• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.145-157
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to suggest new designs and patterns for men's coat by deconstructing and restructuring 18th and 19th century men's coat. In the postmodern society, the reinterpretation of the past fashion trends or items through extensive historical investigation has been frequently used as new design motifs and the new source of creative fashion design. Especially in the contemporary society, as multifarious forms and presentations are emphasized even in the men's fashion, it is urgently required more than ever to do thorough and extensive research for the design and structure of men's fashion. Therefore, through historical research on men's fashion, the 18th and 19th century men's coat, which is generally considered to be the most developed one in the concept and shape of 'coat,' has been reinterpreted and deconstructed to make new design for men's coat which corresponds to the trends and sensibility of contemporary fashion. In addition to this, to facilitate practical use of this new design by fashion public, the plane patterns for the actual production of these coat designs were presented.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.339-353
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• 2004

Purposes of this study were to analyzed coat types and characteristics of coat of young persons, and search whether fashion trend is reflected on coat. Data collected pictures that they are wearing dress in street of Daejeon city 3 places that there are much the rising generations at November, 1999. This study target was from teens latter half to 20 opening part, 154 women. Data analyzed content analysis, frequency analysis, crossing and the result is as following. First, classification standard of coat was textile fabric, form of detail and ornament. Second, coat could classify in three types, type 1 was traditional duffle coat style that is distinguished by form of detail and ornament(hood and button). Type 2 was classified property of textile fabric that used leather, padding, fur etc., and type 3 was classified by collar detail of woolen fabric coat. Specially, ornamental fur of woolen coat perceived visually strong. And design detail of coat showed significant difference in coat type. That is, duffle coat type was designed patch pocket and toggle, woolen fabric coat type was hidden button and seam pocket. Third, fashion tendency of coat was proved that is reflecting part of predicted fashion trend.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.157-167
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• 2015

This study was initiated to understand design and detail characteristics of coats that targeted new senior women by analyzing shape, color, fabric and detail. For the new senior, youthful appearance has more appeal than products that represent elder's style. Among, the coat can be effectively utilized as a trendy fashion item that targets seniors since it is more useful to hide figures than pants, blouses or jackets. The objectives of this research were to: First, examine design characteristics of new senior women's coat. Second, understand design characteristics of new senior women's coat. Third, analyze the relationship between the design of collars and details according to type of new senior women's coat. Photographs collected were categorized according to type of coat. Three types of coat (balmacaan, redingote and trench) were chosen to analyze with the highest frequency. The results of analyzing shape, length, color and fabric of the products made in domestic and foreign brands were similar; however, the collar and way of fastening showed significant results that required specific analysis since the design elements were related to maincoat characteristics in protecting against the cold. The depth of the V-zone can change without change of collar width and design changes in V-zone that influence the coat image that lead to changes in sleeve type and length (or fastening and closing position) method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.49-66
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• 2007

Trench coat derived from military uniforms was one of the classical fashion items and has been endeared as everyday outfits thanks to useful traits. Since 1990s classical design of trench coat began to be modified and many variant styles were appeared after 2000s. Trench coat designs after 2000s were appeared as tradition type that was stick to basic British classic style, variation type that was changed in details, colors, materials, and silhouettes, evolution type that was changed into new items, deconstruction type that was dissolved and open-structured. Modern trench coat expressed modern chic, elegance feminine, stylish casual, military and gangster images. The characteristics of trench coat as classic fashion were utility for everyday life style, excellent ability to express images, and strong visual effects of characteristic details. Trench coat was timeless as classic fashion, at the same time, changed into new fashion styles suitable for the sense of the times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.8
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• pp.814-827
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• 2012

This study analyzed the presentation trend of a checklist method for trench coat designs. Through this analysis, this study examined the flow of trench coat designs and presents future design directions. Research was conducted in the following method. A total of 1,307 female trench coat photos were selected from the photos presented in the top 4 collections from 2006 to 2011. These photos were used for analysis and frequency analysis was conducted. Among the checklist methods presented in trench coats, the modification type was most common, followed by the elimination type, conversion type, combination type, minimization type, addition type, and magnification type, respectively. Checklist methods were continuously presented even while increasing and decreasing according to the year and season. This showed that it was highly possible for checklist methods to be continuously applied in future trench coat designs. Generally, a high frequency of appearance was shown in 2010 and during the F/W season. According to the development direction of future trench coat designs applied with the checklist method, it is predicted that the modification type and the elimination type (which have generally displayed high appearance frequency) will be continuously magnified in the future. In particular, it is expected modifications in structural details (which have showed an upward trend in 2011) will be further magnified.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.121-133
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• 2017

This study investigates the design relation between shoulder line and sleeve line for designing bulky silhouettes as well as examines the trend sensitivity and design difference of each city through a comparison of the four cities collection (Paris, Milan, London, and New York). The results are as follows. In the four major fashion capitals, the rates of all-season coats were higher in 2014/15 F/W than those in the 2013/14 F/W season. At the 2014/15 F/W season, the proportion of the bulky silhouette coat, (including the fur and cape coat) increased and confirmed the bulky silhouette fashion trend. Second, an examining of the proportion of bulky silhouette coats manufactured by leading brands in major cities, indicated that London brands readily followed the trend of bulky silhouette coats when compared to other cities. This trend was also accepted by most brands in New York. Most brands in London and New York are highly compliant with the latest fashion trends. Third, the drop shoulder design was mostly presented in the shoulder pit of the bulky coat. In case of the sleeve, the shape of the jar was kept wide at the elbow line and made narrower toward the beak in most bulky silhouette coats. The importance of shoulder and sleeve design is clearly highlighted in the bulky silhouette coat. Fourth, detail design trends were different according to type of sleeve and shoulder fit. The results show the relationship between shoulder and sleeve design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.161-172
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• 2015

In this study, characteristics of modern fur fashion were reviewed and aesthetic characteristics shown in fur fashion were analyzed. The results of this study are as follow. Aesthetic characteristics shown in fur fashion between 1980s and 2000s are conspicuousness, sensuality, elegance, activity, humor and abnormality. Conspicuousness was displayed in oversized fur coat in vivid leopard pattern, mink coat trimmed with rich fox fur or leopard patterned fur jacket in hot pink. Sensuality was displayed in white and gray soft mink coat worn over mini dress, soft mink jacket which is short enough to expose legs or soft fox best accentuating chest and arms. Elegance was displayed in soft fox coat in silver, luxurious mink coat with slim silhouette that flows with body line or silver bolero made of mink and silk with slim silhouette. Activity was presented in mink pullover with loose silhouette or rabbit jacket that emphasized functionality by having zippers or hem made of rubber. Humor was presented in unique and humorous patterned fur jacket or exaggerated and unique form of fox bolero. Abnormality was presented in mink jacket made of combining alien material with deformed proportion and form or outer that emphasized vague form by using long and big fox fur.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.97-116
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to analyze the trench coat designs shown in the latest collection by using a checklist method among many fashion design idea methods and then investigate the trend of trench coat design in multilateral directions. As for the research method, 1,307 photos selected from the photos of women's trench coats publicized from 2006 until 2011 were used for the analysis and then a frequency analysis was conducted. As a result, the types of checklist methods shown in trench coats included modification type, elimination type, conversion type, combination type, minimization type, addition type, and magnification type. In the modification type, the modification of color to the back side stood out; in the elimination type, the design eliminating epaulet stood out ; in the conversion type, conversion to jacket among many items stood out. In the combination type, the combination between different material texture and identical colors among colors stood out ; in the minimization type, the design minimizing sleeves stood out; in the addition type, the addition of sleeves among many details stood out ; in the magnification type, the design magnifying panels stood out.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.6
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• pp.17-31
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to perform historical reconstruction of the court dress coat in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the artifacts. Following steps were undertaken in the study : literature research of the laws of the era, drawing of the design, embroidering gold work, and tailoring of the coat. Embroidering and tailoring experts were consulted to complete an accurate reconstruction of the dress court. The results of this study are as follows. First, Juimgwan's coat, which was the Court Costume Rule in 1905 was selected as an experimental coat. It was revision of the Court Costume Rule in 1900. The process of selection was based on the amount and easiness of embroidery. Second, the design of the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar is reflected the pattern of the preceding research, which was analyzed from the laws, the drawing document[Gwanbokjandoan], and artifacts. Third, the gold work embroidery in the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar was done. The embroidery material were composed of gold threads, such as rough purl, smooth purl, check purl, pearl purl, rococo, and spangle. Couching was used as an embroidery method. The coat was tailored after embroidering. The coat and the buttons were made after analyzing the artifacts. The result of this study can be utilized in the field of historical reconstruction of artifacts in the museum, the designing of stage costume in the performances of reenactment events, drama, and movie of Daehan Empire. Furthermore, this study is anticipated to contribute to the fundamental research of culture contents.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.28-41
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• 1986

In the history of costume, coat can be traced up to ancient Persia but it was generalized as today's style around 14th an d15th century in Euro[pe. World wars, revolutions and rapid social changes of the last 80 years have produced more changes in the way people dress than any comparable period in history. Thewse changes enabled emergence of more modernized woman's garments and through it, dress and coat ensemble became public's main fashion. In 1920's after world war I, boyish style in woman's garment was in vogue. Woman's coat was also in the same style with length sortened up to the knee level and silhoutte was straighter and semi-fitted than previous period. Length of the coat was longer in late 1930's but shortened again in 1940's. And the most popular silhouette of both 30's and 40's was shape of the hourglass which was commonly called the "X-shape". Also double=breasted coat with fitted waistline, belt and flare skirt was in vogue. In 1950's and 60's, with the variety of lines in woman's garments, silhouette of the coat also appeared in many different forms. Along with the various shapes, color of the coat changed throughout the decades : dark colors in 20's, bright colors in 30's, mixed colors of 20's and 30's in 40's and in 50's, color had changed to archromatic. In fabric, wool was most popular in all periods. However, such gabrics as tweed, cotton, gaberdine, linen were added to give variety. It is very interesting to see collars trimmed with expensive furs were very popular in 20's and 30's but it almost disappeared in 40's and fur trimming reappeared in late 50's. In addtion to silhouette changes in design, details such as buttons, epaulettes, pockets and fur trimming of hemline were emphasizing points of varieties in design. This study has set time limits world war I which was the period coat became major fashion of woman's clothing, to 1960's.