• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.20-30
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to examine the influence of European middle class, ethos to costume. This study is concerned with historic situation about enlightment and French revolution, and the change process of costume before and after the French Revolution. In order to investigate the relationship, this studies include the phenomenon of costume in the basis of thoughts of the age (enlightment), political event (French revolution) and social system (middle classes). The Influence of enlightment to costume of man and children were which emphasized practical aspect. Children costume was developed independently from costume of adult before French revolution. French revolution played a roll in silhouette, color, texture of costume for man. Especially pantalons which names Sans-culotte generalized as modern clothing for man. Women freed from corset because of the influence of neo-classicism for a while. However, costume of woman did not change much because women were excluded from of enlightment.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권8호
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• pp.1142-1152
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to verify the visual perception on various cotton fabrics of the same color. Results obtained through subjective evaluation of cotton fabrics showed that the textural adjectives could be classified into 3; warm/cool, flexibility and surface property, the sensibility adjectives into 5; simple, attractive, masculine, conservative, comfortable and visual perception adjectives into 6; hard, warm, smooth, brilliant, classic and casual. Image distribution results on 12 different fabrics, showed different distributions among textiles on visual perception due to varying texture and sensibility. In thickness, weight, weave type, bending and surface characteristics which are structure characteristics, significant differences were shown for visual perception examination. Having placed into an image scale, visual perception dimension developed divided into the ＇soft-hard＇ axis and the ＇warm-cool＇ axis.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.530-537
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to develop the measuring tool that can grasp the relationship between body and pattern, the result can be directly digitalized and developed as the pattern as body form is. There are 6 measurements; 1) the width of front and rear neck 2) the slant degree of shoulder 3) the degree of protrusion of breasts and scapulae 4) the separation of front and rear board 5) space between body and clothes 6) vertical strand in the clothes Developed measuring tool is handy in un. in which points of body to be measured are small, and it has the capability of designing the high fitness for body. The measurer developed through this study is named as $\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Measurer$\lrcorner$, size paper is named$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Paper$\lrcorner$and the pattern made by$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Measurer$\lrcorner$is named$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern$\lrcorner$respectively by our team. The result of this study is thought to make a great contribution to solving the various problems which can be derived in the time of pattern design because of the difference of physical forms in the same size as well as the difference between the factor of size and that of form in body.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권4호
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• pp.400-411
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• 2012

This study analyzes the formative changes and trends of cape design in modern fashion. In this study, a total of 496 cape designs were collected through the four major fashion collections of Paris, Milan, New York, and London from 2006S/S to 2010F/W, and a literature overview on capes was performed. The results of this study show that the cases with collars and hoods attached outnumbered the non-collared designs. In addition, the cases of lengthy cape in the hip or knee line represent more portions in designs. As to the material, it indicated that generic cloth was used the most. In most cases, decorations with various details and trimmings were also used. For expression characteristics, cases only with unique texture to cloth material and formative beauty were the most remarkable without decoration. For the formative feature, the independent item style was found the most, even though it was worn together with other kinds of clothing. Integration with other types also appeared such as cape jacket, cape dress, cape one-piece, or cape coat. Cape design features in contemporary fashion and could be characterized as feministic elegancy, harmony of practical value and fashion, authoritativeness, and decorativeness from the design trend analysis.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권11호
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• pp.1415-1425
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze a theoretical frame of expressional area, the characteristics and the effects which is applied to fashion illustration by metonymic theory. The theoretical frame of expressional area was analyzed by category analysis and 150 fashion illustrations from 1900 to 1999 were analyzed by contents analysis. The results of this study were as follows: The expressions of metonymy were categorized by close-up, realistic expression, omission, borrowing of past style, simplification and deconstruction. First, close-up was presented as emphasis of small part of fashion by cutting the scenes, snapshot, emphasis, etc. Second, realistic expression was presented as description of related circumstance with fashion message through perspective and realistic description of circumstance related to figures. Third, omission was presented as seeking of essential core by removing color, pattern, texture or by omitting body and as emphasis of communication about dominant fashion message. Fourth, borrowing of past style was presented as reminding us of background of the past. Fifth, simplification was presented as using of form or color to alleviate tension of object and to restore the essential reality. Sixth, deconstruction was presented as fragmenting of image, flattening of body and clothing, weakness of form, and strength of color. In conclusion, metonymy made by experience system of thinking based on the reality, have extended expressional territory in pre-existing fashion illustration. And these ways not only will provide fashion image as illustrator's subjective intention and theoretical system of expression of message, but also will be useful way to strengthen communication for easier interpretation of fashion illustration.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.24-33
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristic and image of oriental costume design on represented among three countries, Korea, China and Japan. The specific objectives were; 1) to identify the design characteristics of oriental costume. 2) to investigate the hierarchic structure of oriental costume image and the meaning structure of oriental costume image. The stimulus were 75 costume design of contemporary costume which represented the traditional image of orient. The main survey of questionary consisted of their evaluation of the oriental costume image by 26 semantic differential bi-polar scales and the subjects were 99 female students majoring in clothing and textiles. The data were analyze by Cluster analysis. Factor analysis, ANOVA, Scheffe test. The major findings were as follows; 1) As a result of design analysis, costume design of Korea, China, Japan had differences on form, color, texture, pattern, ornament, etc. 2) The hierarchic structure of oriental costume image consisted of elegance, sexy, feminine. Through factor analysis about oriental costume image 7 factors were identified; Attention, Attractiveness, Sexiness, Activeness, Weightness, Classics, Classics, Maturity. It was found out strongly that Korean costume image was simple and comfort image, Chinese costume image was sexy and feminine image, Japanese costume image was luxurious and mature image.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.349-355
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• 1992

Comfortable sleeping largely depends on human mental state, physical condition, the temper. ature and humidity in bedrooms, and qualities of quilt and bedcover. Of the qualities of quilt, thermal insulation effect plays the most important role in keeping bedroom in ample temperature and preventing human body from giving off heat. In the present study, which is a sequel study to research on the thermal insulation effect, the real-size quilts with the following items of filling materials in them are designed to research on the variation of each item, and to measure the effect of the weight variation in inner covers on the thermal insulation effect of quilts, the results are as follows: 1. The coefficient between the weight of filling materials and the thermal insulation effect of quilt is shown to be a significant $0.91\~0.97$. 2. The thermal insulation effect of the quilts with in size of $0.5\;Kg/m^{2}$ is surveyed to be high in order down > polyester > cotton > wool. 3. The effect of the texture of inner covers on the thermal insulation effect of quilt is shown to be ignorably low. 4. The weight of filling materials is shown to be in correlation with the thermal insulation effect of quilts, and the estimated regression line has been obtained.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권8호
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• pp.1158-1167
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective textures and sensibilities of consumers. We investigated the relationship of subjective textures and sensibilities according to fiber contents of wool/rayon and stitch loop length. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. A factor analysis showed that subjective textures are classified into 3 categories with $R^2=70.32\%$: 'surface-rough', 'drapable', 'bulky' and 'elastic' and subjective sensibilities into 3 categories with $R^2=68.12\%$: 'stable/neat', 'feminine/elegant' and 'natural/comfortable'. The fiber contents of wool/rayon had a positive and linear relation with 'surface-rough', but had a relatively non-linear one with 'bulky' and 'elastic' categories of textures, and 'feminine/elegant' of sensibilities. The stitch loop length had a linear influence on 'drapable' and 'stable/neat', but had a non-linear influence on other subjective textures and sensibilities.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.626-636
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to show a theoretical system of expressional area, the characteristics and the effects which is applied to fashion illustration by metaphor theory. The theoretical system of expressional area was analyzed by category analysis and 150 fashion illustrations from 1900 to 1999 were analyzed by contents analysis. The results of this study were as follows: Metaphor in fashion illustration was categorized to replacement, parody, heterogeneous combination, surrealism, magnification and reduction of size, optical illusion, juxtaposition and distortion of form. In detail, First, replacement was showed omission of form, non-object color, texture. Second, parody was showed using the part in artistic work, differentiation of original work. Third, heterogeneous combination was showed unreal body combining between animal and plant. Fourth, surrealism was showed creation of object which is impossible to present. Fifth, magnification and reduction of size was showed bizarre magnification of part of body, size of clothing. Sixth, optical illusion was showed ambiguity of object because of creation of new form. Seventh, juxtaposition was showed the parallel of contradicting idea and change of meaning between heterogeneous objects. Eighth, the distortion of form was showed grotesque distortion of part of body and disgusting object.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.83-93
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the relationship among subjective textures, sensibilities and objective handle of knit fabrics and to provide useful information in planning and designing knit fabrics. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of wool/rayon fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. For the subjective evaluation, we used 29 questions of subjective textures and sensibilities and employed statistical analysis tools such as factor, Pearson's correlation analysis. An objective handle was measured by Kawabata evaluation system and HV and THV was calculated by KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter. The analysis of a Pearson's correlation with objective properties and handles and structural properties of knit fabrics demonstrated a highly linear relationship. Especially, wool/rayon contents and WT of tensile properties and loop stitch length and G of shear properties showed a correlation coefficient over 0.9. But a relationship of objective properties and subjective textures and sensibilities was non-linear and a linear multi-regression analysis showed that a objective handle had a lower prediction power in the area of subjective textures and sensibilities.