• 제목/요약/키워드: color expression

검색결과 709건 처리시간 0.027초

이너뷰티 소재로서의 생물전환된 가시오가피-진피 혼합 추출물의 생물학적 활성 (Biological Activity of Mixed Extracts of Acanthopanax senticosus and Citrus unshiu Fermented with Bovista plumbea for Inner Beauty)

  • 김은정;김소연;강수연;유영춘;윤택준;이계원;조영호
    • 생명과학회지
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    • 제33권7호
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    • pp.555-564
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    • 2023
  • 본 연구에서는 이너뷰티용 소재로서의 활용가능성을 확인하기 위하여 생물전환 가시오가피-진피 혼합추출물(B-MEAC)의 항산화 활성, 엘라스타제 억제활성 및 피부보습 효과 등을 평가하였다. B-MEAC의 항산화 활성을 측정한 결과 DPPH radical을 농도의존적으로 소거하여 SC50이 156.1±0.82 ㎍/ml로 나타났다. 또한, 엘라스타제 억제활성을 측정한 결과 B-MEAC 처리 농도 의존적으로 엘라스타제 활성을 억제하는 것으로 확인되었다(p<0.001). 경구투여한 B-MEAC가 마우스 피부 보습에 미치는 영향을 확인하기 위하여 피부 수분량과 경피수분손실량을 측정한 결과 건조유도 된 대조군에 비하여 피부 수분량은 증가하고(p<0.001), 경피수분손실량은 감소하는 것으로 나타났다(p<0.01). 또한, 건조유도 된 마우스 피부의 교원섬유 변화에 미치는 영향을 Masson's trichrome 염색을 통해 관찰한 결과 B-MEAC를 투여한 군에서 콜라겐의 양이 대조군에 비해 상대적으로 증가하여 푸른색으로 보다 진하게 염색되었다. 또한, 건조유도 된 마우스 피부의 보습 기능에 미치는 영향을 확인하기 위하여 보습 관련 인자들의 발현을 Western blot 기법으로 확인한 결과 B-MEAC를 투여한 군에서 대조군에 비하여 MMP-1 단백질의 발현량은 감소하였고, COL1A1, HAS2, filaggrin, AQP3 단백질 발현량은 회복되는 것으로 나타났다(p<0.001). 따라서 B-MEAC의 보습효과는 엘라스타제 활성 억제, MMP-1 발현 감소, 콜라겐 생성 촉진, 피부 보습 관련 단백질인 HAS2 및 AQP3 발현 증가, 피부 장벽기능의 중요인자인 filaggrin 발현 증가를 통한 수분량 증가와 TEWL 감소에 의해 나타나는 것으로 이너뷰티 소재로서의 개발 가능성을 제시한다.

중학교용 에너지 교육 자료 개발 연구 (A Study on Development of Energy Education Materials for Middle School Students)

  • 최돈형;이양락
    • 한국환경교육학회지:환경교육
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    • 제7권1호
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    • pp.46-87
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    • 1994
  • Our country has been consuming a huge amount of energy in the course of industrialization and its demand is expected to increase enormously in the future. However, the deposits of energy resources are so limited that the settlement of energy problem comes up the essential subject. To solve the energy problem, it is requested that new resources to gain energy stably should be developed and also energy should be economized and used effectively. The effective use of energy and an the wisdom of economy in energy are requested to everybody and these things should be habitualized from very young age through education. Nevertheless, almost every school in our country hasn’t been concerned about energy education. Even though they have a concern, they are very short of the energy education materials and the quality of the materials is not so good. Therefore it is very meaningful to the settlement of energy problem of the country to make the students who will lead our country to make the students who will lead our country in the future realize the seriousness of energy problem and to provide them the necessary knowledge and methods to solve this problem so that they practice those things in everyday life. Having these necessities, this research, supported by The Korea Energy Management Corporation(KEMCO), was performed for 8 months from April 17, 1994 to December 17, 1994. Many peoples participated in this study such as 30 staffs of researchers and authors, 5 staffs of photographers and illustrators, and 3 VCR program producers developing an energy education material set for middle school students that includes a printed material for student, a diskette for computer simulation, a teacher's guidebook, VCR material and its guidebook. The following main development direction was established : First, the material for student should be consisted of units that let students know the seriousness of energy problem. Second, the focus should be put on the necessary method and practice to economize energy actually in real life based on the basic knowledge learned in elementary school. Third, material for student should be consisted of modules to be student activity-oriented teaching-learning rather than lecture-oriented one. The activity, to maximize student's interests, should be presented in various forms such as experiments, investigation, play, data interpretation, computer simulation, visits, expression and appreciation, etc. To develop the energy education materials for middle school students, a research plan was made first. After literature review about domestic and foreign energy education materials, several research trips home and abroad, and discussion meetings, the basic theory of energy education such as the principle, objective, contents, teaching-learning method, and evaluation method was established. Material for student was developed through the following procedures : The activities in the existing energy education materials were analysed and were divided into four categories related to energy using places of home, school, community, and country, and which were again divided into three categories related to time of past, present, and future, Considering these division, nine modules which are structure units of material for student were chosen, Each module comprises 2-4 activities. Totally 31 activities were designed in this way. The syllabi were made out for each activity and writing was asked for to experts related to each activity after several discussions and revision. To complement the draft, another several discussions and revision were also made on it and then pictures and illustrations were asked for. All these procedures complete the material for student, titled ; Energy Inquiry of Middle School Students', which totals 129 pages and is all in color. As the manuscript of material for student was fixed, writing for teacher's guidebook was asked for to the same writers. The draft of teacher's guidebook was also complemented through the several concentrated works and discussions. Teacher's guidebook focused on the teaching-learning principle and methods of energy education and on the concrete instruction cases for effective instruction of material for student. It is organized with two parts : the one is 'general outline' which introduces theoretical contents and the other is 'details' which are practically helpful to teaching-learning. It is totally 131 pages including both 'general outline' and 'details'. The VCR material and its guidebook consist of contents that cultivate the good attitude trying to economize energy and raise student's interests with a purpose of strong motivation to recognize the necessity of economy and practice it. After establishing development direction of VCR material through discussion meetings and research trips, its script was made by relevant experts. Then the script was also reviewed two times. The drafted VCR material made by a video material developing expert was examined and modified by previews twice. After completion of VCR material, the VCR guidebook was made. All these procedures led to the development of VCR material which runs 20 minutes in VHS type. The VCR guidebook shows a production purpose of the program, structure of contents, evaluation methods, and contents of the program in detail to give help to instructors when they use this VCR material, When these energy education materials are used, it is desirable that the VCR material should be presented first to induce student's motive, and then material for student is introduced Since the material for student is composed of activity-oriented modules and each module is independent one another in general, and each activity is, too. the necessary module or activity can be chosen and utilized in any order according to school or class conditions. This energy education materials will contribute to the development of student's ability to solve energy problem in everyday life and teacher's ability to teach the fundamental knowledge and method in solving energy problem.

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FT 유전자 형질전환 스프레이 국화 (Dendranthema grandiflorum (Ramat.) Kitamura)의 조기개화성 (FT-transgenic spray-type Chrysanthemum (Dendranthema grandiflorum Kitamura) showing early-flowering)

  • 이수영;한봉희;허은주;신학기;이일하;이은경;김성태;김원희;권오현
    • Journal of Plant Biotechnology
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    • 제39권3호
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    • pp.140-145
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    • 2012
  • 고온에서 발현이 유도되도록 한 개화촉진유전자 HSpro-FT를 국립원예특작과학원에서 육성된 스프레이타입 국화 2품종('Pink PangPang'과 'Pink Pride')에 도입하여 획득한 형질전환체가 고온기에 화아가 분화하고 고온단일조건에서 화아가 발달하게 되는 조건에서 재배되었을 때 개화가 촉진되었다. HSpro-FT 유전자는 pCAMBIA2300에 삽입되어 Agrobacterium tumefaciens C58C1을 통하여 국화로 도입되었다. 아그로박테리움과의 접종 후 재분화 배지(MS + 1.0 mg/L BA + 0.5 mg/L IAA + 0.7% plant agar, pH 5.8)에 10 mg/L 과 20 mg/L kanamycin이 첨가된 1, 2차 선발배지에서 재분화된 신초를 선발하였다. PCR분석에 의해 'Pink PangPang'유래 재분화 신초 117개체와 'Pink Pride'유래 5개체로부터 FT 유전자가 도입되었음을 확인하였다. HSpro-FT 유전자 형질전환 26계통중 8계통들이 바형질전환체에 비하여 정식 후 꽃봉오리 맺히기까지의 기간이 1.7~10일 당겨졌고, 24계통들이 비형질전환체에 비하여 꽃봉오리 맺힌 후 꽃잎전개까지의 기간이 1~6일 당겨졌다. 두 품종 유래 형질전환 24계통 모두 조기개화성 이외의 꽃모양이나 꽃 색깔 등 다른 특성은 비형질전환체와 같았다.

한국장신구의 사치 금제 고찰 (A Study on Luxury Prohibition of Korean Personal Ornaments)

  • 추원교
    • 디자인학연구
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    • 제2권1호
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    • pp.43-62
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    • 1989
  • The luxury is the expression of human being's ornament instinct. In this study, in order to grasp the moulding system of the Korean's personal ornaments, the process of luxury prohibition was reviewed to search for to which direction the ornaments developed in the frame of the prohibited style connected closely to the character of the personal ornaments. The proiod was fixed from the old society to the late Chosun dynasty era. The beginning of the luxury in Korea seems to be the start of the luxury burial at the time of funeral in the age of Koguryo., In the era of Koguryo, 10th year of King Dongmyung (B. C. 28), in the era of Baekje, 27th year of King Koi(260), the prohibition of dress regulation and the style of dress were conducted. The prohibition of personal ornaments in Silla was started from King Bup:Heung, and in the 9th year of King Heung-Duk, the prohibition was conducted in order to correct the luxury of the nobles and set up the social discipline. In the 11 th of King Il-Sung-Ni-Sa-Kum, the use of gold, silver and jade was prohibited in the civilian circles. The prohibition of Silla was succeeded to Koryo era, and in the 7th year of King Kwangjong(956), the system of Baekgwan Gongbok(uniform for government officials) was set up, and the system of Sasek Gongbok(four color official uniform) was set up in the 11 th year of the same King, and the prohibition of the personal ornaments such as crown and band is considred to have been conducted. The prohibition of gold and silver was conducted in the first year of King Sungjong(982), and in the 4th year of King Chungryul(l260), the order of wearing the dress and hat in accordance with the Yusan dynasty and the Mongolian customs were widely circulated in the royal court and vivilian circles. The strong influence of Mongolia made the taste of the traditional personal ornaments laste. The personal ornaments were used for the nobles until the age of the Unified Sillar but even the common people could use them in case they were rich, and such a circumstances made the use of foreign goods inflated. The prohibition of Koryo era was aimed at the prohibition of the foreign goods of luxury, and the classification of the social status.In the age of Chosun Dynasty, the production of gold and silver was feeble indeed but the oute reason of the prohibition was to eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of thrift, and moreover, the gold, silver and jade were no the products of Korea and the prohibition was conducted but the true reason was afor the tribute tt China and the classification of status. The prohibition of Chosun dynasty was conducted first in the June of the 3rd year of King Taejo The major contents of prohibition was no use of gold, silver and jade, coral, agate, amber, etc. of th, wives of the Dang-Sang-Kwan (Court Nobleman) or their sons and daughters, and the same pheno menon was common even at the time of marriage. The people engaged in the secret trade there of wert beheaded. The personal ornaments in the prohibition were the pendent trinket, Binyo (crossbar) ceremonial ornamental hat, ring, earring, ornamental knife, hat string, hat ornament, belt, etc. Thl luxurious marriage expenses out of the luxury was severe, and lose of the marriageable age because 0 non-preparing the marriage goods was the national evil. The prohibition oC luxury was hard to bt kept to the nobles or rich people, the same as old days and present days. The prohibition of th{ luxury and personal ornaments of Korea had nothing to do with the commons, and it was limited tc the nobles and rich people. The prohibition was aimed to cultivating the custom of frugality by eradicating the luxurious atmosphere, but it was chiefly due to the tribute to the China and tht discrimination of the. status. We can say that the recent personal ornament was the flower of handi craft industry bloomed in the prohibition and regulation.

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멜론(Cucumis melo L.) 수확 후 관리기술 최근 연구 동향 (Current Status of the Research on the Postharvest Technology of Melon(Cucumis melo L.))

  • 오수환;배로나;이승구
    • 한국식품저장유통학회지
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    • 제18권4호
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    • pp.442-458
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    • 2011
  • 박과에 속하는 멜론은 다양한 형태, 과실 크기, 과피와 과육의 변이를 가진다. 또한, 멜론은 당도가 높고 향기와 과즙이 풍부하여 경제적으로도 중요한 작물이다. 멜론 종내에는 호흡과 에틸렌의 차이에 따라 호흡급등형(climacter)과 비호흡급등형(non-climacteric) 타입이 동시에 존재한다. 멜론은 에틸렌 발생량이 많은 과실이며 에틸렌은 성발현에 중요한 역할을 하며 다른 호르몬들도 상호 작용하여 과실이 성숙 시에 영향을 끼친다. 멜론은 성숙하면서 이러한 생리적 변화뿐만 아니라 당도, 경도, 향기, 색소 그리고 네트 발현과 같은 생화학적 변화가 나타난다. 이러한 변화들은 수확의 지표로 사용될 수 있으며 멜론의 수확적기 판정은 수분 후 일수가 가장 많이 이용된다. 수확 후 멜론은 $10^{\circ}C$로 품온을 낮추기 위한 예냉 작업을 한 후, 선별, 포장 과정을 거친다. 수확 후 고품질을 유지하기 위하여 열처리를 하여 효소 활성 및 미생물 번식을 억제시키며, 칼슘 처리를 하여 경도를 유지할 수 있다. 1-MCP를 처리하면 호흡과 에틸렌 발생을 억제시켜 저장성이 증가하였다. 멜론의 저장기간은 짧은 편이며 저온 저장 시 저온 장해를 쉽게 받으므로 $10^{\circ}C$ 정도가 가장 적절하다. 국내에서는 저온저장이 가장 보편적으로 이용되고 있으며 장기유통을 할 경우에는 CA저장으로 후숙과 노화를 지연시킨다. 신선편이 멜론의 가공은 살균제가 첨가된 세척수로 세척과 살균 과정을 거쳐 플라스틱 필름 포장을 하여 저온유통 한다. 최근 신선편이 멜론의 수요가 증가하고 있어 품질과 저장 기간을 늘리기 위한 연구가 필요하다.

조경용 철쭉재배품종의 형태적 특성 및 분류기준 (Morphological Characteristics and Classification Criteria for Azalea Cultivars for Landscaping in Korea)

  • 최재진;박석곤
    • 한국조경학회지
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    • 제42권2호
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    • pp.77-85
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    • 2014
  • 본 연구는 조경용으로 주로 이용되는 철쭉재배품종(이하 철쭉류)의 형태적 특성을 조사해 분류기준을 마련하고자 실시되었다. 공시재료로서 철쭉류 생산농가에서 대량 재배되는 주요 철쭉류를 수집하였다. 그 후에 국립종자원의 철쭉 신품종심사를 위한 특성조사요령에 준하여 철쭉류의 질적 양적 형질특성을 조사하여, 철쭉류의 재배품종 분류 및 분류기준을 마련하였다. 현재, 조경용 철쭉류는 재배품종명이 정립되어 있지 않았으므로 생산농가 등에서 사용하는 명칭대로 데이터를 정리하였다. 그 결과, 전남 순천지역에 조경용으로 주로 재배되는 철쭉류는 베니, 대왕, 쓰리, 자산홍, 한철, 산철쭉, 겹산철쭉, 백철쭉, 아까도, 석암 등 10개였다. 이 중에 베니, 대왕, 쓰리 품종은 생산농가에서 영산홍으로 통칭해 불리며, 잎과 꽃의 형태가 유사해 구분이 쉽지 않았다. 특히 베니의 화색은 '밝은 빨강'이었고, 대왕은 '선명한 자주', 쓰리는 '밝은 자주'로 조사되었다. 또한 자산홍과 한철은 그 형태가 비슷하였으나, 한철은 자산홍에 비해 꽃의 반점 발현정도와 잎 앞면의 광택이 강한 편이다. 산철쭉은 다른 철쭉류에 비해 4월 초에 꽃이 일찍 피었다. 겹산철쭉은 산철쭉의 기본종으로 모든 형질이 산철쭉과 유사하였으나, 꽃이 겹꽃으로 피었다. 백철쭉은 꽃이 흰색으로 피어 쉽게 구분되었지만, 잎이 아까도 품종과 비슷하여 두 재배품종의 구분이 쉽지 않았다. 아까도 품종은 다른 철쭉류에 비해 5월 초에 개화시기가 늦었고, 꽃의 직경이 백철쭉, 산철쭉과 함께 넓은 편이었다. 마지막으로 석암 품종은 잎 크기가 다른 재배품종에 비해 비교적 작아 쉽게 구분되었으며, 아까도 품종과 함께 늦게 개화하였다.

쇼핑몰 이미지 저작권보호를 위한 영상 워터마킹 (Image Watermarking for Copyright Protection of Images on Shopping Mall)

  • 배경율
    • 지능정보연구
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    • 제19권4호
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    • pp.147-157
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    • 2013
  • 디지털 환경의 도래와 언제 어디서나 접근할 수 있는 고속 네트워크의 도입으로 디지털 콘텐츠의 자유로운 유통과 이용이 가능해졌다. 이러한 환경은 역설적으로 다양한 저작권 침해를 불러 일으키고 있으며, 온라인 쇼핑몰에서 사용하는 상품 이미지의 도용이 빈번하게 발생하고 있다. 인터넷 쇼핑몰에 올라오는 상품 이미지와 관련해서는 저작물성에 대한 시비가 많이 일어나고 있다. 2001년 대법원 판결에 의하면 햄 광고를 위하여 촬영한 사진은 단순히 제품의 모습을 전달하는 사물의 복제에 불과할 뿐 창작적인 표현이 아니라고 적시하였다. 다만 촬영자의 손해액에 대해서는 인정함으로써 광고사진 촬영에 소요되는 통상적인 비용을 손해액으로 산정하게 하였다. 상품 사진 이외의 실내사진이라 하여도 '한정된 공간에서 촬영되어 누가 찍어도 동일한 사진'이 나올 수 밖에 없는 경우에는 창작성을 인정하지 않고 있다. 2003년 서울지방법원의 판례는 쇼핑몰에 사용된 사진에서 피사체의 선정, 구도의 설정, 빛의 방향과 양의 조절, 카메라 각도의 설정, 셔터의 속도, 셔터찬스의 포착 기타 촬영방법, 현상 및 인화 등의 과정에서 촬영자의 개성과 창조성이 인정되면 저작권법에 의하여 보호되는 저작물에 해당한다고 선고하여 손해를 인정하였다. 결국 쇼핑몰 이미지도 저작권법상의 보호를 받기 위해서는 단순한 제품의 상태를 전달하는 것이 아니라 촬영자의 개성과 창조성이 인정될 수 있는 노력이 필요하다는 것이며, 이에 따라 쇼핑몰 이미지를 제작하는 비용이 상승하고 저작권보호의 필요성은 더욱 높아지게 되었다. 온라인 쇼핑몰의 상품 이미지는 풍경사진이나 인물사진과 같은 일반 영상과 달리 매우 독특한 구성을 갖고 있으며, 따라서 일반 영상을 위한 이미지 워터마킹 기술로는 워터마킹 기술의 요구사항을 만족시킬 수 없다. 쇼핑몰에서 주로 사용되는 상품 이미지들은 배경이 흰색이거나 검은색, 또는 계조(gradient)색상으로 이루어져 있어서 워터마크를 삽입할 수 있는 공간으로 활용이 어렵고, 약간의 변화에도 민감하게 느껴지는 영역이다. 본 연구에서는 쇼핑몰에 사용되는 이미지의 특성을 분석하고 이에 적합한 이미지 워터마킹 기술을 제안하였다. 제안된 이미지 워터마킹 기술은 상품 이미지를 작은 블록으로 분할하고, 해당 블록에 대해서 DCT 양자화 처리를 함으로써 워터마크 정보를 삽입할 수 있도록 하였다. 균일한 DCT 계수 양자화 값의 처리는 시각적으로 영상에 블록화 현상을 불러오기 때문에 제안한 알고리즘에서는 블록의 경계 면에 붙어있는 영상 값에 대해서는 양자화 값의 분배를 작게 하고, 경계 면에서 멀리 떨어져있는 영상 값에 대해서는 양자화 값의 분배를 크게 함으로써 영상의 객관적 품질뿐 아니라 시각적으로 느끼는 주관적 품질도 향상 시켰다. 제안한 알고리즘에 의해서 워터마크가 삽입된 쇼핑몰 이미지의 PSNR(Peak Signal to Noise Ratio)은 40.7~48.5[dB]로 매우 우수한 품질을 보였으며, 일반 쇼핑몰 이미지에서 많이 사용되는 JPEG 압축은 QF가 70 이상인 경우에는 BER이 0이 나왔다.

한국 속화(俗畵)(민화(民畵))에 표현된 식물의 상징성에 관한 연구 (A Study on Plant Symbolism Expressed in Korean Sokwha (Folk Painting))

  • 길금선;김재식
    • 한국전통조경학회지
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    • 제29권2호
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    • pp.81-89
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    • 2011
  • 속화(俗畵 또는 민화(民畵)) 속의 도입요소를 대상으로 식물의 상징성을 추적한 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 우리 민족의 토속성 짙은 그림이자 상징적 의미를 담고 있는 '속화(俗畵)'라는 용어는 고려시대 이규보(1268~1241)의 '동국이상국집'에서 발견할 수 있고, 그리고 조선시대 초기 '속 동문선'과 강희맹(1424~1483)의 '사숙재집', 조선시대 후기의 '일성록(1786)', 유한준(1732~1811)의 '자저(自著)', 이규경(1788~?)의 '오주연문장전산고(五洲衍文長箋散稿)' 등에서 다양하게 추적할 수 있다. 특히, 이규경의 '오주연문장전산고' 인사편 서화(書畵)의 제병족속화변증설에 의하면 "민간에서 속화라고 불렀다"라는 기록이 발견된다. 2. 시대사적으로 한국의 속화는 농경문화의 자연관을 원초적으로 반영한 선사시대를 거쳐, 우주관을 반영하고 영혼불멸의 사상을 채색화 형태로 표현한 삼국시대, 추상적인 도형과 초자연적인 무늬를 공간 속에 상징화시켜 종교적으로 표현한 고려시대, 그리고 자연관, 심미적 가치, 상징성 등이 복합적으로 작용되어 대중화되고 한국 고유의 정체성으로 자리매김한 조선시대 등 시계열적 변화과정을 추적할 수 있다. 3. 한국의 속화 1,009점을 대상으로 분석한 소재는 식물요소 35종, 동물요소 37종, 자연요소 6종, 기타요소 5종등 총 83종이 출현하고 있다. 4. 속화에 표현된 식물 요소의 미학적 분석에 따른 형태미의 경우 모란도는 음양오행의 원초적 세계관을, 매화도는 역동적인 운치와 생태적인 조화원리를, 구도미의 경우 책가도는 복합 다시점 구도이면서도 강한 주목성을, 병화도는 역원근법에 의한 색의 강한 대비를, 독서여가도는 직선과 사선을 이용하여 자연과 인공요소의 질서정연한 균제미를 담백하게 표현하고 있다. 한편 색채미의 경우 오방색(동(東), 서(西), 남(南), 북(北), 중앙(中央)) 또는 오채색(적(赤), 청(靑), 황(黃), 백(白), 흑색(黑色))의 경우 주술적 또는 종교적으로 활용하거나 자연법칙과의 상관관계를 상징적으로 대입시키고 있다. 5. 한국 속화에 등장하는 각 요소들의 도입방식은 단순한 자연계 형태 모방을 뛰어 넘어 우주 내에 존재하는 본질의 의경을 통해 회화적 예술성을 바탕으로 자연관과 접목된 '상징성'으로 승화시켰다. 즉, 한국의 속화에서 추적할 수 있는 동 식물의 '상징성'은 종교적, 사상적, 생태적, 철학적 측면이 복합적으로 작용되어 자유 분망하면서도 독특한 표현으로 과학적 인식체계가 아닌 상징적 인식체계로, 현재 속에 과거와 미래가 공존하는 우리 민족의 집단적 문화 정체성으로 나타났다. 따라서 한국의 속화(또는 민화)는 우리 민족의 문화적 정체성이라 할 수 있으며, 우리 민족의 생활문화 속에 자연스럽게 배어든 자연관이자 토속성 짙은 의미경관요소로 해석할 수 있는 것이다. 그러나 우리 민족의 생활문화 속에 뿌리 깊게 배어 있었던 속화는 시대적 변천과정을 거쳐 그 의미와 감정이 현격히 퇴색되었다. 오늘날 주거생활이 아파트문화로 전이되고 가치관의 혼돈이 심화되는 시대적 상황 속에서 속화가 갖는 미학적, 상징적 가치는 정신적 풍요를 건전하게 지켜주는 상징 자산으로 전승되어 우리의 정체성으로 자리매김해야 하는 당위성을 갖는다고 하겠다.

조선왕조(朝鮮王朝) 왕릉(王陵) 문인석상(文人石像)의 복식형태(服飾形態)에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Costume Style of Civil Servants' Stone Images Erected at Tombs of the Kings for Yi-dynasty)

  • 권용옥
    • 복식
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    • 제4권
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    • pp.87-114
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    • 1981
  • A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

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