• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.721-736
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• 2004

The aim of this study is to clarify aesthetic values and sociocultural meanings that reappears in contemporary fashion. In order to analyze aesthetic values and symbolic meanings of body decoration, I examined the concepts and expression methods of the body decoration. Also, analyzed external characteristics of expression and its internal meanings that applied in modern fashion. The expressions of body decoration represented in contemporary fashion are classified into direct and indirect methods. The direct method is expressed by tattoos, piercing, henna, make-up and body painting. And, indirect method is expressed by see-through look, body-conscious look and accessories that were utilized its patterns and the material adaptation methods. Such expression of body decoration in the modern fashion was represented into grotesque images and erotic images. The characteristics of grotesque images are abnormal state, hateful animal image and distorted or transformed body and the internal meanings are the pursuit of primitive, exoticism, the pursuit of playfulness, and resistance. The characteristics of erotic images are an exposure of body, see through, body-conscious and androgynous look and the internal meanings are the self-intoxication, naturalism and sexual pleasure.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.7-16
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• 2011

Maximalism is the code which has a power to interpret a fashion phenomenon expressed complexly and variously in the multicultural society. In the 21st century, maximalism which reappeared is not the expression by a method only. It is presenting the experimental design for the new pursuit through the mixture such as expansion, splendor, variety, decoration, distortion of configuration or transformation, and composition. Therefore, this study aims at analyzing expression of fashion design by four types(expansion, decoration, mixture, non-structure) materializing a feature of maximalism expressed in the domestic and foreign collection works from 2005 to 2010. The research results are as follows. 1. Expansion: It was showed artificial, formative, unique, and odd teatures through the expansion of the upper half of the body, the lower half of the body, and both of them. 2. Decoration: It was showed the actual decoration considering functionality and practicality and the decoration emphasizing and unique character and featuring domination and emphasis. 3. Mixture: It was showed through the mixture of the contrary textiles or the different sex image. 4. Non-structure: It showed the non-structure of the avant-garde trend and non-structure through decoration, detail, adjustment direction of a dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.3
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• pp.87-98
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the tattoo look in modern fashion from the aspects of 'expression techniques' and 'aesthetic properties'. Tattoos are one of the body decoration which have been continued for a long time all over the world and have contained various meanings in : invocation. symbolization. solidification, exotic tastes, and body decoration. While tattoos have been progressed for the past time, they have been enlarged into body painting, make-up, and even into body art. Besides, their technical skills and equipments have been also developed. Therefore, tattoos are neither tabooed nor restricted in lower class, such as gangsters, bickers, prostitutes, etc., any longer. They are showed in everywhere of our society, running on the fashion. Specially, in fashion, they are shown through the 'tattoo look' designed by talented fashion designers. Futhermore, tattoos are one of the things which have gotten a new value under the Post-modernism and the turning of the century. The various tattoo looks in modern fashion are classified into four categories, according to the expression techniques, the use of see-through, reappearance of primitive body-decoration, application of tattoo patterns, application of street styles'tattoo patterns, make-up & body painting. And, they are also classified into four categories, according to the aesthetic properties Exoticism, Eroticism, Primitivism, and Grotesque.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.31-48
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• 2007

The purpose of the this study is to make a historical review of changes in the structural decorations of men's costume from ancient times to modern times and to provide basic materials for developing handicraft decoration techniques and sewing methods in contemporary fashion. Their gorgeousness of collars and sleeves reached its peak along with the exaggerated expression of the human body during the Renaissance when people were free from Christian traditions of the Middle Ages and pursued human pleasures. Huge and decorative collars gave great dignity and formality to the wearer. Sleeves were slim and cuffs were small or nonexistent after the French Revolution. Various decorated pockets had been developed since pockets began to be attached to coats in the 17th century. Pockets were at the bottom of coat in the late 17th century, but they were gradually placed much higher on the coat. Buttons began to be used as the tool for sticking fast body to clothes in the 12th century and became extremely sumptuous accessories in the $16th{\sim}18th$ centuries. Men's clothes were simpler and more practical after the French Revolution. The result was that decorative buttons begun to disappear and metal buttons came out for practical purpose. The number of buttons worn on sleeves was also noticeably reduced. This research suggested the possibility that various decoration techniques could create the unique details in the each part of clothes. In order to develop high value-added products, we need to study various decoration-sewing methods and put to practical use them for creative fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.20-46
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• 2003

This study analyzes the garment decorations in the history of western costume based on their kinds and techniques, and consider the beginning and the development of costume decoration. The purpose is to promote a historical understanding of modern ornamentation. Based on the theoretical background concerning the origin and purpose of costume decoration, its symbolism and its relationship with images, this study classified the techniques and kinds of ornament and considered each costumes by their decoration. 1. The ornament was originated from the primitive custom of coloring the skin for the purpose of protecting the body, symbolizing the tribe, indicating the class, and threatening the enemies. As this custom changed into the decoration on the body as a form of tattoos or physical transformations, the practice of ornament seems to begin as a display of one's authority and wealth as well as a human instinct to decorate oneself beautifully. 2. The basic purpose of ornament is to look attractive by decorating oneself with ornaments. Addition of decorative design to the garment tends to complement the practical aspects of the whole clothing, and elevate its value and originality. 3. From the past, ornament has been used as a symbol of wealth and status. Originated from the desire to display one´s authority and power and to receive respect from others, the people's interest in ornament have rising. 4. The kinds and techniques of ornament can be classified into the structural and applied decorations. The former is decorating a part of a garment, such as the neckline, cellar, cuffs, or pockets. The latter includes braids, laces and embroideries. These ornament are diverse in their details and techniques, and should consider both functional aspects of clothing and its decorative functions emphasizing the aesthetic expressions. In the above considerations, we can see that costume ornament was most splendid in the premodern times and it was the simplest in the ancient times. And we also saw the possibility that decorative techniques could be created almost limitlessly.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.75-91
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• 2003

This study analyzed descriptions about dots, lines, and sides which are used as a basic elements to express geometric figures as followings: -In the aspect of formative art, dots form images and feelings through their concurrence when make a slight move to coordinates. The concurrence can bring out either positive or negative images; -Lines have unlimited variation as a core measure in body art. They can make optimal effects with different lines such as straight and curved lines of human body; -Sides express not only effects of texture and perspective but also of space and solid by color effects. Expressive characteristics and geometric shapes can be classified by tattoo, henna and body painting: First, colorful tattoos are favored by Caucasian and original tattoos are mostly used by yellow and colored races in the way of scarification to get decorative effects. Recently, a rapid cycle of fashion change in tattoo figures has developed a tentative method of tattooing and a variety of decoration methods. It has made it a lot easier to change a pattern of a tattoo. Tattoos are now popular among people because they no longer have to suffer from pains when they get their body tattooed for a long time. Since tattoos boast their unique beauty which consists of most dynamic and attractive images among the types of body art. It will be one of the most favored make-up methods in the nearest future. Second, geometric designs used in henna include crosses, dots, straight lines, triangles, date palms, and so on. Henna has been particularly loved as an instant decoration by the public since it gradually disappears as time goes on. Third, body painting enables to draw a three-dimensional effect because of its close relation with body movements in a limited space. Each individual will have a different feeling appealed in their body painting. Body painting has been applied to many different areas, especially to theatrical art using lights, music and performance altogether producing impromptu and experimental works. Unlike other arts such as painting, sculpture, visual and industrial arts, body painting has mobility. Since it is painted on a three-dimensional human body, it can bear originality expressing realistic objects or animals and strengthen creative functions using body lines. Moreover, geometric designs can be diversified by the sexes. As a result of analysis, geometric designs expressed in body art seemed to transcend expressions of beauty and turned out to be another way of decoration. Body art has also been used as a way to express visual integration and consolidation dynamically not by human instinct but by social changes. The needs for body art will grow as the future comes nearer and be recognized as a new and fresh value. Formative elements of geometric figures deliver visual impressions combined with human body and finally create more various types of body art in harmony of body lines.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.298-299
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• 2004

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.7
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• pp.235-247
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• 2000

This study was conducted to consider the formation of sleeves from the point of view that dress is one of expressive arts. The formative meaning of a sleeve and its chronological formation according to its formative changes as an evidence showing the Internal changes of social culture were examined, centering around day dress of England in the 11th to 19th centuries. Then, sleeves were formatively classified and their aesthetic values were considered to help do formative, aesthetic expression of dress design in the present times. Literatures and references concerning the history of domestic and foreign dress were used as a method of study. The results of this study are summarized as follows. 1. In the women's dress, the formation of the sleeve focuses on aesthetic decoration. This means that in the androgentric society the status of women are subordinate socioculturally. 2. Sleeves were classified into a fitted shape and a extension shape according to the aesthetic formation. The fluted shape expressed the beauty of body with emphasis old natural body, whereas the extension shape represented aesthetic expression of decoration. 3. The formation of a sleeve has influence on forming an image of dress by making the silhouette of dress natural or distorted, expresses the harmonious beauty of the whole dress, and produces the expressional beauty that gives a distinct characteristic to a dress.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.52-68
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to be inquired inner contemplation of the tattoo expressed in the modern costumes. For this study, related documentaries and pictures or photos were analyzed in terms of the theretical background for the history of tattoo, the relation between tattoo and the modern western costumes. The primary source of pictures or photos are Vogue, Collections, Collezioni, Harper\`s Bazaar, Modain, Model et Mode etc. The human\`s needs of body decoration had constantly pursued on the body and costumes from the first until lately. Especially in the recents, as the tattoo is implicated a dynamic and charming method of all kinds of body decoration, it\`s used a motive of modern western costumes. The original tattoo means a picture, word etc. that was put permanently onto their skin using a needle and coloring matter. But, these days tattoo is an expression of street style for something new in the subculture. The results were as a follows : The inner meaning of tattoo represented in the modern costumes was classified into two categories. First, the tattooing was a very important factor to complete fashion design through the history of modern costumes, and also the elaborate tattoo of the body was displayed unrestricted formativeness as the skinhead\`s tattoo, raceless\`s ambiguity of street style and artistic decoration, because that can be faded easily. Second, Tattoo Look was expressed as tattoo prints of the see-through, elastic textiles in the modern costumes. That is, the tattoo enhanced the effect of dramatic atmosphere other formative arts as well as the modern costumes by Tattoo Look. Similarity, Tattoo Look could be interpreted as the change of the aesthetic consciousness by the influence of the subculture. Accordingly, in the end of a this century, many experimental designers had applied tattoo to modern costumes. So this study will stand as an important clue to foresee the future costume\`s style and change.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.1-8
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate gather as decoration techniques of clothes. In this study, we defined 21st century as the modern fashion. And analyzed design that applied gather concerned with Milan, New York, London, Paris, Tokyo Woman's Collections. Data were used from Fashion News and Gap Press Magazine (2001-2004). The results of this study were as follows: 1. Gather was the most original techniques among decoration techniques of clothes and formed three-dimensional space. 2. There were many kinds of gather such as cluster gather, all gather, shirring, smoking, frill, flounce, ruffle. and it gave a different impression with Fabrics, cutting method, sewing method, parts that were used. 3. Gather had practical functions providing enough space in activity and was presented as new shape by three-dimension body motion when it was put on. 4. After analyzing design that applied gather showed in collections, there were various appearance according to designer's sensitivity.