• 복식
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• 제63권1호
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• pp.135-146
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to investigate the meaning and possible shape of Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun(高麗鴉靑雲袖羅質孫) through the details regarding its color, fabric, and pattern in the $13-14^{th}$ century writings and costume relics. Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun was the summer dress coat that government officials wore during the Jisun feast of Yuan, and it was symbolic of the political strategy of Yuan as well as the excellent Goryeo fabric material, but no relics remain. During this period, Achung (dark blue)was the color that was used to dye silk, dress coats of upper class men, and background fabric of the embroidered official patch. And, the term, Yunsu (cloud sleeves), was probably sleeves with cloud pattern. The most typical cloud pattern in the 13 and the $14^{th}$ century was the 'flowing, gathering-headed cloud'. The Ra(silk gauze) weaving technique of Goryeo was developed rapidly in the $12^{th}$ century, and the quality of the Ra in the late Goryeo was good enough to be used for making the official's dress coat in the golden age of Yuan. According to the characteristic of jisun and man's formal-suit style in the Mongolian-Yuan, the possible styles for Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun can be summarized as follows: a basic Mongolian gown with narrow sleeves and deep crossed diagonal opening, a Mongolian gown with waist pleats, the combination of half sleeved gown and long sleeved Mongolian gown. These styles would be made of delicate Goryeo Ra, cloud patterned sleeves, fabrics dyed in dark blue color, and shawl or embroidered patch ornaments for officials of Yuan, which was more simple than materials for Khan's Jisun to avoid rebellions.

• 복식
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• 제61권2호
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• pp.32-46
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• 2011

The study researched the characteristic of helmet and armor reflecting Joseon Dynasty by focusing on the helmet and armor appearing in dramas, the Tear of Dragon and King Sejong, whose common point is the historical background, the early Joseon Dynasty, among the historical dramas, which are manufactured on the basis of historical person or age. First, the helmet and armor appearing in historical drama was reproduced on the basis of historical record depending on age. In the early Joseon Dynasty, helmet was classified into cheomju and wonju and armor was classified into chalgap, swaejagap, gyeongbeongap, dujeonggap and dudumigap. In drama, the Tear of Dragon and King Sejong, for helmet, cheomju and wonju were used and for armor, chalgap, dujeonggap and dudumigap, whose type and manufacture method were similar to that of historical record, were reproduced. Second, the helmet and armor appearing in historical drama searched for function. In drama, the Tear of Dragon, rather than heavy iron, plastic and textile were used and the metal scale inside armor was removed. In drama, King Sejong, the weight of armor was decreased by removing the metal scale inside armor and easy wearing was secured by using velcro. Third, the helmet and armor appearing in historical drama expressed various dramatic interpretations. In drama, the Tear of Dragon, the same color as that of armor was adopted for helmet to provide stable and unified feeling. Visually splendid display was added to armor by matching powerful prime color and glossy metal. In drama, King Sejong, modem sense was added to helmet and armor by actively using pastel color reflecting modem fashion.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.681-695
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• 2014

This study has the purpose to find basic materials for development of kindergarten's uniform and suggest the improvement of its design based on the survey results from Suncheon area in Jeollanam-do of Korea. Such study methods were conducted as literature review, survey with direct visit, interview, and photographing of dresses regarding the kindergarten uniform. The following are research results. First, kindergarten teachers presented a positive opinion about the necessity for children to wear the uniform. In selection of design, they regarded the activity as most important factor. Kindergartens applying active wear compatible as townwear also accounted for 57.1%, which is more than half. Second, the formal wear, in the winter season was found to consist with jacket or knit cardigan, knit vest, shirts, skirts or pants, and necktie. For color, most of them are in dark tone, which need to be brighter. For pattern, they are in plain color, which needs to have various patterns. As to the cloth material, such problems should be improved as warmth retentivity in consideration of seasonal nature, moisture retentivity, breathability, color retentivity when washing, and harmless to human body. Third, active wear is mostly the casual sportswear type. But it has no characteristic unique to kindergarten in design and needs to be altered for differentiated design. Especially, it is simply divided into winter wear and summer wear in kind. Therefore, it is required to have differentiation for seasonal characteristic and diversity in number of item and improvement in terms of cloth material.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권1호
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• pp.17-27
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• 2017

This study evaluated the performance of bedding fabrics consisting of warp (150d/144f, polyester) and weft (polyester, Tencel and cotton MVS blended spun yarn) with blend ratio of weft. We measured electrostatic propensity, moisture properties, pilling properties and mechanical properties of the fabrics for this study. F-P fabric showed outstanding moisture properties and pilling properties. However, tensile properties and electrostatic propensity were relatively inferior to other characteristic values. Significant static electricity may make F-P fabric uncomfortable. F-P7C3 fabric showed outstanding moisture properties and pilling properties. Static electricity may make F-P7C3 fabric uncomfortable; in addition, F-P5C5 fabric showed outstanding moisture properties and pilling properties. Rough and stiff hand feel were expected to increase because tensile properties decreased and surface properties increased. F-C fabric showed outstanding pilling properties and electrostatic propensity. However, it showed inferior moisture control properties. F-P5T4C1 fabric showed outstanding moisture properties, pilling properties and electrostatic propensity. Several properties are outstanding; however, the hand feels are very rough and stiff from bending. The water evaporation and static electricity increased with increasing polyester content. As the content of cotton increased, tensile properties were improved. However, water evaporation and static electricity decreased. The addition of Tencel increased the thickness and compression energy so that it exhibited a soft characteristic upon compression and an excellent moisture control properties, but the surface became somewhat coarse.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.58-73
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to improve of fittness and coverage rate of exporting domestic clothing to China for Chinese Adult Female. For study, It was measured 1381 female women aged between 19 and 50 who resident in Beijing and Shanghai in China. as a sample, 1360 female women was seleted for development of apparel sizing system. As for the method of this study was made of 111 items by indirect measures done during Jun. 23 $\sim$ Aug. 7, 2004. Data analysis were processed by SPSS WIN 10.0 Program was used to for technical statistical analysis, correlation analysis, factor analysis, ANOVA(t-test and F-test), duncan's multiple test. The result was as follows: Chinese Adult women's constitutional components determined by factor analysis, six components could be identified: factor 1:constitutional obesty and width size, factor 2: longistudinal body size, factor 3: shoulder form and size, factor 4: longistudinal upper body size, factor 5: under body size, factor 6: shoulder dropping. According to the Women's Wear Specifications(GB/T 1335.2-1997) by drop, body types of Chinese Adult female was classified into six types, it was Y, A, B, C and Z, D. In order, A type as standard somatotype(49.8%), B type(26.9%), Y type (18.8%), C type(2.9%). Y type had the average height and shoulder, bust girth. They were slimmer in overall terms. A type had a normal obesity and body size in height, shoulder, bust girth. They were average Chinese Women. B type had a smaller then A type. They were more obes and thick waist girth. C type had the highest obesity, the widest shoulder and bust girth, and thick waist girth. The characteristics of each body type following the body type structure factor are Y-type for slender type, A-type for standard type, B-type for slightly large type, and C-type for obese type. For each region, the Beijing area had in the order of A-type, Y-type, B-type and C-type, and the Shanghai area had in the order of A-type, B-type, Y-type and C-type.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.13-24
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• 2019

Adolescence is a transitional stage of physical development which occurs during the period from puberty to adulthood. Going through this period, various parts of an adolescent's body grow at different rates, leading to different body shapes and proportions when compared to adults. Therefore, this study aimed to investigate the body sizes and shapes of junior high school boys from ages 13-15 based on body measurement items that are used as the basis for school uniform designs including jackets, shirts, and pants. For this, the study sought the basic data needed to develop body shapes and school uniform patterns for junior high school boys using the data from the 6th Size Korea Survey (2010). Specifically, it provided basic data for the development of school uniform patterns that fit well through the classification of bodies into particular types. After extracting body shape componen a cluster analysis using ANOVA was performed. According to the factor analysis conducted to determine body shape components, 5 factors were obtained as follows: Factor 1: bulk and horizontal size, Factor 2: body height and length, Factor 3: shoulder shape and length, Factor 4: characteristics of horizontal size, Factor 5: shape of the upper body with a variance of 82.62%. To classify junior high school boys' body shape was determined using various characteristics, and a cluster analysis was performed with the variables obtained by the factor analysis. For this, body shapes were classified into 3 different types: Type 1 accounted for 33.4%, with a total of 463 subjects. This type was a tall, long body individual with the smallest bulk and size. Type 2 accounted for 22.7%, with a total of 315 subjects. This type was large in bulk and horizontal size, but the lowest in height and length. Type 3 accounted for 43.9%, with a total of 610 subjects. This type was close to average in terms of horizontal size, length, and height. To develop well-fitting school uniforms for junior high school students, there should be further studies on changes in body shape and their associated causes. The study results will be available as basic data for comparing branded school uniform patterns for junior high school boys and developing school uniform patterns based on body shape, using 3D virtual clothing simulations.

• Asian Journal for Public Opinion Research
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.352-367
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• 2021

Purpose: This research aims to examine gender preferences for men and women advertising models in Saudi advertisements. Saudi Arabia is known as one of the most gender-segregated society in the world, and it has gender-specific roles, characteristics, and behaviors that are undesirable for the other gender. Methodology: The questionnaire was developed with the help of earlier studies on perceptions towards advertising models and validated by a jury of experts and focus groups. The gender preferences for ten product categories (including automobiles, baby care products, cigarettes, cosmetics for women, fashion, food & beverages, motorcycles, personal care for men, personal care for women, sporting goods) were examined for men and women models. Similarly, three personal preferences characteristics for both genders (face beauty, voice quality, and Islamic dress), two characteristics for women models (body shape, femininity), and two characteristics for men models (height-weight balance, masculinity) were examined for men and women models separately. Finally, a survey was conducted to solicit responses from respondents (N=412). Findings: Results indicated significant gender preferences for gender-specific product categories and typical gender stereotypes in advertising models. Men models were preferred in men-specific products, and women models were required in women-specific products. Some product categories (including personal care for men and sporting goods) were ranked higher for men advertising models, while for women advertising models, other product categories (including personal care for women and cosmetics for women) were ranked higher. Masculinity was ranked highest as the preferred personal characteristic for men advertising models, while voice quality was highest for women advertising models. Finally, there is a significant difference between the preferred personal characteristic for men and women advertising models for three characteristics, including face beauty, Islamic dress, and masculinity and femininity. Implications: Saudi Arabia is a unique society with predominantly unique cultural dominance. Consequently, local culture greatly influences advertisements. It has stereotyped gender roles even in advertisements. This study will establish a baseline for further research on the subject area.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.99-110
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• 2020

In terms of junior high school girls' growth patterns during early adolescence, are unlike childhood when relatively balanced growth patterns are found and high school years in which the normal adult body type is nearly reached, growth patterns displayed are imbalanced and rapid. In fact, diverse size changes by body part growth occur significantly different from individual to individual. Therefore, it has been hard for junior high school students to select their proper size when buying school uniforms. This study attempted to acquire basic data needed to address adolescent body shapes and school uniform patterns for junior high school girls, using the data from the 7th Size Korea Survey (2015). Specifically, it provides basic data for the development of school uniform patterns through the classification of their body into particular types, After extracting body shape components and a cluster analysis using ANOVA. According to a factor analysis conducted to determine body shape components, six factors were obtained: Factor 1: bulk and horizontal size, Factor 2: body height and length, Factor 3: shoulder shape and length, Factor 4: shape of upper body, Factor 5: lower drop, Factor 6: upper drop with a variance of 81.46%. To classify junior high school girls' body shape and determine their characteristics, a cluster analysis was performed with the variables obtained using factor analysis. Body shape was classified into three different types: Type 1 accounted for 30.7%. This was a short, slender body with the smallest bulk, size, and upper drop. Type 2 accounted for 24.9%. This was the largest in bulk and horizontal size and highest and length as well. Type 3 accounted for 44.5%. This type was close to average in terms of horizontal size, length and height, and high drop values. To develop school uniforms with great accuracy and body fit for junior high school students, there should be further studies on changes in body shape and their causes. The study results can serve as basic data for comparing branded school uniform patterns for junior high school girls and developing school uniform patterns based on body shape, using 3D virtual clothing simulations.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.117-129
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• 2022

In terms of junior high school girls' growth patterns during early adolescence, unlike childhood when relatively balanced growth patterns are found and high school years in which the normal adult body type is almost reached, junior high school girls display imbalanced and rapid growth. In fact, diverse size changes by body part occur with a significant difference among individuals. Therefore, it has been difficult for junior high school students to select their exact size when buying a school uniform. This study attempted to develop winter blouse and skirt patterns reflecting the latest comfortable and active school uniform trends, using middle school girl avatars of various body shapes. Skirt and blouse pattern-drawing methods and margins differed. Based on such results, research prototypes were prepared. Then, virtual wear prospective drawings, clothing pressure, and appearance were assessed by body shape. Skirts were assessed with 22 factors while blouses were analyzed with 25 factors. Then, correlations between skirts and blouses were analyzed. According to the analysis, the reason why the dart & pleats position and margin were rated low was confirmed. In a virtual wear assessment on skirt patterns by body shape, a significant difference was found in all categories except for position of the hip circumference, margin of the hips, width of the skirt, and appropriateness of waist line position. The virtual wear assessment on the blouse patterns by body shape also revealed a significant difference in all categories but fit and shape pf the back part. In blouses, a significant difference was observed around shoulders and waist in type 1 and around the belly in type 2. On the contrary, for skirts, a significant difference was found around the hips and waists in type 1 and type 2. Therefore, these factors should be considered in making blouses and skirts. The above results suggested that skirt and blouse patterns should vary by body shape. It is anticipated that there should be further studies comparing brand-name school uniforms for high school girls and school uniforms by body shape.

• 복식
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• 제52권8호
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• pp.55-71
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to identify a basic meaning of humor from the costume expressing cartoon image, to grasp the status of contemporary costume, and also to supply people with a database related to the sphere of costume design. This was done by analyzing and examining humor of the costume expressing cartoon image in post-industrial society. Consequently, the result of this study was summarized as follows; First, humor by parody of Pop Art is recognized as humorous expression that repulsed the main current culture and post-industrial society phenomenon. Second, humor by quotation tends to appear through cartoon character. Costume which quote cartoon character is against Kidult tastes and the pre-existing authoritative prejudices in post-industrial society. Third, humor by bricolage, making bricolage with silhouette, color, pattern item, is recognized as new creation of humor In other words, it is regarded as enlargement of new esthetic consciousness and humor about instrumented gender in post-industrial society. Lastly, humor by deformation expressed itself in deformation of body image of character and cloth silhouette by cartoon image. Deformation of cloth silhouette by cartoon image, being not conscious pre-existing concept of harmony of human and costume, is recognized as humor which have characteristic of play with introduction of new silhouette. In addition to, the result of this study showed that humor expressed in cartoon image of costume has been limited to the works of few designers because of characteristics of fashion designers who made use of popularity as subjects of the works and internal meanings which were related to the characteristics of post-industrial society.