• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.141-155
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• 2004

Chitosan, the natural biodegradable polymer derived from chitin by de- acetylation, has been widely applied to the textile finishing processes for excellent anti-microbial characteristic and handle improvement of fabric. The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of handle when cotton fabric is treated with chitosan-polyurethane mixed solution. The viscosity values of chitosan solutions were 8cps and 50cps, and the wet-pick-up% was maintained at 90%. In case of mixing with water soluble polyurethane, the mixture ratio of chitosan and polyurethane was settled on the solid content ratio of 1:0, 1:0.5, 1:1, 1:2. Also the change of physical properties by neutralization in NaOH solution was studied. The results can be summarized up as follows : 1. Extensibility(EM) and tensile energy(WT) of cotton fabric treated with chitosan are decreased, but bending rigidity(B) is remarkably increased. With the addition of polyurethane, the decrease of EM and WT is weakened and the increase of B is weakened. The case of neutralization is similar to the case of polyurethane addition. 2. By treating fabric with chitosan, FUKURAMI(Fullness and softness) is decreased, but KOSHI(Stiffness), SHARI(Crispness), HARI(Anti-drape Stiff ness) are increased. With the addition of polyurethane, the decrease of FUKURAMI is diminished and the increase of KOSHI, SHARI, HARI are diminished. 3. As the viscosity of chitosan solution increased, the air permeability value increased. The addition of polyurethane decreased the air permeability.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.797-805
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• 2011

This study was carried out to investigate dyeing characteristics of CDP(cation dyeable polyester)/silk knitted fabrics with disperse type cation dyes/acid dyes by one bath dyeing method in comparison with two bath dyeing method in the interests for rationalization of the dyeing process. The apparent color depth(K/S) of the disperse type cation dyes with CDP and that of acid dyes with silk decreased slowly with increasing pH values of dyebath with the exception of sharp decrease at alkali region for CDP. The contamination behavior of CDP by the acid dyes and that of silk by the disperse type cation dyes decreased with progressing of dyeing. The migration ratio(%) of the disperse type cation dyes with CDP is low compared with that of acid dyes with silk. The sediment in mixed dying solution of disperse type cation dyes and acid dyes remarkably less compared with that of regular type cation dyes and acid dyes at $100^{\circ}C$ regardless applying of preventer agent of precipitation. When CDP/silk knitted fabrics was dyed with by with mixtures of disperse type cation dyes/acid dyes one bath or two bath dyeing method, the characteristic of reflectance spectra of CDP components were greatly influenced by disperse type cation dyes and that of silk components by acid dyes. It was confirmed that K/S values of each components of CDP/silk knitted fabrics dyed by one bath dyeing method decreased slightly compared with two bath dyeing method.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.10-21
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• 2018

Kushan dynasty was located in the middle of Silkroad, from the 1st century BC to the second century AD, where it negotiated with various races. Therefore, the culture of the Kushan has multi cultural elements. The purpose of this study is to understand the life of the ancient Silkroad by accessing this characteristic culture of the Kushan through costume analysis. And the results of this study will be used as a basic data for studying the relationship between Korean ancient costumes and Silkroad costume type. As a research method, literature survey and artifacts analysis were performed in parallel. The results of this study are as follows: The basic type of the Kushan costume was a typical nomadic ethnic type with a long tunic and trousers. Tunic was fastened with a belt and straps at the waist, and the lower part of the belt was wider like a skirt. The tunic was divided into two types: open front and closed front. Because Kushan was originally a nomadic people who lived in Central Asia, the nomadic elements of Central Asia remained unchanged in the early costumes of the Kushan, but over time the details of the costumes changed according to the surrounding political situation. When Kushan negotiated with Parthia, the parthian coat was worn by the influence of them. After occupying Greco Bactria, accepting the Greek culture of Bactria, Kushan's costume was supplemented by the external costume element of drapery, which changed the style of the nomadic costume into a elegant style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.100-117
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• 2010

This thesis has three main purposes: first, will show kinds, patterns, types, expression techniques of modern korean women's trimmings by every ten years. Second, it is to trace the effect of each decade on women's Hanbok trimming designs. Third, it will point out factors. that caused the change of modern Korean women's Hanbok trimming design patterns. Henceforth, there comes the result of the research and analysis. Trimming design patterns of modern women's Hanbok can be divided into three categories temporally: The first period of from 1910s to the first half of 1950s saw that design patterns did not changed much from traditional ones. It is because there were many catastrophes such as the invasion of Japanese Empire and Korean War. The compound design had expressed people's wish to earn many sons and babies at the end of Joseon Dynasty. But it turned to wishing luck for individuals affected by individualism and liberalism imported from the west. Realistic designs are the most frequently used and the least lines made up patterns. The second period of from the latter half of 1950s to 1970s saw that women wore their Jeogories and Chimas as suits. Screen printing technique enabled for various design patterns to come out. And the development of textile industry introduced various expression techniques such as making lace, meshing, flocking, burn-out etc cetera. The third period of 1980s saw that Hanbok became a kind of luxurious clothe as people's living standard rose. Hanbok again came into the spotlight, Hanbok designers came forward and their individualities are respected. The characteristic expression technique of grey-dying and geometric design patterns are more frequently used for the simple and modern beauty.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.131-140
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• 2013

Eco-friendly and health-functional clothing is now becoming the target of the worldwide hot trends. The purpose of this study is to develop an eco-friendly textiles to decrease environmental pollution and to be harmless for human health by investigating how the natural chorangak liquid treatment affects the changes of mechanical properties and the hand of silk fabrics according to different treatment conditions. Treatment was varied with various temperatures ($85^{\circ}C$, $90^{\circ}C$, $95^{\circ}C$) for 90 seconds after degumming. The results were as follows: 1) The natural chorangak liquid is the most effective at the ratio of glacial acid 200ml with eggshell 20g minimizing the time limit and sludge reduction. Its treatment of silk fabrics is optimized at $90^{\circ}C$ for 90 seconds with 25% conc. after degumming when considering tenacity and elongation. 2) After the treatment, tenacity and elongation of specimen are increased compared with those of degummed silk fabrics. 3) After analyzing the effect of the treatment on the characteristic values of basic mechanical properties of silk fabrics, mechanical properties (tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface) are overall improved. The properties of thickness and weight are increased as well. 4) Based on the clear analysis on effects of the treatment on the mechanical properties and the hand of silk fabrics, the level of THV was enhanced from good to excellent. Therefore, chorangak liquid can be utilized satisfactorily as a new finishing agent for developing eco-friendly textiles.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.95-113
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• 2006

This study was conducted comparative analysis of juvenile brassiere and adult brassiere to identify the problems of brassieres on the market. The raw data for this study was processed by SPSS 10.1 version(statistical software) and the results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1) The result of comparative analysis of juvenile brassiere and adult brassiere pattern is that each pattern showed no difference. 2) The results of the comparative analysis of juvenile and adult brassiere pattern in wing's length and angle is that even though there are some difference between juvenile and adult in side line inclination of brassiere. there is no setting difference but size of that brassiere. 3) The result of a comparative analysis pattern and cup size measurement of juvenile brassiere and adult brassiere is that even though the adult cup girth and angle is bigger than the juvenile because adults have more protrusive and bigger volume and well developed breast, some case rather the adult's cup angle is smaller than the juvenile as brand. And as we grow up to be a woman, difference of lower breast girth and breast girth are become big while difference of upper breast girth and breast girth are become small for that reason upper cup must be lower and lower cup must be higher but there is almost no difference between adult and juvenile. 4) The result of a comparative analysis of juvenile brassiere and adult brassiere bust point of the pattern is that adult brassiere's distance between bust points 6.12cm, and juvenile's 5.6cm, there are only 0.52cm difference between two products and just 0.4cm, size grading. These results are explained that even though when grow up to be a woman the distance between two bust points become to be long and breast toward out side but brassiere size don't vary with body characteristic.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.115-126
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of older women's torso shapes. The data was collected from the 7th Size Korea, which featured 453 women between the ages of 70-85. A factor analysis was performed of 31 indices, including seventeen based on height and length measurements, eight based on circumference measurements, and six based on torso flattening. The torso shape was determined from seven factors: torso flatness ratio, shape of the side upper torso, vertical size of upper torso, silhouette of the torso, silhouette of the bust and abdomen, shape of the hip, and the vertical size of the back of upper torso. The torso shapes of older women were classified into three types based on the results of the factor analysis. Type 1 is called the large rectangle type. They have the lowest degree of forward bend in the torso, the largest vertical and horizontal size, a round body shape, and the upper torso is gently curved. Type 2 is called the inverted triangle type. They also have a round body shape, but the abdominal size is relatively small compared to the size of the bust, and also have an open and drooping bust, and the biggest degree of forward bend in the torso. Type 3 is called the square type. They are characterized by drooping hips, the smallest vertical and horizontal sizes, and the gentlest curve of the torso.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.1 s.91
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• pp.73-85
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• 2005

According to a rise in leisure time thanks to a five-day workweek system, the population of golf tends to rise day by day as exercise not extreme and doing together with nature, and as a sport with high concentration degree, by virtue of people who have an interest in health care and who strive to enjoy a leisure life. This study targeted the whole male and female golfers who reside in the areas of Seoul and Gyeonggi-do and are now playing golf, carried out sampling, and finally used 485 sheets for analyzing data. The study results were as follows; First, as a result of analyzing the whole lifestyle propensity depending on golfers' gender, it was shown that, as a result of making it type by factor, a male golfer was classified into shopping intention, fashion intention, family intention and tradition intention, and a female golfer was divided into shopping intention, fashion intention, family intention and man-and-woman equality intention. Second, as a result of analyzing a characteristic of gender depending on the standard of selecting goods, it showed the difference between genders as for the standard of selecting goods in case of purchasing golfwear, and it showed the difference in style/design, physique fitness, wearing of a famous golfer, convenience of laundry and management, and functionality, and male golfers were shown to select after seeing the clothes which a famous golfer did wear, compared to female golfers. Also, it could be seen that there was difference depending on the standard of selecting goods and the purchasing propensity in case of buying golfwear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.113-125
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• 2014

Creative thinking requires an ability to draw ideas on the given topic in a given time period with concentration. For this, the development process of design concept on the topic was collected through experiments and interviews targeting 10 fashion education experts and 10 clothing majors. After the analysis, the results are as follows: First of all, divergent thinking was done to find as many ideas and possibilities as possible at the step of expanding the topic by analogy. This showed characteristics of spreading thoughts through the spread of lexicon to professional field knowledge of learned, individual's cultural background, other art fields. Second, abstracted and designed words that are expanded and listed by the topic analogy were specified the topic gradually through the free combination method between lexicons. The sentences made by the combination of lexicons were interpreted through the serial listing method, in which the connection between sentences had the meaning of orderly cause and effect form, and the parallel listing method that treated information at once. Third, the few characteristics of the procedure that visualizing into the specific design are as follows. Firstly, the method to transform image that lexicon has into the one appropriate to the topic, the case that reflects external characteristics of selected designed word, and the case which reflects as the extrinsic expression of personal immanent and tactic desires. This study has its means to propose methods and directions to help create more creative and systematic ideas by analyzing the characteristics that appeared during the process of thinking language-oriented design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.275-294
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• 1996

In fashion there was a move away from the ascetic of the Gothic according to the appear-ance of a new spirit at the beginning of the fourteenth centuries initially in Italy. The new spirit Humanism applied their interest not to the universal but to the individual and particular. The Renaissace costume style based on the Humanism was sharp angled and curvy and had a grotesque silhouette with the exaggerated and tense decorations. The purpose of this study is researching the background led to the balanced costume style characterized by unique details. out of the tastte for luxury and beauty grew a new style known as slashing in which seams were left open and colored linigs thrust through or cuts were made in an entire cos-tume and contrasting material puffed out of the cuts. With the slashes another element was characterized in the high Renaissance cos-tume style that was the use of points or lace to hold a costume together. For the masculint costumes pads became into a fashion and were used for forming the antinatural artificial and bulky silhouettes. The body was distorted and tensed by putting the pads into the sleeves and bodice. The jacket with a full rounded bodice like a bow known as peascod belly and haut de chausses a onion-shaped trunk hose with a codipiece ap-peared and grew one of the most characteristic of Renaissance style. According to these sociological changes the view of the beauty based on the human body and in both of men and women the costume style was changed very much to emphasixed their physical beauty and finally it grew a grotesque style and even more a exposed style that exposed a part of their body. Those backgrounds as were stated above can be said to lead to the appearance of the grotesque style in the Renaissance Age.