• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.204-221
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• 2020

East Asian countries share a culture of perfuming clothes. The prosperity of the Maritime Silk Road and the incense trade are direct factors that have led to the development of incense culture. Perfuming clothes is a method of applying fragrance by burning incense. The Chinese could make an incense mixture with various types of incense, and records demonstrating use of perfuming clothes tools (熏籠) show that they might have perfumed clothes with incense mixtures. During the Tang dynasty, the incense trade thrived. Examples of ancient literature such as 『千金要方』, 『香譜』, 『香乘』 describe how to make incense for perfuming clothes and how to perfume clothes. 『桂海虞衡志』 and 『諸蕃志』 shows trade partners and goods. Incense was introduced to Korea alongside Buddhist culture. 『買新羅物解』 shows Silla traded incense with Japan. One of the trade goods recorded in 『買新羅物解』 is perfuming cloth incense (熏衣香), which establishes that Silla performed perfuming clothes at that time. During the Goryeo dynasty, Goryeo exported musk as well as ginseng. The royal family burned incense from the Song royal family. Noblewomen preferred sachets. The use of this dress continued into the Joseon dynasty. 『買新羅物解』 showed that Japan imported incense from Silla. 『The tale of Genji』 illustrates Heian nobles' incense culture, perfuming clothes culture, and trade of incense. Perfuming clothes tools became essential articles for marriage purposes and it developed in a practical shape. The Champa had a perfuming clothes culture. It is described on 『諸蕃志』. As Agilawood is found in Tongking, and Tongking was neighbor to the Champa and China, they might have had a perfuming clothes culture as well. Korea, China, Japan, and Vietnam shared a perfuming clothes culture. We can identify universality and commonality in the purpose of perfuming clothes, time of development, the method of making the incense mixture for perfuming clothes, the method of perfuming clothes, the tools, the gender of perfumer, and the type of herbs and spices.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.468-478
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to examine the differences in appearance management behaviors and demographic variables among groups classified by the appearance management motives. The questionaries are administerd to 493 female and male adults above 20 years old in Seoul, Kyeonggi-do, Daegu and Kyungpook regions. For analysis of data from 478 respondents, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, cluster analysis, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$, ANOVA, Duncan test and ${\chi}^2$ test were applied. We show the following results: First, factor analysis for appearance management motives extracted three factors such as self-development, emphasis on the trendy appearance, and sexual appealing motive. Factor analysis for appearance management behaviors extracted four factors such as weight training, surgery/skin care, hair care and clothing selection. Second, three groups of the appearance management motives were classified into such as the social self-management type, the sexual appealing self-management type, the passive appearance management type. The social self-management groups are more interested in self-development, emphasis on the trendy appearance, and sexual appealing motive. And they are also more involved in appearance management behaviors: clothing selection is the most pursuing appearance management behavior. Third, among the demographic variables, the single and female in 20s and 30s with higher level of education belonged to the social self-management group. In this contribution, we find significant differences in the appearance management behavior and demographic variables classified by the appearance management motives.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.1-18
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to investigate Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel in respect to her fashion business. Chanel always considered the work of a fashion designer 'a technique, a craft, a trade' and chastised couturiers who looked upon themselves as artists. She was the first to cater to the public in its broader sense and to produce standard which appealed to every taste, the first to democratize the art of dressmaking for purely economic reasons. The results were as follows; 1. Chanel personified ~his new spirit of independence and evolved a style of dress for the modern, liberated woman. 2. Chanel excelled at fabrics, their interpretation, and an ability to use them. She had taken a humble material, one that was used by men and that they had shunned, and turned it into a fashionable fabric. In the process she also accelerated the growth of the ready-to-wear industry for it was a fabric within the financial reach of the majority of woman who wanted to dress fashionably but were not well off. 3. Chanel thought black chic and would never go out of fashion. As American Vogue for 1 October 1926 prognosticated, her little black dress became a kind of uniform. 4. Chanel represented an exception among couturiers because she was flattered that her styles were so popular and widely copied. She believed that her style would be affirmed by high-street copies-after all, copying is the sincerest form of flattery. 5. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewellery. It was not an original idea of Chanel's. Whereas Poiret had pioneered the original idea of costume jewellery, it was Chanel's avant-garde way with it not to mention her usual deceptive simplicity and supreme artistry that made costume jewellery evolve a successful and lucrative part of the fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.7
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• pp.958-969
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• 2002

No one doubts that textile and apparel industries have contributed to economic miracles of the export-led growth in Korea. However, by the turning of 1990′s, these sectors have encountered many problems such as decreasing of domestic production and exports mainly due to wage rise and shortage. Therefore, foreign direct investment to the low labor cost countries has been enlarged for a way of improving its competitiveness and increasing exports. However, no intensive study has been made exploring current investments and future directions. This study focuses Vietnam as one of the promising overseas investment countries. The purposes of this study are to analyze current investment status of Korean textiles and apparel firms in Vietnam, to explore merits and problems Vietnam has, and to present useful implications and strategies for Korean textiles and apparel companies. Analysis of current secondary data suggests that Korean apparel industry, rather than textiles industry, have invested more in Vietnam, mostly in southern Ho Chi Minh City. Investments of Korean apparel and textile firms have shown steady increase from 1990 but have turned to a decrease from 1995. Findings suggested that Vietnam has merits for attracting foreign investment since it provides relatively cheap labor and outstanding skillful hands suitable for apparel and textiles industries. In addition, because of EU quota increase and the trade agreement between Vietnam and USA it is likely for firms in Vietnam to increase exports to EU and USA Rapid expansion of domestic apparel market and "Korean trend (Han Rue)" in Vietnam resulted from successful star marketing of Korean firms are another merits Vietnam has to the Korean fm. However, regulations of central government, low efficiency of bureaucratic and stiff administrative process, difficulty of making decision in case of joint venture, lack of social overhead capital, high factory construction costs, weak construction condition, and the excessive competition among investment enterprises have found to be problems. Based on pros and cons of investment to Vietnam, marketing strategies, practical implications and future directions were suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.5
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• pp.779-803
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• 2023

The growth of digital news media and the stock price index has resulted in economic fluctuations in the fashion industry. This study examines the impact of fashion industry news and macroeconomic changes on the Textile & Wearing Apparel KOSPI over the past five years. An auto-regressive integrated moving average exogenous time series model was conducted using the fashion industry stock market index, the news topic index, and macro-economic indicators. The results indicated the topics of "Cosmetic business expansion" and "Digital innovation" impacted the Textile & Wearing Apparel KOSPI after one week, and the topics of "Pop-up store," "Entry into the Chinese fashion market," and "Fashion week and trade show" affected it after two weeks. Moreover, the topics of "Cosmetic business expansion" and "Entry into the Chinese fashion market" were statistically significant in the macroeconomic environment. Regarding the effect relation of Textile & Wearing Apparel KOSPI, "Cosmetic business expansion," "Entry into the Chinese fashion market," and consumer price fluctuation showed negative effects, while the private consumption change rate, producer price fluctuation, and unemployment change rate had positive effects. This study analyzes the impact of media framing on fashion industry business cycles and provides practical insights into managing stock market risk for fashion companies.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.59-76
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• 2023

The COVID-19 pandemic has brought about environmental severity and new social, economic, and cultural changes. Conscious fashion, which is oriented to sustainable and valuable consumption, has become a trend to consume products produced using eco-friendly and ethical processes, from the selection of the product materials to the manufacturing process. The purpose of this study is to identify the concepts and characteristics of conscious fashion and zero waste, and to explore design trends of zero wastein the new normal era of conscious fashion through the analysis of various cases. The research method is a literature review on conscious fashion based on relevant professional and academic books and articles, designer collections, and campaigns from 2010 to the present, when conscious fashion as eco-friendliness and sustainable fashion became a trend. The concept and characteristics of conscious fashion were examined them in terms of environmental, ethical, social, and cultural aspects and the concept and characteristics of zero waste through previous studies and case analysis. Through this, the trends of zero-waste design in conscious fashion were categorized into: first, an eco-friendly design orientation that utilizes reuse and reduce methods of clothing and fabric; second, a variable design orientation that practices zero waste designs by using diversity of patterns through deconstruction, disassembly, and various cutting methods. Third, long-term circulation of design through the recycling of resources by second-hand trade, the utilization of stock clothing, resale, and availability of eco-friendly materials through the development of new technologies. As an active practice for the sustainable fashion industry expands, it is expected that continuous research will be conducted as a future core value to realize the possibility of long-term circular zero-waste design through social responsibility and conscious recycling, reuse, and reproduction.

• Korea Trade Review
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.63-107
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• 2016

This paper analyzed the restrictiveness of the rules of origin of the 15 FTAs of Korea utilizing the restrictiveness index suggested by Estevadeordal(2000). The main purpose of the paper is to provide an update of the current status and characteristics of the restrictiveness of the rules of origin based on product type and country. The research showed that FTA with EU and Turkey showed the highest restrictiveness, whereas New Zealand, Peru and India showed the lowest. Overall, Korea's restrictiveness index was found to be at appropriate levels. Additionally, in terms of the current status by restrictiveness index, over time with the exception of European countries in the FTA, products with the lowest score in restrictiveness index of 2 continued to be processed in the Korea-Peru FTA which illustrated the current trend of easing restrictiveness. In terms of restrictiveness index based on product type, commodity products, processed food, clothing-fabric-general merchandise were found to be very strict. However, in categories such as general machinery, electronics, chemical products and precision instruments, the restrictiveness index showed the lowest readings. The results imply the high restrictiveness in sensitive products that are vulnerable from competition through high tariffs, and easing of restrictiveness in competitive products in order to vitalize trade. The results also show that in Korea's FTA, Korea's rules of origin in FTA vary and are sorted in a complicated manner. With an increasing number of FTAs and a number of different rules of origin, there is a need for standardized criteria for Korea. This study was significant in that it compiled all the rules of origin and the restrictiveness index of all FTAs that came into effect and have been negotiated in Korea. The results of the research are expected to be used as an informative and meaningful guideline for Korea's FTAs.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.83-95
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• 2012

This study aims to develop the 21st century eco design-based fashion products by examining Taller Flora products and presenting eco design approaches. Eco design terms were examined based on literature, and Taller Flora products were explored based on literature and websites. The following research issues were discussed. First, eco design terms are totally handled, thus defining the eco design. Second, eco design-oriented Taller Flora products are examined to explore design approaches. Eco design aims to conserve and heal the global environment with focus on a greater understanding of and interest in nature. As such, eco design is based on a new modern concept of aestheticism that seeks to minimize environmental damage caused by the three processes of production and distribution use and disposal, to take social and moral responsibilities for such activities, and to avoid hurting the environment. Taller Flora brands seek to produce products by keeping close ties with indigenous communities in various nations, and by emphasizing and embracing indigenous people's craftsmanship spirit and creativity Indigenous people use eco-friendly materials and produce products with craftsmanship spirit, and their cooperation by linking different cooperative networks is a good model for strengthening fair trade networks. These addresses the problem of expanding design work through traditional crafting. Therefore, the features of Taller Flora brands presented a new method to approach the eco fashion. The research findings are expected to help develop the eco design of fashion products.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.135-148
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• 2009

The purpose of this research is to examine changes in Japanese fashion design through analysis of the background and characteristics of 'Japanesque Modern'. With the advent of globalization and pressures to enhance international competitiveness, key players in both Japanese government and industry feel an urgent need to establish a distinctive brand for its products. 'Japanesque Modern' was launched in January 2006 as a nationwide campaign through the support of the Japanese Ministry of International Trade and Industry (MITI). 'Japanesque Modern' strives to be a national movement, enhancing Japan's brand image while promoting continuous industrial innovation. 'Japanesque Modern' unites Japanese culture, design, and aesthetics with advanced technology, bringing traditional concepts to enrich contemporary life styles. In order to exemplify the 'Japanesque Modern' ideal, existing market products and content that reflect the concept were selected for the 'Japanesque Modern Collection' by the Japanesque Modern Council. In making these selections, the Council emphasized criteria based on three Japanese spiritual values: Craftsmanship; Manner; and Hospitality. As a result, three designs concepts have emerged in the 'Japanesque Modern Collection': the 'convergent method'; the 'conversion method'; and the 'emphasis method'. This research will explore these design concepts and their relationship to 'Japanesque Modern'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.41-54
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to trace the development of cotton Early Chosun Period by examining the historical literary sources : such as production of cotton various uses of cotton trade with other countries The developement process of cotton fabrics during this period can be divided into three stages. The first stage which can be discribed as a settling period lasted 27 years from A.D. 1392 to 1418. In this stage cotton fabrics were just about to be used as fabrics for popular clothing. The second stage which can be discribed as a developmental period lasted 50 years from A. D.1418 to 1468. In this stage cotton fabrics were mainly produced in the southern parts of the country which are Kyungasng-Do, Choongcheng-Do and Jeunla-Do. And cotton fabrics were used not only by the common people but also by the royal family. The third stage, that is the last one was an extensive period and lasted from A.D.1469 to 1592. In this stage as the demand for cotton fabrics greatly increased the production from southern parts of the country fell in short of the supply needed. Therefore the production was extended to the northwestern parts. In addition cotton fabrics finally came to be used as money to value the goods.