• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.185-203
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• 2021

The aim of this study was to reveal the modern succession and reinterpretation of brand identity through the case of Balenciaga design presented by Demna Gvasalia through a review of the literature, design collection, and design review analysis. The design collection analysis was conducted from 2016 F/W to 2020 F/W, when Demna Gvasalia commenced responsibility for the Balenciaga collection. A total of 12 articles from overseas fashion magazines and newspapers were analyzed. A modern reinterpretation of Demna Gvasalia's Balenciaga design is as follows. First, he introduced luxury mode to reflect a sense of the times and introduced luxury street looks based on street and sports sensibilities, showing various styles without specific concepts. Second, by sharing universal sensibilities based on pragmatism, he proposed an easy-to-wear outfit for daily life to demonstrate the everydayness of fashion. Third, as a new exploration of traditional structural beauty, the design of Cristobal Balenciaga was reinterpreted through the conversion of items, overlapping outfits, and the introduction of high-tech technologies. Fourth, by taking a conceptual approach to fashion, he has renewed the spirit of experimentation and modernity shown by Cristobal Balenciaga. Fifth, with the presentation of a new icon, new styles of sneakers such as Triple S and Speed Runner are presented as new icons. He inherited the original mindset and creative approach of the house's founder, Cristobal Balenciaga, and reinterpreted it from a contemporary street sensibility and pragmatic perspective.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.87-102
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to consider effective digital marketing strategies through analysis of luxury fashion brands. This study conducted both quantitative analysis and case studies of the brands Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Burberry, and Chanel. To measure the brand image of the luxury fashion brands, the survey was distributed to Millennials, and total of 277 responses were used for the final analysis by using SPSS 25.0 statistical program. Other than survey, this paper analyzed digital marketing strategies of luxury fashion brands through brand-related papers, website and social media of each brand, Samsung Designnet's database, and news posted on search engines. The results of this study are as follows: First, according to the result of examining brand image of luxury fashion brands, there was no significant difference between brands, except Gucci. Second, this study analyzed each luxury fashion brand to understand the characteristics of digital marketing, and common characteristics were identified. Third, by analyzing the brand image and digital marketing strategies of luxury fashion brands, it was confirmed that Gucci's brand image and digital marketing strategies were consistent, while there was a difference between Burberry's brand image and digital marketing strategy. Therefore, this article proposes the following digital marketing strategies that are suitable for luxury fashion brands. First, is the connection of on/offline channels. Second, is the use of AI technology. Third, is a blockchain-based platform.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.309-314
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• 2021

Disney animation can be said to be part of American culture and art. With the changes in American society and culture, we can see the changes in the personality and social status of female characters in Disney animation. Especially in the Disney animation works published after 2000, many works showing equality in the social abilities and status of women and men have been published. In this study, the characteristics of female characters of the 20th century and the 21st century is compared and analyzed the characters of Elsa and Anna, who expressed the female image in a metaphorical way of 'Frozen 2'. And studied the characteristics and meanings of clothing and colorful shapes. This paper reveals the design elements needed to construct a gender-equality image of female characters, and hopes that it will become a useful research material for the animation industry and academia in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.716-726
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• 2020

This study presents methods and alternative examples for fashion brands to effectively use video-based communication channels to form brand identity that analyzes the definition, status and type of YouTube channel fashion films as well as enables the ability to derive brand identity characteristics. Literature studies focused on Christian Dior's official website and related previous studies. The temporal range of the case studies was from October 7, 2010, the date when the first fashion film was uploaded to current Christian Dior YouTube to July 17, 2020 (the survey date), and there are a total of 550 subjects for quantitative analysis. The succession of the couture spirit means that Christian Dior's craftsmanship was created and passed down by Musée Christian Dior to act as a contemporary key element of brand identity. The iconic expression of femininity is Dior's core design philosophy that began when the woman image of a new era was presented through a new look, and Dior's femininity means a woman that reflects the character of the times as is interpreted as her own personality from the perspective of modernism through the creative directors of future generations. The brand's core identity code 'Miss Dior' expresses the brand's vision and eternity through perfume as well as targets Z generation male consumers through an emotional approach based on forms that used emotional images such as movie-type films.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.862-872
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• 2020

This study explores the effects of facemasks on respiratory, thermoregulatory, cardiovascular responses during exercise on a treadmill and at rest. Five male subjects (25.8 ± 0.8 y, 171.8 ± 9.2 cm in height, 79.8 ± 28.1 kg in weight) participated in the following five experimental conditions: no mask, KF80, KF94, KF99, and N95. Inhalation resistance was ranked as KF80 < KF94 < N95 < KF99 and dead space inside a mask was ranked as KF80 = KF94 < N95 < KF99. The surface area covered by a mask was on average 1.1% of the total body surface area. The results showed no significant differences in body core temperature, oxygen consumption (VO2), carbon dioxide production (VCO2), heart rate or subjective perception among the five experimental conditions; however, cheek temperature, respiratory ventilation and blood pressure were greater for KF80 or KF94 conditions when compared to KF99 or N95 conditions (p<0.05). The differences among mask conditions are attributed to the dead space or specific designs (cup type vs pleats type) rather than the filtration level. In addition, the results suggest that improving mask design can help mitigate respiratory resistance from increased filtration.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.770-780
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to classify customer experience components using Bernd H. Schmitt's Strategic Experiential Modules and explore the relevance between fashion lifestyle and customer experience components. A survey was conducted on 400 adults between the ages of 20s to 50s who had experience in sportswear stores. The results obtained are as follows. First, according to fashion lifestyle, the respondents were divided into an individuality-valued pragmatic group, a trend-oriented brand-seeking group, a fashion-interested group, and a conservative pragmatic group. Second, customer experience components were divided into sensory experience, emotional experience, cognitive experience, behavioral experience, and relational experience. Third, on analyzing the relationship between customer experience and fashion lifestyle, it was found that a fashion-interested group has the highest value in all experiences; therefore, it can be considered that the higher the interest in fashion, the more important is the customer experience. On the other hand, the conservative pragmatic group represented generally smaller values than the other three groups in all customer experiences. Fourth, there were significant differences in the customer experience components that were considered to be important depending on the fashion lifestyle type. An individuality-valued pragmatic group valued cognitive experiences, a fashion-interested group valued all experiences, and a conservative pragmatic group showed low scores in all customer experiences. The results of this study will allow companies to build more customer-friendly experiences and enable consumers to engage in satisfactory purchasing activities through better customer experiences.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.229-240
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• 2022

This study explores the effect of anthropomorphism on fashion chatbot reliability, mediated by perceived intelligence and cognitive evaluation. The moderating effects of individuals' need for human interaction between chatbot anthropomorphism and perceived intelligence, cognitive evaluation, and chatbot reliability are also explored. Participants, who were recruited through the online research firm, responded to questions after watching a video clip showing a conversation with a fashion chatbot on a mobile screen. The data were collected through Mturk, a crowdsourcing platform with an online research panel. All responses (N = 212) were analyzed using SPSS 26.0 for the descriptive statistics, frequency analysis, reliability analysis, exploratory factor analysis, and PROCESS procedure. The results demonstrate that chatbot anthropomorphism increases chatbot reliability, and this is mediated by chatbot intelligence. Although chatbot anthropomorphism increases cognitive evaluation, the effect of cognitive evaluation on chatbot reliability is not significant; thereby, the effect of chatbot anthropomorphism on chatbot reliability is not mediated by the cognitive evaluation. The direct effect of anthropomorphism on chatbot reliability is also moderated by individuals' need for human interaction. For participants with a high need for human interaction, chatbot anthropomorphism increases chatbot reliability; however, anthropomorphism does not significantly affect chatbot reliability for participants with a low need for human interaction. The study's findings contribute to expanding the literature on consumers' new technology acceptance by testing the antecedents affecting service reliability.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.59-69
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• 2022

Vyshyvanka, the embroidered folk costume shirt of Ukraine, originated during the early reign of the Slavs, and currently, it is also called Ukrainian embroidery. In cases of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements, it is necessary to research formative characteristics for expanding the visual aspect through the diversification of techniques, but also the aspect of the psychological meaning to Ukrainians. This study aims to consider Vyshyvanka as a unique embroidery technique, and also analyze the formative characteristics expressed in apparel elements. The study of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements can present meaning to understanding the Ukrainian fashion. The image materials for the analysis of Vyshyvanka design, included work photos contained in literary materials and foreign online visual materials. The results of formatively analyzing the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel are as follows. First, the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements held an incantatory meaning, protecting wearers from getting easily invaded by evil spirits. Second, the Vyshyvanka patterns utilized symbolism that implied the incantatory meaning. Third, a single color was used for the embroidery. Lastly, materials like cotton, that are easy to embroider, were mostly used. The formative characteristics of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements implied the community spirit, nature worship, and folk beliefs. As an attempt to understand the Ukrainian fashion, this study is significant in the aspect of expanding, widely utilizing, and expanding the range of understanding of Ukrainian fashion. Therefore, there should be more active researches on Ukrainian fashion, so Vyshyvanka can be more widely used as a design element.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.95-107
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• 2022

In reality, the distinction between the Korean traditional culture and the cultures of other countries is at a delicate boundary. Additionally in the wake of the recent socio-cultural confrontation between Korea and China, it has become necessary to establish the foundation and area of Korean traditional culture and to actively utilize the importance of improving awareness of Korean traditional culture. To reorganize the reckless use of the gold foil pattern shown in the rental hanbok, data on the museum's collection of gold leaf patterns were collected and analyzed. Based on the gold foil, Gilsang characters such as Phoenix pattern, Crane pattern, Bat pattern, Flower pattern, Fruit pattern and recovery advice were extracted through references. The traditional gold foil pattern was reconstructed and relocated to design the gold leaf patch. Based on the collection and analysis of the museum's relics, the Wonsam & Daedae, Dangeui, Sranchima, Sagyusam, Jeonbok, Bokgun, and Daenggi were produced. Therefore, we present the possibility of producing gold foil and modern methods for producing gold foil using laser cutting techniques that can express refinement and complexity well, and gold foil thermal transfer paper with retouchable effects. Additionally, we would like to reflect upon the practicality and the convenience to modern people by considering the complexity and hassle of the traditional gold foil production process, and the disadvantages of processes that require relatively longer time. It intends to help revitalize the market of Korean traditional clothing and fashion products.