• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.49-64
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• 2001

Fur is conceived as a material signifier, not only with its commodity value as luxury goods but also as its symbolic value as objects invested by one's libidinal desire. In this study, complex meanings of fur as multi-layered signs of political and sexual power focusing on fetishism shall be explored, especially on the spectacle fetishism acted by mass media during the anti-fur movement in the 1980s. In conjuction herewith, a highlight shall also be made to the symbolic value in fashion design since 1990s. In this study, first, as a theoretical investigation, fetishism, that has been traditionally considered only as sexual fetishism in fashion discourse will be explored in socio-economic level. Second, in historical context, how the meanings and values of fur have become realized in various cultural spaces, such as literature, art, film and finally, fashion will be viewed. In fashion, fur is a product of desire and power influenced by commodity fetishism as well as sexual fetishism. During the anti-fur movement, mass media has developed the concept of spectacle fetishism. Fur is a sign of animal-victim, and fur-clad women is viewed with images full of imperialsm, sexism and racism, thus act as derisive spectacles of consumerism. Since 1990s as a reflection on anti-fur movement, fetishistic characteristics, which challenge traditional operation method, are expressed by disguise, parody, and returning to the nature. First, fur as disguise is intended to hide sexually perverse, decadent characteristics and expensiveness of fur by texturing or patterning techniques. Second, fur as parody uses fake fur or dyed fur in order to satirize erotically and ethnographically fetishized meanings of fur. Third, aboriginal design of fur is adapted to use symbolic values outside the West, which can potentially mobilize antagonistic oppositions out of their fetishistic regimes. In conclusion, fur as sign of female sexuality and its libidinal profits of exchange, has significant symbolic values expressed in fashion.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.164-173
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• 2013

This study starts from the genealogical analysis of the urban public spaces through local history of Seoul which is significantly different from western countries. The analysis targets the discourse on the urban street, the basic unit of urban tissue and the settlement condition in urban life, which defines urban space-structure among the urban public spaces. And this research classifies and categorizes the value recognition and policy value occurred each period. Based on these, this research defines the progress levels of urban public design policy in Seoul as follows. Results Firstly, 1890's and 1900's was the period of development in commerce and industry, which caused congested and crowded streets. The open port policy allowed the experience of the foreign circumstance, and thus the identity of the urban streets and the value of symbolism come to realize among the society. During the Japanese colonization, urban streets put on modernized images through the urban remodeling out of the context according to the colonization policy. The brand-new values such as publicness and amenity are injected as well as modern regulations by system and authority. From Liberation to 1950's, it performed only street restoration as a repair from war with Japanese colonial system because of the political confusion and administrative vacuum. Finally, each period can be defined as follows. 1890's and 1900's can be defined as 'spontaneous finding the modernization' because urban street was intentionally transformed by the empire. Period of the Japanese colonization can be defined as 'the formation of modernized urban street concept and the compulsion of modernized regulation.' And period of from Liberation to 1950's, can be called as 'the absence of value recognition and maintenance of colonial system.' methodology.

• Journal of Contemporary Eastern Asia
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.112-129
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• 2018

Produced by Chinese local television stations, Maritime Silk Road is a documentary which adopts ancient Maritime Silk Road as a historical nostalgia to interpret "the Belt and Road Initiative", a contemporary Chinese economic, political, and cultural strategy put forward by Chinese government mainly aiming at the countries of Southeast Asia. The main body of this article has three parts and the first part analyses how the documentary adopts computer-generated imagery (CGI) to create a historical nostalgia about ancient Maritime Silk Road in the period of Imperial China. At the same time, this part also presents a sense of diasporic nostalgia of the overseas Chinese. This historical and diasporic nostalgia is related to Chinese President Xi Jinping's political discourse: "Chinese dream" that propagandises to build a strong China put forward by Xi in 2013. The second part analyses how this historical and diasporic nostalgia legitimates Xi's "Chinese dream" and how it responds to recent territorial dispute when China continuously claims its territorial sovereignty in the South China Sea. In this light, the documentary repeatedly mentions two political rhetoric: "coexistence" (gongcun) and "mutual benefit"(huli gongying) as a practical strategy to deal with the dispute between China and some countries of Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN). In the third section, the concept of "community of common destiny" (mingyun gongtongti) is adopted by the documentary to depict a convenient and effective organization of China and ASEAN, which is framed as an ultimate goal that Chinese government is depicted as the potential leader of this nostalgic community. At the same time, by providing different and even opposite viewpoints, this article discusses three controversial political rhetoric to present how historical and diasporic nostalgia is politicalized and served for Chinese diplomacy and national interest. Overall, this article argues that the documentary creates a glorious ancient Maritime Silk Road, as a sense of nostalgia, to expand China's economic and political influence, to respond to the controversial issues, and to reassert China's leadership as the centre of Asia.

• Safety and Health at Work
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.347-355
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• 2017

Background: The objective of this article is to make some analysis on the process of work and accidents occurring in slaughterhouses, evidenced in the Brazilian documentary film called Flesh and Bone. As such, it was necessary to discuss an alternative theoretical concept in relation to theories about health and safety at work. This alternative discussion focuses on the concepts of biopower and biopolitics. Methods: The use of audiovisual elements in research is not new, and there is already a branch of studies with methodological and epistemological variations. The Brazilian documentary Flesh and Bone was the basis for the research. The analysis of this documentary will be carried out from two complementary perspectives: "textual analysis" and "discourse analysis." Results: Flesh and Bone presents problems related to health and safety at work in slaughterhouses because of the constant exposure of workers to knives, saws, and other sharp instruments in the workplace. The results show that in favor of higher production levels, increased overseas market sales, and stricter quality controls, some manufacturers resort to various practices that often result in serious injuries, disposal, and health damages to workers. Conclusion: Flesh and Bone, by itself, makes this explicit in the form of denunciation based on the situation of these workers. What it does not make clear is that, in the context of biopolitics, the actions aimed at solving these problems or even reducing the negative impacts for this group of workers, are not efficient enough to change such practices.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.936-953
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• 2016

This article surveys the meaning and history of fashion museum exhibitions to understand the characteristics that make a fashion museum exhibition special. It explores dress museology and fashion museology in theory, and practice across a range of international case studies that include the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, Mode Museum in Antwerp, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. In particular, it examines how curatorial intervention has developed the interpretation and display techniques of dress within the context of the museum or gallery as well as how fashion has made museums accessible to diverse audiences. For a specific case study, we review the types and roles of fashion exhibitions organized by the Simone Handbag Museum, Seoul. It is the first handbag-centered fashion museum in the world as well as one of the most representative local fashion museums. The museum collection includes fashionable western handbags from rare specimens of the $15^{th}$ century to the latest bags of the $21^{st}$ century, and presents a history of changing fashion cycles and the major socio-cultural shifts that have profoundly affected women's lives in public spaces. Exhibitions show the perspective to a range of curatorial methodologies and show the innovative approaches towards collections and displays with broader fashion issues such as gender, materialism and technology. The article is to help encourage further scholar discourse between fashion museum exhibitions and fashion museology.

• Korean journal of communication and information
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• v.33
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• pp.253-285
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• 2006

This study focuses on the on-line civic social movement which is based on the individual dimension. This kind of on-line social movement is organized voluntarily by the citizens who have the common concerns about issues and problems raised in the net. In the context, this paper analyzes what is the characteristics of discourse formed in the process of public discussion concerned about the anti-Nix movement. And, this study also analyzed who was processed the anti-Nix movement through which steps and what kinds of way in the case of anti-nix movement. Based on the research results, the anti-Nix movement is led by the organizer of the movement and the active participants of it. This study also found out that the various movement strategies of the site organizer were the major reasons of the success of anti-Nix movement. This study also found out that the discussion board of anti-Nix movement is close to the function and role of traditional public sphere rather than those of the swearwords and libels.

• The Korean Journal of Archival Studies
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• no.38
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• pp.189-223
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• 2013

From the perspective of postmodernism, no reality can exceed the discourse included in the representation. Recently, impact of post-modernism of archival science is often observed. Affected by postmodernism in archival science studies, archives are deliberately constructed product, and any kind of archival principle is negatively examined, not only contents but also its planning accordingly to the researches of post-modernism archives. In the eye of postmodernism, archivists are also considered as being exposed to the context of relativity. While this is sometimes seen as negative, there are such positive opinions that postmodernism would bring us closer to the reality of archives. In this paper, the nature of archives, provenance, original order and archival value as the basic concept of the modern archival science, will be discussed from the perspective of postmodernism. Also, effect and prospect of postmodernism will be discussed.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.50
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• pp.261-281
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• 2018

This was originally from the preceding research, '50 years of Sade's Studies,' and we have submitted this thesis by reorganizing it carefully in a paper format. To understand Sade, we had to go through and consider certain characteristics that the critics were reluctant to reveal. In other words, the revelation of the polythony throughout the work, the contradictory philosophical discourse of the characters, and the fact that Marquis' work is a situational text are factors to consider in this case. People have studied Sade disregarding these characteristics for a long period of time. Especially those groups of professional critics, has taken only a certain amount of Sade's work for their theoretical justification. As a result, the work of Sade became unreadable. Fortunately, researchers since 1990 have refused to continue the habitual of regarding Sade in the same light as his characters, and have instead focused on the process of researching the fundamentals based on the correct data, history and ideological context. We think that the research of those who have caused reverberations to the academic world would be the key point to the Studies of Sade in the future research.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.595-607
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• 2021

In response to increasing demand of contactless services, the overall usage of "task-oriented chatbots" in the industry is on the rise. The purpose of a task-oriented chatbot is to raise the efficiency of data sharing and workflow; in order to establish a guideline, there must be a discussion on "what" and "how" to share information. We investigate the effects of personalization and different types of the interface on 'performance expectancy', 'effort expectancy', 'intention to use', and 'satisfaction' in the context of a task-oriented chatbot. Results show that 'intention to use' and 'satisfaction' were higher when the level of personalization was higher. Within the closed-discourse interface, 'intention to use' and 'satisfaction' were higher when personalization was lower. We highlight the practical insights in the use of personalization and types of chatbot interface based on 'perceived personalization', 'expectation disconfirmation theory', 'privacy concern' and 'privacy paradox'.

• Journal of Science and Technology Studies
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.55-95
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• 2008

This research was performed with the aim of analyzing the 'expectation dynamics' of embryonic stem cell research which was revealed throughout the establishment process of Stem Cell Research Center from 2000 to 2002. Expectation dynamics is a chained process: expectation construction - raising fund - performing research. Normally, researchers are considerably circumspect and politically neutral in assessing the result of research. However, some researchers are very involved in building the expectation dynamics by developing an overestimated impact of the result, which can be understood as a kind of strategy for solving the financial problem and defending the criticism in terms of bioethics. Nowadays Biotechnology R&D costs a big budget and requires large site human resources, so building the expectation dynamics is a decisive element for a successful R&D performance, which makes the strategy-development in the political context much more important. By analyzing the actors-network of embryonic stem cell research in term of 'expectation dynamics', we can clarify the identify of embryonic stem cell researchers and draw a conclusion which is very helpful for decision makers and the public to make a decision related with embryonic stem cells.