• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.1 no.1
• /
• pp.71-83
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study is to analyze the present fashion phenomenon by considering the types of street fashion, the center of avant-grade modern fashion, that shows the origination background and special feature concretely. The times was defined through the 1980's from World War II that street style originated, so the range of study was the 1990's when the street style was influenced by that of the past and was revived. The ways of study were to analyze the records of ideology, art and music connected with the street style from World War II to the present when it has risen. The summary of result is as follows. (1) In the 1940's, Zooties was the jet of desire suppressed by African-Americans that couldn't receive favors socially and economically and Hipsters pursued reformative bebop that made up of soft Jazz. In the 1950's, Modernists were running after Cool Jazz to the minimum. In the 1970's, Funk appered in the sexual desire and erotic strength, and was surfaced from Negro Getto. In the 1980's B-boys & Flygirls showed the street style by the scribble art of slum in the New York. As mentioned above, In the 1990's, Acid Jazz influenced by the Jazz of Negro has been the fashion added to the tradition of musical form that come from eclecticism of Jazz tended Neo-Jazz. (2) In the 1940's, Western style dreamed the country life because of rapid urbanization. In the 1950's, Beat obtained the feeling of liberation from the dissolute life and activity. In the 1960's, Psychedelics showed the freedom affected by the Pop-art and Op-art, and Hippies pursued the true individuality as 'love & peace' life style and the return to nature. In the 1990's, Grunge look influenced by the above has been fashion that shows the practical use of second-hand clothing or patchwork contrary to elitism. (3) In the 1940's, Caribbean style appered in the typical textile color with the center of West Indies. In the 1960's, Rude boys showed the magnificence and difficulty of Jamaica, and Rastafarians had a tendency to come back to the ancient civilization of America. In the 1970's, Two-tone was the simple clothing for harmonizing among human races. In the 1990's, Jamaica look influenced by the above has been the Lege fashion introduced to a high fashion, appearing in the special bright color, applique, unique hair style, and so on. (4) In the 1950's, Sufers pursued natural rhythm, getting out of everything. In the 1970' s, Skaters enjoyed the speed on the paved road. In the 1980's, Casuals emphasized the spirit of cooperation of young-things. In the 1990's, Casual look Influenced by the above has been the fashion that forms the activity, function and strong spirit of cooperation by pursuing comfortable life and sports in the tension of life and variety of modern society. (5) It was hard for Bikers to adjust themselves in society after the war. In the 1950's, Coffee bar cowboys were the reckless running boys in the leather jacket. In the 1960's, Rockers created the group originality as disobedient outsiders and Greasers imitated Rolling Stones. In the 1980's, Punks resisted the viewpoint of the old generation in offensive fashion. In the 1990's, Cyberpunk influenced by the above has pursued the classless structure, electronic music and metallic clothing that forebodes gloomily as the computer generation of ultra-modern science times. Accordingly, in understanding a complex modern fashion phenomenon, it was analyzed that the street styles of the past, from World War II to the 1980's, were reflected in that of the 1990's dividing into the five types in a word, namely Acid Jazz, Grunge look, Jamaica look, Casual look and Cyberpunk.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
• /
• v.23 no.1
• /
• pp.47-55
• /
• 1981

Silk textile finishing has been studied for many years by many workers in order to meet more utilities for various endusers. Such studies, however, could not be successful because any natural fibers are hardly change their natures by artificial treating methods. Textile finishing is of course to improve the mechandise qualities and the poor natures of silk so that it may be available as the best textile fiber in the world. Sometimes, famous trade marked textile plays more power than its quality in the silk market, nevertheless, this should be over line of research activities. Meantime, the silk demand has been also transferred from ladies stocking to other clothes since nylon or other synthetic fibers were developed. That is why, the extension of silk demand should be developed by various research works. Specially, silk is known as difficult textile to handle it during washing or ironing process which happened to depress down the silk usage for house wives. In order to solve such problems, the reporter has been worked for many years and now, he believes that he has developed a proper finishing method to coversuch problems. The developed finishing method may be said to eligible with economical aspect and shorten the dry duration after water washing in half against normal silk textile without harming the specific silk nature. As all of us know, silk fiber starts to denature since it was spinned by silkworm and the fiber is formed as overlapped "S" type curves during its concooning process. After it is made as raw silk or sericin silk, it shows as straight line form, but it changes in to waved form in case refining or degumming process in order return to its original spinned form. Such nature is continued during its textile form and ends with hard ironing nature than other textile fibers. Mean while, the silk fiber keeps to continue its denaturing and this is iniciated by repeat of washing and drying which takes many years to reach its final stage, The reporter has found the iniciating denature of silk by his finishing process, with out heat, decreasing the swollen nature which ended with shortening the drying duration after wash. Each washing was carried out by soaking the previously weighed sample in cold water for one hour, then pressed the sample for ten minutes to eliminate its free water component before weighing with same condition. According to this, the treated silk showed much denaturing after the finishing, but the standard silk progressed the denaturing by and by with the repeat of washing and drying, finally reached the same swollen degree of treated silk, Such treating result explains that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other hand, standard silk may reach to such condition by the time of worn out clothes after repeat of washing and drying for many years while the clothes will be no more useful. The decreased swelling nature has brought about the drying period in half against standard silk after all. Not only the tests of tenacity and elongation but also crease resistance recovery, stiffness and shrinkage tests were carried out after each washing and drying which he has found better result on the treated silk textile against the standard silk. The most important thing was to keep the textile feeling of silk by such finishing work before improve any poor nature of silk. The general silk has a nature to absorb smoke or dirt from its surrounding air and reaches to dirty color shade upon such exposure, but the treated one has improved such nature because of its artificial denaturing, another word, it keeps clean longer than the normal silk. Many previous finishing works could improve some specific nature of silk, but it happened to deprave other important natures. The reporters work is, however, specialized to improve the silk to be useful as Wash and Wear Silk without harming its standard natures. So far, this work happened to be a overall innovative finishing method of silk textile.

• Sleep Medicine and Psychophysiology
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.5-13
• /
• 2014

Objectives: Depression, sleep complaints and cognitive impairments are commonly observed in the elderly. Elderly subjects with depressive symptoms have been found to show both poor cognitive performances and sleep disturbances. However, the relationship between sleep complaints and cognitive dysfunction in elderly depression is not clear. The aim of this study is to identify the association between sleep disturbances and cognitive decline in late-life depression. Methods: A total of 282 elderly people who underwent nocturnal polysomnography in a sleep laboratory were enrolled in the study. The Korean version of the Neuropsychological Assessment Battery developed by the Consortium to Establish a Registry for Alzheimer's Disease (CERAD-K) was applied to evaluate cognitive function. Depressive symptoms were assessed with the geriatric depression scale (GDS) and subjective sleep quality was measured using the Pittsburg sleep quality index (PSQI). Results: The control group ($GDS{\leq}9$) when compared with mild ($10{\leq}GDS{\leq}16$) and severe ($17{\leq}GDS$) depression groups, had significantly different scores in the Trail making test part B (TMT-B), Benton visual retention test part A (BVRT-A), and Stroop color and word test (SCWT)(all tests p<0.05). The PSQI score, REM sleep duration, apnea-hypopnea index and oxygen desaturation index were significantly different across the three groups (all indices, p<0.05). A stepwise multiple regression model showed that educational level, age and GDS score were predictive for both TMT-B time (adjusted $R^2$=35.6%, p<0.001) and BVRT-A score (adjusted $R^2$=28.3%, p<0.001). SCWT score was predicted by educational level, age, apnea-hypopnea index (AHI) and GDS score (adjusted $R^2$=20.6%, p<0.001). Poor sleep quality and sleep structure alterations observed in depression did not have any significant effects on cognitive deterioration. Conclusion: Older adults with depressive symptoms showed mild sleep alterations and poor cognitive performances. However, we found no association between sleep disturbances (except sleep apnea) and cognitive difficulties in elderly subjects with depressive symptoms. It is possible that the impact of sleep disruptions on cognitive abilities was hindered by the confounding effect of age, education and depressive symptoms.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.56 no.2
• /
• pp.80-98
• /
• 2023

In the late Joseon Dynasty, when the bride would ride a palanquin when she went to live with her in-laws, it was a custom to cover the palanquin with tiger skin to ward off misfortunes that may come her way. The higher classes used tiger skin or leopard skin for this purpose, but the common people had to substitute this expensive item with a tiger pattern painted on a blanket. Such blankets were called hotanja, hogu, hoguyok and the like. The term "hotanja" is a pure Korean word. It is not known when the cover for the bridal palanquin was first used, but it was popular from the end of the 19^th century and then gradually disappeared. This is due to the introduction of new Western style weddings that eliminated the need for a bridal palanquin. The tiger print blanket was used not only to cover the bride's palanquin but also to cover a table or floor during the wedding ceremony. This study ran a material analysis on nine pieces of tiger print blankets. All of the blanket artifacts examined in this study had an outer cover and a lining made of fabric that used cotton thread for the warp and wool thread for the weft. Two kinds of wool were found in the weft thread in the outer covers: fat-tailed sheep hair from China and goat hair for carpets from the Hebei province, China. Records show that "blankets with painted tiger patterns" were imported from Russia, and the imported blankets were from Russia and China. The outer cover can be categorized into six types, and the lining into three types depending on the weave and direction of the thread twist. The hem facing can be divided into four types. The lining and outer cover use the full width of the fabric, which was woven in wide widths of 135 cm or wider. The tiger pattern on the blanket was made by stenciling. The stencil design of the body and tail of the tiger were placed on a red blanket to be painted in white, and then the background color of the tiger, which is yellow, would be painted over the white, and then black stripes would be added. The pattern of the tiger varies, which shows that the blankets were made by various craftspeople. The pattern of the tiger print blanket is usually of a tiger lying down, but there were tiger print blankets with a tiger standing up. The pattern of the tiger grew smaller over time, and flower patterns were added in the background. Decorative elements were gradually added to the tiger print blanket patterns, but its function as a palanquin cover became lost. By taking the features of tiger print blankets into consideration, it can be assumed that there are imported pieces among the remaining pieces, and were produced in various places because it was popular at that time.

• Korean Journal of Health Psychology
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.277-292
• /
• 2009

This study investigated the responses of the autonomic nervous system of individuals with Type D personality during an acute stressful situation. Twenty-three female students of Type D personality and 23 female students with non-Type D personality. Stroop Color-Word Task was used to induce a stressful situation, heart rate variability (HRV) was used to measure the responses of the autonomic nervous system during the baseline, acute stress, recovery periods. To analyze the data, the repeated measures analysis of variance was used to compare the autonomic nervous system of the Type D group to that of the non-Type D group. Regression analysis is used to determine if the Type D scale and stress vulnerability predicted the activities of the autonomic nervous system during the baseline period. The results of this study demonstrated that the Type D group's normalized low frequency (LF norm) and ratio of low frequency to high frequency (LF/HF ratio) were higher than those for the non-Type D group, while its normalized high frequency (HF norm) was lower than that for the non-Type D group in all three periods. There were no statistically significant differences among the three periods in terms of LF norm, HF norm, and LF/HF ratio in the Type D group. The study demonstrated that the total scores of the Type DS-14 and scores of social inhibition and negative affect were independent predictors of LF norm and HF norm during the baseline. The Type D group showed increased activation of the sympathetic nervous system and/or decreased activation of the parasympathetic nervous system. These results support the hypothesis that the Type D personality is vulnerable to the stress. Also, the highly activated sympathetic and/or lowly activated parasympathetic nervous systems, which were observed in the Type D group during the baseline, indicated that the Type D individual is susceptible to psychosomatic disorders.

• Journal of Intelligence and Information Systems
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.89-105
• /
• 2014

After emergence of Internet, social media with highly interactive Web 2.0 applications has provided very user friendly means for consumers and companies to communicate with each other. Users have routinely published contents involving their opinions and interests in social media such as blogs, forums, chatting rooms, and discussion boards, and the contents are released real-time in the Internet. For that reason, many researchers and marketers regard social media contents as the source of information for business analytics to develop business insights, and many studies have reported results on mining business intelligence from Social media content. In particular, opinion mining and sentiment analysis, as a technique to extract, classify, understand, and assess the opinions implicit in text contents, are frequently applied into social media content analysis because it emphasizes determining sentiment polarity and extracting authors' opinions. A number of frameworks, methods, techniques and tools have been presented by these researchers. However, we have found some weaknesses from their methods which are often technically complicated and are not sufficiently user-friendly for helping business decisions and planning. In this study, we attempted to formulate a more comprehensive and practical approach to conduct opinion mining with visual deliverables. First, we described the entire cycle of practical opinion mining using Social media content from the initial data gathering stage to the final presentation session. Our proposed approach to opinion mining consists of four phases: collecting, qualifying, analyzing, and visualizing. In the first phase, analysts have to choose target social media. Each target media requires different ways for analysts to gain access. There are open-API, searching tools, DB2DB interface, purchasing contents, and so son. Second phase is pre-processing to generate useful materials for meaningful analysis. If we do not remove garbage data, results of social media analysis will not provide meaningful and useful business insights. To clean social media data, natural language processing techniques should be applied. The next step is the opinion mining phase where the cleansed social media content set is to be analyzed. The qualified data set includes not only user-generated contents but also content identification information such as creation date, author name, user id, content id, hit counts, review or reply, favorite, etc. Depending on the purpose of the analysis, researchers or data analysts can select a suitable mining tool. Topic extraction and buzz analysis are usually related to market trends analysis, while sentiment analysis is utilized to conduct reputation analysis. There are also various applications, such as stock prediction, product recommendation, sales forecasting, and so on. The last phase is visualization and presentation of analysis results. The major focus and purpose of this phase are to explain results of analysis and help users to comprehend its meaning. Therefore, to the extent possible, deliverables from this phase should be made simple, clear and easy to understand, rather than complex and flashy. To illustrate our approach, we conducted a case study on a leading Korean instant noodle company. We targeted the leading company, NS Food, with 66.5% of market share; the firm has kept No. 1 position in the Korean "Ramen" business for several decades. We collected a total of 11,869 pieces of contents including blogs, forum contents and news articles. After collecting social media content data, we generated instant noodle business specific language resources for data manipulation and analysis using natural language processing. In addition, we tried to classify contents in more detail categories such as marketing features, environment, reputation, etc. In those phase, we used free ware software programs such as TM, KoNLP, ggplot2 and plyr packages in R project. As the result, we presented several useful visualization outputs like domain specific lexicons, volume and sentiment graphs, topic word cloud, heat maps, valence tree map, and other visualized images to provide vivid, full-colored examples using open library software packages of the R project. Business actors can quickly detect areas by a swift glance that are weak, strong, positive, negative, quiet or loud. Heat map is able to explain movement of sentiment or volume in categories and time matrix which shows density of color on time periods. Valence tree map, one of the most comprehensive and holistic visualization models, should be very helpful for analysts and decision makers to quickly understand the "big picture" business situation with a hierarchical structure since tree-map can present buzz volume and sentiment with a visualized result in a certain period. This case study offers real-world business insights from market sensing which would demonstrate to practical-minded business users how they can use these types of results for timely decision making in response to on-going changes in the market. We believe our approach can provide practical and reliable guide to opinion mining with visualized results that are immediately useful, not just in food industry but in other industries as well.

• Journal of Global Scholars of Marketing Science
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.68-79
• /
• 2009

The interplay between hedonic and utilitarian attributes has assumed special significance in recent years; it has been proposed that consumption offerings should be viewed as experiences that stimulate both cognitions and feelings rather than as mere products or services. This research builds on previous work on hedonic versus utilitarian benefits, regulatory focus theory, customer satisfaction to address two question: (1) Is the shopping goal at the point of purchase different from the shopping value? and (2) Is the customer loyalty after the use different from the shopping value and shopping goal? We surveyed 345 peoples those who have bought the electronic-goods within 6 months. This research dealt with the shopping value which is consisted of 2 types, hedonic and utilitarian. Those who pursue the hedonic shopping value may prefer the pleasure of purchasing experience to the product itself. They tend to prefer atmosphere, arousal of the shopping experience. Consistent with previous research, we use the term "hedonic" to refer to their aesthetic, experiential and enjoyment-related value. On the contrary, Those who pursue the utilitarian shopping value may prefer the reasonable buying. It may be more functional. Consistent with previous research, we use the term "utilitarian" to refer to the functional, instrumental, and practical value of consumption offerings. Holbrook(1999) notes that consumer value is an experience that results from the consumption of such benefits. In the context of cell phones for example, the phone's battery life and sound volume are utilitarian benefits, whereas aesthetic appeal from its shape and color are hedonic benefits. Likewise, in the case of a car, fuel economics and safety are utilitarian benefits whereas the sunroof and the luxurious interior are hedonic benefits. The shopping goals are consisted of the promotion focus goal and the prevention focus goal, based on the self-regulatory focus theory. The promotion focus is characterized into focusing ideal self because they are oriented to wishes and vision. The promotion focused individuals are tend to be more risk taking. They are more sensitive to hope and achievement. On the contrary, the prevention focused individuals are characterized into focusing the responsibilities because they are oriented to safety. The prevention focused individuals are tend to be more risk avoiding. We wanted to test the relation among the shopping value, shopping goal and customer loyalty. Customers show the positive or negative feelings comparing with the expectation level which customers have at the point of the purchase. If the result were bigger than the expectation, customers may feel positive feeling such as delight or satisfaction and they would want to share their feelings with other people. And they want to buy those products again in the future time. There is converging evidence that the types of goals consumers expect to be fulfilled by the utilitarian dimension of a product are different from those they seek from the hedonic dimension (Chernev 2004). Specifically, whereas consumers expect the fulfillment of product prevention goals on the utilitarian dimension, they expect the fulfillment of promotion goals on the hedonic dimension (Chernev 2004; Chitturi, Raghunathan, and Majahan 2007; Higgins 1997, 2001) According to the regulatory focus theory, prevention goals are those that ought to be met. Fulfillment of prevention goals in the context of product consumption eliminates or significantly reduces the probability of a painful experience, thus making consumers experience emotions that result from fulfillment of prevention goals such as confidence and securities. On the contrary, fulfillment of promotion goals are those that a person aspires to meet, such as "looking cool" or "being sophisticated." Fulfillment of promotion goals in the context of product consumption significantly increases the probability of a pleasurable experience, thus enabling consumers to experience emotions that result from the fulfillment of promotion goals. The proposed conceptual framework captures that the relationships among hedonic versus utilitarian shopping values and promotion versus prevention shopping goals respectively. An analysis of the consequence of the fulfillment and frustration of utilitarian and hedonic value is theoretically worthwhile. It is also substantively relevant because it helps predict post-consumption behavior such as the promotion versus prevention shopping goals orientation. Because our primary goal is to understand how the post consumption feelings influence the variable customer loyalty: word of mouth (Jacoby and Chestnut 1978). This research result is that the utilitarian shopping value gives the positive influence to both of the promotion and prevention goal. However the influence to the prevention goal is stronger. On the contrary, hedonic shopping value gives influence to the promotion focus goal only. Additionally, both of the promotion and prevention goal show the positive relation with customer loyalty. However, the positive relation with promotion goal and customer loyalty is much stronger. The promotion focus goal gives the influence to the customer loyalty. On the contrary, the prevention focus goal relates at the low level of relation with customer loyalty than that of the promotion goal. It could be explained that it is apt to get framed the compliment of people into 'gain-non gain' situation. As the result, for those who have the promotion focus are motivated to deliver their own feeling to other people eagerly. Conversely the prevention focused individual are more sensitive to the 'loss-non loss' situation. The research result is consistent with pre-existent researches. There is a conceptual parallel between necessities-needs-utilitarian benefits and luxuries-wants-hedonic benefits (Chernev 2004; Chitturi, Raghunathan and Majaha 2007; Higginns 1997; Kivetz and Simonson 2002b). In addition, Maslow's hierarchy of needs and the precedence principle contends luxuries-wants-hedonic benefits higher than necessities-needs-utilitarian benefits. Chitturi, Raghunathan and Majaha (2007) show that consumers are focused more on the utilitarian benefits than on the hedonic benefits of a product until their minimum expectation of fulfilling prevention goals are met. Furthermore, a utilitarian benefit is a promise of a certain level of functionality by the manufacturer or the retailer. When the promise is not fulfilled, customers blame the retailer and/or the manufacturer. When negative feelings are attributable to an entity, customers feel angry. However in the case of hedonic benefit, the customer, not the manufacturer, determines at the time of purchase whether the product is stylish and attractive. Under such circumstances, customers are more likely to blame themselves than the manufacturer if their friends do not find the product stylish and attractive. Therefore, not meeting minimum utilitarian expectations of functionality generates a much more intense negative feelings, such as anger than a less intense feeling such as disappointment or dissatisfactions. The additional multi group analysis of this research shows the same result. Those who are unsatisfactory customers who have the prevention focused goal shows higher relation with WOM, comparing with satisfactory customers. The research findings in this article could have significant implication for the personal selling fields to increase the effectiveness and the efficiency of the sales such that they can develop the sales presentation strategy for the customers. For those who are the hedonic customers may be apt to show more interest to the promotion goal. Therefore it may work to strengthen the design, style or new technology of the products to the hedonic customers. On the contrary for the utilitarian customers, it may work to strengthen the price competitiveness. On the basis of the result from our studies, we demonstrated a correspondence among hedonic versus utilitarian and promotion versus prevention goal, WOM. Similarly, we also found evidence of the moderator effects of satisfaction after use, between the prevention goal and WOM. Even though the prevention goal has the low level of relation to WOM, those who are not satisfied show higher relation to WOM. The relation between the prevention goal and WOM is significantly different according to the satisfaction versus unsatisfaction. In addition, improving the promotion emotions of cheerfulness and excitement and the prevention emotion of confidence and security will further improve customer loyalty. A related potential further research could be to examine whether hedonic versus utilitarian, promotion versus prevention goals improve customer loyalty for services as well. Under the budget and time constraints, designers and managers are often compelling to choose among various attributes. If there is no budget or time constraints, perhaps the best solution is to maximize both hedonic and utilitarian dimension of benefits. However, they have to make trad-off process between various attributes. For the designers and managers have to keep in mind that without hedonic benefit satisfaction of the product it may hard to lead the customers to the customer loyalty.