• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.202-209
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• 2018

This study examined thermo-physiological responses according to the design change of construction site working clothes (control (C) working clothes; prototype (P) working clothes). We measured rectal temperature, skin temperature, micro-climate within the clothes and sweat rate. In the evaluation of physiological functionality, based on pattern improvement in working clothes, P working clothes showed significantly lower rectal temperatures, trunk and thigh skin temperatures than C working clothes. It is preferable that rectal temperature should be kept low during work that is not favorable to an increase in body temperature. P working clothes were more physiologically functional than C working clothes. In addition, P working clothes showed significantly lower temperatures in the trunk and thigh parts in a micro climate temperature. We could explain that the side seam zipper on the pants and the gusset on armpit parts create an air permeability effect of lowering the temperature of micro-climate. Aggressive ventilation through the slit of the garment is an important factor for the restoration of the physiological function of the worker at rest between work. Sweat rate showed a higher level in C working clothes than P working clothes. When working in a hot environment, workwear needs to be designed so that the worker is not exposed to thermal stress. Therefore, it was evaluated that the P work clothes used in this study alleviated the physiological burdens of heat.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.209-213
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• 2006

The 3-D information is useful as basic data which has been utilized in the development of simulating technology as fit-simulation. The experiment is designed to take some useful data on the variant shapes which contribute in simulating the adaptability of the clothes. The general figure of the clothes are made after the figure of the basic standing posture of the human body. The shape of the clothes fits with kinetic characteristic of the human body as the form of the clothes gets twisted, the ease of the clothes changes, and the clothes itself expands. We studied the dressed shapes of blouse according to two types of the arm movement(basic posture and reach forward) and three types of clothes(foundation, blouse with short sleeves and sleeveless) in the sit-down-posture. We accomplished some experimental data on three-dimensional measurement of the dressing shapes using TDS-3100 3-D scanner made in Japan PULSTECH. It is considered that the variant of shapes and distribution of gaps in the dressed shapes of blouse are determined by the adaptability of clothes made in arm movement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.37-48
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• 2009

This paper summarized the forming, structure and management of the Ui-Jeon(衣廛) in Joseon Dynasty, considered the change of the commercial power of the Ui-Jeon in the $18{\sim}19th$ centuries. The Ui-Jeon was established the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. The Ui-Jeon merchants organized the association named Dojung(都中) and were in business with facilities like Haenrang(行廊) and Doga(都家). The Ui-Jeon was mid-sized Si-Jeon, the licensed shop(市廛). The Ui-Jeon held the monopoly of clothes. The Ui-Jeon merchants sold and bought old clothes, sold new clothes, lent the wedding dress for a bridegroom. The Ui-Jeon paid taxes and supplied clothes, goods and sewing labor for the marriage, funeral ceremonies of the royal family. The commercial power of the Ui-Jeon was threatened by free merchants(私商) named old clothes mercants(破衣商). Finally the Ui-Jeon merchants lost the exclusive right to clothes in 1791. After that, the Ui-Jeon merchanrs appealed to the government to give them the monopoly. The Ui-Jeon merchants regained the sole right to sell Ju-ui(紬衣), one item only, but it was temporary. Separately The Ui-Jeon merchants acquired the rights to collect the sub-taxes(分稅) from free merchants.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.1-11
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• 2009

This study was intended to look into the actual status of using their own traditional clothes, by Korean and Japanese female college students, and to compare the differences of their perceptions about the traditional clothes of their own and the other countries, and thus to present the ways beneficial for Korean female college students to establish their positive recognition toward traditional clothes. For the study, the questionnaire method was used, by which a total of 375 sheets was collected; Frequency analysis and t-test were conducted with a SPSS 12.0 statistic program. The findings were as follows; Korean female college students, in comparison with their Japanese counterparts, owned less traditional clothes suitable and wearable for their body, and so they had a less number of wearing and renting experiences. In addition, they indicated a low level of realization about the suitability of traditional clothes to the wearers in their 10's, 20's and 30's. While they thought highly of their traditional clothes in the item of 'pride,' they had a low level of recognition in the item of 'knowledge,' and they considered the traditional clothes to be inconvenient. Korean college students revealed a lower level of favorable interest in the other country, but they had a higher level of evaluation for the items of 'design applicability' and 'popularity' than the Japanese college students did.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.63-74
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• 2020

Modern clothes are part of formative arts and express experimentation and originality. This tendency is especially prominent in structural fashion. This study set out to analyze structural fashion in various aspects, examining and analyzing the expressive and formative characteristics of Deformation and contribute to the development of creative fashion design. The approach of peer debriefing was used with three fashion experts to identify structural clothes in the women's haute couture collections from a total of 24 seasons from S/S of 2008 to F/W of 2019. The clothes with Deformation characteristics were then identified to analyze expressive and formative characteristics. The expressive characteristics of Deformation in structural clothes were exaggeration, distortion, and recombination. Exaggeration was expressed with exaggerated sizes, forms, and excessive use. Distortion was expressed with distorted forms and functions and through optical illusions. Recombination was expressed with the recombination of forms and roles. The formative characteristics of Deformation were maximum, playfulness, and unfamiliarity. The study connected the expressive characteristics to the formative ones and examined them simultaneously, finding that "distortion" and "playfulness" represented the expressive and formative characteristics, respectively. The characteristics of Deformation are expressed in various ways in structural fashion. If they are considered, they will make valuable contributions to creative ideas.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.140-151
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• 2013

In order to investigate the mechanical properties of working clothes materials considering industrial settings, the test weaving materials were compared with the existing materials depending on the season. The material design of the test fabrics were changed through fineness, composition, density of materials then subsequently treated with functional finish. As a result of evaluation of the forms according to KES-FB system, Koshi was deduced, and Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the test weaving materials became flexible, surface became smoother, elasticity and volume characteristics indicated to have been improved. Consequently, the THV value of working clothes materials for test weaving was increased compared to existing materials which indicated improved result of the total hand value. Specially, the winter cloth material indicated improved drape characteristics and dimensional characteristics, showed improved liveliness as being compressed softly.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.67-86
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• 1992

The author distributed the questionaires which ask the idea of the purchase of children's clothes in order to help the emotinal development of children and to raise demostic economy. 89% of those who answered realized the necessity of home sewing. Because of the lack of sewing ability(66%), the author made comparatively easy patterns such as blouses for summer, skirts, short pants and one-piece dresses. To populrize these patterns, the aother used the measurements of body-measurement which were made by Korea Institute of Standard. The author studied the patterns and choice of patterns according to growing body. The author tested the clothes worn and visual evaluation for fitness of the patterns. The results are as follows: First; The author developed basic pattern 1 and 2 and applied to design A, B and C. Second: For every design, the author made patterns fit to the children. Third: According to age, the author curtailed or enlarged patterns. Lastly: The author tried to reduce living expenses through making children's clothes using the sewing machine and supress over-consumption and lead the people toward normal economic life.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.125-136
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• 2018

This study classified and analyzed the assignments for the Hanbok skill contests between 1998 and 2017 so that the Korean hanbok can be properly passed down. this study proposes a variety of useful values for the Hanbok culture industry by providing basic data on various Hanbok making techniques to the Hanbok artisan. The results of the analysis of 39 assignments for the Hanbok skill contest are as follows. Firstly, The 20 assignments presented in the Local Skills Competitions consisted of 13 tasks (65%) in formal wear and 7 tasks (35%) in casual wear. Formal wear is mainly comprised of men's and children's wear (85.7%). There are Pungcha Baji, Sagusam, Kkachi Durumagi, Jeonbok & Bokgeon, Durumagi, and others on the formal wear of men'schildren's wear. In casual wear, 66.7% of women's wear such as scarves, skirts, jeogori, Hwejang Jeogori & chima were on the list of assignments. Secondly, All of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were in adult suits. Thirteen tasks (68.4%) were in formal wear and 6 tasks (31.6%) were in casual wear. Nine out of the 13 formal wear tasks (69.2%) were men's clothes. In 6 assignments of the casual wear, men's and women's clothes were presented three times each. Formal wear that had many assignments was the men's Chulik, which was presented three times in 2006, 2008 and 2016. Thirdly, Eighteen (90%) of the 20 assignments presented at the Local Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and the remaining 2 (10%) were for unlined clothes. Eleven tasks (57.9%) out of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and 8 tasks (42.1%) were for unlined clothes.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.127-136
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• 2010

This research subdivided the groups of baby clothes purchasers by consumer value factors in order to study clothing behavior by the value group of baby clothes purchasers and to examine differences in shopping propensity, pursuit benefits, evaluation criteria, and utilization of information sources depending on the value groups 1. A total of three factors - the pursuit of a stable life, the pursuit of achievement, and the pursuit of pleasure - were derived by conducting a factor analysis on the value dimensions of baby clothes purchasers. The value types of baby clothes purchasers were classified into three groups - the group of the pursuit of achievement, the group of the pursuit of stability and pleasure, and the passive group as the result of conducting cluster analysis on the basis of three types of personal value factors. 2. In the difference of shopping propensity by the value group, the group of the pursuit of achievement and the group of the pursuit of stability and pleasure were found to be the group having economical shopping propensity. In the difference of pursuit benefits by the value group, the passive group appeared to be the group in pursuit of fashion, and it could be seen that the group of the pursuit of achievement and the group of the pursuit of stability and pleasure were highly interested in the pursuit of individuality and practicality. 3. In the evaluation criteria of clothes by the value group of baby clothes purchasers, the group of the pursuit of achievement was found to consider physical criteria as important evaluation criteria, and the group of the pursuit of stability and pleasure was found to consider aesthetic criteria as important evaluation criteria. In the utilization of information sources by the value group of baby clothes purchasers, the passive group was found to be influenced most by market-oriented information sources.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.34
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• pp.209-223
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• 1997

Religion has originated with mankind has developed with mankind and the ap-pearance of Christianity has made a greater contribution to forming the basis of European civilization than any other event. In the Middle Ages in succession to the Roman Ages the foundation of society was so laid centering around Christianity that the garments of religion leaders had greatly affected clothes of the common people as well as political economy. In this view-point it has an educational significance to study vestment of the time when Christianity was prevailing value of society. Thefore this study has tried to examine Catholic ceremonial clothes revolving around the Middle Ages when Christianity had been propagated and it has treated of the clothes of Catholic to have produced a great effect on the culture of the Middle Ages, The method of this study was to inquire into the definition and history of Catholic clothes through the first data of the real-thing data from the museums and the sec-ond of the literature data and photo sam-ples that show the application of above said elements to modern fashion. Results are eight pieces of work: four pieces of Computer Simulation and four pieces of the real-thing production to represent the image found in Catholic ceremonial clothes. The results of the study are as follows. First it has been elicited to be able to satisfy the costume aeshtics that modern society requires introducing brilliance and esthetic elements for these patterns to have by applying the ones expressed in the cere-monial clothes. Second it has been found to be able to make a fashion design with the modern style supported by history by making a proper mixture of the simple silhouette and a luxurious decoration shown in Catholic ceremonial clothes. Third it has been presented to be able to serve in the worldly area if even a religious motive get out of in the area of a solemn image and it is applied to a modern fash-ion.