• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.34 no.2
• /
• pp.367-378
• /
• 1996

The purpose of this study was to utilize of the CAD system in pattern making process for women's bodice sloper, especially in education of the drafting. Accumark 540 System was used for this study. The drafting program was developed by the use of macro program in CAD system. The results from this study : 1. The Lim Won Ja's system of bodice sloper was selected in this study. The hand drafting of the system was arranged developing the macro program of bodice sloper. 2. The program consists of eight subprograms I sequence of the drafting order. In running this developed program, proper figure is drafted by inputing data. And the drafting process is automatically presented in interactive mode. 3. It has been developed to input the function of French Curve Ruler to increase the effectiveness of curved line treatment. The program can also be used in the curve part to present the manualy sensible function. 4. In case of education of drafting bodice sloper, the program provides the high accuracy, efficiency and a strong interest nterest in pattern making process by utilizing CAD system.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
• /
• v.6 no.3
• /
• pp.205-210
• /
• 2020

The purpose of this study is to propose grading increments chart for women's bodice sloper in their 20s in order to increase consumer satisfaction with apparel products. The selected bodice sloper is a compromise between the German Müller bodice sloper and the Japanese Munhwa bodice sloper. Based on National Standards Position Survey data, the main dimension average for women in their 20s was set. The grading increments was set at the grading deviation application area in bodyboard and sleeve. Thereafter grading was done and the suitability of the graded pattern was checked.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.20 no.3
• /
• pp.403-415
• /
• 2012

This study did a comparative analysis on the patterns of several male bodice slopers, followed by evaluating the appearance through a virtual garment simulation, which used a three-dimensional virtual garment system. Through this process, this study attempted to comparatively analyze the suitability of the garment or each sloper according to body parts. The analysis of the drawing formulas of bodices slopers had the following results. With a standard chest size, all six slopers had a 1:4 ratio for a front and back chest size; 1:5 or 1:6 for a front and back breast size 1:5 or 1:4 for a neck base circumference; and 1:20 or 1:12 for the chest size. When comparing the anthropometric figures and the actual measurements of each body part for the bodice slopers, the actual measurements secured extra amounts in the drawing process. The evaluation results for appearance of the six men's bodice slopers showed that the slopers used by companies (E and F) had top scores followed by the slopers made for (C and D), while the sloper for education (A) received the lowest scores. Regarding the results of the variance analysis verifying the significant difference between the slopers, twenty-five items had significant differences with the exception of four items on the front side and one item on the backside.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.48 no.3
• /
• pp.563-575
• /
• 2024

This study analyzed 2D bodice sloper changes according to combinations of the lateral neck and shoulder points of a 3D mannequin's shoulder lines. The relationship between the 3D shape and 2D pattern was analyzed. The shoulder line was set to a default of 1cm in front of or behind the lateral neck point, 1cm in front or behind the lateral shoulder point and 1cm vertically above the lateral neck or shoulder point. When the lateral neck point was moved backward, the front neck depth, front and back shoulder height, and shoulder length in the 3D shape increased, whereas the back neck's depth and width decreased. In the 2D pattern, the back shoulder height decreased. As the lateral shoulder point moved backward, all items of the 3D shape showed little change. However, the front shoulder height for the 2D pattern decreased. Consequently, the back shoulder height increased, and the lateral neck point was raised vertically by 1cm. Meanwhile, only the back neck depth and shoulder length decreased while all other items increased; however, in the 2D pattern, the front neck width and shoulder line showed no notable change. The shoulder point was raised vertically by 1cm, and the front and back shoulder heights of the 3D shape and 2D pattern were decreased.

• Human Ecology Research
• /
• v.54 no.4
• /
• pp.427-440
• /
• 2016

This study uses comparison tests of bodice basic patterns to research improvements in wearing evaluation methods based on differences in bodice basic patterns and body size. As study methods, we calculated body sizes for six types by selecting four types of bodice basic pattern and utilized bodice basic pattern size measurement tools. The study result are as follows. First, as the result of analyzing bodice basic patterns per each part and body size difference by bodice basic pattern size measurement tool, shoulder angle cover rate was J&K type 57.57%~68.41%, N type 53.13%~65.57%, L type 51.87%~63.73%, and H type 59.03%~68.20%. In the item of neck base circumference, it was J&K type 6.4~-16 mm, N type 10.7~-31.9 mm, L type -5.2~-13.4 mm, and H type -6.2~-15.4 mm. In the item of armscye circumference, it was J&K type -18.9~-59.4 mm, N type -15.2~-51.3 mm, L type -38.9~-52.7 mm, and H type -17~-42.2 mm. In the item of biacromion length, it was J&K type 23.2~-4.7 mm, N type 18.4~-10.4 mm, and H type 3.5~-5.7 mm. In the item of interscye back, it was J&K type and N type 17.6~-13.6 mm, L type 11.9~-13.6 mm, and H type 3.2~-11.8 mm. The item of interscye front was found in the sequences of study type and L type. Second, the Kruskal-Wallis test result (according to bodice basic pattern) indicated meaningful differences in items of shoulder angle cover rate, neck point to breast point, bust point-bust point, biacromion length and armscye circumference and H type had an overall higher rank.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.20 no.5
• /
• pp.45-59
• /
• 2016

This research is a study to develop basic block patterns for adult males. The subjects were 20 men in their 20s, and we tested 6 basic bodice blocks that are used in academia and industry. First, a comparative analysis of the patterns of the bodice blocks was conducted and the test garments were made, and then their appearances were evaluated during wearing tests. Based on the test results, we intended to select a bodice block that is a good fit when it is put on and to use it as basic data in order to design a man's bodice block for the future. The research results are as follows: First, a comparison of the 6 bodice block drafts showed that they used differently calculated ease allowances at chest circumference and width, waist circumference, shoulder length, etc. for which the upper chest circumference is used as a reference. Second, when the appearances of the test garments were tested, the average scores were high in the order of B> H> P> K> M> L. Pattern B was superior in the areas of the neck circumference and shape, ease allowance at the back of the neck, circumference of the front of the neck, location of side width, ease allowance at sides, armhole width and depth. But in the other test items, there were cases where other patterns were superior.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.5
• /
• pp.552-561
• /
• 2006

This study was conducted to suggest an appropriate jacket bodice pattern for elderly women by comparing the developed pattern with existing ready-made jacket pattern. The developed jacket bodice pattern was produced from the basic sloper in which elderly women's somatotype was fully reflected, by using the newly developed 3D pattern design system. Subjects were 6 elderly women aged from 60 to 69 who have average somatotype in their age group. This study carried out pattern analysis and self-sensory test with three ready-made jackets(national brands) and suggested a developed jacket pattern based on the results. According to the self sensory test results of ready-made jacket, wearing fitness among brands was significantly different even though those brands were same B91 size. The results of ready-made jackets' pattern analysis, size differences among patterns have influenced wearing fitness. The basic numerical formula for the jacket pattern considered elderly women's somatotype were as follows; $B/4+2{\pm}0.2{\sim}0.5$(difference of front and back), $W/4+2{\pm}0.2{\sim}0.5$(difference of front and back), H/4+2~7(ease amount), armhole depth B/4, chest width B/6+1, back width B/6+3 and back neck width B/12+0.5. According to the results of the developed jacket's appearance evaluation, it earned higher scores in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the developed jacket is appropriate for the elderly women. Also, in the evaluation on space length, the developed jacket pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length in all around of measurement parts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.8
• /
• pp.1181-1189
• /
• 2009

This research analyzes the relationship between the height of the sleeve cap and the mobility of arm movement. Ten Korean women participated as subjects. For test clothes, the AH/4+3, AH/4+1, and AH/4-1 height of the sleeve cap were varied. The sleeve circumference was adjusted according to the variation of the height of the sleeve cap. To analyze test clothing objectively, the range-of-motion of two selected movements (Arm Adduction/Abduction and Arm Flexion/Extension) was measured by Leighton flexometer and goniometer. Also, a wearer acceptability rating was examined for acceptance by the subject. Anova and Duncan's multiple range tests are used for statistical analysis. According to the results, the mobility of test clothing 2 and 3 improved 14.9% and 27.7% in Arm Adduction/Abduction, and 12.7% and 31.9% in Arm Flexion/Extension compared to the test clothing 1.