• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.3_4
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• pp.310-321
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is clarify the formative characteristic of dance costume design and analyse stage effect based upon the formative factors. Classified design element of dance costumes by line, silhouette, color, material, lighting, and also this based on content analysis method about each formative factor of costumes that showed 10 dance performances which practically be performed and made. And individually interviewed the professional dance composers and dancers who participated in the performances fer objectivity and specialty of this study. The results were as follows; 1. Dance costume contains and harmoniously expresses theme of a dance work, formative characteristic of fashion design, movement and character of the dancers, lighting effect. 2. Korean creative dance costume is effectively expressed with formative factors of traditional costumes and modem sensibility and symbolic expression of image-centered. 3. Costume line is affected by dancer's movement and it's possible to be different effect that the atmosphere or stage effect by the original form of line and the expression method. 4. Costume color is effective to inform that dancer's character and image of a dance work. 5. Costume material is most important to consider that the dancers and the atmosphere and the image of a dance work. 6. Lighting effect can inform various feel of dancer's dance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.47-60
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• 2010

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze various Romantic styles appearing in modern fashion based upon the 'Difference' theory developed by Gilles Deleuze. A new framework for analyzing the changes of dress style based upon the 'Difference' theory derived from Deleuze's theory and from his interpretations of paintings was developed. The characteristics that represent 'difference' in change of dress style are deformation and hybridization. They are derived from the Deleuze's interpretations of 'difference' represented in the paintings by Bacon. The aesthetic values of the Romantic style in the 19th century dress are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. And the formative characteristics of the Romantic style dress are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style that have appeared since 1980s is analyzed according to deformation and hybridization and the results are as follows: first, deformation caused by exaggeration or emphasis in the modern Romantic fashion creates changeability of the form, destruction of the 19th century style, volume, and ornamentation. Second, hybridization by combining heterogeneous characteristic between times and genders (for example, the 19th century and modern times or masculinity and femininity) frees body from the dress and changes the dress silhouettes and ornamentation. Thus totally new and different Romantic style is created. The Romantic style in modern fashion changed into the appropriate style to the modern society under various conditions such as designer's will, postmodernism, changes of femininity and technology. It can be said that this is an example of the Deleuze's 'becoming' theory.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.115-125
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• 2007

A hat is a general term for what human beings wear on their heads in order to protect them from the cold or heat, to be used for ornament, or to symbolize social position. A hat represents the position of a man who wears it, attitude toward the society, and faith for a religion for males. Since men's hats can create their image and uniqueness in casual wear from current fashion items, they are proposed as a fashion accessory item of designers each season. The purpose of this study is to review hats, which are part of costume, in a more analytic method. The research range of this study is hats for men in the upper class in the 17th to 18th centuries from the history of costume when diverse periodic and characteristic costume changes occurred. In the 17th to 18th centuries in the middle of the Chosun Dynasty, changes in costume occurred as the feudal society of the dynasty had been dissolved since the Japanese invasion in 1592. Political power was established in France as the Baroque Age began in the 17th century. Since European costume, especially women's costume led fashion in France, the country represented the age better than any other countries. Aristocratic costume in the Rococo Age of the 18th century was changed to completely different shape of costume after the French Revolution. In this regard, this age was deemed to be the most appropriate for the comparison or costume. Another purpose of this study is to review the common and different features of periodic factors that affect changes in costume by researching the hats of the two countries in the same age in order to understand relation between periodic characteristics and costume throughout history of costume.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.13-27
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to understand the general process from textile design till fashion design and to understand the relation between the body structure by using the x-ray technique. The research method was to see background of the anatomic feature and human skeletal X-ray projection through historical aspect of publications, the Internet, and paper. In terms of production, in order to present a design that takes into account the unique silhouette of the human body without distorting the shape of the human skeleton, X-ray images that were reconstituted using a computer graphic tool (Photoshop CS) were reproduced into the fabric as intense images through the digital Textile Printing technique that is capable of expressing fine and delicate details, and applied into the design. An original design was developed that emphasized the impression of the human body being projected and the shape of the human skeleton realistically expressed in terms of silhouette and detail. The results are as follows: First, Body has a anatomic formative characteristic and its formativeness becomes as a great motive for the artistic expression and thereby it becomes more unique and available for new design expression. Second, Using the 'body frame' as the motive of the research, there's mainly tried to make an unique expression. Third, according to reconstructing human skeletal X-ray projection by using Adobe Photoshop CS2, it can be expressed strong and unique design. Forth, DTP which is being used as an essential technique, expresses the body frame realistically and being used the special type of functional product and silk. Likewise by discovering the diverse formativeness of our body frame and reflecting the sense of humanity into the pieces there's been able to make and develop an unique fashion design. I sincerely hope there is a hug progress in this research in this area.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.595-603
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• 2015

The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-$19^{th}$ century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early $20^{th}$ century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in $20^{th}$-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.81-96
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• 2006

Fashion is very superficial. However, it is expressed through the culture that is a cause of internal change and therefore its contents are defined by the cultural features. In this study, to study the aesthetic properties of the French fashion, the internal fashion contents are defined according to the cultural characteristics of France and based on the definition, the external features are investigated. The cultural characteristic was analyzed based on the reference literatures on the French culture. Based on the cultural characteristics of France, the aesthetical properties of the contemporary French fashion can be analyzed as follows: ${\cdot}$Dualism is the internal contents of the French culture with multiple sources, and it implies that opposing values such as female and male, traditionalism and modernism, simplicity and decoration are coexisting. Simplicity is pursued but decorative elements are in harmony and new phase of time is reflected while certain style has lasted for a long period of time to become a tradition. Furthermore, a rational trend combining masculinity and femininity, simultaneously exist with a trend that emphasizes feminine image. ${\cdot}$Multiculturism is a mysterious feature that has adapted the oriental or other cultural factors into the forms, patterns, colors and material of costumes. It has also been reconstructed with the French and the modern tastes. ${\cdot}$Avant-gardism is pursuing a novel aesthetic value against the former value system. It recognizes the human body as an object of figurative arts therefore emphasizes the body with geometric shapes to deny the fixed-idea, or engraft new materials and technologies to express the futuristic aspects.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.43-55
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• 2010

The major advantages to use CAD System are that it reduce time and effort to manufacture products, and also can demonstrate the condition of the final product prior to the actual manufacturing process of the selected design using the simulation programs in CAD system. Specially in weave design, for use as Computer-Aided Weaving system, the complicated Dobby weave can figured out easily through calculating the complex weave plans of multi shafts. As to one of dobby weave structures, Supplementary warp is the warp threads which are in addition to the regular warps of the woven fabrics, and used for decorating the band or expressing some patterns. The purpose of this study is to research the weave design of Supplementary warp using Computer-Aided Weaving system, which is dobby weave design program of Weave Point. For performing this design study, it was researched the classified woven fabrics depending upon weaving processing, Computer-Aided Weaving system, and the characteristic of Supplementary warp fabrics. On the basis of the theoretical research, Supplementary warp was worked for the 24-shafts AVL computer dobby loom that applied to the various patterned images. The design work was done by Weave Point program of dobby weave, and simulated to fabrics before woven into the computer dobby loom. To see the visual images of fashion items, these simulated bobby fabrics were processed by three-dimension modeling through YoungWoo CNI CAD system. All the patterns of the Supplementary warp in this study could be applied for decorating the fashion clothing and accessories.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.271-280
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• 2000

This is the deconstruction of functionism and means the complex phenomenon of disharmony such as the reputation of purity, search for history, irony and so on. The perceptional system of post modernist and deconstructionist philosopy, that allow us to have the critical angle of view such as the deconstruction of the existing foundation and the absence of the meaning of the reasoncentered thinking of the west, is shown to be grafted into design, fashion and so forth. These elements are taking root as the style of the end of the 20th century. The deconstructional fashion revolting against the existing regime has been reconstructed and created a innovative aesthetic sense by going so far as to address the way that doffing is formed, the way to handle materials and physiological and psychological elements. The deconstructional fashion depicted on new interpretation of the body proportion with planeness and specificity while ignoring three-dimensionality , structuristic rationality

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1019-1034
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to grasp creation background and social position of courtesan which is treated in social and cultural context and its effect on fashion and research representative courtesans from ancient hetaera to the 19th century and their costume characteristics. Its another purpose is to analyze the costume of Violetta, who is a heroine of opera and its costume characteristic as a courtesan. Most Courtesan clothing were made from bright color, silk and lace which were light, or transparent materials. Using silk and cashmere which were the symbols of class, she took the cutting edge fashion and struggled to break the social barriers. The clothing which the Courtesan wore always became a gossip among people and popular to the designers who could show their creativities because the Courtesan boldly wore the cloth like movie actresses or stars. The Courtesan who led the fashion not only showed the fashion as a simple expression of the beauty but also as a socio-cultural phenomenon which reflected their social awareness with arts, and changed according to the situations of the time and people. Violetta's party dress which was shown in the first and third acts of showed the shoulders and chest because of the deep and wide cut decollete, the waist was tightened with a corset as much as possible, and the opulent hips were inflated by the crinoline so when they walked it was swaying. Also it was decorated with splendid materials such as silk and lace, and sparkling jewels, fans, and neckless and even in case of the general clothing in the second act, it was decorated with braids and lace, frills and ribbons. In the third act, the weakness of the sick woman who was closing her life as the splendid Courtesan was emphasized by using colors of white and light purple and thin transparent materials.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.32-44
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• 2015

Increasing of Korean old women's rate is demographic characteristics attributed an aging society, silver generation would lead to silver fashion market with steady competitiveness and interest in fashion. So the study attempts to use foundation material for silver's fashion design by analyzing design characteristics and processing development of design representative women's top. Selecting brand for collecting photo using study represents a mid- and premium-priced with reference Brand Yearbook. After selecting brand on domestic and foreign I have collected picture from Internet shopping mall and web-site of fashion brand, from October 2013 to July 2014, but I selected 840 pictures based on front poses for easy decision. In order to search design characteristics according to sort of silver blouse design on domestic and foreign. I have examined shape, color, pattern, fabric sensation, inside composition line and decoration with reference standard of analysis in preceding research. Data analysis method was conducted on analysis of frequency and cross analysis using SPSS statistical package 21.0. The conclusion of design characteristic according to type of blouse design for silver, H-silhouette in shirt blouse seems to fit in body transformation and expose silhouette with correcting the body flaw. Using soft material in T-shirt blouse they are able to conceal a body defect and express beautiful silhouette. By using detail in pullover shirt blouse and tunic blouse for point of design, it express glamour and luxurious. Most of blouse are printed various pattern, it would looks more gorgeous using pattern.