• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.42
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• pp.127-136
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• 1999

This study purport to establish the size was flexibly receptive to consumers. Sample size was 6555 women in their 20's and 29 variables from the diret anthropometric data were applied to analyze. The preliminary survey was taken from Febraury 10. 1997 to May 23 1997 and the measurement was done from April 14, 1997 to June 10. 1997. Follwing the KS regulations Hanbok were given 3cm intervals each for the bust and hip girth and cm for th height. Size system was presented for the usage of developing the pattern of hanbok by analyzing the result of the regression coefficient and referring to the distribution chart of the back length and the neck to ulnar styloid length. When establishing the standard size for the ready-made Hanbok like Western style clothes it's convenient for both consumer and producer to present both bust girth and height. To enhance the fitting of Chogori we used the flatness ratio of bust as the reference for grouping styles of body. in the case of Chima-\ulcorner해갸 4 brackets are developed. First step was bust girth 78cm height 15cm second was bust girth 5852cm5 height 160cm third was bust girth 82cm height 165cm fourth was bust girth 88cm height 16cm.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.749-755
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• 2004

This paper was conducted to compare the methods of women's basic pattern and the problems by analyzing the space between skin and clothing using 3D scanner and thereupon, proposed the solutions. The Bunka pattern of Japan Bunka Women's University(Bunka) and the Secoli pattern of Italy istituto carlo secoli(Secoli) were used. The subject who has nearly the same body size with N type of National anthropometric survey of Korea in 1997 was picked out. In the result of analyzing the space between skin and clothing of each pattern by 3D Scanner, there exist significant differences in the chest and bust parts. The Bunka has more space than the Secoli at bust part, especially between bust points. Because the Bunka has the bust dart which was made from only the bust girth, it couldn't reflect the difference of each human body. Whereas the Secoli has the bust dart which gave a consideration the difference between the bust girth and the chest girth, it has more even space between skin and clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.2 s.38
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• pp.189-198
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• 1991

The object of this study is to perceive the discomforts of the brassiere consumers according to their age groups & weight groups. The study procedures consisted of a status quo study, a rating on fit and performance according to brassiere types. 1. The result of the status quo study are as follows. (1) The study showed that with getting age bust circumference and bust size become larger with a bigger tendency to droop. Thus older age, bigger bust circumference and size require a technically improved version of brassieres. (2) Slightly tight fit brassieres were favored over more ample ones. The hobbling areas were center front, under armpits, and shoulder strapareas in that order. 2. The results of fit rating on different brassiere types are as follows. (1) The areas affected by brassiere performance were length from side neck point to bust point (bust length), width between bust points and bust height. (2) Compared among brassiere types, the wire type proved most effective. The bigger cup size group had higher satisfactory rate and low discomfort on wearing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.57-75
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• 2010

This study is done in Shanghai area by sample survey of female college students in their lower 20s. Through direct contact survey, this study collected and analyzed information on figure to understand feature of breasts and measurements of body to provide base information to improve product of brassiere for adult female in China. Data was analyzed by using SPSSWIN 13.0 Program and SAS 9.0. 1. From a result of factor analysis on 40 items of measures to derive the components of the shape of the breast, 6 factors were derived such as the factors to show the obesity of the bust, to show the ratio of the upper and lower area of the lower bust, droop and volume, to show the internal shape and broadness of the bust, to show the location and vertical size of the bust, to show the protrusion of the bust and the eternal shape of the bust. 2. From a result of classification on the shape of the breast of the Chinese women in their early 20s, 4 types were selected. Type 1 is the protrusion type that a woman has a broad drooped breast due to the development in the upper and lower parts of the chest as well as the highest height, a high degree of obesity in the bust part, big volume and much protrusion. Type 2 is the hemisphere type that the degree of obesity in the breast is second to Type 1 and a breast is located at a region higher than Type 1 as the degree of obesity in the breast is secondly highest, the lower part of the bust is bigger than the Type 1 and the degree of being broad and drooped is second to Type 1. Type 3 is the cone type with a breast of being drooped and broad a little bit and a certain degree of a volume. Type 4 is the flat type with the smallest value in the item that shows the obesity of the bust area and with the smallest value in the R$\ddot{o}$hrer index to have the small and slender body type for the bust area, which is somewhat flat due to a low slope at the internal side of the bust.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.689-698
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to develop the well-fitted brassieres by observing the changes in the breast sizes and shapes, the surface area and the volume of the breast through the arm movements of 3 types (0$^{\circ}$, 90$^{\circ}$ and 180$^{\circ}$) in vertical motion. The subjects are females, who are aged twenties and wearing a brassiere size 70B, In particular, to obtain the measures regarding the surface area and the volume of the breast, replicas are made at each motion. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The changes in the breast sizes and shapes at each motion By increasing the motions of the arm movement, the following measure items are inclined to decrease: Shoulder length, Side neck point~B.P., Front neck point~B.P., Horizontal length of the cup, Upper bust circumference, Bust circumference, Upper bust depth, Bust depth, Under bust depth, Nipple to tipple breadth, Horizontal distance of bust, Bust height, Cup size. By increasing the motions of the arm movement, the following measure items are inclined to increase: Center point of shoulder~B.P., Shoulder point~B.P., Armpit~ lowest point of breast drooping, Upper bust point~B.P., B.P~Under bust point, Under bust line, Width of gap between breast, Vertical distance of Bust. 2. The changes in the surface area and volume of breast at each motion By making the replica to observe changes in the surface area, which are sectioned to 4 parts(area 1 to area 4) , and volume of breast at each motion, the results are as follows: At 0$^{\circ}$ and 90$^{\circ}$, the sizes of each part are ordered as the following: area2> areal> area4> area3. At 180$^{\circ}$, the sizes of each part are ordered as the following: areal> area2> area4> area3. Through these orders, it is found that the upper and inside part of the breast has the inclination to increase so long as the motions of the arm movement increase. Also, the total surface area increases so long as the motions of the arm movement increase. The volume of the breast increase when the surface area of the breast increases. As a result of the F-test on the changes in the each surface areas, the surface area and volume by arm movements, the significant differences among the each surface areas and the surface area are not found.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1073-1081
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• 2006

The development of foundation garment pattern on the typical adult women's body was carried out. By means of the flatted body surface shell, the foundation garment pattern was developed. And its fitting test also performed. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The investigated Foundation basic pattern was made by the allowing the maximum bust size without any surplus since it was based on the tight-fitted model drawing technique. The investigated the completed pattern was designed in three parts of front and back body, including bust. 2. The result showed by overlapping the torso basic pattern foundation and body surface development selected from body almost the same except for the shift of dart position. 3. The result by overlapping basic pattern 3 existing basic patterns. On the basis of top-bust line showed that the setting up the volume of dart of bust and its waist affect the appearance of model. Especially, it was found that the above result was related to the bust and under bust line. 4. The result of the wearing test of 3 existing basic patterns and basic pattern of this study revealed that the mean values of whole items were higher than average in type P and type E. The fitting & position of under-bust line and extent of wrapping bust showed the high points in the current study and type of P. The result of evaluating the whole appearance in three points(front, side, back) showed different according to the every basic foundation garment pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.892-903
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• 2006

This study was to carry out interview and survey of currently marketed foundation garment, focusing on manufacturers, on the basis of data of Year 2004 SIZE KOREA in 2004, to re-establish suitable age range and standard size, to simplify size interval scale and size system and to revise the standard for consumers' easy understanding and availability; The findings of this study are as follows. 1. Considering the age, in which a bra is worn, has reduced socially, the applicable age range was expanded into $8{\sim}80$ years old, which was divided into for junior and for adult. 2. For bra size, the standard title changed into the foundation garments size standard, in which girdle and bodysuit were included. 3. Basic physical parts for establishing for bra size are underbust and bust. Interval scale of under bust and bust was 5cm and 2.5cm, respectively. And basic physical parts are waist and hip girth for girdle, and underbust, bust, and hip girth for bodysuit. 4. For bra size, underbust girth was applied together with bra-cup size without 'cm' unit. For bra-cup size, difference between underbust and bust was represented as English alphabet. In other words, AAA means that difference between under bust and bust is 5cm. AA, A, B, C and D means that the difference are 7.5cm, 10cm, 12.5cm, 15cm and 17.5cm. 5. For girdle size, waist girth was applied together with hip girth without 'cm' unit. And for bodysuit size, underbust girth was applied together with cup size like bra size, and English alphabet represented hip girth range.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.107-121
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• 1981

The objective of this study is to establish a standard size for clothing construction and to develop a basic bodice pattern for Misses. 1. Seven kinds of pattern generally used in Korea were collected and compared in the aspect of items of necessary measurements and application of measurements to pattern drawing. 2. 209 girls aged 17 to 25 were measured on 22 items. The measurements were analyzed by calculation of means, standard deviations, co-variance, range, maximum, minimum, and correlation co-efficient between each item. the data were classified into four size groups according to bust size. Correlation co-efficient between each item were as follows: 1) Correlation co-efficients of bust to upper bust and waist were very high. 2) Correlation co-efficients of bust to shoulder width, across back and across chest were relatively high (r=.6385, r=.7493, r=.6344, respectively). 3) Bust had little correlation to neck and shoulder slope.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.65-84
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to analyze the relation between the beauty of human body and the fashion illustration in each period And I attained my object through the investigation of features and changes of illustration which is given a vivid description of the features and development of ideal humam body beauty. By various methods I studied this subject. Frist I refered to sundry records Secondly I investiated the fashion illustrations which are included in Vogue. On the basis of this data I grasped the ideal types of human body beauty which is founded during the social change in each 10 years. And I analyzed the relation be-tween the ideal type and fashion illustration which show the change of fashion. The summary of result is as follows. 1. In the early part of the 20th century the beauty of human body is represented with the figure of large-sized beauty which emphasize shoulder and bust. And fashion ikllustration show 9 life-size broad shoulder full bust lim waist and hourglass silhouette. 2, In the 1910s the swell of strength vanishes gradually and shoulder and sleeve are straight type. And fashion illustration show 7 life-size high waist line. And that is tublar sil-houette of high waist and streamline shape in which bust and hip are not emphasized. 3. In the 1920s the ideal type of human body beauty is straight type which shows flat bust and unexaggerate hip. And fashion illus-tration is about 8 life-size tublar silhouette of low waist and lunger and slimmer and young style in which bust and hip are not emph-asized. 4. In the 1930s the ideal is womamly slim and long style. Fashion illustration is about 8 life-size and slim & long silhouette in which waist line is emphasized and bust and hip line come out. 5. In the 1940s the ideal type is womamly style which has narrow shoulder rich bast and slim waist. And fashion illustration is about 7 life-size and hourglass silhouette which has unartificial shoulder slim waist and empha-sized bust. 6. In the 1950s the ideal type is that of ro-bust health which emphasize build and muscu-lar system. And fashion illustration is 8.5 life-size and show full bust and made waist slimmer. That is sheath silhouette. 7. In the child who has full face with large eyeball slender and long leg: narrow and immatured body comparatively big head. And fashion illus-tration is 7 life-size and show slim and long neck flat bust long and slim limbs and big head. That is H type silhouette. 8. In the 1970s the ideal type is high stat-ure flat breast small hip and wide shoulders. And fashion illustration is wide shoulders and slim waist as 11 life-size and straight sil-houete. 9. In the 1980s the ideal type is extremely emphasized breadth of shoulder because healthy body and muscle are recognized as the symbol of ideal attractiveness. And fashion il-lustration is about 8.5 life-size and show mus-cular slim type that is slim silhouette. 10 At the present time the ideal type is slim and tall type which is empasized healthy beauty. And fashion illustration is 12 life-size which has healthy body and skin So that is slim and long type.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.69-79
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to compare fitting of the upper garment by brassiere cup size and types of bodice block. This study conducted a 3D virtual garment system by applying three types of bodice block (I, II, III) and experimental pattern of the bodice block to 3D avatars of four individuals with the following measurements: under bust circumference of 73.5 cm and bust circumferences of 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0cm. The results of the study were as follows. First, for 83.5 cm bust circumference (A Cup), appearance of the three types of bodice block (I, II, III) was appropriate. However, as bust circumference increased in size, shape became inappropriate. The depth and width of the armhole, within 15 cm and 11 cm, respectively, were found to be appropriate. In case of 91.0 cm bust circumference (D Cup), all three bodices (I, II, III) were inappropriate. Second, the results of the draft of the experimental patterns of the bodice block of bust circumference measuring 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0 cm in the 3D avatars of the four individuals revealed similarities in the frontal view of the silhouette in the four avatars; in the case of the lateral view of the silhouette, lateral width grew wider as bust circumference of the silhouette became larger, but the shape of armhole showed no changes. The depth of the armhole showed little changes from 15.1 cm to 15.22 cm, and the height of sleeve (armscye depth 13.6 cm within +2 cm) remained similar. The difference in width of the armhole from 11.26 cm to 11.37 cm was rather small. The width of the upper sleeve (8.97 cm) seemed to be appropriate as it remained within the 2-3 cm boundary.