This study purposed to examine Korean people's white clothes custom historically and to explain the aesthetic consciousness latent in the custom. Korean people preferred white clothes, even up to foreigners called them White-clad folk. Not only as in old historical literatures, but also in Soo-suh, Shin-Dang-suh including Sam-Kuk-Ji in China, white clothes were a real symbol to Korean people, ranging chronically far back to the age of ancient tribal countries, Sam-Kuk Period through Koryo Dynasty and even to modern age near the end of Chosun Dynasty, wearing with pleasure regardless of age, sex or social position. Even King himself in Koryo Dynasty is said to have worn white clothes when he was out of official hours. During the Koryo and Chosun Dynasty, white clothes were sometimes prohibited for various reasons including conflicts with the theories of yin-yang and the five elements but such regulations were not effective. To Korean people, white clothes were ordinary people's everyday dress as well as noble people's plain suits, saints' uniforms with religious meanings, ceremonial costumes, funeral garments, etc. The various uses show that white clothes have been worn by many people. The unique custom that a People have worn white clothes consistently for such a long time may contain very deep symbolic meanings representing the people's sentiments and spirits. The present study understood that the meanings come from religious sacredness, magical wish for brightness, the pursuit of purity originating from the people's national traits, assimilation with nature and the will to attain whole ascetic personality. Aesthetic attitudes based on aesthetic values summed up as sacredness, brightness, purity, assimilation with nature, asceticism, etc. are the aesthetic consciousness pursued by Koreans through their white clothes. For Koreans, white color is the origin of their color sense coming from primitive religions such as worshipping the sun and the heaven. In this way, Korean people's preference for white clothes began with primitive religions, was mixed with various social, cultural and religious influences and finally was settled as their durable spirit, symbol and beauty.
This study intended to propose a guideline designed to secure safety by developing a functional color design for the color of the ordinary working clothes worn in the actual industrial settings of the machine industry in national industrial complexes in Korea. For this, a total of 6 sets of actual working clothes were produced for test, using 2-color arrangements with blue, of varying brightness and chroma for top and bottom, in relation to the visibility proven in preceding studies and evaluated in the machine industry. Blue was suggested the best proper color for machine industry by previous studies. For the material of working clothes, a total of 111 swatches were collected from the Dongdaemoon Fabric Market, and they were analyzed for color values. A total of 6 materials were used to produce working clothes for testing, which represented high brightness, medium brightness, low brightness, high chroma, medium chroma, and low chroma. Clothes were tried at the industrial settings for machine industry in a national industrial complex located in Gyeongsangnam-do and the expert satisfaction evaluation was performed based on items related with safety. As a result, higher satisfaction was shown when the brightness difference of top and bottom clothes was greater, and for chroma, relatively higher satisfaction appeared when the chroma of both top and bottom clothes was high. To secure satisfaction for both brightness and chroma, it is possible to deduce that the 2-color arrangement using the strong tone with high brightness and high chroma and the dark tone with somewhat low brightness and high chroma would be effective. Top and bottom clothes in the same color with high chroma had high visibility but had somewhat low evaluation for harmonious arrangements. This indicated that the arrangement of vivid colors for top-bottom clothes is inappropriate.
To investigate the actual distribution condition and clothing construction factors of the working clothes supplied to the Changwon national industrial complex, 5 major companies in machinery, automotive, industrial engineering, shipbuilding and rolling stock in the industrial complex located in Gyeongsangnam-Do were selected. The questionnaire designed for the research consisted of working clothes distribution policies in manufacturing industry and the actual conditions of the design facts, repair and maintenance of the working clothes, etc. The analysis of the clothing construction factors of the working clothes provided by 5 respondent companies were conducted in parallel. The results derived from the study were as follows: The basic types of working clothes were the blouson jacket and straight pants; safety equipments for manufacture were safety helmets, gloves, snickers, goggles, masks, ear caps, wristlets, leggings, apron, etc. The size-charts adopted by the participant companies were the small-medium-large and cm/inch measurement size systems. To solve wearer's dissatisfaction with the garment fit, certain clothing construction factors were used, e.g. strap bands and the elastic band on a waist band. The types of fabrics used for the working clothes were mainly polyester/cotton and polyester/rayon blended ones. Moreover, to provide with more air permeability to wearers, the warp knit material was used to construct the lining and the armpit or back bodice slits. Lock, two-thread chain, safety, overedge stitches were applied with flat, lap felled, French, superimposed, lapped, bound and edge finishing seams to construct the working clothes selected.
As movies and dramas which show traditional clothes and fusion clothes are getting popular these days, lot of people are paying attention to these dress and ornaments. And as for the domestic collections which seem to reflect this trend, various fusion style clothes are getting widely adopted by people. Therefore, this study analyzed and considered the clothes designs when the country started to open itself to other countries, by selecting a movie titled "YMCA baseball team", a movie to ascertain vigorous historical verification, and by conducting the prior study and using the DVD capture program. This study is meaningful in that based on the comparison study on the costumes, it clarifies the degree of costumes(clothes) acceptance at the point of nation's opening to other countries, which is the source of fusion style, and further shed light on the role that the movie costumes will play. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, through the theoretical background it can be known that when the country opened itself to outside world the dress and ornaments of the time was adopted in a top-down way, namely, first adopted by the royal family and the upper class, which could have easy access to the western civilization and institutions, and then the low class later. Second, in the movie titled 'YMCA baseball team' the costumes were designed through the strict and thorough historic verification, and it can be confirmed that various dress and ornaments adopted at the time of nation's opening to the outside world centered around the clothes design for new women. Third, 'YMCA baseball team is evaluated as a movie that reproduces that time well and as a media that provides an effective clue to the dress and ornaments adopted by the public when the country opened itself to the outside world.
This study is aimed to better understand the lifestyle and fashion trend of Korea in 1954 and 1955, a period right after the Korean War. The study examined "The Journey of Duty", which was a color slide film of Seoul and Suwon made by a US soldier stationed in Korea during that time, as well as various documents. The films are assumed to be outcomes of the US Army wanting to record the situation in Korea, and the study was able to use 110 of the slides to examine the fashion trend of the times. There are three noticeable trends shown on "The Journey of duty". Koreans in western clothes, women wearing work pants called Momppae, and black color being in fashion. Most of the men and the children either wore only western clothes or western clothes with the Hanbok. But women rarely wore western-style clothing, such as blouse with skirt. They usually wore Hanbok or wore reformed Hanbok. The work pants, Momppae, becoming an everyday wear is the most unique finding from the slides. Women either wore just the pants or over the traditional Korean skirt. Black-colored clothes were in fashion. This color first spread after the Costume Reform Movement in the 1920s' and the prohibition of white robe. The wearing of white clothes did increase after the Korean liberation in 1945, as national spirit was promoted. However, many people still wore black due to economic reasons, as we as practical reasons. So the Korean fashion in 1954-1955 was in a transition period, as people were beginning to change their daily wears from traditional Korean costumes to western-styled clothes. The reasons for this change could be attributed to people only having access to western goods, as well as their awareness of western-styled clothes being more practical.
The purpose of this study is to obtain information necessary for the development of patient clothes that can reduce physical fatigue of caregivers by quantitatively measuring the muscle load and fatigue. The patient clothes used in this study can be broken down into three types: A type (back center zipper open suit), B type (top-to bottom separated patient clothes), and C type (front zipper open suit). The EMG measurement sites are as follows: hand muscle (brachioradialis), upper arm (biceps, triceps), shoulder (anterior deltoid, medial deltoid, posterior deltoid, upper trapezius), and waist (erector spinae); additionally, the EMG signals were measured. Through this experiment, muscle load, muscle energy consumption, and muscle fatigue generation tendency were analyzed. The results of the study revealed that the C type patient clothes required the most strength in the muscles of the shoulders, upper arms, hands, and back when being put on and taken off compared to other patient clothes. The A type clothes required a relatively large force in opening the zipper. In terms of muscle energy consumption, B type generally called for more strength when it came to the zip-up and putarmsup motions. With regard to the cover the body and put legs/hips up motions, C type used the highest amount of muscle energy, whereas A type used relatively little energy. In terms of the occurrence of muscle fatigue during the putting on and taking off of the patient's clothing, there was a difference in the area and degree of muscle fatigue in the A, B, and C types, and there was also a tendency for muscle fatigue to occur when performing repetitive movements.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.15
no.3
/
pp.137-156
/
2013
The purpose of this study is to analyze the general status of wearing clothes and clothing purchase of middle-aged women in the 40's to 50's, the patterns and colors of clothes they prefer, clothing preference related with fitting or such, and also complaints. And this paper also divides the middle-aged women into those in the 40's and 50's to analyze how they differ in terms of the apparel brands and fitting they prefer and also the status of wearing clothes. For the research, a survey was performed to 350 women, and the survey data went through x2 and t-test analysis by using SPSS 20.0 to examine significant difference. The results of this study are as follows: the women in the 40's included as the subjects showed a high frequency of clothing purchase from casual brands or SPA brands and regarded design to be important at the clothing purchase. Meanwhile, the women in the 50's indicated a higher frequency of clothing purchase of middle-aged women's apparel brands, outdoor brands, madam clothes, or designer brands and thought activity to be crucial at the clothing purchase. As the women in the 40's and 50's showed difference in the brands they preferred, particularly the fitting indicated difference in terms of dissatisfaction. While those in the 40's preferring and buying young casual showed particularly more fitting problems in the arm-hole girth, upper arm circumference, bust size, and thigh or hip area, those in the 50's indicated fitting problems in the hip circumference or waist measurement. It is expected that this study will be used as foundational data to set up the target age by related apparel companies or develop clothes with great size fitting and design satisfaction.
A case study was conducted on the development of patient clothes designs at the Korea University Medical Center, in order to provide an example of patient clothes designs which meet the hospital identity and the demands of patients and nurses. In this study, we focused on general patient pajamas and one-piece gowns worn in the obstetrics and gynecology department. A scientific and systematic design approach consisting of the following four steps was conducted in the designing process: needs assessment, design direction establishment, design presentation, and final decision. For the first step, focused group interviews and a survey were conducted to identify the needs of the patients and nurses. According to the results of the first step, 3 fabric patterns with light, modern, rhythmic, modest and ordinary images were designed utilizing the university and hospital symbols and logotypes. Fixed forms with realistic and geometric characteristics and colors, including white, yellow, blue, grey, and pink were selected to deliver the preferred image. Each fabric pattern was made in male and female versions of the color sets. The following styles of patient clothes were made with the 3 fabric samples: general patient pajamas with a U-neckline, 9/10-length sleeves and ankle-length pants, a full-length sleeved gown with openings for breast-feeding, and a gown with a deep back-neckline and button fastening. Different sizing systems for males and females were recommended for the production.
Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify transfiguration in fashion design. In order to inquire tile formative style and aesthetic values expressed in transfiguration in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Transfiguration signifies absence of body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Transfiguration is expressed in non-figural forms which implies metaphorical plasticity and abstract extensity. Transfiguration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. Ultimately, this phase also betrays the correspondence between signifiant and $signifi\acute{e}$ in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in transfiguration in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.30
no.4
s.152
/
pp.507-518
/
2006
This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.
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