• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.76-83
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• 1993

In this study, an approximate method for calculating the directional spectrum of waves encountering a current in shallow water is developed. The wave trains in tile directional spectrum are assumed to be linear and Gaussian; development of the spectrum requires that the waves also be short crested. The Miche's breaking criterion is imposed to determine the upper limit of wave height and to establish an expression for the breaking wave elevation in terms of the ideal wave's elevation and the second time derivative of wave elevation. Two examples are given; one for a Wallops directional spectrum encountering a shear current and another with an upwelling current.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.384-395
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• 2020

Breaking waves generated by wave shoaling in coastal areas have a close relationship with various physical phenomena in coastal regions, such as sediment transport, longshore currents, and shock wave pressure. Therefore, it is crucial to accurately predict breaker index such as breaking wave height and breaking depth, when designing coastal structures. Numerous scientific efforts have been made in the past by many researchers to identify and predict the breaking phenomenon. Representative studies on wave breaking provide many empirical formulas for the prediction of breaking index, mainly through hydraulic model experiments. However, the existing empirical formulas for breaking index determine the coefficients of the assumed equation through statistical analysis of data under the assumption of a specific equation. In this paper, we applied a representative linear-based supervised machine learning algorithms that show high predictive performance in various research fields related to regression or classification problems. Based on the used machine learning methods, a model for prediction of the breaking index is developed from previously published experimental data on the breaking wave, and a new linear equation for prediction of breaker index is presented from the trained model. The newly proposed breaker index formula showed similar predictive performance compared to the existing empirical formula, although it was a simple linear equation.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.3-11
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• 2001

To know the seawater infiltration into tidal flat sediment in coastal area is very important, because it is significantly correlated with the infiltration and transportation of pollutants in soil, the supply of dissolved oxygen, nutrients and organic matter to benthic organisms for survival of benthic organisms and the seawater purification. So, we set up purpose to clarify the infiltration behavior of seawater by wave action in tidal flat, to clear the effects of slope of tidal flat and breaking wave height on seawater infiltration and to quantify the infiltration volume of seawater. For purpose, the seawater infiltration was studied with visualization method by using coloring tracer and transparent glass beads replaced as natural sediment in model tidal flat. Specific conclusions derived from this study are as follows. The semi-circular type infiltration of seawater by wave action into saturated sediment was a new infiltration behavior that was not considered in previous studies. The infiltration rate of seawater was increased with increasing of breaking wave height and slope of tidal flat. However, the effects of the slope was bigger than that of breaking wave height on seawater infiltration into tidal flat sediments. It was possible to calculate the infiltration volume of seawater by wave action in natural tidal flat sediment and in fields. Therefore, we can point out that wave action play an important role in the supply of dissolved oxygen, nutrients and organic matter to benthic organisms, transportation or diffusion of pollutants and seawater purification. So, we hope to be studied the supply of food to benthic organism, pollutant transport and seawater purification on the base of these results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.511-520
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• 2007

WAM(WAve Model), deep water wave model has been extended to the region of shallow water, incorporating wave breaking, and triad wave interaction. To verify the model, numerical simulation of waves in Youngil bay, Pohang is performed and the simulated results show good agreements with measured wave data sets, one station at the mouth of bay and two stations inside the bay. As waves propagate toward the shore, wave height gradually diminishes by bottom friction and wave breaking, and wave direction, initially NE changes normal to the shore due to depth refraction.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.37-43
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• 1996

Breaking waves were generated in a 2-D flume. A piston-type wavemaker was operated in accordance with signals which consist of elementary harmonics with appropriate phase differences. These phase differences were estimated by using a linear wave theory so that wave crests were to be concentrated at the same position. The stroke of wavemaker was controlled to create plunging-type breaking waves. The signal with small amplitude could not generate breaking waves. In the case of moderate amplitudes, various breaking waves could be obtained. Most of breaking waves were spilling type. Only when the wavemaker was operated with appropriate amplitude, plunging-type breaking waves were generated. The parameters of breaking waves are the wave steepness and the frequency bandwidth. If the central frequency was low, breaking waves were not generated. Based on experimental data, we found that the wave height of breaking inception was H = 0.0113 gT$^2$. We also made computations by using a mixed Euler-Lagrangian scheme under the assumption of potential flow. The numerical results show good agreements with tank measurements.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.39-44
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• 2009

To improve the accuracy of numerical simulation of wave trans- formation across the surf zone, nonlinear shoaling effect based on Shuto's empirical formula and breaking mechanism are induced in the elliptic modified mild slope equation. The variations of shoaling coefficient with relative depth and deep water wave steepness are successfully reproduced and show good agreements with Shuto's formula. Breaking experiments show larger wave height distributions than linear model due to nonlinear shoaling but breaking mechanism shows a little bit larger damping in 1/20 beach slope experiment.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.565-573
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• 2007

The effect of wave and current interactions on irregular wave transformation over a submerged elliptic shoal is investigated based on numerical simulations of the Vincent and Briggs experiment [Vincent, C.L., Briggs, M.J., 1989. Refraction-diffraction of irregular waves over a mound. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 115(2), pp. 269-284]. The numerical simulations are conducted by a combination of REF/DIF S(a wave model) and SHORECIRC(a current model) and a time dependent phase-resolving wavecurrent model, FUNWAVE. In the simulations, the breaking-induced currents defocus waves behind the shoal and bring on a wave shadow zone that shows relatively low wave height distributions. The computed results of the combined model system agree better with the measurements than the computed results obtained by neglecting wave-current interaction do. In addition, the results of FUNWAVE show a good agreement with the measurements. The agreement indicates that it is necessary to take into account the effect of breaking-induced current on wave refraction when wave-breaking occurs over a submerged shoal.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.619-633
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• 1994

A wave deformation model for general purpose combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking is developed in the shallow water. A parabolic approximation equation considered a higher order diffraction term is derived from the previous mild slope equation. A wave energy dissipation term due to bottom friction and breaking is introduced from the turbulence model. The Crank-Nicoloson implicit scheme is used in the numerical calculation, then the solutions are compared with the various hydraulic experiment data in the circular, the elliptic shoal, and the surf zone. The wave height decay in the surf zone is sensitively affected by the incident wave steepness, and the wave height variation around the elliptic shoal is well explained by the non-linear dispersion relation and the wave energy dissipation term. The model is also applied to a field coastal area and reasonable results are obtained.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.315-324
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• 2022

The experimental data obtained in a wave flume were analyzed using machine learning techniques to establish a model that predicts the input wave height of the wavemaker based on the waves that have experienced wave shoaling and to verify the performance of the established model. For this purpose, artificial neural network (NN), the most representative machine learning technique, and Gaussian process regression (GPR), one of the non-parametric regression analysis methods, were applied respectively. Then, the predictive performance of the two models was compared. The analysis was performed independently for the case of using all the data at once and for the case by classifying the data with a criterion related to the occurrence of wave breaking. When the data were not classified, the error between the input wave height at the wavemaker and the measured value was relatively large for both the NN and GPR models. On the other hand, if the data were divided into non-breaking and breaking conditions, the accuracy of predicting the input wave height was greatly improved. Among the two models, the overall performance of the GPR model was better than that of the NN model.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.149-155
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• 1995

This study is to investigate the dynamic pressure caused by breaking waves on a recurved offshore structure. A physical modelling was performed in a two-dimensional wave flume. The measuments from the physical modelling were compared with several known equations. The shock and secondary pressures were found to be dependent on water depth, breaking wave height and the size of the air pocket. The maximum pressure was recorded near the still water level and the secondary pressures near the recurved the recurved structure were found to be less than those experienced in a vertical offshore structure.