• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.15-26
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to understand the characteristics of body types of adult woman under 155cm in height. To do this, direct measurement data showed that only 660 women aged 20~69 years old and under 155cm tall were classified, and their body type characteristics were analyzed. There are 51 body measurement items used in the analysis. The results of the study are as follows: As a result of the comparison of the body size of all adult women and women under 155cm, it was seen that short women were smaller than the all women, and were flattened with a slightly plump and bendless body. Factor analysis was performed to classify the body type of short women. Six factors including body size, body height, shoulder length and width, waist back length, hip length, and shoulder angle were measured. The results of cluster analysis, using factor scores, were classified into three types. Type 1 is taller among short women and slightly slimmer, and is an A-shape. Type 2 has the largest BMI and was the middle stature among short women It is the most obese body type and is an H-shape. Type 3 is short and plump, with a poor hip and is a Y-shape. As a result of crossover analysis, there was a difference in the body type characteristics of each age group. After all, the body type of the short adult women under 155cm was clearly different from those of all adult women, there was also a difference in the body type among short adult women.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.63-78
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• 2018

This study analyzed gender-fluid images as expressions of feminism and gender identity expressed in fashion collections. As for the research method, this study searched the fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, utilizing key words related to feminism on an online portal, and collected the photo materials of fashion collections provided by vogue.com. This study classified the photo materials of 31 fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, into femininity, masculinity, androgyny, and avant-garde, according to the fashion design elements that divide gender identity. As a result of the classification, 326 photos were collected, in which gender identity was expressed ambiguously. This study reclassified the collected photos according to their fashion items and styles. As a result of the study, it was noticed that the fashion collections with the theme of feminism expressed the messages, using lettering graphic images, and performance. In addition, they showed a form in which men's collections and women's collections were integrated according to the change of the perceptions of gender identity, of feminism, and delivered body positive expressions, respecting differences and diversity as individual subjects, by casting diverse models in terms of age, body size, race, and culture. As for the gender identity expressed in the fashion collections, the gender-fluid images were classified into empowerment images, that expresses social rights and dignity; agender images that expresses the possibility of a gender-flexible transition; rational images that expresses the rational and practical characteristics that removed the boundary of fashion; and images of pro-sexism that expresses a new gender identity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.20-34
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• 2010

This study is intended to suggest the characteristic of dress and its ornament introduced in terms of naturalized words on Korean newspapers and magazines published from the age of enlightenment to the Independence(1876-1945). First of all, naturalized words in that period(1876-1945) can be classified into words originated in Japanese, words originated in western countries and borrowed words came from Japan. Borrowed words which came from Japan are almost related to Japan's traditional dress like Gudu, Gabang, Kimono, Nemaki, Ebijahagama, Hagama, Sirusibanden, Doriachi, Dombi, Sarumada, Sseumeeri, Doriachi, and Mombbe. Borrowed words originated in western countries are like Frock coat, Bonnet, Necktie, Chapeau, Scotch, Homespun, Chamois, Skirt, Spring Coat, Ribbon, Silk hat, Panama hat, Handbag, Pajama, Shawl, Apron, Cuffs, Pocket, Handkerchief, Morning coat, Combination-one piece, Rain Coat, Burberry, and Permanent, etc. Borrowed words came from Japan is Lasa[raxa], jokki[jaket], Les[lace], Veludo[velvet], Bbanss[pants], Oba[overcoat], Meliyas[medias], Shass[shirt], Manto[manteau], and Sebiro[civil clothes]. As we can see from the result of research, borrowed words from the age of enlightenment to the Independence was because of its special social situation, Japanese imperialism, they are divided into real western words and words came from Japan or Japanese. In terms of items, a lot of words related to men's suit and women's dress, accessory, etc. It confirms that men's dress was westernized in the whole part compared to partially westernized women's one. A lot of words used at that period are now adapted to Korean language and became the foundation of words used in the current dress and its ornament area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.85-102
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the origins of knitwear the history of patterned knits. Aithough historians know little about the origins of knitting many believe it was practiced as early as the 4th century by nomads roaming North Africa. later Arab raders adopted the craft which helped then while away the hours as they traveled across deserts in camel carabans, Its origins lie in the need for close-fitting and elasticated covering for the body in particular the head hand and feet. it first developed in the Mediterranean countries and later in Central and particularly Northern Europe. Early evidence of multicolored knitting is said to date back to the Egyptian Copts of 600-800 A.D. medieval knitting is developed through the Church and monastery. The increasing demand for knitted products already observable in the fourteenth and fifteenth centries and the number of preserved knitted articles increases inexcavated materialos from Europe. The improvements in technique stimulated the developement of the hand knitting industry in the early sixteenth century. The best-known source of production is the guild organization and their mass production consisted of the carpets cushion coverings and other small items for furnishing interiors but mainly of clothing. The demand for knitted goods was such that in the late sixteenth century it was mechanised, The knitting frame invented in 1589 by William Lee English priest was the most perfect machine of this period. The mass production of fully-fashioned and seamless garments in the late nineteenth and twentieth century was dangerously competitve to traditionally woven and sewn cloth in. As fashions changed knitwear has had an almost continuous ruse in public favour and the popularity of sports has encourage the fashion for flexible easy-fitting and absorbent garments.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.315-326
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• 2015

Woman leadership has been remarkably highlighted with women's accelerating entry into society. Domestic and overseas interests about political leaders began with the age of media and they are rapidly spreading worldwide with the development of internet, SNS and blog. Along with this phenomenon, exposure of images has been remarkably increasing and fashion has been also used as a political strategy. However, the research on woman political leaders has been insufficient so this study selected Geunhye Park, Michelle Obama and Hillary Clinton as representative woman leaders for the research. 149 pictures of Geunhye Park, 171 pictures of Michelle Obama and 124 pictures of Hillary Clinton from the articles containing their pictures from Jan. 2002 to Dec. 2013 were analyzed, focusing on their gender. The three woman political leaders' typical images of femininity, masculinity and androgyny were categorized respectively and the period and works in which those images had been expressed were reviewed. Also, fashion styles of the images pursued by each gender were analyzed through their color, material, silhouette, design point, items and accessories. As a result, Geunhye Park had femininity image at the beginning and had masculinity image when she did election campaigns, which led to her current image of androgyny. Michelle Obama uses the image of femininity, masculinity and androgyny simultaneously. It was found that Hillary Clinton emphasized the image of masculinity and androgyny but she emphasizes femininity image these days.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.5
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• pp.29-43
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• 2001

Database marketing is a series of marketing activities based on the customer database for increasing the customer's life-time value. In this thesis. we applied database marketing to the sales promotional strategies of Casual Korean Traditional Clothes to activate wearing of Casual Korean Traditional Clothes. To achieve this goal, we surveyed the consciousness of wearing and purchases for Casual Korean Traditional Clothes. and extract information that can be utilized in the sales promotional strategies. According to the result, the proposed sales promotional strategies for Casual Korean Traditional Clothes are summarized as follows : (1) Useful information for the customer should be stored in the database and utilized in the marketing. (2) It is necessary to shorten the cycle of repeated purchases by emphasizing daily-life clothing of Casual Korean Traditional Clothes especially for the aged 20-40. (3) Since Casual Korean Traditional Clothes are usually weared as a ceremonial clothes in the fall, direct mail, fashion show, and advertising in the mass media should be concentrated on this season. (4) Value-added marketing should be derived by cross-selling of items harmonized with Casual Korean Traditional Clothes. (5) To guarantee fixed customers and increased usage of Casual Korean Traditional Clothes, - give point score, discount, or selling on an installment basis for the customers who use credit cards or department cards. - select privileged customers by analyzing purchase history and provide multiple services for these customers. - let the customers rent Casual Korean Traditional Clothes in an appropriate cost, and make customer cards for the construction of elaborated customer database. (6) To increase the acknowledgement of Casual Korean Traditional Clothes, not only Persistent publicity, but also fashion show, visual merchandising, and advertisement in mass media should be conducted as well.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.301-308
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to design men's clothing pattern that supplemented the problems of body shapes, by grasping the physical characteristics of middle-aged men and classifying their body shapes through comparing measurements after carrying out the human-body measurement targeting 120 middle-aged men at the age of 35-49 in full. As to the technical-statistic analysis of the measurement items, it could be seen that the middle-aged people who are the research target, have the obese body shapes. As a result of carrying out the factor analysis by the measurement analysis, it was derived the totally five factors such as thickness and width, stature and height, weight and girth, the bust length, and the shoulder shape. The total communality is 78.47%, and as a result of the cluster analysis by the factor score, it was classified into three clusters. Type 1 is the body shape with the great stature, the waist region a little obese, and the biggest thickness, width and girth. It is a flat body shape with the narrow shoulder and the smallest difference between the breast width and the waist width. As type 2 is the body shape that is small stature and is relatively not fat, it is the shape with the biggest difference between the breast width and the waist width and with the wide shoulder. Type 3 is the body shape that belongs to the middle of type 1 and type 2, has the upper-part body longer than other body shapes, and has the developed breast region with the biggest bosom width and bosom thickness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.173-181
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• 2013

This research analyzed the expression trend about the slit which composes the open space by the visual concept and then introduced the imbedded aesthetic value in it. Based on it, this work aims at showing the evidence on the slit as a utilizing tool for various design applications and providing the basic materials in order to develop the creative design production in the fashion area in the future. Specifically, for the theoretical background in this research, the concept of slit and its chronological changes were reviewed through literature. For the empirical analysis on the slit, a total of 226 designs with its application were analyzed from collection pieces in the four major collections including Paris, Milan, New York, and London from 2006S/S to 2012S/S. As a result of analysis, types of slit appeared as a slash, opening, slit, or a mix of them. These were applied to many different items of clothing, and among which, one-piece or dress was adopted most for application. In regard to space form, perpendicularity was used most frequently. But other various forms like cross and geometrical pattern were also used as well as curve, oblique line and horizontality. As to the arrangement of slit, single type was most frequently used. However, in addition to it, other types were also applied, producing both the functionality and the decorative detail such as bilateral symmetry, free irregularity, and a combination of regular and repeated layout which makes an effect of single pattern. Aesthetic values imbedded in slit were revealed as functionality, sensuality, spatiality, and decorativeness.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.682-693
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• 2017

The purpose of the study was to compare two different MBTI personality types by evaluating the influence of perceived risk on brand and store loyalty and purchase intention. 340 questionnaires were used for the analysis. For statistical analysis, SPSS 20.0 and AMOS 20.0 were performed, and frequency tests, reliability analyses and Structural Equation Modeling were used. The results of SEM analysis, confirmed that one question of brand loyalty and one question of store loyalty were inappropriate for this study. Thus, these two questions were removed and the research model was modified. To determine the goodness of fit of the research model, convergent validity was tested. Most items fell into the goodness of fit, and the average coefficient was fulfilled. According to the results of a path coefficient analysis for the Judging type, perceived risk has a significant influence on brand loyalty and brand loyalty also affected store loyalty. Furthermore, brand loyalty and store loyalty have a significant effect on purchase intentions, but perceived risk did not affect brand loyalty for the Perceiving type. Brand loyalty influences store loyalty and purchase intentions, but store loyalty did not influence purchase intentions. As a result of this study, it is concluded that considering consumers' personality types is critical to developing strategies that enhance brand loyalty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.145-156
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• 2004

This study is regarding closed and open forms, which have relatively high recognition among visual perception phenomena in costumes. In particular, this study reviewed closeness and openness of ethnic look, which is a representative open costume. Closed form can be summarized as simple and clear silhouette, conspicuous differentiation from the background, simple construction of the costume and colors with low brightness and clearness. It Is modern, functional, rational and modest. On the other hand, open form can be summarized as complicated and inconspicuous edge line, complicated inner shape and colors with high brightness, high clearness and vividness. It includes concepts of pleasure, entertainment, joy, eroticism, rebel and resistance. Modern costumes have been simplified for a long time and they have functional and closed characteristics in their shape, structure and form. On the other hand, modern open form costumes are usually found in sub-cultural styles such as punk, hippie, kitsch and vintage, and some ethnic looks. Following is a summary of the characteristics of open form shown in the ethnic look. 1. The shape, structure of costumes, hair accessories, lace, ruffle and ornaments are complicated and irregular. 2. The silhouette is inconspicuous because of ambiguity between backgrounds and ABC (Apparel-Body-Construct) or the use of see-through materials. 3. It makes complicated visual shapes because it does not have a single type but is composed of various clothing items together. 4. It gives complex feelings by matching various colors or more than two different fabrics. 5. It looks like the open type because of the complex patterns shown in the costumes.