• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제35권4호
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• pp.309-315
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• 2009

천연물로부터 새로운 기능성 화장품 소재를 개발하기 위하여 국내외 천연물을 대상으로 항산화 활성을 평가한 결과, 가시연꽃의 종자 추출물이 우수한 활성을 나타내는 것을 발견하였다. 가시연꽃 종자의 추출물로부터 유효 성분을 분리하기 위하여 각종 컬럼 크로마토그래피 및 HPLC 등의 기법을 실시하여 순수하게 정제된 화합물 5종을 획득하였다. 각종 NMR 및 MS 스펙트럼 등을 분석하여 이들의 화학구조를 규명한 결과 fucosterol (1), 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl)-4-[(7'R),5'-dihydroxy-3'-methoxybenzyl]tetrahydrofuran (2), resorcinol (3), pyrogallol (4) and 4-O-methylgallic acid (5)로 동정하였다. 이들 화합물의 화장품 원료로서의 특징을 조사하고자 각 화합물들을 대상으로 항산화 활성, 엘라스타아제 저해활성, 미백활성 등을 평가하였다. 이들 화합물의 자유라디칼소거활성은 $SC_{50}$ 값이 $17.0\;{\sim}\;100.2\;{\mu}M$이었고, 특히 화합물 4 및 5는 양성대조구인 ferulic acid보다 6배 이상 강력한 활성을 나타내었다. 또한 엘라스타아제 저해활성에 대한 $IC_{50}$ 값은 $18.8\;{\sim}\;78.2\;{\mu}M$로써 특히 화합물 4는 양성대조구인 EGCG와 비슷한 활성을 나타내었으며, B16F10 멜라노마 세포를 이용한 멜라닌 생성 저해활성에 대해 화합물 3은 양성대조구인 arbutin보다 약 2배 이상 강력한 미백활성을 나타내었다. 따라서 가시연꽃 종자 추출물은 강력한 항산화활성, 엘라스타아제 저해활성 및 미백활성을 나타내는 유효성분들을 다량 함유하므로, 복합 기능성을 나타내는 화장품 원료로 사용할 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.151-158
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• 2009

천연물로부터 새로운 미백 소재를 개발하기 위하여 식물 추출물들의 미백활성을 조사한 결과, 엉겅퀴의 열매로부터 추출한 silymarin이 우수한 미백효과를 나타내는 것을 발견하였다. Silymarin으로부터 유효 성분을 분리하기 위하여 각종 컬럼 크로마토그래피 및 HPLC 등의 기법을 실시하여 silybin과 isosilybin을 분리한 후 이성질체인 silybin A와B, 그리고 isosilybin A와 B를 각각 순수 분리하였다. Silymarin은 Mel-Ab melanocyte에서 세포독성에 영향을 주지 않는 동시에 멜라닌의 생성을 억제하였고 $IC_{50}$ 값은 28.2 ${\mu}g/mL$이었다. 또한 Silymarin은 cell-based tyrosinase의 활성을 저해하고, western blot 분석 결과 tyrosinase 단백질의 발현을 감소시키는 것을 확인하였다. Silymarin으로부터 분리한 활성 화합물인 silybin 및 isosilybin의 미백 효과를 측정한 결과, 각각 42.25 ${\mu}M$ 및 16.32 ${\mu}M$의 $IC_{50}$ 값을 가지며 멜라닌의 생성을 억제하였으며 tyrosinase 단백질의 발현을 감소시켰다. Diastereoisomer 형태로 존재하는 silybin A 및 B, 그리고 isosilybin A 및 B의 멜라닌 저해활성을 측정한 결과, 네 가지 화합물 모두 농도 의존적으로 멜라닌의 생성을 억제하는 것으로 나타났다. 또한, 피부 미백 임상연구를 실시한 결과, silymarin 2 % 함유 크림을 사용할 경우 피부 미백 효과가 유효하게 나타남을 확인하였다. 이상의 결과로부터 본 활성물질 silymarin은 피부 미백 효과가 우수한 안전한 화장품 원료로서 사용할 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국생물공학회소식지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.8-15
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• 2011

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.9-12
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• 2000

Certain types of anti-inflammatory components and whitening components were in practical use as the active ingredients of quasi drugs expected to display their pharmacological actions. However, only twenty years at most have past since the introduction of cosmetics that not only physically change the condition of the surface of the skin, but also promote skin homeostasis from by acting on the physiological mechanisms of the skin. Since then, much effort hasa been made to find new active ingredients suitable for full-scale development, and the term "cosmeceutical" has often been coined to describe cosmetics containing pharmacologically active components. In this report, the prospects of cosmeceuticals will be discussed on the basis of a review of the history of the development of current skin-care products.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.209-217
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• 2007

멜라닌은 UV로부터 피부를 보호하는 기능을 하며, 인종과 피부색을 결정하는 요인이다. 또한 미백 기능성 화장품개발의 주요 목표물이기도 하다. 최근 미와 관련된 화장품 시장이 급성장 하면서 미백효능 증대를 위한 연구들이 활발히 진행되고 있고, 보다 안전하고 효능을 극대화하기 위한 미백 기성화장품의 개발은 관심업계의 주력 분야이다. 또한 경쟁력을 확보하기 위한 수단으로 지속적인 특허 출원이 따르고 있다. 특허는 관련업계의 연구경향을 파악할 수 있는 중요한 문헌이기도 하다. 본 논문에서는 미백 기능성화장품과 관련된 특허 분석을 통하여 관련 업계의 미백연구기술의 개발 동향을 소개하고 미백 기능성 화장품의 개발 및 활성성분의 원료개발에 대한 이해를 돕고자 한다.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.466-472
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• 2023

Exon skipping is an efficient technique to inhibit specific gene expression induced by a short-sequence peptide nucleic acid (PNA). To date, there has been no study on the effects of PNA on skin pigmentation. In melanocytes, the tripartite complex is responsible for the transport of mature melanosomes from the nucleus to the dendrites. The tripartite complex is composed of Rab27a, Mlph (Melanophilin), and Myosin Va. Defects in the protein Mlph, a melanosome transport-related protein, are known to cause hypopigmentation. Our study shows that Olipass peptide nucleic acid (OPNA), a cell membrane-permeable PNA, targets exon skipping in the Mlph SHD domain, which is involved in Rab27a binding. Our findings demonstrate that OPNA induced exon skipping in melan-a cells, resulting in shortened Mlph mRNA, reduced Mlph protein levels, and melanosome aggregation, as observed by microscopy. Therefore, OPNA inhibits the expression of Mlph by inducing exon skipping within the gene. These results suggest that OPNA, which targets Mlph, may be a potential new whitening agent to inhibit melanosome movement.

• BMB Reports
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• 제42권11호
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• pp.743-746
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• 2009

L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and peptide are both useful compounds for collagen biosynthesis in cosmeceuticals (cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields). The instability of these compounds, however, limit their application in these industries. In this report, we describe the development of a novel compound, Stabilized Ascorbyl Pentapeptide (SAP), which physically is much more stable than L-ascorbic acid in water. The inhibitory effects of this SAP compound on tyrosinase and melanin synthesis is comparable to that of L-ascorbic acid. Importantly, the SAP compound displays no cytotoxicity at a high concentration (5 mM). The ability of SAP to promote collagen biosynthesis is greater than that of L-ascorbic acid or the KTTKS peptide alone. Considering the in vitro stability and functional effects, our data strongly suggest that the SAP compound is a good candidate not only as a cosmetic ingredient, but also as a wound healing agent.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• 제51권1호
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• pp.7-12
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• 2008

The suitability of CPWs, by-products of the juice industry, was investigated as a source for the production of cosmeceuticals. Four kinds of CPWs, CW, CWE, CWER, and CWEA, were examined for their antioxidant potentials in terms of DPPH radical-scavenging ability for anti-wrinkle applications, inhibition of tyrosinase or melanin production for whitening products, and anti-inflammatory effects to treat various skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and acne as well as for anti-bacterial activity against acne-inducing pathogens. Of the four extracts, CWER was the most potent tyrosinase inhibitor ($IC_{50}$ value: $109\;{\mu}g/mL$), and CWEA ($IC_{50}:\;167\;{\mu}g/mL$) showed good antioxidative effects. CWE and CWEA samples had dose-dependent inhibitory effects on the melanin production. The cytotoxic effects of the four CPWs were determined by colorimetric MTT assays using human keratinocyte HaCaT cells. Most extracts exhibited low cytotoxicity at $100\;{\mu}g/mL$. These results suggest CPWs are attractive candidates for topical applications on the human skin.

• ALGAE
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• 제34권1호
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• pp.45-56
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• 2019

Ecklonia cava (EC) has been widely utilized as an ingredient in commercial products such as functional foods and cosmeceuticals. Recently it has been found that Sargassum horneri (SH) has been invading on Jeju Island coast area by its huge blooming. Moreover, both seaweeds are considering as important ingredients in traditional medicine specifically in East-Asian countries (China, Japan, and Korea). In the present study, we attempted to compare anti-inflammatory properties of 70% ethanolic extracts of EC (ECE), SH (SHE), and their different combinations on lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-activated RAW 264.7 cells. Results indicated that 8 : 2 combinations of ECE : SHE significantly inhibited LPS-activated inflammatory responses (cytokines, protein, and gene expression) in RAW 264.7 macrophage cells compared to the respective extracts and other combinations. The synergistic effect of ECE and SHE was found to be prominent than the effects of ECE or SHE alone. These observations provide useful information for the industrial formulation of functional materials (functional foods and cosmeceuticals) using these two particular seaweeds in Jeju Island of South Korea.

• Natural Product Sciences
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.300-306
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• 2021

Chronic ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes photoaging, which represents skin damage, disrupts skin barrier function, and promotes wrinkle formation. We investigated that the polysaccharide extract of an edible basidiomycetous white jelly mushroom, Tremella fuciformis, (TF-Glucan^®) exhibited statistically photoprotective activity by inhibiting matrix metalloproteases (MMPs) and increasing collagen synthesis, and an anti-inflammatory activity by inhibiting nitric oxide and pro-inflammatory cytokines at the concentrations of less than 1000 ㎍/ml, which is not cytotoxic (p < 0.05). Additionally, TF-Glucan^® increased the expression of involucrin and filaggrin to prevent the disruption of UVB-induced barrier function (p < 0.05). TF-Glucan^® was assessed as a safe material by the human primary skin irritation (1, 3, 5%), human repeated insult patch test (no sensitization at 5%), 3T3 NRU phototoxicity assay (no phototoxicity, PIF < 2, MPE < 0.1), eye irritation test test by BCOP (no category, IVIS ≤ 3) and local lymph node assay (negative at 10, 25, 50%) for identifying potential skin sensitizing. These results suggest that TF-Glucan^® may be useful as an anti-photoaging ingredient for developing cosmeceuticals.