• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.440-445
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• 2018

In this study, the stability of O/W cosmetic facial cream emulsions according to HLB values was evaluated by mixing nonionic surfactants, such as Brij 78&72 and Brij 98&92. Brij 78&72 (steareth-20&steareth-2, EMS-01), saturated fatty acid, and Brij 98&92 (oleth-20&oleth-2, EMS-02), unsaturated fatty acid, were used as mixed surfactants. The stability of the O/W emulsion was evaluated by using the emulsion viscosity, particle size, particle size distribution, and zeta-potential. The viscosity of the emulsion increased with the increase of time for EMS-01 while that of EMS-02 decreased with the increase of HLB value. The particle size of both EMS-01 and EMS-02 increased with time. The emulsifier with a HLB value of 10.8, which is the most similar to the required HLB value of mineral oil, 10.5, had the smallest particle size and highest density and also showed the highest emulsion stability. The zeta-potential of both emulsions tended to increase with the HLB value. No significant changes were observed in emulsions of the HLB value of 10.8 or more. The saturated fatty acid system, EMS-01, exhibited a higher zeta-potential value than that of the unsaturated fatty acid EMS-02 and also was superior in the stability.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.527-531
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• 2016

Emulsification is a fundamental process of cosmetics manufacture which produces stabilized emulsion by dispersing the liquid from the one side to the other by adding an emulsifier in an immiscible liquid. Various types of emulsifiers can produce various cosmetics. In this study, we evaluated the stability of emulsifier by measuring variations in the viscosity, particle size and particle size distribution. HLB values of nonionic emulsifiers which are used in this paper are 12.9, 12.9, 12.6 and 12.5 for EMU-01, EMU-02, EMU-03 and EMU-04, respectively. All types of emulsions showed an increase in the particle size and a decrease in the viscosity with the time. Also they showed a decrease in the particle size and an increase in the viscosity with respect to increasing the stirring speed. However, the stability of emulsions up to 56 days was secured by observing the non-separation of emulsions. In addition, the viscosity of the emulsions was measured in the order of EMU-01 > EMU-02 > EMU-03 > EMU-04 while the size of particles was measured in the order of $EMU-01{\approx}EMU-02$ > $EMU-03{\approx}EMU-04$. This indicates that our emulsion can be potentially used for preparing a cosmetic facial cream.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.117-126
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• 2007

This study investigated the effect of the price and brand name on the consumer's evaluation of cosmetics. 363 women from 20's to 50's living in Seoul and the metropolitan area were asked to use and describe the given samples of cosmetic products for one week with different information of price and brand name. The results of this study are as follows: First, the assessment of the facial toner, moisturizer and cream does not show a significant statistical difference between the group of 'renowned' and 'renownless'. Second, the assessment of the facial toner, moisturizer, and cream shows a significant statistical difference between the user groups which received the prior information whether the cosmetics are 'high price' or 'low price'. Third, the assessment of the users' satisfaction of the 3 kinds of cosmetic products mentioned above is influenced by 'renown' an 'price'. Finally, the interaction of the factor 'renown' and 'price' influences on the cosmetics' effectiveness significantly. From this study, it was discovered that the evaluation and the degree of satisfaction on cosmetics were influenced by the price and brand names. This will improve the understanding of consumers' behavior and personal decision-making, which in be the key of marketing strategy.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.167-175
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• 2013

The aim of this study is to evaluate the effect of cosmetic products containing concentrated ginseng using novel methods based on Traditional Korean medicine (TKM). In TKM, inspection of facial skin was an important method to diagnose symptoms and body condition of patients. Doctors in oriental medicine examined a patient as observing symptoms on the face and skin related to inner organs. This was called "mang-jin. In this study, eleven female, who have been using the cosmetic products containing concentrated ginseng for the last 5 years, and eleven healthy controls, who have never used the same product, were recruited. Three doctors in oriental medicine evaluated 17 inspection factors on facial skin. And 7 non-invasive skin bioengineering factors were assessed by various instruments at the same time. In results, 7 factors of the inspection were better in using the product than in controls. And sebum, roughness, pigmentation and wrinkle depth were significantly lower in using the product than in controls. So, this results propose that the cosmetic product containing concentrated ginseng has a good anti-aging effect on skin. And it is suggested that the novel evaluation method combined, Traditional Korean medicine and modern bioengineering technique, has to be developed for holistic concept of Hanbang cosmetics.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.545-550
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• 2017

This study conducted an experiment to develop new raw ingredients for natural cosmetics by evaluating the efficacy of cosmetic products containing the extracts of Pleurotus eringii mushrooms grown without agricultural chemicals. To this end, purchased were Pleurotus eringii mushrooms grown without agricultural chemicals in South Gyeongsang province, South Korea in 2016; extraction was conductedwith 80% EeOH at room temperature after dry ing them. The study identified the excellent efficacy of the extracts after evaluating the antioxidant activity using the DPPH assay and ROS assay. According to the evaluation of he categories of moisture, oil, pH and pigment after the application of a cream-type facial mask pack containing 5% of the extracts, there were significant differences in the categories of moisture and oil on the T-zone area, and no statistically significant differences in the categories of oil change on the U-zone, pH and pigment. However as the extracts of Pleurotus eringii mushrooms had excellent efficacy in all categories compared to the control group, the efficacy of the extracts as a cosmetic raw ingredient could be identified. It is expected that this study may further contribute to developing more advanced raw ingredients, given the extract and cultivation conditions by concentration.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.191-200
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• 2018

In this study, we conducted research to find anti-wrinkle skin care ingredients from natural sources via the measurement of procollagen type 1 levels in the medium of normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF) and found that a Nelumbo nucifera leave extract (NLE) was as the best effective ingredient. By the high performance liquid chromatography analysis, we confirmed isoquercitrin was one of the main compounds of NLE. Moreover, it also increased the procollagen type 1 production without cytotoxicity of NHDF. NLE and isoquercitrin exerted free radical scavenging activity. Especially, isoquercitrin exhibited strong intracellular antioxidant capacity in human skin-derived cells, HaCaT and NHDF. Finally, we performed clinical test for the inhibitory effect of NLE on skin wrinkle formation. A randomized study was conducted in 22 healthy female volunteers, aged between 30 and 65 yrs, with moderate to moderately severe facial wrinkles. Volunteer applied a 1.7% NLE cream (isoquercitrin 51 ppm) and a control cream at each facial side (left/right) twice daily for 8 weeks. The 1.7% NLE cream improved skin roughness through reducing the wrinkle of the craw's feet significantly without any skin side effect. Our results demonstrate that NLE and isoquercitrin can increase the collagen production and exert antioxidant activity. Therefore, we expect that the new non-toxic herbal extract, isoquercitrin-containing NLE will be interesting natural ingredient of cosmetics with anti-wrinkle efficacy.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.387-412
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• 2003

Influence of gelatinase on basement membrane (BM) structure was investigated by using a skin equivalent (SE) model. The results showed that (1) gelatinase produced by cells degraded the BM and (2) the addition of matrix metalloproteinase-specific inhibitor to the SE medium accelerated the formation of BM structure, indicating that gelatinase is involved in BM impairment. The activity of gelatinase was also studied in healthy human facial skin tissues. The result of in situ zymography revealed gelatinase activity around the basal layer of the epidermis, where BM integrity was severely compromised. Therefore, this enzyme was suggested to be associated with BM decomposition in human facial skin. To assess the behavior of gelatinase in stratum corneum (SC) non-invasively, an immunological study was performed. Since positive immunostaining of pro-gelatinase B was observed in SC stripped from sun-exposed skin, whereas no positive staining detected in SC of non-irradiated skin, gelatinase in the epidermis could be non-invasively detected by measuring gelatinase in SC. Gelatinase in SC of healthy female volunteers was monitored using a special film that sensitively and conveniently detects gelatinase. Ninetr percent of SC from facial skin (l00 women, 40's-50's) was gelatinase-positive. On the other hand, SC from non-irradiated skin was negative. These results strongly suggest that (1) gelatinase is constantly produced in the facial epidermis of most middle-aged woman during their daily life, and (2) the enzyme might be involved in the aging-related degeneration of both BM and the matrix fibers of the upper layer of the dermis, acting as a very important aging factor. Strong inhibitory activity against gelatinase was found in turmeric extract and identified curcumin as the major ingredient. Topical application of cream containing turmeric extract significantly decreased the number of gelatinase-positive SC clusters in human facial skins. These results indicated that turmeric is an effective ingredient to prevent skin from photo aging by suppressing chlonically upregulated gelatinase activity by UV and to improve skin condition.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.4
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• pp.371-382
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• 2020

There have been continuous attempts to quantify sensory attributes of cosmetic products by measuring relevant physical properties. The most representative method to evaluate stickiness is to measure axial force using texture analyzer. Stickiness is known to correlate with AUC which abbreviates area under curve in the obtained axial force curve as a function of time. Recently, Normandie University research group developed in vivo stickiness evaluation method considering the characteristics of skin along with established evaluation method[8]. Based on the study, we tried to optimize in vivo stickiness evaluation method especially for cosmetic creams. The experiment was carried out on 5 different facial creams products by changing the amount and the times of rolling of creams, and the shape and material of probes. Based on the results of the sensory evaluation, the most consistent conditions were established as the optimal evaluation method. As a result, applying 70 μL of cream and rubbing 10 times for 7 s inside the 3.4 cm circle were judged to be suitable. As for the probes, spherical metallic probe was more proper due to its reproducibility. We conducted the settled method on 10 subjects to check its validity. Although the absolute values of AUC differed depending on the individuals, the AUC values were all ranked the same. Finally, for the standardization of stickiness of AUC, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) was set as a reference material and we measured AUC of its aqueous solution by changing concentration. Then, the degree of stickiness recognition for 5 different creams was surveyed to check the correlation between AUC and stickiness.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.439-450
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• 2015

Akebia quinata fruit(AQF), as identified in the preceding paper, polyphenols and other phenolic components of saponin also has similar or higher levels. The purpose of this study is to analyze the effect of akebia quinata fruit extract, well-known for soothing, anti-oxidizing effects, on the improvement of the moisture, sebum, melanin, erythema content of facial skin. As a result of measuring DPPH radical scavenging activity to examine independent anti-oxidation of AQF, there was a slight scavenging activity. Compared to before the usage of cream, a group who used cream with akebia quinata fruit extract showed a very slight increase in the moisture content and slight decrease in the sebum, melanin, erythema on their faces after 4 weeks of tests, indicating that there was some statistically significant changes found. This study proves that the akebia quinata fruit(AQF) extract has a positive effect on the overall improvement of facial skin and it also implies that the akebia quinata fruit extract has high potential as an ingredient of cosmetic products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.129-135
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• 2008

In this study, the potential anti-aging properties of Prunella vulgaris extract were investigated. According to our results, Prunella vulgaris extract increased collagen synthesis(74.7% at 250 ${\mu}g/mL$) and decreased on MMP-1 synthesis(90.2% at 200 ${\mu}g/mL$) and elastase activity(43.7% at 2.0%). Furthermore, it also showed free radical scavenging activity(76.9% at 2.0%) and reduced $H_2O_2$-induced cytoxicity(49.9% at 2.0%). A double-blind clinical study to investigate the effect of Prunella vulgaris extract on the skin's surface was conducted with 22 healthy volunteers, aged 34 to 48 years. The volunteers applied a cream formula with 4.0% of Prunella vulgaris extract, or placebo cream, on each crow's feet twice a day for 12 weeks. Skin wrinkles were evaluated with the naked eye and instrumental image analysis of silicone replicas, followed by statistical analysis. Twelve weeks after application of cream formula with 4.0% of Prunella vulgaris extract, we found significant improvement of facial wrinkle. Moreover, silicone replica analysis confirmed notable improvement in average of R2 and R3 at 12 weeks(p<0.05). These results demonstrate that Prunella vulgaris provides a remarkable and significant tensor and anti-wrinkle effect on the skin, which could be of great use in anti-aging skin care products.