• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.305-321
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• 1998

The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.48-58
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to analyze four separate elements-sublime beauty, elegant beauty, mysticism, ornament-which appeared in materials, patterns, colors, silhouettes, details, and accessories, laying stress on luxurious, brilliant, mysterious feelings on Gorgeous Images appeared as trend theme of modern fashion by mixing religious mysticism of the Byzantine Empire. Mysticism element is using the effect of splendid and gorgeous colors from the Orient rather than forms. And a philosophy of abundant colors in mosaics, which are seen in art forms such as architecture, paintings, etc., shows that it creates some visual rooms for religious spirits. Influenced by the fashion of the Greco-Roman style, the elegant beauty element is expressing abundant comfort and elegant feminine lines that are from creases, and it is also emphasizing natural beauty which seems to slip down by displaying the splendid images of Gorgeous as drapes that fit a body. Ornament element was reflecting an inspiration from the splendid and brilliant culture of religion in the Byzantine Age. Therefore, it was appeared as a style filling the whole with bulky silks, splendid ornamental materials embroidered in gold or silver thread, the complicated geometric patterns that are two-dimensional and dignified, and so on. It was decorated with crosses which represent Christianity as a motif, and also it emphasized the splendor of the Byzantine and dazzling splendid images of Gorgeous by using accessaries decorated with various jewels. The elements of sublime beauty are showing the beauty adding humble and majestic images to it as designs sought by spiritual values or intrinsic values. Those designs, so to speak, have pretense which does not allow to expose a body and plain pure feeling, so that they are showing some abstinent styles in a solemn atmosphere, with most details removed. We can say the Fashion Theme appearing in Modern Times is the result from representing by combining various factors of the times with formative beauty through creative works for aesthetic expression. The moderners are requiring new designs which is possible to meet their individualities, in addition to their outstanding fashion senses. From this point of view, a variety of textiles, patterns, and colors in the Byzantine have a great meaning to fulfill people's various desires as interesting elements.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.59-78
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• 2005

This study aims to know the deferences of hair fashion feeling group in accordance with hair styling activities, general characteristics, life styles objecting to capital area university women students and aid to hair fashion design. So the results are as belows. 1. Frequency Analysis of Categories A. Hair fashion feeling - Natural, sexy, romantic pretty, sophisticate, ethnic are 90% in total hair fashion feeling variables in sequence of frequency, so it can be said these are in vogue. B. Hair styling activities - The objections visit the hair salon once 1-2months, spend about 42,000 won a month, perform cut & wave perm to sentimental reasens & hair style changes, determine the hair style well coordinated in her image and managed easily. In her home, they manage her hair style 12 minutes a day, spend 17,000 won to buy hair aids, do hair blow dry or pin or pony tail mainly in the morning, scarcely use the hair styling aids but if use, essence or wax mainly. And the degree of interest to hair style is high. C. General Characteristics - The objections's average age is 21.1, residence is seoul kangnam 23.3%, seoul kangbook 18.4%, other capital areas 58.4%, the degree of education is university students 94.9%, graduated student 5.1%, marriage is married 96%, unmarried 2.8%, family who live with is married are mainly man & woman and living with father & mother in low in man's, unmarried are mainly live alone & nuclear family, personal expenses a month is 300,000 won in average, income of home is 4,000,000 won a month. D. Life style - The objections are not in interest of physical exercises but if are, do yoga & health, like drama & comedies program, watch TV or meet friend in leisure time, like balad & dance music, fashion magazine, meet friend in cafe or college. 2. Relationship of hair fashion feeling & other variables Using the $x^2$-test, level p<0.05, Hair styling activities(frequency of hair salon coming in and out, ordinary time representing hair style, preferred hair styling aids, the amount of hair style interest), General Characteristics(age), Life style(leisure time) variables are meaningful.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.16 no.4 s.34
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• pp.27-41
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to provide a primary data for the revision of Home Economics Curriculum from the quantitative content analysis of illustrations in current Home Economics textbooks from the gender equity perspective. This study analyzed 342 illustrations and 1.368 individuals in 15 volumes of Home Economics textbooks of the 7th curriculum by units. The major findings of this study show that current Home Economics textbooks improved compared to the textbooks of previous the 4th, 5th. and 6th curriculum periods in terms of sex proportion and sex compositions of individuals appeared in illustrations. However, sex roles. color of clothing and dressing styles. and background and description of individuals appeared in illustrations tends to not described as gender equitable. This study recommends that there is a need for Department of Education to provide a specific manual and authorization standards for writing textbooks and constructing illustrations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.1 s.91
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• pp.25-42
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• 2005

Costume is a formative art expressed by active human unlike the field of other living formativeness, and an expression of social actions based on a style of culture in a period. Therefore, costume has a deep connection with a mode of living and is recognized as a 'culture for living', and is more characteristic culture than all metaphysical cultures including architecture, craft, painting, and sculpture. Therefore, it expresses wearer's status or social standing, and furthermore, ideas and values of the times with aesthetic features in their form, color, materials, and pattern, so it is expressed as a mirror reflecting the phases of the times as. Korean costume had been dressed until the period of the Joseon Dynasty without a great change and started to be simplified in a simple style on the grounds of inconvenience in behaviors with the opening of an interchange of Western culture in the civilized period. And, this movement had been continued and Korean costume had been applied as an everyday dress under the name of 'Reformed Korean Costume'. Since the middle phase of 1980s, it aroused many people's interests with the introduction of designs focused on activity and convenience. In 1990's, many people had taken a growing interest in Korean costume with development of various designs keeping pace with the internationalization period and Korean Costume had been revitalized under the name of 'The Modernized Korean Costume'. And, since the 21st century, the advanced communication and full-scaled import of Western fashion have made the introduction of many fashion information in the world into Korea, affected greatly the fashion market, led consumers' sensitivity on a trend to be increased. Therefore, a design accepting a trend 'The Modernized Korean Costume' with fashions has risen. Second, this study is an attempt to suggest a revitalization method of domestic casual Korean costume brands by developing and suggesting competitive and highly value-added products with connection of practicality, variety, and highly sensitive fashion styles. For theoretical study, domestic and foreign literatures, academic journals, professional monthly magazines, and newspapers were examined. And, a process of change and features of the Korean fashion since the civilization period, and concept, features and images of casual Korean costume were analyzed, On the basis of analyzing image, features, and consumers' preference of the modernized Korean costume, a design development plan was established and 10 suits of costume were designed and made.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.199-208
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• 1998

This study forecasts the trend of ethnic theme through market survey, concentrating on Los Angeles market. First, the background of ethnic theme was examined, and the present situation of shops, department sores, and headquarter was also surveyed. After that, fashion trend suitable for market was suggested by analyzing the life style of consumers through zip code. The results of the study are as follows. The conspicuous trend of '97 F/W retail stores is ethnic. This reaction to complicated modern life, and symbolizes the desirable evaluation on the simpleness of basic life and nature. The model of ethnic design is identified in natural clothing, primitive arts, ethnic culture and African theme. In short, this ethnic fashion is expressed as simpleness, naturalism convenience and freedom. On the other hand, the standard of general department stores such as Broadway and Robinson May which are the headquarter of this trend is to satisfy various consumers with various styles. Ethnic goods from Broadway has not arrived at the top for its introducing step. To elevate sales of these goods, promotion through VMD and suggesting various ethnic goods should be done. Besides, when analyzing the consumers of Beverly center Broadway, the target of these goods are mostly professional young people in their 25-34 and 35-44. The life style of these people emphasizes sophisticated life in aspects such as job-oriented activities, and up-to-date fashion. Especially, image is very important. They want individuality different from others. These images are diversified from simpleness, naiveness to sexy character. Accordingly, suggesting fashion trend satisfying the demand of consumers through market survey will make fashion market create infinite possibilities.

• MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
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• v.98
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• pp.226-241
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• 2020

Located on the right side of the third floor of the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, the "Art of Central Asia" exhibition boasts the world's finest collection of artworks and artifacts from the Silk Road. Every item in the collection has been classified by region, and many of them were collected in the early twentieth century through archaeological surveys led by Russia's Pyotr Kozlov, Mikhail Berezovsky, and Sergey Oldenburg. Some of these artifacts have been presented around the world through special exhibitions held in Germany, France, the United Kingdom, the Netherlands, Korea, Japan, and elsewhere. The fruits of Russia's Silk Road expeditions were also on full display in the 2008 exhibition The Caves of One Thousand Buddhas - Russian Expeditions on the Silk Route on the Occasion of 190 Years of the Asiatic Museum, held at the Hermitage Museum. Published in 2018 by the Shanghai Chinese Classics Publishing House in collaboration with the Hermitage Museum, Kuche Art Relics Collected in Russia introduces the Hermitage's collection of artifacts from the Kuche (or Kucha) region. While the book focuses exclusively on artifacts excavated from the Kuche area, it also includes valuable on-site photos and sketches from the Russian expeditions, thus helping to enhance readers' overall understanding of the characteristics of Kuche art within the Buddhist art of Central Asia. The book was compiled by Dr. Kira Samosyuk, senior curator of the Oriental Department of the Hermitage Museum, who also wrote the main article and the artifact descriptions. Dr. Samosyuk is an internationally renowned scholar of Central Asian Buddhist art, with a particular expertise in the art of Khara-Khoto and Xi-yu. In her article "The Art of the Kuche Buddhist Temples," Dr. Samosyuk provides an overview of Russia's Silk Road expeditions, before introducing the historical development of Kuche in the Buddhist era and the aspects of Buddhism transmitted to Kuche. She describes the murals and clay sculptures in the Buddhist grottoes, giving important details on their themes and issues with estimating their dates, and also explains how the temples operated as places of worship. In conclusion, Dr. Samosyuk argues that the Kuche region, while continuously engaging with various peoples in China and the nomadic world, developed its own independent Buddhist culture incorporating elements of Gandara, Hellenistic, Persian, and Chinese art and culture. Finally, she states that the culture of the Kuche region had a profound influence not only on the Tarim Basin, but also on the Buddhist grottoes of Dunhuang and the central region of China. A considerable portion of Dr. Samosyuk's article addresses efforts to estimate the date of the grottoes in the Kuche region. After citing various scholars' views on the dates of the murals, she argues that the Kizil grottoes likely began prior to the fifth century, which is at least 100 years earlier than most current estimates. This conclusion is reached by comparing the iconography of the armor depicted in the murals with related materials excavated from the surrounding area (such as items of Sogdian art). However, efforts to date the Buddhist grottoes of Kuche must take many factors into consideration, such as the geological characteristics of the caves, the themes and styles of the Buddhist paintings, the types of pigments used, and the clothing, hairstyles, and ornamentation of the depicted figures. Moreover, such interdisciplinary data must be studied within the context of Kuche's relations with nearby cultures. Scientific methods such as radiocarbon dating could also be applied for supplementary materials. The preface of Kuche Art Relics Collected in Russia reveals that the catalog is the first volume covering the Hermitage Museum's collection of Kuche art, and that the next volume in the series will cover a large collection of mural fragments that were taken from Berlin during World War II. For many years, the whereabouts of these mural fragments were unknown to both the public and academia, but after restoration, the fragments were recently re-introduced to the public as part of the museum's permanent exhibition. We look forward to the next publication that focuses on these mural fragments, and also to future catalogs introducing the artifacts of Turpan and Khotan. Currently, fragments of the murals from the Kuche grottoes are scattered among various countries, including Russia, Germany, and Korea. With the publication of this catalog, it seems like an opportune time to publish a comprehensive catalog on the murals of the Kuche region, which represent a compelling mixture of East-West culture that reflects the overall characteristics of the region. A catalog that includes both the remaining murals of the Kizil grottoes and the fragments from different parts of the world could greatly enhance our understanding of the murals' original state. Such a book would hopefully include a more detailed and interdisciplinary discussion of the artifacts and murals, including scientific analyses of the pigments and other materials from the perspective of conservation science. With the ongoing rapid development in western China, the grotto murals are facing a serious crisis related to climate change and overcrowding in the oasis city of Xinjiang. To overcome this challenge, the cultural communities of China and other countries that possess advanced technology for conservation and restoration must begin working together to protect and restore the murals of the Silk Road grottoes. Moreover, centers for conservation science should be established to foster human resources and collect information. Compiling the data of Russian expeditions related to the grottoes of Kuche (among the results of Western archaeological surveys of the Silk Road in the early twentieth century), Kuche Art Relics Collected in Russia represents an important contribution to research on Kuche's Buddhist art and the Silk Road, which will only be enhanced by a future volume introducing the mural fragments from Germany. As the new authoritative source for academic research on the artworks and artifacts of the Kuche region, the book also lays the groundwork for new directions for future studies on the Silk Road. Finally, the book is also quite significant for employing a new editing system that improves its academic clarity and convenience. In conclusion, Dr. Kira Samosyuk, who planned the publication, deserves tremendous praise for taking the research of Silk Road art to new heights.