• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.45 no.6
• /
• pp.1052-1062
• /
• 2021

This study aims to confirm the possibility of Ultra-Violet (UV)-printed 3D printing materials using thermal polyurethane (TPU) with CMYK colors by applying an eco-friendly UV digital printing process. A UV-printed 3D printing TPU material was prepared with cycles of UV printing and CMYK colors. Dyeability of the 3D TPU samples with cycles of UV printing and CMYK were analyzed for thickness, weight, surface roughness, reflectance, colorimetry, and K/S values. The thickness and weight of 3D-printed TPU samples with cycles of UV printing are increased with overprints from 1 to 5. The surface roughness of 3D-printed TPU samples with increasing UV prints were decreased, meaning that the surface of TPU samples becomes gradually smoother. The reflectance spectra of CMYK UV-printed TPU samples showed the surface reflectance within each characteristic wavelength of CMYK. The 3D-printed TPU samples, subjected to UV printing twice or more, showed low surface reflectance. After examining the L^*a^*b^* of the 3D-printed TPU samples by the cycles of UV printing, the study found that the more UV got printed more than 2 times, the closer the color to each CMYK.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.16 no.3
• /
• pp.577-585
• /
• 2007

This research aimed for 20 latter man whose body shape of torso alters remarkably to develop nipper pattern of running type considered characteristic of body shape of 20 latter man to keep rather balanced body shape against middle age when body shape changes extremely. 1. running type nipper pattern design. Pattern of running, lining and nipper were designed by flattening surface shell. A basis line of running pattern is completed by applying reduction ratio after 3 times of modification & complement based on surface shell. Nipper pattern is designed with design line set by a plaster cast based on running pattern line. Lining pattern is designed with lining design line set by a plaster cast based on running type outside material and nipper pattern. 2. Functional evaluation of research and commercial nipper. Functional inspection through dress test was applied 5point evaluation method and the result of functional inspection on the sight of a wearer is that research nipper(running reduction ratio 15%, nipper reduction ratio 18%) averaged more 4.8point but commercial nipper averaged less 1.8point in the aspect of 20 items such as wear sensibility, motional function and external appearance aesthetic. Research running type nipper scored high in order of motional function, looks of side, back, front and whole and wear sensibility. Functional inspection in the point of view of an observer is that research nipper(running reduction ratio 15%, nipper reduction ratio 18%) averaged over 4.8point and commercial nipper averaged under 1.9point in 17 items of external appearance beauty. Research running type nipper marked high in order of looks of back, whole, front and side.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.4
• /
• pp.83-98
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study is to find out the orientations and characteristic in clothes buying of each age group of elderly women, based on the actual self-image and the ideal self-image of clothing. Grasping the diversity of their clothes' buying orientations will be helpful in making a better merchandise production planning for apparel, and in launching new brands into the market. The study will also provide useful data in developing sales strategies which enable to supply goods that meet consumers' needs and tastes in the quality market, and consequently will help to classify the market. Samples were 488 women of 55 and over, dwelling in Pusan Metropolitan City. The data was analysed by using MANOVA, ANOVA, and the Cronbach's $\alpha$ reliability was also applied. The conclusions based on the theoretical background and the result of questionnaire surveys were as follows: 1. The order of priority of buying orientations based on clothes's actual self-image was 'practicality', 'cautiousness' and 'economical effectiveness' without regard to age. The items that showed the significant differences in 50's were 'cautiousness', 'experimentation', 'fashion-consciousness' and ostentatiouness, and in 70's were 'economical effectiveness', 'experimentation', 'impulsiveness' and 'environmental friendliness', and none in 60's. 2. The order of priority based on clothes' ideal self-image was the same as that of actual one, and there was no significant difference between age groups.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.7 no.3
• /
• pp.167-179
• /
• 2005

Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.2
• /
• pp.15-33
• /
• 2008

Continuity and discontinuity is a relative concept, and there are various categories of the continuity and discontinuity in our circumference. Generally, characteristics of postmodernism including between the difference and the variety have being regarded as a discontinuity. Concept of the continuity includes between the quantitative continuity and the qualitative continuity qualitative continuity has organic characteristic, which encourages creating something permanently through the flowing of the time. Therefore, this thesis has studied like this complex social condition and various relationships expressed in modern fashion focusing on permanently creative movements and behaviors equal to the 'continuance' theory of Herni Bergson and 'continuity' theory of Jill Deleuze. This thesis classifies characteristics of the qualitative continuity into spatiotemporal and spatial continuity, and subdivides into 3 sets: perceptual continuity, spatial continuity, transferring continuity of physical experience, immaterial informational continuity, and fluid continuity with environment. Continuous viewpoint, which accepts the existing elements and allows them to flow liberally, should be present more appropriative thinking direction in explaining the complex situation expressed in the modern fashion, rather than discontinuous viewpoints focused on the only changing moment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.28 no.6
• /
• pp.787-800
• /
• 2020

This study aims to derive the criteria of folding techniques and their characteristics through analysis of literature and previous studies. This will be realized by performing a case study on male fashion design and folding. It will propose diverse directions and data for male fashion design, by making men's jackets using a folding technique. The concept and terms of folding were clarified through examination of existing literature and previous studies. Specifically, four pieces were created with motifs of the four seasons. Among the types of pleats expressed in the works, composition pleats include double ruffles, gathers, and draperies, while processed ones include box pleats, knife pleats, and accordion pleats. This study expresses continuity, fluidity, scalability, and ambiguity through the use of such pleats. The results of the production are as follows. First, in terms of the continuous use of regular and repetitive pleats, a possibility of rich pleats was confirmed because they varied depending on the gap between the pleat and target material. Second, in liquid but irregular pleats, diverse moods were created by the pleat movement. The overlapping of repeated pleats expresses diverse spaces and shapes in a 3D extended silhouette. Third, in pleat classification, ambiguity was confirmed with the use of continuous accordion pleats in the printed gradation fabric. It is anticipated that more diverse and creative designs could be created using more extended techniques in future studies.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.6 no.6
• /
• pp.707-714
• /
• 2004

This study was carried out to research the actual condition of narrator models' wearing uniform, targeting on the narrator models who are being currently active and are from 19-year-old to 30-year-old. A poll was performed through visiting internet circles and spots, and the characteristic of objects, the form of uniform, attitude on uniform, dissatisfaction index on wearing uniform and preference index on wearing uniform were researched. It was carried out from August 18, 2003 to August 31, 2003. In order to perform this study, 161 questionnaires were used in all, and frequency analysis was implemented using SPSS 10.0. The objects of study were composed of female. Those who are from 21-year-old to 25-year-old accounted for 74.5%, and those who have career from 2 years to 3 years accounted for 75.5%. In respect to attitude on wearing uniform, affirmative answers, affirmative answers, such as a sense of belonging, a pride in activity and increase of efficiency, accounted for 68.8%. On the other hand, in respect to a harmonization between uniform and work, just the 39.8-percent showed affirmative reaction. Concerning the functionality of uniform, such as retaining warmth and ventilating, dissatisfaction index showed very high value; it is judged that it should be improved henceforth. Working postures were researched, following the order of standing posture and arm-using posture. In inconvenient actions, bending down and moving arms were orderly pointed out. With regard to the dissatisfaction of size, busts, the length of skirt and waist girth were orderly pointed out. Likewise, considering the parts of which room is required, bust, hip girth and waist girth were orderly pointed out. As to the points that should be bettered, design and functionality were orderly pointed out. In respect to materials of uniform, sweat-absorption material, light material and well-ventilated material were orderly suggested.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
• /
• v.22 no.6
• /
• pp.212-219
• /
• 2013

This study uses a fashion shop facade design to track human gaze, find gaze frequency for gaze time for the gaze points along the path of sight, and expose the importance of facade design and figure out the value through theoretical systematization. Thus, this study employed the measurement method in physiological psychology which is sight-tracking device with eye-tracking to perform effective data evaluation. To find gaze frequency and study the contents to reflect on the facade, precedent study review, and case study of facade design to collect stimulants to be used in eye-tracking experiment were executed. And the eye-tracking experiment which traces the movement of eye[pupil] was performed. As the result of analyzing gaze frequency, The characteristics of such gaze path formation made the characteristics for gaze frequency even clearer. What was characteristic in the analysis result according to 'average value for gaze time' was that only 8 out of 2000 areas showed over 1 second of frequency and, and all other shoed less than 1 second of gaze time. This indicates that human sight endlessly jumps around, and that it 'Stay' where it has interest. This study found the average of the frequency of this 'Stay' in facade design. This study well presents the major points to add value to the design of the space of facade based on scientific measurement/analysis data obtained through visual understanding. Through such, this study is thought to be able to have a positive interaction with marketing by forming a theoretical background bringing utility to purchase environment and assisting in sales increase.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.14 no.5
• /
• pp.128-144
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to define the origin of name 'Watteau gown' which is controversial by analyzing a Watteau gown, represented in the paintings by Jean Antoine Watteau, an artist in the Rococo era, and clarify the shape and composition of a Watteau pleats which characterizes the Watteau gown and the morphological characteristic of the silhouette of the Watteau gown. Theoretical review and empirical research was simultaneously conducted. The theoretical review considered social backgrounds from late 17th century to early 18th century when Watteau actively worked and a background of forming the style of Fete galante. The empirical research was conducted by sampling 106 pieces of costume from Watteau's 65 paintings collected and classifying according to morphological shapes and composition. Based on this result, it is suggested that the Watteau gown was very prevalent as women's costume early in the 18th century. The Watteau gown, robe volante, robe battante, sack gown and robe a la Francaise were developed and modified from one gown which started from the same source in some connection. This study has significant meaning that it defines the origin of Watteau gown and Watteau pleats found in women's costume in the Rococo era. Furthermore this study will contribute to the practical use of costume elements of 18th century which are beautiful and artistic in aesthetics as the source of contemporary fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.26 no.6
• /
• pp.823-835
• /
• 2018

The body is an important object of costume expression, and the reflection of the aesthetics of the body according to age, culture, individual or group determines the form of the costume. In particular, British artist Leigh Bowery provided many designers and celebrities with original design ideas. Leigh Bowery's costumes are related to the carnival concept. Thus, this study analyzed Leigh Bowery's life and works, and examined Michael Bakhtin's grotesque carnivalesque theory. Based on Bakhtin's carnival theory around 100 works by Leigh Bowery, in the form of YouTube videos and DVD clips were analyzed in this study. The results of the analysis Leigh Bowery's body and costume research are as follows. First, this study can define fetishism as a characteristic of costumes such as body suits, harnesses, high-heeled boots, and stockings, that stress the body. Second, the character of the body is not expressed as that of an idealized body, but the fat and ugly aspect are revealed. Third, Leigh Bowery's costumes are characterized by ambiguity. The costumes blur the boundaries between women and men. Fourth, common sense, combined with normal and bizarre, brings out a strong sense of carnival humor with ridiculousness arising from the gap between reality and reality. His performance has had a significant impact on victims of discrimination or unequal treatment in sexual, racial, and age-related situations. This study should inspire many designers through the study of Leigh Bowery's body expression and dress, but it also introduces fashion icons that are not well known in Korea.