든 방부제는 농도가 증가할수록 피부 자극, 알레르기 반응을 일으킬 수 있음을 고려해야 한다. 소비자들은 천연 유래 에센셜 오일은 안전하다고 인지하고 있으나, 일부는 접촉 알레르기나 광독성 반응을 일으킬 수 있으므로 주의해야 한다. 이처럼 천연방부제 또한 최대의 방부효과와 낮은 독성의 균형을 잡는 것이 중요하며, 본 논문은 항균 특성에 초점을 맞춘 에센셜 오일에 대한 특징, 화장품 방부제로서의 효능과 안전성에 대해 기술한다.

Keywords

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