• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.63-79
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• 2011

This study examines the relationship between breast shape and brassiere construction through the comparative analysis of brassiere pattern on the breast shape. This researcher drew the brassiere pattern of developing a pre-study for Chinese female adults according to average size based on the four breast shapes. And then we measures brassiere pattern size and comparatively analyzes breast between size and shape. Comparative analysis results of brassiere patterns are verified differences of size and shape on the breast shape. Above all an angle of cup dart showed remarkable differences on the breast shape. An angle of cup dart isn't proportioned to breast size. An angle of cup dart for cone shape is bigger than dome shape. Because cone shape breast is protruded center part but dome shape breast have a shape of smooth curve like a half globe. So an angle of a cone shape breast cup dart is determined bigger than dome shape breast. For increasing the uplift effect of brassiere, brassiere pattern is different on the breast shape. And a brassiere pattern need different drawing methods about the angle of cup dart, breast inner side diameter, slope and so on. This study has an important significance that it established a mechanical relationship of breast shape and brassiere pattern.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.95-113
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• 2006

This study was conducted comparative analysis of juvenile brassiere and adult brassiere to identify the problems of brassieres on the market. The raw data for this study was processed by SPSS 10.1 version(statistical software) and the results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1) The result of comparative analysis of juvenile brassiere and adult brassiere pattern is that each pattern showed no difference. 2) The results of the comparative analysis of juvenile and adult brassiere pattern in wing's length and angle is that even though there are some difference between juvenile and adult in side line inclination of brassiere. there is no setting difference but size of that brassiere. 3) The result of a comparative analysis pattern and cup size measurement of juvenile brassiere and adult brassiere is that even though the adult cup girth and angle is bigger than the juvenile because adults have more protrusive and bigger volume and well developed breast, some case rather the adult's cup angle is smaller than the juvenile as brand. And as we grow up to be a woman, difference of lower breast girth and breast girth are become big while difference of upper breast girth and breast girth are become small for that reason upper cup must be lower and lower cup must be higher but there is almost no difference between adult and juvenile. 4) The result of a comparative analysis of juvenile brassiere and adult brassiere bust point of the pattern is that adult brassiere's distance between bust points 6.12cm, and juvenile's 5.6cm, there are only 0.52cm difference between two products and just 0.4cm, size grading. These results are explained that even though when grow up to be a woman the distance between two bust points become to be long and breast toward out side but brassiere size don't vary with body characteristic.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.719-730
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to develop the basic patterns of adult womens brassiere therewith, provide for some basic data useful to the brassiere manufacturing which are both functional and fitting. For this purpose, 220 adults women(aged between 20 and 59) were sampled to be measured for their body sizes and tested for their brassiere wearing. The collected data were statistically processed using the SAS 6.12 for Means, Standard Deviation, etc. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. In order to develop the basic patterns of adult womens brassieres, 75A size was selected out of 12 size combination(3 women per 75A size) and then, their brassiere fitting was tested. As a result, the fronts of the basic patterns were found to have such problems as undone front center, poor levelling of upper cups bottom line or lower cups top line, poor shape of upper cups outside top line and shoulder strip position. On the other hand, n the rear side of the basic patterns, the central part of the wing was slightly lifted, while the wing width and straps interval did not befit the full-cup brassiere. The result of this first brassiere fitting test showed that the functionality and aesthetics of the basic pattern brassieres were more or less satisfactory, and thus, the problems were address for the second test. In the second test, the aesthetics, breast-shaping effect and functionality of the basic pattern brassieres were much improved. 2. The basic patterns of adult womens brassieres were characterized by a round cup wired as well as a full cup embracing the entire breasts. Each basic pattern which consisted of upper and lower cups was shaped \"straight(-)\". The basic sizes adopted at the first design stage (see fig. 1-2) was 75A of which was designed as upper foundation basic pattern. At the second stage, the upper body foundation pattern were used to design lower cup, upper cup, front panel and wing in their order.(see fig. 3-5, fig. 8)5, fig. 8)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.821-832
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop grading method of the basic brassiere patterns therewith, provide for 12 size's brassiere patterns and prove fitness of their's and shape. The collected data were statistically processed using the SAS 6.12 for Means, Standard Deviation, etc. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The basic sizes adopted at the first design stage (see fig.1-2) were 75AA, 75A and 75B each of which was designed as upper foundation basic pattern in reference to the cup size. At the second stage, each of the upper body foundation basic pattern was used to design lower cup, upper up, front panel and wing in their order(see fig.3-6). At the third stage, the other sizes were graded in reference to the three brassiere patterns (75AA, 75A and 75B) to produce 12 brassiere sizes(see Tab. 7-8). In order to develop the basic patterns of adult women's brassieres, 33 women were selected per 11 size combination(3 women per size combination), and then, their brassiere fitting was teated. As a result, the fronts of the basic patterns were found to have such problems as undone front center, poor levelling of upper cup's bottom line or lower cup's top line, poor shape of upper cup's outside top line and shoulder strip position. On the other hand, on the rear side of the basic patterns, the central part of the wing was slightly lifted, while the wing width and straps'interval did not befit the ful1-cup brassiere. The result of this first brassiere fitting test showed that the functionality and aesthetics of the basic pattern brassieres were more or less satisfactory, and thus, the problems were addressed for the second teat. In the second test, the aesthetics, breast-shaping effect and functionality of the basic pattern brassieres were much improved. 2. We were to present the final brassiere sizing system to extend the interior length of breast and the exterior length of breast on the basis of fitting test. Thereby, 75B$.$80A$.$80B$.$85A$.$85B's the interior lengths of breast were enlarged to 0.7cm, the rest size was enlarged to 0.5cm and the exterior length of breast was enlarged to 0.5cm regardless of sizes. 3. The upper foundation basic patterns of 75AA and 75B were presented and and the basic brassiere pattern and grading pattern were presented through to.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.109-119
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to dvelop the basic pattern of wome which are fitting for 75A. The collected data were statistcally processed usig the SPSS 10.0 for Mans Standard Deiation, Cronbach's $\alpha$, etc. This study suggested a size chart for body measurement for constructing basic brssiere patterns with size of 75A. The construction of this experimental brassiere were lower cup, upper cup, front panel and wing and characterized by a round cup wired as well as a full cup embrcing the entire breasts. The drafting method for constructing basic brassiere patterns for 75A was completed by selecting a total of 11subjects, and two wearing tests were carried out with the subjects. the dimensions and shapes of the basic brassiere pattern suggested in this research proved to be fitting and to have a wearing effect that brings together and supports the breasts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.81-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop the applied brassiere pattern of women which are fitting for 75A. The constructing of this experimental brassiere were lower cup, upper cup, front panel and U-wing as well as a full cup embcing the entire breasts. Basing on the bra model from domestic experiment results, development of an applied design, round side type pattern, has been suggested. Thus, suggesting the round variation design bra, which is an applied design based on the basic model based on the breast volume. Based on the sizes that are in reference to Size Korea (2004) and related previous researches, the basic model that has been experimented with 11.4% polyurethane and 88.6% Nylon as the materials, has been selected as the model of research. This takes 75A, the size of which is set according to the underbust circumference and the breasts circumference, as the basic model. It is an application in terms of design, and there is no change to the cup volume or size because it has been moved only from the cutting line. The applied design changes the right side of the lower cup into an easily-movable form and attaches it to the upper cup, and the lower cup takes the right part of the upper cup to form a cup shape of round variation design. It also changes basic straight form of the wings, and alters them into U-shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.94-105
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• 2021

This study analyzes the shape change of the breast according to the replica combination method of the lower cup and suggest a pattern construction for the end use purpose. To provide appropriate brassiere patterns to each individual who has various 3D shape characteristics, the ways of layout of 3D replicas were investigated as well as evaluated subjectively and objectively. As for experimental brassieres, basic replicas from the mold cup of long-run brassiere were combined into five different ways to find the appropriate lower brassiere cup pattern. Eighteen women wore experimental brassieres and their breasts were analyzed using the Geomagic Design X program (3D System, Inc., Korea). As result, the pattern that matched the vertexes of the four pieces of the replica and naturally spread the bottom part was best for raising and pushing toward the inside breasts. The fit was good in the case of a pattern in which the convex portions overlapped both sides of the four replica pieces where the vertexes and the bottom part naturally spread apart. The subjects were able to differentiate comfortably fitted brassieres and highly functional brassieres.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.15-26
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designing and making of brassiere with the consideration of the physiological nature of man. Each of 3/4-cup wired upward-support-type Mold Bra of 75 size with basic pad made at three representative domestic companies (A, B and C Company) was selected for analysis of pattern and components. The following is the result of this study. 1. That Company A's bra had the highest cup, relatively narrow width, the widest front-center and the highest front center at front pad. That of Company B had relatively short wing over the base and much difference at the height of cup depending on the presence of wire. That of Company C had low and wide cup, the widest bust span and the front center width, the front center height of front pad, the base length of front pad and the length of wings were observed to be of the figures between those of Company A and B. 2. The Bra of Company A had the biggest front center angle of $6^{\circ}$, while that of Company C had the biggest wing angle of $18^{\circ}$. The Bra of Company B showed the biggest difference of patterns depending on the presence of wire. Those of Company A and C showed very similar shape when wire was inserted. 3. The order of making brassiere is following: making of exterior mold cup${\rightarrow}$ sewing exterior cup and circumference of mold${\rightarrow}$ sewing base and wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to base${\rightarrow}$ sewing cup and main pad${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to upper sides and upper part of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing wire-tape to interior base of cup${\rightarrow}$ inserting of wire inside wire-tape${\rightarrow}$ sewing hook & eye on the back of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing shoulder string.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.122-130
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to develop the appropriate brassiere pattern for women. Total of 6 brands with same design and 75A, 80A size brassieres(total 12 brassieres) were compared and analyzed for pattern, cup size and patterns. SPSS 10.1 statistic process was used for data analysis. The outcom of this study is summarized as follows. Total length of brassiere by grade were performed smaller than the standard difference 5cm. For 1/2 front cover length, There were no significant differences between 75 and 80. The reason for lower line of wing is shorter than upper line of wing is because side support is cut side ways considering lower line of wing is sewn more toward front than upper line of wing. Even it is same A cup size most cup related sizes become larger according to underbust comparing with cup capacity, they range from 146.67cc to 172.83cc for same A cups. Among same A cups with difference underbust there was average of 26.16cc differences. For relations of material, sewing technology and expansion rate, all 6 brands had zigzag type sewing for upper line tape. For every 0.3cm height, there were $17{\sim}21$ stitches. When urethane mixture is similar expansion rate is higher while number of 1 inch zigzag are high. For elasticity, zigzag stitch expand side ways for more expansion.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.397-406
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• 2009

A Study on the Development of Brassiere Pattern for Elderly Women The purpose of this study is to develop functional and sensible brassiere for elderly women. For this purpose, 6 elderly women(aged between 65 and 69) were sampled to be measured for their body sizes and tested for their bressiere wearing. he results were as follows; 1. In order to develop the basic patterns of elderly women's bressieres, 90B size was selected and then, their bressiere fitting was tested. The foundation pattern of the size 90A was proved for the body by the wearing tests. Each angle and length of the parts on the basic line of the breasts played an important role on setting the pattern. 2. As based on the body surface shell extracted from a plastic mold(photo.2), the cup of brassiere pattern were applied to the body surface shell(photo.4), and full side stretch-wings were applied to 13% reduced body size. The design pattern of elderly women's brassiers were characterized by a round wired as well as a full cup(3piece) embracing the entire breasts. 3. As the result of the wearing test, the excellence of the experimental brassiere was recognized objectively, with high marks in all the items(fig. 6). The experimental brassiere was covering the whole breasts to cope with change according to breasts loosing. It was designed to support the breasts firmly.