• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.777-787
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• 2016

This study was carried out in order to provide useful data for planning fabrics of summer eco-friendly fashion products. The fabrics used in this study were four cellulose fibers: cotton, cotton/mulberry blended, flax, and flax/lyocell blended. Dyeing with natural indigo was carried out under three different reducing conditions (i.e., general, eclectic, and eco-friendly) that have different reducing agent and pH levels, and hydrosulfite and glucose were used as a reducing agent. The dye uptake (K/S value) of fabrics dyed with natural indigo by a reducing condition was the highest at 660nm. Regardless of the fabrics, dye uptake was the highest under the general reducing condition and the lowest under the eco-friendly reducing condition. Under different reducing conditions, the dye uptake of natural indigo fabrics with the maximum absorption wavelength indicated a difference. The colorfastness of cellulose fabrics that were dyed with natural indigo had a rate of 4 to 5 except for rubbing fastness, which indicated good colorfastness. Additionally, natural indigo-dyed cotton and flax fabrics had good antibiosis. When the color characteristics of fabrics dyed with natural indigo were measured, all of the three reducing conditions created purple blue (PB) colors, and the color characteristics of dyed fabrics by reducing condition and fabric showed significant differences.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.556-564
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to analyze the effect of the structural properties, the color characteristics and the texture of sight and touch on the tactile preferences for the black fabrics. Male and female university students were asked to evaluate the texture of sight and touch and tactile preference to the nine different black fabrics which were selected on the basis of the previous research results. Data were analyzed by using frequency analysis, mean, factor analysis, t-test, F-test, correlation and regression analysis. The texture of sight and touch for black fabrics was classified into four factors: smoothness, bulkiness, extensibility, firmness. This texture of sight and touch factors showed a significant correlative relationship to the structural properties and color characteristics of the black fabrics. There were significant differences according to black fabrics on the point of texture of sight and touch. The velvet was evaluated the most smooth fabric, while the velvet and fake leather were evaluated the most bulky fabrics. Also, the jersey and lace fabrics were evaluated the most extensible fabrics, while the melton was evaluated as the most firm fabrics. There were significant correlative relationships not only between the structural properties and the texture of sight and touch but also between the color characteristics and the texture for black fabrics. Also, among the structural properties, the color characteristics and the texture of sight and touch of black fabrics, major variable factor of influencing on the tactile preference was turned out to be the texture of sight and touch.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.605-615
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• 2000

This study was carried out to investigate sound characteristics including sound parameters and subjective sensation, and primary hand values related with sound of fabrics for blouse, and furthermore to predict subjective sound sensation with mechanical properties and sound parameters. Sound of specimens was analyzed by FFT. Level pressure of total sound(LPT), loudness(Z), coefficients of autoregressive(AR) functions for fitting the spectra, and sound color factors(ΔL and Δf) were obtained as sound parameters. Primary hand values for women's thin dress were calculated by using KES-FB. Subjective sensation for sound including softness, loudness, sharpness, clearness, roughness, highness, and pleasantness was evaluated by free modulus magnitude estimation. The results were as follows; 1. Fabrics for blouse showed similar spectral shapes to one another in that amplitude values were lower in most ranges of frequencies than fabrics for other uses. 2. It was found that fabrics for blouse were less louder because LPT, loudness(Z), and ARC values were lower than other fabrics. 3. Primary hand values indicated that specimens were soft-touched, flexible, and less crisp. Among primary hands related with sound, Shari values were higher for silk fabrics than for synthetic ones, while the values for Kishimi were similar, 4. Fabrics for blouse were rated more highly for softness, clearness, and pleasantness than for loudness, sharpness. roughness, and highness. Silk fabrics were evaluated more pleasant than synthetic fabrics. 5. Subjective sensation for sound of blouse fabrics were predicted with mechanical properties and physical sound parameters.

• 한국산업융합학회 논문집
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.5-11
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• 2006

This study was performed to determine the effect of structural characteristics of selected wool fabrics on mechanical and thermal properties. 52 wool fabrics, including 18 plain woven fabrics and 34 twill and satin woven fabrics were used as samples woven with various weft density for the study. Several physical characteristics such as mechanical properties, keeping warmth ratio of wool fabrics were measured. Data analyses including 1) analysis of tactile and thermal comfort sensation were performed. the following were obtained from the results: The main factors affecting keeping warmth ratio were thickness and bulk density. The keeping warmth ratio of samples increased with increasing thickness and decreasing bulk density of samples. In addition, coefficient of friction of the samples increased with keeping warmth ratio of samples. The above results show that wearing sensation and comfort properties of fabrics are changed depending on the end-use, and thus, above results can be used to manufacture of fabrics for specific end-use with high comfort properties.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권5호
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• pp.533-544
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to provide practical information to design woolen fabrics in terms of structural and surface characteristics, which produce texture images of fabrics. The relationship among structural, surface characteristics and texture images, and preference and purchase intention were analyzed. To evaluate the texture images of the fabrics subjectively, 7 rank＇s semantic differential scale questionnaires were developed with thirty adjective pairs. Blind and non-blind test were performed with 320 female subjects who were in their 20-30＇s. Commercially available 48 woolen fabrics were used as specimens. Results showed that five factors were obtained: classic, elegance, warmth, natural and casual. These factors were closely related to fiber type, weave type, fabric counts, and finishes.

• 복식
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• 제51권8호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2001

An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosen period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into temple and excavated fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Concerning fabrics collected in temples. satin was most used, followed by twill, tabby, multiply, leno and gauze and clossing fabrics in order. Tabby and silk fabrics used Ju(紬) as their main material. Cho( ) was much more used in fabrics collected in temples than in excavated ones. This indicate that Cho( ), more luxurious than Ju(紬), had divine applications such as covering Buddha s bones of temples. Brilliant, colorful multiply fabrics using goldern and color threads had high effects of ornamenting altar covers, umbrellas, surplices and palanquins. Fabrics held in temples adapted composite designs, in which more than two shapes were used, rather than single ones. Single designs employed plant shapes in most cases. followed by treasures pattern, geometrical, cloud and animal shapes in order. Most composite designs used a combination of animal and plant shapes, followed by plant and geometry, treasures pattern and plant, cloud and animal, and animal, treasures pattern and plant in order. Few excavated fabrics used animal designs while fabrics collected in temples were often designed with shapes of propitious animals such as dragon. Treasures pattern. representing a good omen of Buddhism, was often used sing1y or sometimes compositely with another design.nother design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.151-158
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• 1997

This study was to find out the differences of the characteristics on chitosan from source, the crab and the shrimp. Chitosan was depolymerized in NaBO₃·4H₂O under various reaction time and temperature. 4 Chosen chitosan dissolved in acetic acid and treated to cotton fabrics. The cotton fabrics treated with chitosan showed an exellent antibacterial activity irrespective of the viscosity. Stiffness of the treated cotton fabrics increased 3∼8 times than untreated cotton fabric, it gives harshness to treated cotton fabrics, it gives harshness to treated cotton fabrics like linen. Air permeability of the treated cotton fabrics increased. Stiffness and air permeability are respective to viscosity of the chitosan.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.537-543
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the comfort and fabric hand characteristics of selected lining fabrics made of acetate and polyester. The comfort of the linings was determined by human subjects wearing suit blazers constructed with different lining materials in an environmental chamber controlled at $30.6^{\circ}C$ air temperature and 50% relative humidity. The hand characteristics of the lining fabrics were determined by five trained panelists using standard fabric reference samples. The effect of lining fabrics on the subjects' thermal sensations was not statistically significant. But the subjects voted warmer when wearing the polyester surah lined blazer or the polyester taffeta blazer than wearing the acetate blazers. The results of the subjective comfort evaluation indicated that, in general, the subjects rated the acetate linings significantly less sticky, clammy, damp, and non-absorbent than the polyester linings. Acetate surah was rated a little higher than the other acetate fabrics on these comfort descriptors. The results of the subjective hand evaluation indicated that the lining fabrics rated low on the geometric and mechanical hand characteristics and rated moderate on noise. Acetate surah scored the highest on most of the hand characteristics, whereas, polyester taffeta scored the lowest.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권7호
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• pp.800-808
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• 2003

The sensibilities of cotton fabrics were subjectively evaluated by 126 subjects with 7-points scale questionnaires using the 4-dimensions and 8-axes system, which was composed of adjectives such as ‘masculine-feminine’,‘new-old’,‘casual-classical’, and ‘ambiguous-arranged’. And the sensibilities of cotton fabrics were classified through the cluster analysis. Also, we measured color and physical characteristics, which were variables to have an effect on the sensibilities of cotton fabrics. The sensibilities of cotton fabrics were classified into 8 groups such as ‘feminine, arranged, and classical sensibility’,‘arranged, classical, and old sensibility’,‘feminine sensibility’,‘new, feminine, and ambiguous sensibility’,‘casual and new sensibility’, and ‘ambiguous and old sensibility’The sensibilities of cotton fabrics were more influenced by color characteristics such as value, chroma, and hue than by physical characteristics.

• Conservation and Restoration of Cultural Heritage
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.23-27
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• 2012

Bletilla striata is an important herb that is used as a paste for texture processing, an ingredient in incense and an additive for preserving calligraphic works and paintings. This study evaluated Bletilla striata, which has been used to preserve and manage the textiles and paper. In particular, this study examined the viscosity of a paste made from Bletilla striata, as well as the mechanical characteristics and antibiotic properties of the fabrics treated with the herb. In terms of viscosity, Bletilla striata paste was less sticky than wheat flour paste, meaning that the former can be applied more evenly to sized fabrics. In addition, Bletilla striata paste has high transparence, ensuring little color difference between the fabrics treated and not treated with the paste. Regarding the mechanical characteristics of the fabrics processed using the KES-FB System, the sized fabrics treated with Bletilla striata paste showed a higher flexibility and recovery rate and than those treated with the wheat flour paste, indicating that the former paste can be more effective in making fabrics maintain their original form and shape. Finally, silk fabrics treated with Bletilla striata showed very high antibiosis. This suggests that the paste can be used to develop antibiotic substances that can preserve textiles.