• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.992-1000
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• 2006

The main purpose of this research is to develop the methodology of objective evaluation of clothing appearance by eye movement analysis. The visual clothing items used in this study were skirt, one-piece, pants and shirt with the style variation of silhouette and details. By observing eye movement during visual evaluation of clothing, we can achieve the basic fixation data of eye movement. Moreover, we developed the Matlab program to extract the fixation coordinate and number of eye fixation on each part of the clothing item. As results, there were differences in the duration of fixation time for each item and the fixation time was not different by styles within a clothing item. However, we could find differences in the fixation time within a style, in other words, we could select the important parts of the clothing by observing the fixation time in a certain clothing item. It is also noted that time required in visual information processing differs depending on the item, and there was a region which contain more information independent with styles in the same item. By developing the objective method of visual evaluation that correspond to human's visual information processing, the results are expected to be applied in the retrieval program in internet shopping mall or in the development of contents for advertisement of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.1-18
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• 2012

This study explores the clothing behavior of homosexual men for identity creation. Since homosexuality has been viewed in terms of immoral, medical or social problems, gay males have made efforts to construct presentational styles in order to hide or reveal their sexual identities. Kate Schofield and Ruth A. Schmidt found that there were three different layers of individual gay identity construction expressed in clothing: shared gay identity, tribal identity, and situational identity. Using their framework, 630 gay men's outfits found in the U.S drama 'Queer as folk' were analyzed, which dealt with the lives of a group of gay men living in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Findings point that gay males use their clothing effectively to express their sexual identity. Firstly, they use certain fashion items as the signifier of homosexuality on a gay community level. They use their clothing to attract the sexual partners. On tribal identity level, diverse and fragmented styles could be shown besides the effeminate style. Homosexual men's clothing can be classified into the following four dominate styles: the drag look, the macho look, the androgynous look and conventional look. Findings also indicate that gay males make different clothing choices for different situations in order to blend into the heterosexual or homosexual society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.269-276
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• 1978

This thesis studied the costumes of Gwan-Rye(관예). the lowest ranking officials of Yi-Dynasty. It researched the written materials and compared it with relics of Gwan-Rye costumes. The gists of the result are; 1) The Koryo tradition of Gwan-Rye costumes continued until the early days of Yi-Dynasty. 2) The Gwan-Rye costumes can be classified into two styles. One is Sa-Ryung(사영) style, which consisted of Dan-Ryung(단령) robe and Jo-Geon(조시) as head gear. Na-Jang(라장) style. the another, consisted of Dan-Ryung. Ban-Bi-Ui(반비의) and Jo-Geon. 3) These styles changed around the days of Yeon-San(연산), the 10th King of the Dynasty. The Na-Jang of later days wore Cheop-Ri(첩리) robe instead of Dan-Ryung. And the Sa-Ryung costume was devided into three different styles. They are (1) Gat(립)- Cheop-Ri (2) Bung-Geo-Ji(단립)-Chang-Ui(창의) (3) Gat- Kwoe-Ja(쾌자) styles.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.13-28
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• 2012

The objective of this research is to examine the fashion styles of Choe Seung-Hee (1911-1969), modern woman and dancer of Korea, through her life and activities. From such theoretical and empirical studies, three aesthetic characteristics of South Korea's modern woman Choe Seung-Hee's fashion styles could be deduced. Based on the three deduced styles of modern elegance, futuristic avant-garde and mystical Asian aesthetics, "Pearl of Asia" was selected as the main theme. The result is that the fashion styles of Choe Seung-Hee is not simply that of an individual modern woman and a dancer who lived in the early 20th century but is a meaningful symbol of Korea's modern women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.786-798
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• 2013

This study establishes a fashion theory frame to forecast future fashion cycles of pants through analyzing past fashion cycles of pants through a diachronic method. Pants pictures from 1967-2012, post-industrialized period of Korea were analyzed. Representative pant styles, fashion cycles of pants and the relation of pant styles, length and width were identified. The total of 1006 pictures in fashion magazine published over 46 years were selected and analyzed using PASW 18.0 (statistical program). The results are as follows. For 46 years, representative pant styles were skinny, regular and bell-bottom. The first cycle period was from 1969 to 1992 and lasted 24 years. The second cycle period was from 1993 to 2003 and lasted 11 years. The third cycle is ongoing as of 2004. Fashion cycles have shown a general trend to be shortened. The relation between pant styles, length and width revealed related results; in addition, pant length and width changed significantly in a similar orientation. Fashion marketers can develop successful products using fashion cycle theory from these results.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.181-193
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to review, from the point of view that the advertisements are cultural system which transfers the life styles or value systems of a certain time, the expression styles by analyzing written clothing described in underwear advertisements of women's magazines targeting the women aged from twenties to forties, that advertisements are trying to represent. Accordingly, this study is intended to provide the underwear industry with useful information for implementing sales strategies by verifying the determining factors in selecting and wearing of underwear. The result of this study is as follows : First, the headlines of advertisements could be analyzed through merchandise, situation and consumers and were categorized by the fourteen different expression styles such as functionality, sense of beauty, tradition, future, family, exotic, globalization, environment, sensuality, youth, individuality, health, newness and top-class. Therefore, the advertisers choose and provide the various expression styles in order to maximize the delivering power of the underwear advertisements. Second, frequently used expression styles have been analyzed through frequency analysis of expression styles and, as a result, the important factors of choosing and wearing underwear have been verified. In addition, the fact that the ways of thinking of modern society and value systems are implied in the expression of underwear advertisements has been found.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.7
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• pp.1065-1077
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• 2010

This study researchers the libretto and the original novel of the opera to propose fashion styles and stage costumes for the opera, "La $boh\grave{e}me$." This article studied the meanings of the $boh\grave{e}me$ in the 1830's France and the characteristics of the $boh\grave{e}me$ that appeared in the original novel, "$Sc\grave{e}nes$ de la vie de $boh\grave{e}me$." The characteristics of bohemian fashion styles in the $Sc\grave{e}nes$ de la vie de $boh\grave{e}me$ were not normal, not related with trends, and not new. Before presenting the new fashion styles, this study examined the stage costume problems of La $boh\grave{e}me$ with five existing performance materials. In conclusion, this study proposed new stage costume designs that reflect more dramatic fashion expressions of the characters, expression on the passage of time, and contemporary fashion records.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.1-18
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• 2014

This study analyzes the styles of Baekje costumes by examining costume types and styles based on the research of old books and a comparative study of archaeological and historical Baekje art relics in Central Asia. The results of the study are as follows. 1. Through the comparative study of the records of old books, relic materials (Yangjikgongdo, Mural paintings of Takamatsuzuka Tumulus, Cheonsuguk Mandarasujang, Shosoin relics, and Haniwas), we can see that ancient Japanese costumes were influenced by the culture of Baekje costumes. 2. A comparative study of the records of relic materials of Baekje and Central Asia show that there were vigorous interchanges between the East and West. 3. Baekje costumes showed a great diversity in styles because they were based on Buyeo costumes developed in conjunction with vigorous overseas trade. 4. Baekje's upper garments are summarized as Boksam and Po for men and Yu, Banbi and Euisapo for women. Boksam and Yu styles varied as tunics and overlapped jackets with straight and round collars. Two types of sleeves coexisted. The sleeves of Hansung Baekje period were a diagonal lined style that was wide on the armhole and narrow on the wrist. The sleeves of Sabi Baekje period were a reversed diagonal lined style that is narrow on the armhole and wide on the wrist. Pants styles were summarized as Gon, Gunggo and Daegugo. There were not enough relics and references for the Baekje costumes; however, this study widens the possibility of the existence of various styles of Baekje costumes through inferences from available data.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.55-70
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• 2012

In 16th century, during renaissance time, Britain's queen Elizabeth I, as a means to express her authority, had an exaggerated clothing styles and was the fashion leader of the time. Thus, through a media of Cinema, tried to find out the characteristics and different aspects of the history of clothing styles, of how they changed, ascertained, restored, and reappeared in the modern time. The research was based on the consideration of Elizabeth I's 33 portraits and her clothing styles; and the research is also from analysing the movies from 1937 to 2007, a total of 9 Cinema and 102 clothes. Movie costumes' most important mission is representing the cinema's timely and spatial background. Thus, it is inevitable that ascertaining and restoring Elizabeth I's portrait should be done. However, the movie costume has to show her dramatic lifestyle, dignity, absolute authority, and other visual images. In addition, the costume has to contribute in making artistic effect and thus the creativity of a designer to satisfy all these needs should be added. Based on the findings from the research, the characteristics of Elizabeth I's Cinema costume are first, ascertaining and restoring portraits, second, mixture of silhouette and detail depending on time period, third, partial change on clothing style design, fourth, emphasis of ruff collar, fifth, magnification colors, sixth, avoiding excessive swelling and decoration, and applying modern style on Protective costume. Thus, based on the research, creative design in Cinema clothing, plays an important part in the history of clothing design. I hope this research could work as a foundation reference for clothing design's history.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.13-26
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• 1986

The purpose of this study was to design a set of functional and creative clothing for elementary school children emphasizing the physical, psychological and athletic developments in children. At the same time plans were made to protect the child from an environment which presents obstacles or dangers to children's activities. The followings are criteria for clothing design of this study. 1) Ease for comfort 2) Protection from abraision 3) Protection from snagging 4) Protection from soiling 5) Repose Functional and ply valant styles and materials were chosen so that a child can easily change his clothes in different styles, and efforts in clothing are being made to meet the various demands of children's activities.