• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.531-539
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristic of men's costume in the Renaissance period. Fashion is a reflection of Zeitgeist. The ideal aesthetic values of each period create the concept of ideal beauty for that period. Costume represents the ideal beauty of a particular period. The aesthetic characteristic of men's costume in the age of Renaissance was analyzed in terms of four categories: the beauty of male body, sublime beauty, sensual beauty, and artistic beauty. First, for the beauty of male body, the men in the age of Renaissance enlarged their chests and shoulders by inserting a pad in them in order to express their masculine beauty of human body by emphasizing their sexual organ. Second, for the sublime beauty, men's costume was exaggerated by using a pad, a ruff collar and slash. In this period, men intended to represent their power and dignity through horizontal extension in their costume. Third, for the sensual beauty, erotic emphasis were made through physical elements. In order to show off sexual charms, men padded their costumes and introduced the codpiece. Last, for the artistic beauty in the age of the Renaissance, men's costume showed proportional, balanced and symmetrical beauty. And men's costume was made of rich brocades, which were embroidered and encrusted with jewels.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.60-73
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• 2006

This study analyzes the Baekche official costume system, including the dress, cap and belt systems, by relating documentary records with the results of excavations. The study shows that the system differed depending on the time. A system of dress based on official ranks was instituted during the region of King Goi in the third century. The rap amd belt systems were begun in the first half of sixth century The official costume system, as recorded in the Chinese history $Sus{\u{o}}$, included many subdivisions of cap colors, which followed belt colors. According to $Gudangs{\u{o}}$, dress and cap systems changed in the seventh century. The official costume consisted of a $jacket(j{\u{o}}gori)$, trousers(baji), and coat(po). The coat had wide sleeves and reached below knees. Its collar had straight neckline. Officials of all rank wore silk caps and belts of matching colors. Officials above sixth rank used silver flower decorations on their caps. Officials wore wide-crouch trousers and generally adjusted the hems of the trousers, but this practice stopped in the sixth century. Officials wore shoes or boots depending on occasion. From a historical viewpoint, Baekche is important for having been the first Korean kingdom to establish a government organization. The salient feature of the system of organization established in A.D. 260(the twenty-seventh year of the region of King Goi) was the application of different colors to identify different ranks.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.63-78
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to compare the style of clothing by type of the Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe based on the examination of the literature centered on the historical relationship between Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe. The research results are as follows. First, it was found that both the apparels of Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe had hemp cloth with the V-neckline with the blocked front part and hemp cloth with the open front that is worn by overlapping the straight collars of the upper garment. Both men and women wore the garment of the straight line collar that is worn by folding towards the left or right, or upper garment of the round shaped collar. Women wore an upper garment with short sleeves on top of the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes while men wore pants for the lower garment, and women wore skirt and apron with triangular cloth decoration on top of the skirt. Second, Goguryeo Anak Tomb No. 3 mural painting(year 357) shows that apparel worn by the lady who is the wife of the owner of the tomb is similar to the apparel worn by the lady in the lacquer painting for folding screen of the Sima Jinlong Tomb ancient painting on the woman of chaste reputation in terms of the form and structure.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.124-140
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• 2023

This study analyzes traditional women's Hu costumes of the Tang dynasty, and deploys a creative fashion design to converge contemporary and traditional styles. In this costume, women wear a robe with striped or plain patterns in the lower part of the pants, and it appears frequently in red and yellow colors. Depending on the sleeve, it is either a round collar or a turn down collar robe. In the Hu hat, the huntuomao and juanyanxumao were leather and mili and weimao were used to prevent the sand from flowing. This study uses the CLO 3D program with the "moment" theme based on the Hu costume for women to deploy 4 pairs of fashion design and to produce works for 2 pairs. The 3D virtual clothing program demonstrates important effects in design deployment and pattern arrangement through its efficiency and convenience of clothing production. The CLO 3D program was closely combined with the 2D design and the 3D affect, and it heightened the efficiency in saving the processing time and energy of the sample clothes. Through facilitating the 3D digital fashion design, the production may reduce time needed and contribute to an effective economy, and it may compare digital fashion design to actual products as well as illustrate the potential of digital fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.123-137
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is contemplating and substantiating Korean Empire's court costume through relics and photos. Additionally, the meaning of the pattern of Mugunghwa as the national symbol in the court costume is considered. The results of this study are following. First, a phased introduction of western-style court costume was executed through Ulmi Reformation in 1895 and Court Costume Rule in 1900. U1mi Reformation was characterized by transitional reformation because newly introduced system and traditional costume consolidated in costume. Under Court Costume Rule, however, by accepting western-style on contemporary costume, modernized style was settled in every respect of form and matter. The court costume comprised bicorn, coat, vest, pantaloon, sword, sword belt, white collar and white gloves at audience with the Emperor. Second, by examination of the relics of Chigimgwan and Juimgwan, it was confirmed that the court costume was manufactured in foreign countries such as France and Russia on the basis of order. It was also identified by pictures that court costume was worn by diplomats dispatched. Third, the pattern of Mugunghwa in court costume was featured by embroidery of 6 petal pattern. And the pattern of Mugunghwa, as national symbol, has important meaning in view of history and national affection, while Japanese and European adopted the crest of the royal household. In summary, Korean Empire proclaimed modernized court costume institution to handle international relationship driven by West. It was uneasy reformation in adopting western court costume imported from overseas because its textile and style were completely different from traditional costume. However, the willingness of Korean Empire should be reevaluated in the history of Korean costume, in that Korean Empire established court costume proclaimed its sovereignty domestically and overseas, and that the pattern chosen as national symbol was that of Mugunghwa which is current national flower.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.118-133
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• 2012

A historical research on the costume of memorial service officials during the period of late 18th century, King Jeongjo period, is performed for an accurate reconstruction of the memorial service for King Danjong, which is a part of King Danjong Cultural Festival held at Yeongwol. This paper summarizes the results of the research as follows: 1. Jangneung memorial service is held only on Hansik day and the procedure follows the rule based on Gukjooryeui(國朝五禮儀). The service was first held in 1791 for King Danjong and his royal followers. 2. The rule based on Chunkwantonggo(春官通考), defines the king's tomb memorial services and attendees. King Danjong's memorial service follows the rule regarding its attendees and the attendees include high-ranking local government officials, local confucian scholars, and service men. 3. The costume of attendees for the King Danjong's memorial service is as follows: 1)Dangsangkwan(堂上官) and Danghakwan(堂下官) wear Sangbok(常服), which consisted of Samo(紗帽), Heukdanllyeong(黑團領), Pumdae(品帶), and black boots(黑靴). 2)Local confucian scholars wear their uniform consisting of Yukeon(儒巾), Dopo(道袍), Sejodae, and black boots. 3)Service men wear their uniform consisting of Jeonjakeon(典字巾), red-robe with rounded collar called Hongui(紅衣), Kwangdaw hoe(廣多繪), and Uuhae(雲鞋).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.139-148
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• 1998

In order to know what sorts of features of neck form may be required to make plans for tight collars, the neck form of young japanese women were measured three demension-ally using GRASP(Grating Projection System for Profiling) and plaster torso. By the BASIC language in NEC computer and EXCEL program in MACINTOSHI computer, it became possible to draft a number of neck surface auomatically, therefore, we got analysis of a mass of subjects. Thed following results were obtained: 1. There was a large individual difference in the shape of neck, in particular, on the front and side curves of the neck base line, where the undulation of clavicular part of neck and inclination of shoulder are refracted. 2. When designing a stand collar, from the viewpoint of clothing strcture, it is important to grasp exactly the shapes of the neck, such as the line of the neck base, the neck gradient, back neck length, back neck width & girth. 3. According to the somatotypes(turing-over, standard, bending type), there were different the method of the basic collar pattern making.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.55-79
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• 2000

This study is the design research for the practical use of Casual Hanbok. The conclusion of basic research for Casual Hanbok design reads as follows. Today's college women are fairly positive to the practical use of Casual Hanbok. Especially, they are strongly interested in the new design and have the active intention to wear it on actually. The concrete design of every parts of Casual Hanbok which is wanted by college women is as follows. Firstly, college women like well matched two-piece dress style in colors. And they want to decide the coloration independently than to follow the traditional coloration passively. Secondly, according to the design of jacket, sometimes they like the presence of a collar, a collar strip, a gore etc. and at other times they like absence of them. Thirdly, the side line of jacket they like and the seam line of sleeve they like is smoothly curved one and the adjusting means they like is a fancy button. Fourthly, the length of jacket they like reaches to their waist and the width of an armhole they like must be convenient for moving of arm. Fifthly, one out of two college women likes mixed spinning fabrics as material for jacket, skirt, pants. In the other hand, one out of five college women likes cotton. Sixthly, the skirt style they like is A ­line one having from two to four gathers on the waist and the length of skirt they like reaches to their ankle or calf of the leg. Seventhly, the pants style they like is the western style but the hem line of pants is the korean traditional pants style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.109-122
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• 2002

This study is to understand cotton Tyeollik construction of the middle Chosun Period through the reconstruction of tyeoilik which was excavated from lady kim's tomb (from sooncheon). The form of excavated Tyeollik classified into two types by the location of waistline. The structure of excavated tyeollik classified into three types by the construction(one-layer, two-layer, cotton/quilt) The form type change according to the period. The change of the form type has the close relation structure type in the tyeollik. Cotton-tyeollik belongs to the form of the front time. The construction of cotton tyeollik is similar with the one-layer Tyeollik Exception the construction of git(collar) and the size and direction of the fold. The surface pattern is composed of two-pieces but the liner is one-piece in the Git(collar). and In The size of fold surface is o.2-o.3cm, and liner is 0.5-0.8cm. The direction of fold in the liner is the contrast with the surface.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.886-896
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• 2009

Acjurumpo is one of the most representatives daily outfit of Joseon Dynasty is a clothes which has a characteristic of having creases under the armhole and it has a lot of chance to use on modern clothes design. This study wants to provide a information on traditional clothes to the public and modernize traditional clothes by designing modern women clothes by adapting Acjurumpo, one of Joseon Dynasty's men' daily outfit which is not very well-known to publics as a link of traditional clothes modernization. Acjurumpo's characteristic is usually having a knife-shape collar and having two sup and one sup, but outside sup of having two sup was more common. There were tongsu, duri, as a example of shape of sleeve. For Mu the combinations were different from Acjurum starting with a shape of trapezoid, triangle to big Mu on a body of side line. For Gorum there were two pairs of long and short Gorum, two pairs of short Gorum or one pair of short or long Gorum. Slit of po was on both side or back. Acjurumpo which was adapted on modern clothes, it was usually used on Hanbok companies that used traditional shape or similar shape to design children' clothes. This study designed three summer one-piece and two winter jacket for women clothes adapting Acjurumpo. And it was designed by using modern material adapting Acjurumpo's characteristics, changing knife-shape collar, Acjurum, mu and Gorum. This study expects for popularization of many traditional clothes developed by modern design in future.