• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.342-359
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• 2018

This research investigated the relationship between the amount of fixed pigment and the color of silk dyed with three types of fermented indigo powder dye under different temperatures and pH, by reduction or nonreduction method. Amount of fixed pigment was analyzed using the Ultimate 3000 HPLC-DAD instrument and the color of dyed silk was measured using the X-rite spectrocolorimeter. All silk samples dyed by reduction method showed PB color. The amount of indigotin fixation was dependent on the dyeing temperature and pH regardless of the indigotin composition in the dye. Indirubin was less dependent upon the dyeing condition in the reduction dyeing and its fixation was minimum level. Dyeing conditions which can maximize the indigotin fixation were $50^{\circ}C/pH$ 11 and $70^{\circ}C/pH$ 7 conditions in reduction dyeing. Color of silk showed more redness ($a^*$) thus higher PB color when the indigotin fixation was low and indirubin fixation was relatively high. Indirubin fixation was very low with slightly better fixation by nonreduction method. More reddish color was obtained by nonreduction dyeing, and by more alkaline dyebath.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.1009-1023
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• 2011

This study was carried out to investigate the variations of catechu dyed fabrics under UV irradiation. Catechu dyed cotton and silk fabrics mordanted with Fe and Cu were irradiated with UV under dry and wet conditions, and then were evaluated on color changes and mechanical properties. Owing to UV irradiation, the K/S values of catechu dyed cotton fabrics increased until a certain amount of time but those of catechu-dyed silk fabrics increased continuously. Cu mordanting cotton fabrics showed the smallest changes due to the UV treatment, and silk fabrics mordanted with Fe showed the largest changes. Wetted fabrics were accelerated maillard browning by UV. Un-mordanted cotton fabrics treated with UV under dry conditions changed its YR color to Y, but changed its Y color to YR under wet conditions. However, mordanted cotton fabrics treated with UV didn't change their color. Dyed silk fabrics except those Fe mordanted and in wet conditions continued to keep their color after UV irradiation. Silk fabric mordanted with Fe under wet conditions changed its Y color to YR by UV irradiation. UV irradiation didn't affect the mechanical properties of catechu-dyed cotton and silk fabrics in any significant way.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.31-43
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• 1997

The costumes on a royal ceremony and the changes thereafter during the Korea Empire(1897-1910) have been elucidated through the review on the paintings on Queen Myong-Hun's 70th birthday celebration and the prospectus of the ceremony. Queen Myong-Hyn wore ceremonial gown in deep blue with 51 embroidered phoenix on it. The deep blue color the royal color in the Korea Empire replaced former red color. Go-jong wore violet crown and ceremonial suit in gold color. Twenty one kinds of court dance were offered during the celebration ceremony. Costumes therein appear to have an order according to the role ofdancers. most female dancers(in 17 performances not else-where specified) wore a rather common cos-tume-flower cap outer silk garent in green hand veils in 5 colors silk skirt in red) embroidered silk belt in red and shoes in green. In Sun-you-ak two female lead dancers were red hat decorated with tiger whisker deep blue outer garment wide red belt silk boots in black bow and arrows on back and a sword and a whip in hands. In Choonaang-jon a fe-male solo dancer wore a silk outer garment in yellow silk skirt in red green lorum embroidered silk belt in red wrist band of gold embroidered red silk and 5 color hand veils. In Yon-wha-dae two young girl dancers wore lotus-form crown green outer garment wide pants in red silk red silk skirt red silk belt hand veils in jade color and silk shoes in deep red. In Moo-go 4 female dancers each wore long waist coat in blue red white and warm light green in addition to the above-mentioned common costume. In Gumkee-moo 4 female dancers wore hatlike wool helmet outer garment with narrow sleeve long silk waist coat in blue combat belt in deep blue silk and dance swords in both hands. In Youk-wha-dae 6 female dancers each wore a long waist cost in red deep blue violet pale pink green and jade color. Green color of outer garment in the above-mentioned common costume of female dancers appears intersting. Although the color was shown as yellow in the screen paintings actually it was green as evidenced by the prospectus of the celeebration ceremony.

• Korean Journal of Rural Living Science
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.28-36
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to examine the best condition for dyeing silk in green color used kudzu-vine leaves which were available everywhere in our country except winter. Dyeing experiments were done under various dyeing conditions according to extracting method of dyebath from kudsu-vine leaves, pH of dyebath, dyeing time, concentration of dyebath and mordants which were treated after dyeing. Color difference ($\Delta$E) and Munsell's HV/C and color fastness to drycleaning, washing, perspiration and light were measured. The main results were as follows : 1. The color difference of dyed silk increased in dyebath B & C which were extracted in alkali water comparing with dyebath A which was extracted in distilled water. In dyebath B & C, the color difference was the highest in case of dyebath pH 5.0. 2. The colors of fabrics dyed in dyebath A were mainly yellow and the colors in dyebath B & C were yellow green. 3. The color differences of dyed silk increased according to dyeing time and concentration of dyebath. 4. The color were changed with the treatment of mordants. The most strong green color could get in Cu mordant treatment in dyebath C, pH 5.0, and concentration 4. 5. The peak of reflectance within the visible light of the fabric dyed in the most strong green color could be seen in $\lambda$500-520nm. 6. On the whole, the colorfastness of experimental fabrics dyed in dyebath B, C and Cu mordant treatment was good except the colorfastness to the light.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.10-19
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• 2006

Despite several recent attempts to measure the concentration of individual catechins by HPLC, it has not been so easy to separate catechins accurately. The aim of the present work is to provide a proper condition for separating each component of catechins by HPLC analysis, and also to evaluate the experimental variables including color differences, and metal ion contents after dyeing and mordanting. Four kinds of Catechins, (-)-epicatechin(EC), (-)-epicatechin gallate(ECG), (-)-epigallocatechin(EgC), (-)-epigallocatechin gllate(EgCG) were isolated from the residues after dyeing. Catechins in Korean green tea leaves are richer when e tea leaves are younger. Higher concentration of catechins owes it to e way it is processed. The contents of catechins adsorbed in silk fabrics after dyeing were in order of EGCG>ECG>EGC>EC. We have found $68\%$ uptake of EGCG, and 116.8mg of EGCG in the silk fabrics after it was dyed with $1\%$ Korean green tea extracts. The absorbance intensity and K/S values of dyed silk fabrics were increased with dyeing temperature and time. Only the surface color of the silk fabric dyed with green tea extracts was yellowish red, but it changed from yellowish red to red with an increase in the mordant concentration. Post-mordanted silk fabrics with ferrous sulfate changed from yellowish red to red and purple color shade. In a practical evaluation, there is no significant change in color after twenty times of the continuous dry cleaning process. However, post-mordanted fabrics with ferrous sulfate faded the brightness of color after dry cleaning. Dyeing silk fabrics with a Korean tea extract reduced the metal ion contents in the silk fabrics when compared to the untreated silk fabrics. Metal contents in silk fabrics dyed and post-mordanted with $1\%$ each metal solution were 0.194 ppm for Aluminum, 1.601ppm for Copper, and 0.334 ppm for Iron. After the post-mordanting process, the heavy metal ion absorption increased, which was mainly attributed to the catechins and polyphenols in dyed silk fabrics.

• Korean Journal of Rural Living Science
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.83-91
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• 1997

In this study, the dyeability of natural dye extracted from chesnut shell was investigated in order to explore the using of discarded chesnut shell in natural dyeing. Dyeing experiments were done in various dyeing conditions which were different in dyeing temperature, concentration of dyebath, dyeing time, repitition of dyeing. pH of dyebath and mordant with 3 kinds of experimental fabrics silk, nylon and cotton. Color and color difference ($\Delta$ E) of every dyed fabrics were measured and color fastness to drycleaning, washing, perspiration and light were measured. The results were as follows ; 1. The dyebath became thicker with time and temperature of extraction and the characteristics of dyebath prepared chesnut shell 1g : distilled water 30㏄ after 3 hrs-boiling were 32,400ppm and 3.7pH. 2. The dyeabilities of silk and nylon fabrics were good and color difference was increased with dyeing temperature, concentration of dyebath, dyeing time, number of repitition and acidity of dyebath. But the dyeability of cotton was very poor compared to silk and nylon. 3. Without the treatment of mordant, the dyeability of silk was little lower than that of nylon, but after the treatment of mordants it became higher than nylon. After the treatment of mordant Cu and Fe, the dyeability of cotton was increased although the natural dye from the chesnut shell was hardly absorved in cotton without mordant. 4. On the whole, the colorfastness of dyed silk and nylon were very good except the colorfastness to washing in silk and the colorfastness to light in nylon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.506-513
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• 2013

Rubia cordifolia L (Indian madder) contains red color purpurin (65-67%) and yellow color munjistin (10-12%) as well as nordamncanthal (9-10%). Purpurin is a traditional red dye. The purpose of this research is to increase the dyeability of silk and light fastness of dyed silk fabric. We dyed silk fabrics after pretreatment to remove the yellow component of madder using various solvents such as ethyl acetate, ethanol, methanol, chloroform, and acetone. The total K/S value was the highest in the case of chloroform and reflectance was the lowest at the red color region from 470nm to 530nm. Chloroform dissolved the yellow color of Rubia cordifolia; in addition, we found that the total K/S value increased and the ${\Delta}E$ value decreased by chloroform pretreatment for silk dyeing.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.1-5
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• 2012

A newly developed silkworm variety, GoldenSilk makes bright yellow cocoon. In this article, the basic characteristics of GoldenSilk cocoon were examined through color analysis, degumming characteristics and UV spectrophotometer. The colorant of GoldenSilk cocoon was not distributed evenly throughout the cocoon layer but existed in the outer layer of the cocoon. The colorant has not good resistance against sunlight. The degumming loss percentage of GoldenSilk cocoon was 29.2%, which is relatively higher than that of the authorized one. UV spectrophotometer showed specific absorption band around 400 to 500 nm, which is the specific yellow colorant of the GoldenSilk cocoon extracted to the degumming solution during the degumming process.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.106-117
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• 2018

The present study was conducted to investigate dyeing properties and functionality of silk fabrics dyed with extracts from buckwheat skin. Comparative results of color strength(K/S) values of dyed silk fabrics were studied to quantify the effects of dye concentrations, dyeing temperatures, dyeing time and the pH; the effect of mordants; and color changes. And also evaluated the fastness, antimicrobial property, ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed and mordanted silk fabrics. The color strength(K/S) values of silk generally increased depending on the increasing dye concentration, dyeing temperature, and dyeing time. And the highest color strength values were obtained at a dye concentration of 100%(v/v), a dyeing temperature of $90^{\circ}C$, a dyeing of time 80 minutes, and a dyebath of pH 2. The color fastness to light of dyed and mordanted silk fabrics were found to be good, and the drycleaning and rubbing fastness were excellent. The fade of washing fastness was not good, however, the stain of washing fastness and perspiration fastness showed relatively good grade. The Al, Cu, Fe mordanted silk fabrics(except Fe for Klebsiella pneumoniae) showed 99.9% reduction rate. The ultraviolet protection properties of the mordanted fabrics were generally improved. Moreover, the Cu and Fe mordnared fabrics showed very exceptional ultraviolet protection factors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.5
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• pp.753-767
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• 2019

Dyeing behavior of indigo leaf powder was examined in regards to the effect of the amount of pigments on color and dye adsorption for silk dyed by reduction and nonreduction dyeing. The amount of indigotin and indirubin pigments adsorbed in dyed silk was examined by HPLC-DAD analysis. The color of dyed silk showed 7.7BG - 2.7B hue when silk was dyed at $50^{\circ}C$, and 3.5G - 4.9BG when dyed at $70^{\circ}C$. Blue ($b^*$) and green ($a^*$) color decreased as the pH of dyebath increased. When silk was dyed using nonreduction, R (red) and RP (red purple) hue and R hue was more apparent in samples dyed at $90^{\circ}C$. In reduction dyeing, amount of indigotin detected from silk exceeded the amount that was initially contained in the input dye. The amount of indirubin was lower than indirubin that was initially in the powder. In nonreduction dyeing, silk showed a higher amount of indirubin adsorption compared to silk dyed by reduction. The amount of indigotin adsorbed in silk was lower than the amount initially contained in the input dye. The amount of indigotin and indirubin adsorption was primarily dependent upon the dyeing method-reduction or nonreduction along with dyeing temperature and the pH of dyebath.