• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.645-658
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• 2003

We evaluated activities of various plant leaf extracts and found the availability against skin aging in the leaf extract of star fruit (Averrhoa carambola L), and developed Star Fruit Leaf Extract BG30 as an ingredient of cosmetics. Star Fruit Leaf Extract BG30 was found to show scavenging activities of reactive oxygen species and an inhibitory effect on the activity of matrix metalloproteinase-1. It showed increasing activity of type I collagen and recovery effect from damage of UV-B irradiation in human fibroblast. We performed the separation of the active principal from Star Fruit Leaf Extract BG30 to give isofurcatin 2"-Ο-$\alpha$-L-rhamnopyranoside, which showed increasing activity of type I collagen. To examine the anti-wrinkle effect of Star Fruit Leaf Extract BG30, seven volunteers applied a Star Fruit Leaf Extract BG30 1 ％ cream in double blind manner to one-side of the corner of their eye and the placebo cream to the opposite side. Clinical evaluation of wrinkling was performed every week for 5 weeks using a silicone rubber replica. A statistically significant improvement of Star Fruit Leaf Extract BG30-treated site was seen in decreased wrinkles. Star Fruit Leaf Extract BG30 results in clinically visible improvement in wrinkling when used topically for 5 weeks.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.2 s.57
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• pp.105-110
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• 2006

This study was to describe the differences in efficacy and effect of herbal extracts by the part and solvent extraction from the medical plants used as materials of oriental herbs cosmetics. And, this study was to apply to the test method of efficacy and effect related to the antioxidation as herbal extracts, complex of actual ingredient, not existing analytical methods of single ingredient. After screening the medical plants with the antioxidative activity primarily and selecting 11 sorts of medical plants to be used by the part in the literature, this study was to confirm the differences through the well-known test methods like DPPH radical scavenging activity test and hydroxyl radical scavenging activity test. For examples, in case of Trachelospermum asiaticum, compared with the aerial part and fruit, the value of DPPH radical scavenging activity test had $25.2 {\pm} 0.2$ and $62.4 {\pm}1.6$ each. It has shown that the value of fruit had 2.4 times higher effect than the one of aerial part. In case of hydroxyl scavenging activity test, it was effective in the fruit, but it has shown that there was no effect on the aerial part. It showed the same phenomena in some other plants. From the result above, this researcher could understand that it needed to consider extracting the medical plants or plants with the active principle by the part. Also, this study was to confirm the differences in effect according to the solvent as it changed the solvent extraction after selecting a plant (Lithospermum erythrorhizon) widely used for medicine and dye. As a result of measuring the actual value of superoxide scavenging activity test, this study was to consider that there were differences by the part or solvent extraction in extracting and using the medical plants as it has shown that the effect differences produced $10{\sim}80%$ according to the solvent. When it was applied to the products, this study has shown that it needed to decrease the possible errors.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.175-184
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• 2019

The epidermal growth factor (EGF) has a intrinsic function of inducing growth and proliferation of cells through interacting with cell membrane receptors in human epidermis and dermis layer. These functions of EGF are used as a main ingredient for wound healing medicines and anti-aging cosmetics. As a cosmetic ingredient, the EGF has a problem in exhibiting its natural efficacy due to the lack of the ability to penetrate through the stratum corneum, which is known as the skin barrier. In this study, a recombinant human epidermal growth factor ($MTD_{151}-EGF$) fused with the macromolecule transduction domain $(MTD)_{151}$ with the skin penetration ability was developed to improve the skin penetration efficiency of the EGF. Expression of $MTD_{151}-EGF$ was performed in E. coli transformed with a vector encoding the $MTD_{151}-EGF$ gene and then purified. The purified $MTD_{151}-EGF$ was evaluated using cell proliferation assay, cytotoxicity test and skin penetration test by franz diffusion cell assay and artificial skin. Cell proliferation activity of $MTD_{151}-EGF$ purified to high purity of 99% or above was equivalent to the EGF or better, and cytotoxicity was not observed. In addition, the $MTD_{151}-EGF$ showed an excellent penetration efficiency compared to the EGF in the skin penetration test with EGF and $MTD_{151}-EGF$ labeled by FITC in an artificial skin penetration model. Based on the quantitative analysis of the penetrating substance using franz diffusion cell assay, the amount of penetration was about 16 times more than that of EGF. These results can be regarded as an effective alternative to improve the existing physical transdermal penetration method related to the use of various active ingredients for cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.75-81
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• 2011

The effect of lactic acid bacteria.fermented ginseng berry extract (FGBE) on physiological activities was evaluated. The contents of ginsenosides Re, Rc, and Rb1 in ginseng berry extract (GBE) were increased after fermentation by lactic acid bacteria when analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography. Antioxidant activity of GBE and FGBE was also analyzed by DPPH radical scavenging activity assay and SOD.like activity assay. FGBE showed a 86.34 % inhibition of DPPH radical and a 76.82 % inhibition by SOD.like activity at a concentration of 1.00 %. GBE showed a 49.78 % inhibition of DPPH radical and a 40.80 % inhibition by SOD.like activity at the same concentration. Furthermore, procollagen type I (COL1A1) gene expression increased by 823.13 % and matrix metal-loproteinase(MMP)-1 and tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-${\alpha}$ gene expression decreased by 87.88 % and 99.92 %, respectively, in human fibroblast cultured with FGBE at a concentration of 0.50 %. These results suggest that FGBE could be used as an active ingredient for functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.231-241
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• 2020

In this study in order to develop new approaches we investigated using high voltage pulsed electric fields (PEF) technology to reduce the risks, protect the phyto-constituents and improve skin biological activities. After preparing a Chaga mushroom (Inonotus obliquus) extracts pretreated with PEF, components measurement and skin efficacy evaluation were performed. As a result of the content measurement, the content of polysaccharide and polyphenol were higher in the order of extracts treated with 50 Hz and 25 Hz at 0.5 kV/cm, and the content of protein was the highest in extracts treated with 25 Hz at 0.5k V/cm. Similar to the results of the polyphenol measurements, extracts treated with 25 Hz and 50 Hz at 0.5 kV/cm showed leading DPPH scavenging ability. The cell protection effect against sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and UVB was finest in extracts treated with 25 Hz at 0.5 kV/cm, which had the highest protein content. And the hyaluronic acid synthesis was leading in extracts treated with 50 Hz and 100 Hz at 0.5 kV/cm. Therefore, the active ingredient of the high-voltage PEF pre-treatment Chaga mushroom extract can be developed as a functional material with cell protection and moisturizing effect, and such green technology is expected to be used in various fields of cosmetics and material development.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.15-21
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• 2018

Skin-aging is accelerated by the increased expression of MMP-1 caused by the increased skin temperature induced by IR/visible light as well as UV. Thus, the control of skin temperature is important to inhibit heat-induced aging. Many studies have been conducted to lower the skin temperature through the controlling transient receptor potential melastatin 8 channel (TRPM8), which is known as the cold and menthol receptor 1 (CMR1) and is activated at temperature below $25^{\circ}C$. In this study, we first investigated the effect of Ganoderma lucidum extract (GLE) on the TRPM8 expression. Results showed that GLE, hexane (Hex) fractions and water fractions increased the TRPM8 expression in a dose dependent manner. Active compound in Hex fractions were separated by chromatography and analyzed by $^1H$ and $^{13}C$ NMR spectroscopy. The isolated compounds were identified as ergosterol and it also significantly increased the TRPM8 expression. Taken together, these results strongly suggest that G. lucidum extract and ergosterol have the potential as a new cooling ingredient in the cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.159-164
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• 2015

To identify new anti-inflammatory and whitening material, this study investigated the whitening and anti-inflammatory effects of the lyophilized powder from 6 oriental plant extracts (OPE; Citrus junos Tanaka, Mori cortex Radicis, Schisandra chinensis Baillon, Coix lachrymajobi var. mayuen, Angelica gigas NAKAI, and Sophora japonica L.) fermented with Streptococcus thermophilus by assessment of cytotoxicity on human dermal fibroblast, inhibitory effect of nitric oxide (NO) prodction, tyrosinase activity and melanin formation. The OPE was fermented with Streptococcus thermophilus at $37^{\circ}C$ for 2 days and the lyophilized powder was manufactured by freezing-dryer. OPE didn't show cytotoxicity at concentration of $500{\mu}g/mL$ using a cytopathic effect reduction method. OPE also exhibited inhibitory effect on nitric oxide (NO) prodction by Griess reagent system. Furthermore, OPE showed inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity with dose dependent manner, and exhibited significant inhibition of melanin formation by measurement of melanin from culture media (p < 0.05). From these results, 6 OPE extracts showed anti-inflammatory and whitening effect and may be used as an active ingredient for cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.129-136
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• 2010

In order to evaluate anti-wrinkle activity of Carex humilis extract, free radical scavenging activity, elastase inhibitory activity and reduction of expression Matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) mRNA and MMP-1 protein were investigated. The roots of Carex humilis were extracted with 95 % ethanol and successively partitioned with organic solvents with increasing polarity of the solvents. Each fraction of organic solvent were investigated by using free radical scavenging activity and elastase inhibitory activity test. Among them, EtOAc fraction showed antioxidant activity ($SC_{50}$=4.89 ${\mu}g/mL$) and elastase inhibitory activity ($IC_{50}$=23.5 ${\mu}g/mL$). EtOAc fraction was developed on silica gel by open-column chromatography and consecutively re-developed on C18 resin by prep-HPLC to give ${\alpha}$-viniferin as a major component, which was confirmed by spectrometric analysis. In the assay on expression of MMP-1 mRNA by RT-PCR and protein by western-blot, EtOAc layer (10 ~ 100 ${\mu}g/mL$) was reduced about 50 ~ 60 %, 50 ~ 65 % respectively and ${\alpha}$-viniferin (0.5 ~ 2 ${\mu}g/mL$) was inhibited about 60 ~ 75 %, 55 ~ 65 % respectively in human fibroblast. Therefore, our findings suggest that EtOAc layer of Carex humilis containing ${\alpha}$-viniferin can be useful as an active ingredient for cosmeceuticals of anti-wrinkle effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.357-364
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to investigate the effect of Hovenia dulcis (oriental raisin tree) extract on ganodermanondiol (GN) contents in Ganoderma lucidum (G. lucidum) mycelia. GN has a triterpenoid structure and is one of the major active components of G. lucidum. Furthermore, we previously proved its inhibitory effects on tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. In this study, we observed significantly increased GN contents in G. lucidum mycelial extracts supplemented with 15% (v/v) oriental raisin tree extract (ORTE) by HPLC analysis. In addition, melanogenesis was significantly inhibited by G. lucidum extract supplemented with 15% ORTE when compared to G. lucidum extract without ORTE supplementation. Furthermore, mycelial growth of G. lucidum was increased by ORTE supplementation in both solid and liquid cultivation. These results suggest that the oriental raisin tree is useful as natural ingredient for increasing GN biosynthesis as well as whitening effect of G. lucidum.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.375-382
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• 2015

Ginsenosides (ginseng saponin) as the one of important pharmaceutical compounds of ginseng and is responsible for the pharmacological and biological activities. These ginsenoside produces diverse small molecules ginsenoside which have more pharmacological activities including anti-wrinkle, anti-cancer and anti-oxidant effects. In the present study, we isolated bacteria using esculin agar, to produce ${\beta}$-glucosidase, and we focused on the bio-transformation of ginsenoside. Phylogenetic tree analysis was performed by comparing the 16S rRNA sequences; we identified the strain as Stenotrophomonas rhizopilae strain GFC09. In order to determine the optimal conditions for enzyme activity, the crude enzyme was incubated with 1 mM ginsenoside $Rb_1$. Bioconversion of ginsenoside $Rb_1$ were analyzed using TLC and HPLC. The crude enzyme hydrolyzed the ginsenoside $Rb_1$ along the following pathway: LB: $Rb_1{\rightarrow}Rd{\rightarrow}F_2$ into compound K, TSB: $Rb_1{\rightarrow}Rd{\rightarrow}F_2$. The structure of the hydrolyzed metabolites were identified by NMR. The activity screening tests showed that the conversion product induced the production of type I procollagen in a dose-dependent manner. These results suggested that hydrolyzed ginseng product containing the ginsenoside $F_2$ and compound K could be useful as an active ingredient for wrinkle-care cosmetics.