• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.656-664
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• 2019

This study was to develop the patterns based on the study of commercial Cheollik dress pattern analysis that verify the effects of pattern improvement by performing wearing evaluations. The commercial Cheollik dress pattern analysis was divided into A type composed of a traditional hanbok flat sleeve type and B type composed of western three-dimensional sleeves type. The prototype pattern of A type and prototype pattern of B type were fabricated after modifying and supplementing the pattern on the basis of precedent research. Appearance evaluations and mobility evaluations were also conducted. In the evaluations of the appearance, the prototype pattern in both A type and B type rated better than the control pattern in all items, so it can be judged to be a pattern that creates a better appearance in terms of allowance and design ratio. In the evaluations of the mobility, the prototype pattern was more convenient and a functional pattern with better scores in both A type and B type. If the Cheollik dress prototype patterns developed in this study are distributed, the Cheollik dress will be easy and comfortable to wear as a casual wear, which will help to make dailyization and popularization of Hanbok.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.311-322
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• 1996

To accomodate workers with efficient mobility, coveralls were redesigned, construted and evaluated. In this study, especially, image processing techniques were applied to the evaluation stage, to quantify thE ease of body movement. For the initial observation stage, car-center workers were interviewed and their movements were videotaped. By analyzing the videotape, the area of stress and strains on the work clothes were marked on the figure chert and considered for the pattern making. 4DM cut pattern were applied to the upper part of the work clothes and other alternations were made throughout the problem area. Honey comb slashes were made on the problem area of the original and newly designed coveralls. Open areas of honey comb slashes due to body movement between the original and newly designed coveralls were analyzed by image processing techniques. Other objective and subjective evaluation of newly designed coveralls was compared with the original one. Overall evaluation of functionally designed coveralls was appered to be positive and the image processing techiques were useful methology to quantify the amount of stress in this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.9_10
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• pp.1342-1351
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• 2007

Using a data set drawn from 1419 college students, this study analyzes what implications clothing or fashion has on self-expression or image management in Korean society and who are more likely to use fashion as a image management tool in the process of interacting with others. Employing Pierre Bourdieu's concept of capital, we discuss three theories concerning correspondence between class and fashion: the theory focusing on economic capital in emphasizing the correspondence; the theory focusing on cultural capital in emphasizing the correspondence and the theory emphasizing relationships between fashion and other factors rather than class. Based on the theoretical examination, we select independent variables that can be grouped into status/class variables, or economic capital variables(such as subjective status, income, father's education, father's occupation) and socio-cultural variables, or cultural capital variables(such as possession of cultural capital, desire for upward mobility). Upon regressing strategic use of fashion on independent variables, we find that both status/class variables and socio-cultural variables are statistically significant in explaining the strategic mobilization of fashion for one's image production or social success. It shows that class as a form of economic capital has important effects on the strategic use of fashion, and cultural capital also has effects independent of economic capital.

• Journal of the Korea Institute of Military Science and Technology
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.193-200
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• 2012

The selection factors of the protective clothing against the NBC agents are the protection(chemical, biological, TIMs), duration, weight/comfort, dexterity/mobility, size, visibility, cleaning and unit cost, etc. To develop the NBC protective clothing, we should need to review about the design concepts of the protective materials(shell and liner fabric) and form. This paper identify an important factors for the protective materials and form, and presents design strategies for important factors based on the evaluation results of the materials and the form.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.209-219
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• 2019

This study analyzed and compared wearer mobility for different types of clothing that also included the potential to develop firefighter station uniforms using range of motion (ROM) and electromyography (EMG). This study focused on a comparison of wearer mobility affected by different materials and shapes of the station uniforms worn under firefighter turnout gear. Japanese standard uniform (UNI), stretch-wear (ST), and compression-wear (CP) were used as station uniforms for the experiment. This study analyzed wearer movements and quantified ROM and EMG. In addition, the subjective evaluation of wearer mobility and comfort were assessed for comparisons. Nine healthy male students participated in the experiment. Wearer mobility was analyzed using ROM and EMG data obtained by measuring five motions; in addition, subjective evaluations were also obtained. As compared with the standard station uniform, ROM increased 6.8 % and 7.2 % due to stretch-wear and compression-wear. The benefits of wearing stretch material or compression material to improve muscle performance (such as reduced percent of maximum voluntary contraction) were not proven. Differences between materials and designs influenced subjective wearer comfort. In particular, the wearing of compression materials was shown best in terms of wearer comfort that may also allow greater wearer mobility.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.606-617
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• 2019

The present study newly developed a firefighters' protective jacket and pants using a Nomex honeycomb structured layer (HPC) in cases of being exposed to flashover or flameover. This study evaluated the protective and comfort functions of an HPC compared to the current KFI firefighters' protective clothing (FPC). The results are as follows. First, thermal protective performance (TPP) of fabric layers was 2.75 times greater for HPC than FPC at $125kW/m^2$. Second, the predicted second and third degree burn areas were smaller for HPC than FPC when using a flame manikin. Third, thermal insulation using a thermal manikin was 0.2 clo greater for HPC than FPC. Fourth, there were no marked differences in maximal performance, mobility, and microclimate temperature/humidity between FPC and HPC through human wear trials. The thermal insulation of HPC was higher than that of FPC; however, any negative effect of HPC thermal insulation on the comfort functions for firefighters was not found. In conclusion, the newly-developed HPC provided more protection in reducing burn injuries from $125kW/m^2$, while no negative impact on maximal performance, mobility and thermal comfort functions of firefighters, which is appropriate for quick-evasive tactics at the flashover, flameover or back draft fires.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.950-965
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• 2017

This present study proposed a newly developed test method to evaluate the dexterity and mobility of a firefighter's protective gloves. The first step evaluated the mobility and dexterity of the current type of fire protective gloves and three new types of protective gloves using Don-doff test, ASTM dexterity, Minnesota dexterity, Bennett hand tool test, and ASTM torque test. Three firefighters ($47.3{\pm}5.0yr$ in age, $178.6{\pm}2.9cm$ in height) participated in a series of experiments. The second step was to design and suggest an integrated test method based on the results of the first experiment. As a result of the first experiment, we concluded that 1) the mobility and dexterity tests for firefighting gloves should include both wet and dry tests, 2) The three kinds of dexterity tests could be integrated into one test, and 3) The don-doff test and the torque test should be independent from the newly developed integrated test. In summary, we suggested a simplified test method that combined ASTM dexterity, Minnesota dexterity, and Bennett hand tool test. The integrated system can reduce total time spent on dexterity tests and improve the validity of the test in terms of firefighters' manual work.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.53-70
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to review the innovation of Vidal Sassoon's hair design. His hair styling was created in 1950-60, and it was related to the Zeitgeist, 'Convulsion'. It was aesthetic reform that eliminated artificially of headdress through new design concept and high technique. It was social renovation that changed women's life through freedom, ease and mobility of hair form. Also, it was scientific innovation that emphasized improvement of hair care. Therefore this researcher set a high value on his contribution in beauty industry, and studied the formative characteristics of his hair styling. The results are as follows: The formative characteristics are classified into the simplicity of form, the mobility of construction, and the variety of color and texture. 1. The simplicity of form showed through geometric form. Vidal Sassoon's hair design had the overthrow traditional concept of femininity and beauty; in addition, it conferred freedom on not only hair itself but also women's action. 2. The naturalism and mobility of construction was found in layered and softly swinging hair made up by skillful cutting technique. It was developed by studying on the dynamism of sports in 1984 LA Olympic games. 3. The variety of color and texture showed conspicuously its visual evidence because of the simplicity of form. Especially, he borrowed factors of fine art, that is to say, form, space, texture, line, color and light, and created a performance art. His work is analyzed into an art, and he is one of the best artists.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.752-770
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• 2017

This study provides a size specification and ease for the development of pants for working clothes in the construction industry according to season. We collected and measured the size specification of 4 types of Spring/Fall pants, 4 types of winter brushed bonding pants, and 4 types of winter padded pants. Subjective comfort evaluation and analysis of ease sensation were performed for all products on 12 subjects. The average size specifications for the pants according to seasons were as follows. Spring/Fall pants had 74.0/80.0cm waist size (relaxed/maximum stretched) and 104.0cm hip size. Winter brushed bonding pants had 76.0/83.4cm for waist size and 106.0cm for hip size. Winter padded pants had 71.5/84.0cm for waist size and 112.8cm for hip size. When designing a pattern by comparing product size specification and subject body size, the recommended ease is 0.2/7.2cm for waist size (relaxed, maximum stretched) and 13.6cm for hip size for Spring/Fall pants, and 0.2/6.2cm for waist size and 11.6cm for hip size of winter brushed bonding pants, and -5.3/7.2cm for waist size and 19.4cm for the hip size of winter padded pants.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.41-54
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to research on status of physical discomfort and clothing life including clothing inconvenience for enhancing self-reliance of elderly women, newly emerging consumer. The subject of research were 346 elderly women who aged 60 or older in Seoul and Seoul Suburbs. Survey consisted of questions about body discomfort, satisfaction and purchasing criteria of ready-to-wear, the inconvenience of clothing. The results of this study are as follows: Physical discomforts were generally associated with the ability to regulate body temperature. The biggest complaint of ready-to-wear was the price, and the next were the size and activity. In purchasing criteria, 'clothes to fit my body shape', 'clothes easy to put on and take off', 'comfortable clothes to work' showed high score. In clothing inconvenience, 'feel inconvenience due to several layers of clothing to avoid chilliness', 'feel heaviness in the waist due to tightness', 'feel chilliness even when wearing several layers of clothing in the winter' were the most uncomfortable parts. Subjects over the age of 80 years and needed the help of others in activities experienced more inconvenience in clothing life. It seems that body discomfort such as dulness of movement and loss of body temperature regulation capability due to aging had a influence on their clothing life. This problem could be improved by the adjustment of pattern allowance, the selection of the fastener, and the proper use of functional fabric. The results of this study will be used as a basis for development of the elderly women's clothing to increase convenience and mobility in everyday life.